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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/05/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    As the title suggests, this is a collection of mods for the Xbox version of GTA: Vice City. The aim of this mod was to fix a couple of bugs, to make what I feel are improvements to the game's overall presentation, and to provide a fresh, new visual experience for the same Vice City you know and love, while still maintaining what made the atmopshere and feel of the 1980s American beach city setting so enjoyable. Retaining immersion was also important. If it couldn't have existed in 1986, you won't find it here. Performance was also a key focus. While the Xbox version of Vice City is capable of displaying larger textures just fine, the texture work here was (mostly with very few exceptions) kept at the same resolution with the same compression method as the original textures, because you will run into performance issues, namely regarding pop-in, textures failing to load properly, and frame rate hiccups if you do decide to go with larger textures. In my testing, this wasn't something immediately noticeable in the early stages of the game. It only really becomes an issue when you're driving back and forth between the two islands, particularly late game when you own a lot of properties. This modification performs just as well as the original release from beginning to end. It is recommended that you play this mod in WIDESCREEN with TRAILS OFF. New Roads: Original textures replaced with textures made from real images of Miami roads. This solves the issue of the blurry roads in the original release and generally looks better all around. Sidewalks replaced as well. New particle effects: Particle effects replaced with more realistic representations. GTA III's Liberty City holdover leaves that once scattered the ground have been replaced with palm leaves, much like they appear in the PS2 version. This one small change in particular has a surprisingly large effect on the atmosphere of the world. New Duds: New Miami Vice inspired suits for Tommy and Lance. Most outfits have been changed. From pallette swaps to complete replacements, the new outfits fit the game's world while simultaneously referencing various films, TV shows, and video games along the way. Each outfit functions in cutscenes as well. New timecycle: More colorful days and darker nights. Nights actually feel like night time now. Make the neon of Vice City shine brighter than ever against these blackened night skies, and enjoy beautiful sunsets and sunrises. Fits the beach weather perfectly and looks great with the Xbox version's unique lighting system. New foliage: Fuller and more colorful foliage textures make Vice City come alive. The Xbox version has always had inferior foliage to the PS2 version, this fixes that issue. Bug fixes: PS2 animations, including idle animations missing from the Xbox release, have been restored. Tommy now gives an "up yours" gesture with his arms instead of flipping a nonexistent finger (another GTA III holdover) when standing in front of traffic. A bug preventing the acquisition of the Havana outfit after completing certain missions has been fixed, it is always accessible after having been unlocked now. The brass knuckles have been resized to not look so outlandishly large. Aiming sites for weapons like assault and sniper rifles have been adjusted to display correctly in widescreen mode. This means they display incorrectly in 4:3 mode, however. New animations: A few improved animation replacements for Tommy. He runs with single handed and two handed weapons in a more believable way now. Walking, idles, sprinting, and just about everything else has been kept vanilla for the sake of familiar game feel. Tommy still sprints as fast as he always has - something that's typically changed for the worse with animation mods. Female character models no longer dislocate their hips as they walk. Peds overall have new animation. They all walk a little slower now than before, but their animations look less rubbery. New pedestrians: About 85% of peds replaced with their VCS counterparts. These pedestrians are higher quality than the ones found in the original release of Vice City. Better quality texture work, more colorful outfits, and more diverse models. New surprises: I've thrown in a number of retextured areas and objects throughout the game. From small world objects to interiors, there's a number of new things to see for returning veterans. New weapon: The Ruger has been replaced with an AK-47. New HUD: The radar ring has been replaced with a new, original ring. Icons on the main HUD, map icons, and weapon icons have been replaced with their 10th Anniversary counterparts. The pause screen map has been replaced with the 10th Anniversary map. New text: A few lines in the game's american.gxt file have been modified to reflect some of the changes this modification brings. Mostly in terms of outfit and weapon names. Download INSTALLATION: 1. Extract folders to any directory of your choosing 2. FTP all folders from the archive into your GTA: Vice City root folder on your Xbox, choose to overwrite files in the process. 3. IMPORTANT: Delete GTA_VC.CAP.Final file from your GTA: Vice City root folder if it exists 4. Clear your Xbox's cache and start the game 5. Have fun There shouldn't be any issues with running this mod on existing save files. Feel free to report any bugs you see. What I'd like to change in the future: Improve widescreen mode from the existing pan 'n scan implementation Fix the alpha render state for the target lock and sniper dot
  2. 4 points
    Not exactly. To get a working Xenium you need two things: XeniumOS (Located on the flash chip, traditionally not protected in anyway) VHDL code (Located on the CPLD, traditionally read protected to prevent clones) XeniumOS is easy to get. Either from a Flash dump of a genuine Xenium OR the Xodus released XeniumOS files. This is NOT on my repo. It is not my software to share so I dont share it on my repo (which focuses on my own work) The VHDL code is the tricky bit and is what my repo provides.
