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  1. Run Emustation from E and have the emulators, media and roms folder on a larger partition. don’t run it from F and defo not G as the seek times are horrendous the more you fill those partitions.
    5 points
  2. I try to stay in the background because the site is really about you all and I would never want to have much if any focus on me. With that said... I have always loved Xbox modding. I was really into it back in 2002-2004. I learned all I could and modded lots of Xboxs back then. I changed careers in 2014 and that took me to a new state and somehow all of that change rekindled my love for Xbox. I looked around for people who were still into it and they were scattered everywhere. Xbox-scene was dying/dead. I created the FB group and it took off relatively quickly. I did a lot of things wrong there by choosing the wrong admins and commenting on topics unrelated to Xbox.... moderating in a way that was frankly unprofessional. (I still do from time to time if I'm in a weird mood.) Once the FB group membership got around 10k, we started having content just disappear from the FB group. I became aware that the group could quite literally vanish in the blink of an eye. My skillset is in the world of IT, so spinning up a web server was really no trouble. So I fired up a VM on my server at home, set it up and allowed it through my firewall and announced the site. Once the site grew, I went ahead and moved it to a VPS cloud host so it doesn't depend on my home's power and internet reliability. Hopefully I covered whatever you were looking for. If not let me know and I'll answer almost anything.
    5 points
  3. Jig idea: generic stencil for 0.76mm balls at 1.27mm pitch, with unused pads masked off using kapton tape. Since the interposer boards are 1.6mm tick, I surrounded it with PCBs of identical thickness, secured onto an ABS sheet with (thin) double-sided tape. The interposer squeezes firmly in between the surrounding boards. A few overlaying strips of kapton briefly elevate the stencil. This gives the stencil some vertical clearance for the balls to fall through, and ensures the flux on the board doesn't touch the stencil. Regardless, I highly recommend cleaning off the stencil after every board for the best results. If balls don't fall through on the next one, you should've cleaned it. After pouring on the balls, I use a very soft ESD brush to spread the balls. They balls are not encaged so I used a very light touch, or else I'd be finding solder balls all over the place for months. With the balls placed, lift the stencil and manually repair any imperfections. You can see the bottom-left ball didn't make it. After having worked on some 0.2mm BGA stuff recently (not fun), manually placing 0.76mm balls is no longer any issue, even for pads that have 8 surrounding ones. On to the hotplate for attaching them. I highly prefer IR over hot air because the balls don't move. With hot air, if you have just the tiniest bit of excess flux, balls start drifting freely. Repeat... and after about 2 hours the work came to an end. Surely there's better ways to spend your Saturday but ultimately, it's good to have it done. Not perfect, but with a small (say airbrush) compressor and simple paste dispenser you can place drips very quickly, with reasonable accuracy, and reasonably similar amounts of paste. So I'd say it's fine.
    4 points
  4. I just posted the question asking the developer of the Titan patches for M8plus if a currently formatted hard drive will need to be reformatted or is Titan able to work with extended partitions already present on the hard drive. Awaiting their answer.
    3 points
  5. If that's the case then its not really a huge selling point for the bios. The attach.xbe method has been around for ages, nothing new. I guess the real "Big" selling point for Cerbios is the LBA48 improvements for the 3tb+ support. Also maybe the "Dual HDD" mode I suppose. If they can add UDMA5 to those and also Xbox HDMI+ patches then I can see this becoming the default bios for a lot of peeps including myself. I certainly wont be replacing my X3's bios with Cerbios then and I'll be doing a fresh build sometime in the future on a fresh Xbox once Cerbios leaves Beta status.
    3 points
  6. Last week I purchased a nice OG to revisit a console that I'd had so much fun with 2 decades ago and to do some modding on. I set out to finally recreate one of those Friendtech/trusty/n64freak consoles that I'd wanted to do for a long time, but unfortunately never followed up with. This was made infinitely simpler after n64freak opened up sales of his bare interposer boards, so now the daunting amount of work for engineering these boards myself from the Friendtech patent file and datasheets can be skipped. I sourced the components for the clock switching circuit on the interposer, which totaled an astonishing €5 from Digikey, while I needed to spend €50 to qualify for free shipping. This quickly spiraled out of control, I ordered everything x10... There's another 10 CPUs coming my way and there's a 10-high stack of never-been-opened xboxes behind me already. While awaiting components to arrive, I've been reading about this upgrade and this left me the impression that these CPU-upgraded consoles at some point were highly sought after. I'd like to gauge current interest and am trying to get global idea of what these units should yield when sold. I was thinking of offering the following for €275: - Clean motherboard with CPU upgraded to a 1.4GHz/512kB cache Tualatin using n64freak's interposer - RAM upgraded to 128MB by installing the 4 additional chips - OpenXenium modchip installed (or only with a flashed BIOS for some discount) - no PSU, HDD, DVD, case since cost of shipping twice easily exceeds sourcing an xbox locally for most locations I still have to think about a proper reliable solution for the heatsink if these boards are to be shipped. Any thoughts?
