Which Version of the Original Xbox Is the Best? 1.0, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5 or 1.6?

[HDShadow 80]

I'd argue for a v1.2/v1.3 - younger than v1.0/v1.1 but still with the Conexant video chip, TSOP-able and often fitted with the better Samsung 605B DVD drive.

The younger and less used the better, particularly in relation to capacitors but the v1.6 lets itself down with Xcalibur video chip problem, less easy to chip and no TSOP. The v1.4 I'd go for if it wasn't for the fact the Focus video chip in mine clearly needs very different TV picture settings from any of the other Xboxes I've owned. Could be a one off thing but when that's all you have to judge it by you have to go with that. 

Now I'd go with any Xbox version with a well treated Hitachi DVD drive. That's simply because the DVD drive is the Xbox hardware weak point and the Hitachi, if not perfect, is proving to be the most mechanically reliable of the lot. 

[xboxdanny 0]

Apparently the Focus and Conexant chips have the Cr and Cb subsampled to half in the horizontal direction, so I guess the 1.6/1.6b is best if you're not doing a HDMI mod.

If you are doing a HDMI mod, then 1.0 with 128MB RAM with 1MB BIOS is awesome.

[XJR9000 0]

I personally like the 1.0 It has a fan on the heatsink and the TSOP is 1024kb.  I have done the 128mb mod on it with much success.

[neakmenter 0]

Regarding Dave's earlier commend regarding 1.6 boards, that "ALL capacitors fail" at some point.

Yeah - I do get that. Electronics age. Capacitors have a lifespan.

But I've got some amplifiers, computers, and other electronics from the 60s, 70s and 80s that have no failed capacitors (as yet) I haven't taken them out and tested, but these simpler boards seem happy enough that they're close enough to spec to still work well.

I think our issue might be Capacitor plague - Wikipedia - last couple of paragraphs are particularly interesting!

As it was exceptionally poor manufacturing and bad copies of chemistry in many fabs, and the problem seems to have been solved since 2008, maybe once we re-cap our xboxs, they'll last for some 40 years or more...? Here's hoping! It is probable though that all revisions of the OGXbox suffer some dodgy caps just due to the timeline.  Y'know. It does give me hope that maybe a modern replacement supercap as 1.1-1.4 clockcap wouldn't be such a corrosion timebomb... maybe?

Edited March 28 by neakmenter

[big F 38]

The Commodore Amiga also sufferers with dodgy caps. Although 90% of it is with the later models namely the A600,  A1200  and A4000. All of which use the same crappy bean can style surface-mount caps. They like the clock caps leak and destroy the board.   The earlier Amigas only have issues with the rechargeable batteries used in the clock circuit, as they all used conventional boards with no surface mount parts.

That said some seem to benefit with  a change of caps to newer ones, presumably new high quality caps are tighter on the tolerances and added to the old caps maybe slipping in capacity or voltage makes a difference.

 

All my collection of OGs have where applicable had the cap removed because they mostly were showing signs of leaking or had.

 Except one, that for the last Ten years has been stored in the loft, which cycles between barmy hot in the summer and damp/freezing in the winter. 
The cap on it as of today is mot leaking. I had simply forgotten about that Xbox needing to be looked at.

Go figure on that.

[SS_Dave 686]

The capacitor leakage is not just games consoles and computers, This is a mid to late 2000s BMW radio and the customers complaint was no front left audio.

 

And this is not the 1st time I have seen this in a car audio unit.

 

We can only hope the capacitors that are been used now will last longer or at least not leak a corrosive liquid.

 

 

Cheers

SS Dave

Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

 

[big F 38]

That may be why mine stopped working then.

 

The 90’s-2000’s really fuelled the start of our throw away society.