  3. 2 points
    I have seen where someone put a round sticker on that white plastic part to block the magnet inside it from grabbing onto the disc centering spindle so tight. Then it ejects just fine.
  4. 2 points
    Yes, it's a text file you can edit to make changes to the settings and menu configuration of UnleashX. Update: config.xml is UnleashX's equivalent to evoxdash's evox.ini. They are each dashboard's settings and menu configuration file.
  5. 2 points
    The other chips are very little, so i cannot take good pictures, but they say "CS3R". There's nothing more.
  6. 2 points
    I don't think @Ryzee119 provides a copy of the XeniumOS v2.3.1 (ISO RAR archive or HDD RAR archive) in the OpenXenium repo. However, I believe the XeniumOS recovery.bin file found in either of these archive files does not include all of the data stored inside the Xenium's 2MB flash memory chip. One is made to burn a disc for flashing the XeniumOS v2.3.1 to the modchip and the other from the hard drive or possibly FTP. I've not worked with the Xenium modchip too much. It just happened to be in a console I purchased from Goodwill.
  7. 2 points
    Damn, that console's completely disassembled right now. Just a box of parts except for the hard drive. what did I do with it... I need to find the hard drive for it and put it back together. I'll see if I can get that done later this evening. Dinner time now.
  8. 2 points
    One last update, but you can consider this one optional. It's an updated timecycle. I wanted to keep the bright blue midday of the original game with the gradient sunrises and sunsets, as well as the darker nights I originally released this mod with. This one also comes with updates to make rainy, cloudy and foggy weather a little more consistent with their corresponding times, and includes updates to atmospheric and object lighting. If you're happy with the current timecycle, feel free to skip this, but I encourage you to try both to see which you prefer as I think this one is a lot better in general and has a pretty heavy impact on the look of the game. The first link comes with every file you need for the mod, and the second is just the timecycle file itself. For the first link, follow installation instructions in the readme. They're the same as they always were. For the second link, just extract the .rar and drop the timecyc.dat file into your data folder to overwrite the old timecyc.dat. Download (full) Download (timecycle only)
  9. 1 point
    The .xbe that you creat using the shortcut tool, doesn't matter what the size of it is. It is literally just a forwarder. It loads, tells the xbox to load the .xbe in a different place instead. That's it.
  10. 1 point
    You can download the pre-built Xbox Softmodding Tool Extras Disc ISO file from Rocky5's google drive repository Xbox Softmod Kit Updates - Google Drive
  11. 1 point
    You have tried different component leads and updated the BIOS. What Dash are you using Is it rebooting when playing games and if so what game? Also when it plays up is it at the same time like after 5 minutes of use every time? When you say rebooting it starting with the flubber screen as if you had just turned the Xbox on? What make and model of hard drive and sata to ide adapter? Have you had a good look at the mother board capacitors for any sign of failing and inspect the solder connections for the AVIP connector for dry joints. SS Dave Those that can Hard-Mod. Those that can't Soft-Mod.
  12. 1 point
    Thank you for this. This is the solution to a problem I asked about (sadly recieved no response) about whether or not it was possible to launch the dash from another partition. I am using XBMC4Gamers, but the C partition is only a few hundred megabytes and I have already had a couple of issues with downloads not "having enough space" - they did not ask where I wanted to download them too. I had heard of something called multilaunch or multiboot or something, but that seems to have vanished off the face of the earth. At any rate, this solves the problem. Main dashboard now boots from e:\dashboard\ rather than c:\dashboard\
  13. 1 point
    Drive was unlocked! Back in business. Thanks guys.