    3 points
  7. 3 points
  8. As I laid down in bed I couldn't contain my curiosity since I was still so perplexed that the 3 attempts after my initial successful one failed. I needed to check. The first board I used was a 1.4, the others were 1.0. Could there be a big difference in alignment between them? The top of the board sits very close to an SMD cap. You judge! On a 1.4, it's close but it fits: On a 1.0, oops, that'll elevate the interposer and certainly not benefit the soldering quality: I'm fairly assured this caused the poor BGA alignment. And so we learn. More later this week.
    3 points
  9. Modding Xboxes back in 2005 actually taught me alot about how computers work, with how similar it was to a PC. I had great enthusiasm as well. It was a big part of my life. Thank you for creating this forum, which has become an impressive repository of information and a place where very knowledgeable people like Kaos and Dave can answer questions that nobody can. The original xbox will always have a place in my heart and Iˋm glad aplace like this exists to preserve that passion and information for all of us. I never want it to die. Thanks very much to you, Mr. Admin.
    3 points
  10. Thank you for being part. I'm not the important one. You all are. This site could be totally empty... yet here you are. So the thanks goes to all of you.
    3 points
  11. Oh no, another flasher! YES! I have resently read from the one or the other that it would be nice to have a option to just flash a bios wihtout the need to install any apps, dashboards or what ever. So I decided to make that DVD for the 2-3 ppl. out there. So this DVD provides XBlastOS and EvoX as flashing tool. Like the MC/USB installer I made, all bios files are already packed as bios.bin so you can flash any TSOP (Incl. Winbond) or ModChip with it right away. Other as the MC/USB flasher this DVD version provides more bios files you can flash. And ofc there is also a XBox 1.6/1.6b flasher on board. And no, if you didn't have already a modded XBox you need to use the MC/USB TSOP flasher (Or you soft mod). How ever. On the main screen you simply select what you like to do: Flash XBox 1.0-1.4 Without Dashboard Install. Flash XBox 1.0-1.4 With Dashboard Install. Flash XBox 1.6-1.6b Without Dashboard Install. Flash XBox 1.6-1.6b With Dashboard Install. So you could install one (1) dashboard along if you like (Ava, EvoX, UiX Lite, UX, X4X, X4G or XES). If not just select the "Without" option and the Flash Menu will load up right away without installing anything. Btw. this installer will install nothing if you don't wish (The only thing you could install is a Dash anyway). Not even XBlastOS or EvoX which both run of the DVD. So you will just leave with a Bios folder on C:\ which contains the bios you have flashed. And if need you have some basic tools in the Main Menu under Miscellaneous. You also will find the option to update the MS Dashboard to the lates version (5960.01) if needed in that menu along with some other options. So you see, the main goal here was basicly bios flashing. No Apps, No Dah (If you don't want) and No Crap will left behind. And ofc this installer didn't touch any byte of your maybe already installed Apps/Dashes or what ever like some others do. Finaly this installer provides all the latest bioses like Cerbios, MakeMHz, EvoX TITAN etc.. Finaly one last word. This DVD didn't use a BFM on boot so it's pretty fast. And all bios MD5 check sums I know have been added to the EvoX flasher and to the Bios Checker App (Oh Dave will throw eggs at me for this). HOW EVER..... Hope you guys have a use for it. PEACE! Downloads : 1fichier : https://1fichier.com/dir/wVNkbBai Mega : https://mega.nz/folder/UN1DzDAL#CuuhnuVesotAbaZVmIZzeg
    2 points
  12. So on OGXBox.com? https://1fichier.com/?xgqrt2hcjja48cd4mn7s https://mega.nz/file/8FVGzazJ#-JssV04G-7qzQeicz5k9DqAcS0QfVuCV2-BA8OhRVcI I want a BFM version of is so badly. Anyone could ask the coder if that will be possible and if they plan to release one?