  14. 1 point
    Method 1 to Run XBMC4Gamers as the Default Dashboard Download the ind-bios.cfg file from the root folder of the Xbox's C drive. Use a text editor to modify the file. Generally, the last 3 lines contain the entries for the BIOS's dashboard boot order: DASH1=\Device\Harddisk0\Partition2\evoxdash.xbe DASH2=\Device\Harddisk0\Partition1\Dash\UnleashX\unleashx.xbe DASH3=\Device\Harddisk0\Partition1\Dash\EvolutionX\evoxdash.xbe Modify the DASH1= line to contain the path to XBMC4Gamers' default.xbe file. The partition names equate the to following drive letters: Partition2 = C Partition1 = E Partition 6 = F Partition 7 = G So, if XBMC4Gamers' default.xbe file is located at: F:\XBMC4Gamers\default.xbe the DASH1= line needs to read DASH1=\Device\Harddisk0\Partition6\XBMC4Gamers\default.xbe Method 2 to Run XBMC4Gamers as the Default Dashboard Using an XBE Shortcut Instead of editing ind-bios.cfg, you can create a shortcut file to upload as evoxdash.xbe to the root of the C drive. No need to edit the ind-bios.cfg file. Download: XBE Shortcut Maker v2.0 Run the Windows executable (dot exe file) from the location you extracted it to on your PC's hard drive. Change the Target Path to where XBMC4Gamers' default.xbe file is stored on your Xbox's hard drive. Next, click on the large Create Shortcut Xbe... button and save the shortcut with the name evoxdash.xbe. Upload this new shortcut file, evoxdash.xbe, to the root of the Xbox's C drive. Reboot and XBMC4Gamers should now be your default dashboard.
  15. 1 point
    The BIOS that is preflashed to the Aladdin XT plus 2's should be updated. I don't think they come from China with the latest greatest version of M8plus for a 1.6 flashed to them. I'd run evoxdash and execute the backup menu option to save a copy of the current BIOS as bios.bin, eeprom.bin and a couple of text files with hard drive info. The current BIOS's MD5 hash value is found in evox.ini on the Current = 0x<MD5 Hash Hex Value> line. Compare the MD5 hash to the latest M8plus_16.bin version(s). MD5 Hashes (Hex) Evolution-X's distribution of M8plus_16.bin without the latest LBA48 patch applied or DVD check disabled - 58B8782501983725F984499620CA342B F and G LBA48 v3 patch and DVD check disabled evox.m8plus.v16.fc.137.bin from HeXEn 2018 installer disc - 5157A00E5D802E4EC3DEEF6F01FA19A1 F only LBA48 v3 patch and DVD check disabled evox.m8plus.v16.bin from HeXEn 2018 installer disc - 20870EA0714C9D3ABA8DF66B61A5CB12
  16. 1 point
    If you don't care about the contents, you could just zero the drive with a Linux live boot, using your PC. You don't even need to wait for dd to finish. Just let it run for a bit. dd if=/dev/zero of=/dev/(your hard drive)
  17. 1 point
    If the HDD has been locked with configmagic or unleashed, the master password could be "TEAMASSEMBLY". You may try XBOXHDM on your computer. Maybe SS_DAVE could help you, try to send him a PM If your are good using I2C reader, you may use such solution bye
  18. 1 point
    Press the back button for help and find the key that cycles through the various partition options. Return to the main screen. The button to do so is also shown on the help page. Cycle through the standard partitioning options until it shows F (partition 6) only taking the remainder of the available space on the hard drive. The cluster allocation again will be displayed in the bottom section of the screen. It should now read 64KB when partition 6 alone is used - greater than 512GBs in size. Press Start to perform the Write & Format option. reboot. Run XBPartitioner v1.3 again to make sure the re-partitioning worked. If not, redo it again, repeat to check. If all is well, no ER printed next to the partition's size, start FTPing content back to the drive. Good luck! If you are okay with splitting the space between F and G it smaller cluster allocations. A cluster is the smallest amount of space that can be allocated to a file. So, if the game/app has 100's to 1000's of files less than the cluster size each will take at a minimum one cluster be it 16K, 32K or 64K. The larger the cluster the more wasted space. 16KB cluster allocation supports partitions up to 256GBs in size 32KB cluster allocation => 512GBs 64KB cluster allocation => 1024GB or 1TB.
  19. 1 point
    It is a known issue, I think, that the drive belts eventually need replacing.
  20. 1 point
    Is the hard drive properly formatted? Run XBPartitioner v1.3 to verify that the extended partition(s) are using the proper cluster size allocation. If you see ER (error) printed to the left of an extended partition's size, it is NOT!
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    Yes it all boils down to who and how the mod was done.
  23. 1 point
    Which BIOS is installed? Not all support the feature: Eject Fix - the Xbox will never reset if you press eject-button The stock BIOS resets the console when you press the eject button. Feature List Table of all (well almost all) modified Retail Xbox BIOS releases:
  24. 1 point
    Ok partitioner 3 ok F and G ok.. TANKS TANKS TANKS... see you for next problem eheheh tancksss
  25. 1 point
    Hi all, Over the past few months I have painstakely reverse engineered the Team Xodus Xenium modchip's CPLD and written a complete open source replacement. I call it OpenXenium. https://github.com/Ryzee119/OpenXenium It has full support for XeniumOS and its features. Repo will list them. The Xenium CPLD is normally read protected to prevent clones. This project did not attempt to break that protection, instead I determined the behavioral properties of the CPLD to write my own VHDL source code. Check the repo out! there is a few xenium related tools that may even help people with a genuine Xenium! Hopefully this will help with LPC related CPLD projects people may have in mind too. Enjoy! Ryan
  26. 1 point
    Hi guys, new here. Not new to modding Xbox, however a lot has changed since I last did it many many years ago. Anyway, its all softmodded, everything is running well (a few things crash - for example I tried to run Doom X which was downloaded via the URLDownloader included in XBMC4Gamers - did not work). But I'm running into one restriction which is the partition size of C. Since XBMC4Gamers is my main dashboard, and thus resides in C:\Dashboard etc. If I try to download something, for example the Xbox Artwork - it just tells me there isn't enough space on the drive. I then came across a potential solution which was to have the dashboard on the E or any partition really, and something called "Multi Launcher" would point to it. However, I cannot find anything about it since. Website seems to have gone. No downloads seem to exist, and google just throws up results for other xbox consoles. So I suppose my question is ... IS there a way to have the dashboard on another partition, and have the main C:\Dashboard just point to its location ? Many thanks.
  27. 1 point
    Where did you upload them to on the Xbox: E:\Games, F:\Games, G:\Games in a subfolder for each game? Which dashboard are you using?
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
    Ok I solved it. I isntalled a new HDD with HeXen and runned chimp there without problems. The problem is on my old installation. Better I don't clone it^^
  30. 1 point
    XBMC4Gamers Synopsis Information This is a HDD ready XBMC4Gamers synopsis information setup. It was generated from a spreadsheet I made in which I collated as much information as I could find for the complete list of Xbox titles. The first building block of this spreadsheet was Cameron Brigmans list of Xbox games. The rest was taken from old defunct websites such as HDTVArcade using the wayback machine and the current Wikipedia pages. All sources linked and credited in the spreadsheet. You can filter this list by rating, genre etc. All US games ratings taken from Metacritic for consistency. It's a good tool for exploring the complete list of Xbox titles. As far as I can see it is the most up to date and complete list anywhere. This spreadsheet is very much a byproduct of creating synopsis information for Rockys XBMC4Gamers but it turned out to be a good tool for picking through titles and deciding what to fill a 2tb drive with so I have included it on the Github. Just download the 'Games.zip', extract it for the full list of HDD ready files and transfer as needed. These synopsis should be compatible with all XBMC. 3.5.3 or above once Rocky5's custom synopsis script and custom XBMC xbe are used. The US list is complete, the EU games all have some if not all information (except ESRB ratings) but the JAP games information is scant, description for most but the information is not as detailed for them. Huge thanks to Rocky5 for all his help and for creating the batch tool to automate separating out the individual default.xml files into folders from the initial excel to xml export. Any issues anyone finds I can fix and update accordingly when I have time. I hope this enhances your XBMC4Gamers setup.
  31. 1 point
    2 TB might be a touch much. I bought a 1 TB and have like 700 gigs free with my entire collection on there. Coin ops is just another 100 gig once I get it on there.
  32. 1 point
    JSRF!!!!!!!!!! Plus servbot is Roll tier.
  33. 1 point
    Very good work. It would be beautiful if someone can realise a raid for the original Xbox so someone can connect multiple drives and the console thinks there's only one.
  34. 1 point
    Have you tried an 80-wire 40-pin high-speed IDE cable or a different IDE-to-SATA adapter? I know when I installed a larger SATA drive its operation was not reliable using the stock 40-wire 40-pin IDE cable. Once I switched cables, it worked!
  35. 1 point
    @Erchitu, would you please take a picture of just the chips? I see 74AC1709 on one but I can't see what the others say. Thank you.
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
    I have Softmodded my Xbox, and upgraded to a SATA SSD. My Xbox works just fine. I used a IDE to SATA converter I found on Amazon.
  38. 1 point
    More than likely the cable is broken where the lead exit's the hand control. As you can see this one has been repaired at some time. SS Dave Those who can Hard-Mod, Those who can't Soft-Mod.
  39. 1 point
    Have you tried the controller on a different Xbox? SS Dave Those who can Hard_mod, Those who can't Soft-Mod.