    2 points
  13. Download for the new 2.0.2 : https://1fichier.com/?4um78xwo4zptr0piyq5z https://mega.nz/file/hJ0xxLBa#Z9vZBMn_oDRCceWU90JanYUAmmspJZ469SaZUIsK5d4
    2 points
  14. v2.02 in the usual places I assume
    2 points
  15. For those interested in udma5 support
    2 points
  16. Dude, thatˋs heartbreaking. I hate when stuff like this happens. My heart goes out to you.
    2 points
  17. Hey guys, I've got a 1.2 that I spent the weekend revitalizing with all new fresh capacitors and upgrading the RAM to 128mb. Everything went well. I had Xblast reading all 128mb, and everything was working a treat. That is until I went to pull it apart for final disassembly to clean the case and everything up before putting all back together for the last time. I first removed the SATA/IDE adapter from the HDD, leaving the molex connector in place and holding it by the cables and moved the HDD tray out of the way. It was then, that I somehow managed to let the SATA/IDE adapter dangle enough for it to brush the PSU right along side the big 470uF 250v capacitor without realizing it. And in my excited haste, I had not yet disconnected the power cord from the Xbox... As soon as I saw the bright flash and pop that was the SATA adapter getting completely obliterated, my heart immediately sank. The adapter, of course, is thoroughly destroyed. The logic IC and one of the voltage regulators quite literally exploded. At that point, I knew I'd be extremely lucky if it was the only casualty. On the Xbox itself, it blew the T3.15A on the PSU. I had some spare 3 amp glass slow-blow fuses, so I rigged one up until I get the proper cylindrical fuse to replace it later this week. Surprisingly enough, the PSU still works fine, albeit with a slight discolored battle scar on side of the big capacitor... However the motherboard is a different story. It now 3 boot/FRAGs both with or without the X2.3b lite I've had installed for years present. Thinking I had fried it, not feeling too optimistic about fixing it, I harvested the newly installed RAM, and original RAM but subsequently reinstalled the original, after changing my mind on giving up so quickly. Anyway, I've tried all the troubleshooting methods I could with what tools I have at my disposal, which is not much. All the PSU voltages are good. I've swapped PSUs with another, just in case. One observation I made is that the MCPX X3 gets really hot very quickly, so I'm sort of thinking it's shorted and therefore also toast, and that's what's causing it to FRAG. In any case, I figured, maybe I'd share my story for your entertainment, and maybe even see if any of you had any suggestions on what else I might try to test before I go on the hunt for a replacement board and continue scavenging useful parts from this one.
    2 points
  18. I think I found the answer. You probably have an EEPROM password. Use this info to clear it and you should be good. Man. Somebody had to have some pretty extreme-ass circumstances to have to password protect the EEPROM on their fucking Xbox modchip. Seems like all those password features did was give people headaches 15 years later.
    2 points
  19. God I want this, but I just canˋt afford 475 right now. FUCK.
    2 points
  20. Update: @KaosEngineerusing the copy /b crcwell.bin+crcwell.bin+crcwell.bin+crcwell.bin crcwell1MB.bin you suggested has worked. I wrote the new 1MB bios to the SST49LF080A and the xbox booted XBlast OS. I'm also able to program the SST49LF002A with any 256kb bios and boot this successfully. This NANO USB Programmer is really handy thing and nice to have. @Donnie-Burgeryou should give it a try. NANO USB Programmer for PC M/B BIOS repairing with Economic shipping.
    2 points
  21. I think you picked the wrong forum. Lol.
    2 points
  22. Thanks, if anyone has this problem mine turned out to be a bad MOSFET. New mosfet good as new
    2 points
  23. Depends which BIOS flashing software was used to flash the v1.1's TSOP. Not all of the flashing software fills the flash memory chip. Some write the one copy of the dot bin file leaving the rest of the flash chip empty. GentooX Loader is one that does not write multiple copies of the BIOS to fill the flash. If that tool was used, then the 1MB TSOP now contains: 256KB CerBIOS 256KB Empty (0xFF filled) 256KB Empty (0xFF filled) 256KB Empty (0xFF filled) Instead of 256KB CerBIOS 256KB CerBIOS 256KB CerBIOS 256KB CerBIOS You should be able to solder two wires to force access to the first 256KB BIOS. Like used to fix a COMA v1.0 or v1.1 console. Xbox Coma Console (archive.org)
    2 points
  24. Lol x1,000. I was waiting for an interesting back and forth diagnostic process with Kaos and the problem just fixed itself.
    2 points
  25. It's a 1-line patch in the kernel. Very simple. There's been some issues with it reported in the Titan repo though, so maybe the Cerbios team is hesitant to add it.