  40. 1 point
    I can link you to a hdd image of dragon, you will need a 1tb or better a 2tb drive for it tho....
  41. 1 point
    donated to this scientist through PayPal, there is a donate button on his GitHub/OpenXenium page.
  42. 1 point
    What happened to R7D2 ? Rev 1.2 to 1.4 have different points to solder, but the process is nearly identical. This forum is an awesome resource!
  43. 1 point
    What's it doing or not doing that it needs to be reset? There's no known factory reset. Supposedly a proper button combo based on the serial number would clear games saves and cache drive partitions. The proper button combo obtained by calling Microsoft Support. What MS dashboard version is it running? (Settings -> System Info; at the end of the scroller look for the D value - dashboard version. There's also a K value for the kernel version the console is using. Neither value will be displayed if the BIOS/Kernel version is 3944 of v1.0 consoles.) What version Xbox is it? If the MS dashboard files are corrupt or hard drive is dead, you'll need to read the configuration EEPROM data so you can unlock the hard drive and rebuild the drive or if the HDD is dead prepare drive and LOCK it. XboxHDM23USB Beta 2 and the MS Dashboard 5960 file set can be used to do so. As distributed, XboxHDM23USB requires the hard drive to be connected to a PC with a compatible USB-to-HDD interface adapter.
  44. 1 point
    Indeed, but I dont own one and dont particularly want to buy one especially now that I have unlimited Xeniums
  45. 1 point
    Hi, Here are some packs for PSO that i came across i while ago, these are the online quests that are playable offline. Credit goes to Zorlon from EP who made and posted these originally. These packs are made up of Online Quests made available in Offline modeHDD install instructions Install Phantasy Star Online the usual way to your HDD (a second copy can be done just make sure you rename the game) Extract PSO Quest Pack #.7z with 7-zip Copy the extracted files and folder to the dvd folder of your Phantasy Star Online install and overwrite all via ftp DVD install instructions Extract an ISO of Phantasy Star Online [C-Xbox Tool can do this] Extract contents of PSO Quest Pack #.7z into the dvd folder of the extracted ISO, overwrite all files Create a new ISO [C-Xbox Tool can do this] Pack 0 contains the original Offline QuestsPack 1 contains the Online Quests:- The Construct (Just contains a few hacks) Item Maker (Another hack quest) 1-1 Planet Ragol 1-2 Torential Woods 1-3 Subterranean Den Mop-up Operation #1 Endless Nightmare #1 Central Dome Fire Swirl St. Valentine's Day Strange Sighting Rappy's Holiday Lost EGGBLASTER Wrath of Forest Lost HEAT SWORD 2-1 Infernal Cavern 2-2 Deep Within 2-3 The Mutation 2-4 Waterway Shadow Mop-up Operation #2 Endless Nightmare #2 Schthack's Request White Day Land of Lily Science Project Lost ICE SPINNER Pack 2 contains the Online Quests:- The Construct Item Maker Slime Anarchy The Missing Maracas (2 players minimum, I may edit to make 1 player possible) The Tinkerbell's Dog 3-1 The Facility 3-2 Machines Attack 3-3 Central Control Mop-up Operation #3 Endless Nightmare #3 MAXIMUM ATTACK 1 v2 Miyu's Nightmare Today's Rate Lost SOUL BLADE 4-1 The Lost Ruins 4-2 Buried Relics 4-3 Hero & Daughter 4-4 The Tomb Stirs 4-5 Dark Inheritance Mop-up Operation #4 Endless Nightmare #4 Christmas Fiasco 1 Towards The Future Tyrell's Last Hope Lost HAVOC VULCAN Pack 3 contains the Online Quests:- The Construct Item Maker 5-1 TestVR Temple 1 5-2 TestVR Temple 2 5-3 TestVR Temple 3 5-4 TestVR Temple 4 5-5 TestVR Temple 5 Gallon's Shop Lost SHOCK GUNGNIR 6-1 TestSpaceship 1 6-2 TestSpaceship 2 6-3 TestSpaceship 3 6-4 TestSpaceship 4 6-5 TestSpaceship 5 Reach for the dream Lost RIOT RAYGUN Blue Star Memories 7-1 From the Past 7-2 Seeking Clues 7-3 Silent Beach 7-4 Central Control 7-5 Isle of Mutants Pioneer Christmas Pioneer Halloween Festivity On the Beach Pack 4 contains the Online Quests:- The Construct Item Maker 8-1 Below the Waves 8-2 Desire's End 8-3 Purple Lamplight Beach Laughter Dream Messenger Lost DEVILS SCEPTER Maximum Attack 2 Phantasmal World #1 Phantasmal World #2 Phantasmal World #3 Phantasmal World #4 A New Hope Christmas Fiasco MAXIMUM ATTACK 2 V2 Rare Rappies Respective Tomorrow Ill Gill Ownage Sealed J-Sword Hunt Seat of the Heart The East Tower The West Tower Tower Mop Up Weather Effects Link : PSO Online Quests for Offline play + xbe Patch You will need to patch your game if not already done. Enjoy peeps :
  46. 1 point
    Here is a step by step tutorial for making a high quality component cable using an Xbox 360 component cable and a standard original Xbox Composite AV cable that pretty much everyone will have. I was looking for an original Xbox component cable recently and my options were a cheap Chinese non brand component cable, a monster cable or an official HD kit. The latter being crazy expensive nowadays. Since I have a background in electronics I thought why not make one from a 360 cable if a standard AV cable has all the pins present but not wired. I did a quick Google and I am not the first to have done this but thought I'd throw up this step by step for anyone who isn't afraid of some small soldering. You could just splice a 360 component cable onto a Chinese component cable but this way you have a pretty much official cable that is very high quality.. Here goes. Get yourself a 360 component cable and a standard AV cable with the 3 RCA plugs, red, white and yellow. . Cut the head