    2 points
  26. I suggest these, EEU-FS0J332B Panasonic Electronic Components | Capacitors | DigiKey, with a 10,000 Hour lifetime rating instead of 4000 hours. And, they are less expensive. I prefer the EEU-FR0J332LB with a lower ESR (impedance) and higher ripple current rating; however, they have 0 in stock.
    2 points
  27. Time for a minor update. Not a very happy one just yet but new ideas for improvement did spring to mind, so I'll use this post to share some ideas I had. First, I believe @Bowlsnapperhad some concerns about aligning the interposer to the board "blindly". There's no need to go in blind, in fact, we can make it foolproof. I measured the silk screen print accuracy on the adapter and on the motherboard with a digital caliper. There's only about 0.1mm difference in outline width/height between the interposer and console boards. They're also accurately spaced around the solder pads, meaning this outline actually makes for a pretty decent calibration opportunity. What you can do it apply some kapton tape along the silkscreen outline on both the board and the interposer. Then, just make sure the tape aligns, and you're guaranteed a very reasonable alignment. And then you just overlay the crosses: When soldered down, it's probably still quite possible to remove the tape by pulling it down and wiggling it out. Or you can just cut it near the sides, no big deal either way. I'll use this method to verify my split vision system's accuracy on my next attempt. Since I'm not picking up the interposer in dead center, I'm no longer convinced the placement is as accurate as the visual indicates. This will either confirm my suspicions or rest my mind.
    2 points
  28. I'd recommend the ACHI for sure. Aligning the interposer isn't too hard. The top end of the board nearly touches a capacitor on the top. For the horizontal alignment, just turn the interposer over, align the balls by eye and rotate the board around while keeping the same lateral position, then shove it up to that capacitor. The good thing about BGAs is that you're still fine even if you're just under half a pitch off. That's 0.6mm of margin! While everything up until now has been smooth sailing, I've ran into the first snags today. An eBay package with Tualatins arrived, and even though I ordered only 2 from the seller, I actually received 3. Sadly, one doesn't work. Not a loss overall, but still, this kinda indicates there's bad CPUs out there. I'm now glad that I purchased a socket 370 motherboard solely for testing. The other problem I ran into today manifested on two boards: the interposer tilted when soldering it down. I didn't initially realize this on the first board and have already soldered on the CPU there, but obviously the system FRAGs. Inspecting very closely under the microscope reveals that only the very corner ball is floating over the motherboard. The balls just 1 pad closer to the center have soldered but they are obviously not ideally squashed. Reason for this must be that the weight of the interposer board rests only on the BGA balls, but the board protrudes over the BGA area. I'll have to remove the CPU and reball this one unfortunately. I set this board aside before making this realization, and soldered a 2nd interposer on another motherboard. Close inspection of that one showed the clearance between interposer and xbox wasn't perfectly even, and pressing in the corners flexes the board slightly. Will have to reball this one as well, but this gave me an idea for a fix. The 0.76mm balls when soldered down are roughly as thick as 0603 passives. The board is already resting on a set of 4x 10k 0603s on one side, so we can use such 0603's to support the board in the far corners. I soldered 2 resistors with one end to via's near the corners so they won't slip away, but they serve no electrical function of course. I then continued to attach another interposer to this 3rd board and it came out perfectly. There's zero flex, the balls are squashed very nicely, and the clearance is perfectly even around all edges. I'm confident that the issue's found and remedied, and I'll verify that tomorrow if my wife lets me on Mother's Day
    2 points
  29. I used that creaky, old FTP Client app years ago with its awful GUI, before I was, thankfully, made aware of the fact the UnleashX File Explorer has its own built in FTP client. There should be no problem installing an UnleashX dash as an app whatever your main dash or BIOS. I'd concentrate on getting that working rather than messing around with that dinosaur app.
    2 points
  30. Picked up one defective xbox for recapping but noticed it still did not turn on even with fresh caps. The clock cap had leaked and taken along some traces with it. Luckily superficial, so easy to spot and fix: 1) Assessment of the damage. Not too bad. 2) Scraping away all the crap to expose bare copper; treat it like a contaminant and get some clean margins. 3) Tin the exposed copper to prevent oxidization. Very minor trace interruptions can be bridged by dragging solder over them. 4) The larger interruptions require being bridged with some wire. I found AWG40 to match the existing trace width. 5) For rigidity and insulation, applied some conformal coating. 6) Result after curing. Now she powers up nicely Next!
    2 points
  31. I don't think you realize exactly what it is your chasing there my friend..... Good luck in the hunt for what is probably the RAREST of Team Executer mods. I haven't seen a blue front panel for sale on its own or as a complete TX modded blue xbox for years. If one comes up it WONT be cheap and I will probably be bidding against you. I would expect the front panel alone to sell for £250+ I own a clear version of this mod with all the trimmings, had it since the mid 00's, did also have the black version but sold it a couple of summers back. That sold for just under £600 back then.
    2 points
  32. Had less time than anticipated tonight, but I did manage to pickup the replacement electrolytic caps from Farnell at the pickup point. All the 1.6's are recapped, which as suspected resurrected the 2 dead ones as well. So, these have clean shells, boards + PSU's gone through ultrasonic cleaning, recapped, fresh thermal paste, I restored the LPC with a QSB (but did not install any modchip). I'm ready to part with them, and I'll be hunting to find non-1.6's to replace them in the coming days. Tomorrow I hope to get the remaining ones recapped and TSOP'd, plus maybe RAM upgrade on one or two of them. It's about a 50/50 chance I'll have 2 more Tualatins on Saturday, so fingers crossed we may get to complete two boxes entirely. I've dumped some pictures here for now on imgur: https://imgur.com/a/grMufPW. The forum itself feels very restrictive in regards to maximum and combined filesizes.
    2 points
  33. Alternatives: For U1 (NC7WZ07P6X) --> https://www.digikey.nl/nl/products/detail/texas-instruments/SN74AHC1G32TDBVRQ1/696627 For U2 (NC7SZ32M5X) --> https://www.digikey.nl/nl/products/detail/nexperia-usa-inc/74AUP2G3407GWH/4743668 For OSC1 (OSC SG3030B) --> https://www.digikey.nl/nl/products/detail/cts-frequency-controls/CB3LV-3I-32M768000/663659
    2 points
  34. I'm in The Netherlands
    2 points
  35. 2 points
  36. And again, here are the download links for v2.01 https://1fichier.com/?riakentdy1npo2t0zhnw https://mega.nz/file/cFtByYiJ#Mq7ON3PzniJ3NRADdtfcMCWiQxaMQ233q0Kd_ChWLIo
    2 points
  37. This all I have on the X3 https://www.dropbox.com/s/y88qk93ix285uby/Xecuter 3CE Modchip.rar?dl=0 Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.
    2 points
  38. These are crap! Not worth bothering with and i doubt very much that the Cerbios team will ever add any kind of support for it. Fingers crossed that Cerbios will be the bios to beat them all, all the latest and greatest features in one place. I hope they will add the MakeMhz patches and all the goodies from the Titan patches too! EDIT: Little sidenote for those of you that didnt already know it. Xboxs have been able to play iso files for ages already, those handful of games that wont play when extracted have played fine as an iso. Cerbios just makes it easier as you dont need to use an attach.xbe anymore. I will probably convert my full xbox set back to iso once i have a box setup with Cerbios and a huuuuuuuge HDD. Iso files are better for the cluster sizes. Extracted games on a 512k cluster (which i believe is needed for 8tb support) will be a huge waste of space as all those 100's of tiny few kb files will all take 512k each!!!
    1 point
  39. A basic black one sold on eBay in March for $370 with free shipping.
    1 point
  40. Yes, that's the point. But no one is telling me how much it's worth
    1 point
  41. 1 point
  42. XblastOS XBE edition will flash multiple copies of a smaller than TSOP-sized dot bin file to fill it.
    1 point
  43. It's time to flash the X3 BIOS Build 3294 to the modchip using FlashBIOS's network flash option.
    1 point
  44. Hey sorry to bump this for an error but I was trying to perform the steps and got stuck. I think it might be that I don’t have enough free space to Unrar but I don’t think I can free up more c space - any tips?
    1 point
  45. Tomorrow I'll add some pictures. I've prepared a jig for reballing the 9 interposers I still have, since placing the balls by hand just once, however humbling the experience may be, just isn't for me. For that I used a regular stencil with the unused pads masked using kapton tape. Pics will clarify. I'll also add some info for the paste dispenser that I used, although I prefer having a stencil made instead.
    1 point
  46. I reformatted the original post to make the text a smaller / normal size. P.S. I'm not sure how to remove the grey/light blue box that appears at the top of the original post.
    1 point
  47. Thank you for all of your time and effort.
    1 point
  48. Hey! saw this pop up in my feed: Looks like people are starting to use the Invidious api, would love to see this in xbmc! Also @antonic901 you might want to shoot your app to Michael MJD, not sure if he would cover it or not but, if he did it could get some more eyes on your awesome work!
    1 point
  49. To me it's only worth $50. To other's maybe much more.
    1 point

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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