off your original Xbox AV cable. Take a hair dryer to it now to make the plastic sleeve malleable and remove the sleeve from around the socket. Use a screwdriver to help pry it off if needs be. It should come pretty easy but don't be too rough as we want to get it back on at the end. Now loosen off the clasps around the cable by prying them out with a screwdriver and then with a long nose pliers if needed. Again don't go too mad as we will need to squeeze these back on at the end. Now you should be able to remove half this casing. The socket itself with the pins will still be secured inside. Update: before opening the metal casing as per the following instructions and image you can actually remove the pin connector without opening it, you can push the pin connector out. This is the preferred method but I am leaving the previous instructions here. Now take a long nose pliers and carefully separate the remaining casing. Do this carefully and slowly just enough so you can remove the pin housing. The less you bend this the nicer it will look at the end. Take note of the way the two sides lock into each other. The little tabs click in from the top. So grab the side with the tab and pull up. So pull up the right hand side then turn it around and again pull up the right hand side. Patience, remember this has to go back together. Try to open this up less than I have here if you can. Don't worry about the black shield cables soldered on to the casing. We will be removing these anyway. Once you get the pins out if you're lucky you'll just have a piece of black tape over the pins. If you're unlucky you'll have a blob of hot glue over them both sides. Don't despair....you can get this off with some small effort. If you are met with the glue you can again soften it with a hair dryer and get a screwdriver and gouge the majority of it off carefully. I would then get some sticky stuff remover and spray it on and leave it for 5 minutes. Then carefully scrape lengthways down along each pin with the corner of your small flathead screwdriver until it is all gone. Take your time and make sure it's all off. This is the stuff I use for that. Here is the pins that the lucky people will get with the tape. Lovely clean pins straight from the factory. Now take your 360 component cable and cut the head off this just below it's socket and get the sleeve off your original Xbox socket and put it onto your 360 cable. Just keep turning it until it goes on. It's pretty much the exact fit. And a second time...PUT THE SLEEVE ON YOUR 360 CABLE BEFORE YOU START TO SOLDER!!! You do not want that sinking feeling when you've just done lots of tedious work to find you've to de-solder everything because you forgot to put the sleeve on. Now take a sharp knife and about 2 inches back from the end score a ring around the insulation. Take your time and bend it a bit and let the sharp knife do the work. Don't go mad here. You want all of the shields inside to be intact. Again. Patience. You'll be met with a load of cables with a braided shield around them. The cable with the colour is the signal every time and the shield wrapped around it is that signals ground. It is possible you could find two cables, a signal and ground both insulated and not braided shields. Either way it's the same thing and actually easier if you don't have the braided ones because the braids are trickier to solder because they are bigger. You will also have some white fibres up the middle. Cut these off. And an overall screen, the one that's on it's own. Don't cut this off. For each cable push the braid down a bit to loosen it and make a hole as near the base as you can by separating the braid and pull the coloured cable through. Then pull the braid and twist it nice and tight without breaking it. The idea is to get it as thin as you can. When you've separated each signal from it's screen measure it against the length of cable already soldered onto the original Xbox pins and give yourself a bit extra and cut them all. Strip the ends of each signal. Only about 3 or 4mm and be careful not to pull out strands while stripping the insulation. Make sure there are on stray strands by giving the ends a little twist and tin the ends and also tin about a half inch or so of each braided screen. Try keep them tight with no loose strands. To tin put a small bit of solder on your iron and use this to heat up the wire and flow the solder with the transferred heat of the wire, not the iron. This makes the strands basically into a solid cable. Now desolder all on the cables from your original Xbox pins. Also I highly recommend you use Weller solder or similar decent quality solder as it will make life easier than using cheap stuff. Now to the good stuff. I have taken this diagram from an online search and did not create it myself. It is the best diagram out there and credit to the Creator. I will find the name of the guy on YouTube that has done this and credit him. So you have already tinned your cable ends and braided screens. Now you want to go and tin each pin you will be using. Just a tiny bit of solder and heat the pin for a second. Do not stay on the pins with your iron for anything over 2 seconds or you'll melt plastic. Take your time. Everything one by one. When you've tinned all the pins all you need to do for every solder joint is put a tiny bit on your iron and press down gently and the tinned cable will marry into the tinned pin. Do not use extra solder, no need. The tiny bit I suggest for your iron is simply to transfer the heat. Go ahead and tin pins 1, 2, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11, 12, 14, 15, 18, 19, 21 and 22. That is for audio right and left signals and grounds, two jumpers for the mode and red, green and blue signal and grounds. To note the connector I've used here is one that was covered in hot glue so it looks a bit bashed up but is electrically sound. Audio right - red to pin 1 and it's ground to pin 2. Also make 2 small jumper wires and tin them as previously. Solder these as shown to pins 6 and 7. Bend the jumper wires around to the other side and solder pin 6 jumper to pin 18 and pin 7 jumper to pin 19. Ignore that strand to the right, that is the overall screen and it's not soldered to a pin, just a bad picture. Blue signal to 9 and it's ground to 10. Green signal to 11 and it's ground to 12. Audio left - white signal to 14 and it's ground to 15. Be careful that you don't mix up the pink with the white, they look very very similar. Last but not least the pink signal wire to 22 and it's ground to 21. Careful with this one. All the rest were 'signal, ground' and this one is 'ground, signal'. Tape up the yellow cable. Nice to have a spare socket at the end of your cable so you can fix this in years to come if one of the rca plugs every gets broken you can solder the yellow up instead. Take the yellows ground and twist the thin overall ground wire around it. Bend it as shown and then tin them together with some solder. We will use this to ground the metal housing on the plug. Scratch up this part on the plug housing with a screwdriver. Now turn your iron up a touch if needed and flow solder onto the part you just scratched up. Solder the screen from the yellow that we tinned together with the overall screen to this part of the case. Cut a strip of electrical tape. The width of standard electrical tape is perfect to cover the pins. I recommend you do this instead of hot glue to insulate the pins. At this point plug it in to your OGXbox and see does it all look good. (Troubleshooting tips at the bottom of this post if it doesn't look quite right) Put this guy back into the other part on the plugs housing and carefully crimp back on the cable grips after around the outer insulation. If you were careful taking apart your plug top earlier you will be happy right about now. If you weren't don't worry, just get a long nose pliers and carefully form it all back together. Remember these tabs click in from the top. They won't sit right if you try click them in from the under side so you'll have to do a touch of light convincing with a long nose pliers again. Be careful of the pins inside now. Don't want to break it now after all of that. Don't lose the cool once they are almost snug you can put a bit of pressure on the tabs with a screwdriver to secure the housing. Once it is fairly solid slide your sleeve back down to cover it up. Now what you have is a top quality fully Microsoft component cable for your OGXbox. In my opinion it's better quality by a mile than the old HD kit and and the monster cable. It's also two fingers up to the cretins that want 70 quid for a cable. You'll get a brand new 360 component cable for around the price of one of those horrendous terribly shielded Chinese component cables and everyone has an AV composite 3 plug standard cable lying around. Also the 360 cable is about 2 metres long. Hope this is of some use to someone. I originally threw a few of them pictures up on the Facebook group but thought I'd post it up here as a reference for anyone who is interested. TROUBLESHOOTING: When you have finished soldering all of the pins do a continuity test with your multi-meter between each pin that are next to each other, You may have one strand from the shield bridging the pin next to it. If this is the case you can try run a sharp knife between the pins to separate any stray strands. A quick multi-meter test is to test between each tip of each RCA plug to the pin you soldered for that signal on the plug. Also check the tip of each against ground (outer ring or barrel the of RCA) make sure there is nothing bridged out. Note that all ground will be connected together. If you plug it in to your OGXbox and it doesn't look right, go back and check each cable you soldered against the diagram again and if needs be reflow any dodgy joints. If you plug it in to your OGXbox and you are missing a colour again go back and check your wiring/soldering. The colours are RGB (Red = Pink cable, Green = Green cable, Blue = Blue cable) For example if you see only Greens and Blues when you load up a game the issue is with your Red colour (Pink cable) and you may have mixed up the ground and signal. The same is true for any colour you seem to be missing. Also do a test of the Audio Right and Left by plugging one out at a time and see do you still have sound. Any issues, the fix will be as above, re-check your wiring against the diagram and re-flow if necessary. Try the cable with a game you know well so you know how it should look colour wise. If it all looks and sounds good close it all back up and enjoy!! Note also that there is a perfectly good optical audio pcb inside the Xbox 360 head, maybe someone could have a go getting that usable. You can also connect the yellow to pin 24 and it's ground to 23 instead of connecting ground to the overall screen and leaving yellow spare. I rather keep it as a spare, means your cable will last long into the future and I don't ever plan on using it as a regular yellow, red and white composite.
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
    They go into UnleashX's skins folder. where that's at all depends on how UnleashX is configured as the directory's location can be set. If the default path value of Skins is listed in the System -> Settings -> System -> Skins Path line. Then, you need to determine where UnleashX's default.xbe file is running from. While on a menu, not in the Settings page, press Y. Scroll down until you reach the UnleashX section that displays the Path and Phy. Location values. FTP to the console and to go this Path location on the Xbox's hard drive. There you should find a folder named skins. Upload each skin's zip into a named subfolder there or extract the contents of the skin's archive file and upload the contents into a named subfolder. (To save space on the hard drive, leave each skin in it's own zip file stored in a subfolder named the skin's name you want displayed in the skin selection menu. Multiple skins cannot be stored inside one zip file.) Enough of the word skin in that line. Even though a skin's skin.xml file contains the skin name, the folder name where it is stored is used in UnleashX's skins menu list when selecting a different skin. Skins, like games, cannot be stored under sub sub folders of the scanned path set for them.
  49. 1 point
    I would load the HeXEn disc, and boot it up on your Xbox. From there, you can rebuild your drive, upgrade to a larger drive, and reinstall M$ dash. Since your system is TSOP modded, there is no need to run a softmod installer.
  50. 1 point
    Started at 8:40, finished at 9:13 Step 1 - Remove RF shielding from underside of Case Top. Use a heat gun or hair dryer on the underside where the jewel sits above. Don't heat too long and move the air around, too much heat can warp or burn through the plastic. Once you have sufficiently warmed the bottom, the foam tape under the jewel will have softened. Use a prying tool or a thin flat head to pry up. Don't force it too much, you don't want to damage the edge of the jewel. Once you get the flat head under the jewel a little ways, lift the handle of the screwdriver upward so you are lifting the jewel with the shaft of the screw driver instead of the tip. Lift slowly, the tape is stretchy and will work itself free. The jewel can be fragile, you don't want to fracture or crack it. Step 2 - Use thermal paste remover to soften tape if needed.. On that hard rubber tape that some units have I had to re-apply and scrape off, I actually used the flat heat a little for that (carefully). The soft stuff you can just wipe with a rag. Just like when removing thermal paste the more moist the substrate, the more it penetrates what you are removing. I actually used that to completely get rid of all the green also by wiping over it.. BE CAREFUL IF USING - If you let the remover sit too long it can damage the plastic. When I did the jewel above, i had no issues, i did another yesterday and completely screwed it up. ALTERNATIVE - Sand it down, start with a little grit like 320 or so, if you can get the tape off by warming, peeling, goo gone or whatever, you can probably go right to 600 grit (can use an orbital here). Then do the wet sanding at 1000 grit, then 3000 grit. Step 3 - using Meguiars Headlight kit, I wet sanded using the 1000 grit (have used orbital also, but easy enough by hand). I did both sides of jewel, continuously adding water, then used the 3000 grit pad on both sides jewel. step 4, Use about a nickels worth of plastX cleanser and polish (to both sides) and buff with the drill wheel. Dry with microfiber cloth and ready for paint or leave as is if you want a clear jewel. The kit you can get on Amazon. It comes with the buffing wheel, 2 sanding pads, an the plastX solution.

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