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  1. When you clone the current IDE hard drive to a new SATA hard drive/adapter combo, the IDE bus speed was set by the DVD and original hard drive which works with the stock IDE cable. However, once you switch to the SATA HDD/adapter and DVD drive, the IDE bus speed increased to a rate the stock 40-wire 40-pin cable cannot handle without data transfer errors. Swap out the stock IDE cble for an 80-wire 40-pin high-speed IDE cable and the problem goes away.
    2 points
  2. As a rule the Xbox will not boot with failed cap's in the PSU and if there is failed or failing caps on the main board the Xbox may boot but could have issues with video and or it may randomly shut down. The chance for a capacitor exploding in a Xbox is extremely low although it can make a mess if they do explode but in 99% of cases I have seen items with exploded caps in items there was no damage to the boards and the most common cause of the caps exploding was from over voltage (like using a 6.3 volt cap on 12volt or more) and if that's the case then you have bigger problems. The most common caps that need replacing are the three or five next to the heatsink followed by the one or 2 next to the 12 or 20 pin power connector. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.
    2 points
  3. The Nichicon HM series near the heatsink on some revisions (I believe only 1.4 but that's all I've seen) fail as they can bulge and lose capacitance without power applied. I've had two consoles bulge, when I put them away, the capacitors were fine. It's only because they're a bad batch. On an LCR meter I believe all 3300uF caps read around 10-20uF which is very bad but ESR was within normal range. It prevented powering of the consoles whereas both were working fine before. It could be the warm environment I stored them in? Aside from that, I don't think there's much of an issue. I've got electrolytics that are much older (1970s) in equipment such as my main amplifier still working well within spec, or close enough that it's not an issue.
    2 points
  4. Unusual problem - and unusual error code for a problem that can be solved just by swapping the cable position. Is the HDD set to Cable Select, perhaps? Try swapping it to Master. You're using a SATA HDD adapter so I'd be thinking something going wrong with that is the most likely culprit. But you should be using an 80 wire IDE cable with a SATA HDD/adapter and as that is the cheapest option I'd try replacing your existing IDE cable with one of those before spending more on a new SATA > IDE adapter. It could be something else but without having the means to check the HDD or the DVD drive with known good replacements the best hope is what I've suggested.
    2 points
  5. Do you have the Avalaunch 0.49.3 Xmas Build 138 archive? If so, will you share it?
    1 point
  6. A hard modded and soft modded system do not play nice with each other and when you use the fix boot problems option on the OGXbox installer disk on the soft modded drive it would have removed the soft mod and that's fixed it for the hard-modded Xbox but it's upset the drive for the soft modded Xbox. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.
    1 point
  7. Wow, many thanks for all those explanations ! My question about PAL 50Hz is just because I like my consoles can read all games regions at the exact frequency… even if I never use 50Hz I’ll play to NTSC 60Hz in 480p most of the time. My question about the exact frequency was to know if a PAL region free Xbox can run NTSC games with the exact NTSC frequency, 59,9Hz. But if I can’t have a clear answer about that, it’s possible I finally buy a NTSC Xbox to be sure. If I do such thing, could I region free my NTSC Xbox to PAL and JAP region by the same way than a PAL one ? Those Xbox revisions are very complicated IMO. Well, I’ll play only with original games on « official » discs, not with CD-R/RW, and, if I understand well what you say, Hitachi DVD player has problem with original Xbox games discs…. Yoy say also Thomson are the most reliable…. I don’t really want to do a lot of softmod, to correct the 480p problem and other things, that’s why I prefer when a chip can simply region free a console, as on Gamecube. I just play my NTSC games, and it’s fine. I suppose if I want to have a maximum « stock » console, I should buy a V1.0, NTSC Xbox, remove and replace all what it needs, and with a Thomson DVD player. Have you heard about the best RGB picture on V1.6 ? In all case, by RGB, this means it’s only a better picture for 480i resolution, not for ED/HD resolutions by component ?
    1 point
  8. 1). 480p is 60Hz and according to the 480p wiki comes in at least 10 different recognised formats AFAIK but there is is no 480p 50Hz 'PAL' format let alone support for it on the Xbox. '480p'. Xbox WS appears to be 720 x 480p ie. 3:2 not 16:9. 720 x 480p:- My TV does have 576p/50Hz support but although you can apparently force some consoles (GC/Wii) to use it the games don't officially support it and may display with problems if the are forced. But why you'd want to play a game at 50Hz when a 60Hz option is available is another question. Higher resolution ie. the extra, roughly, 100 lines of 576p/576i over 480p/480i is not the only only consideration when talking about PQ. 2). I think what you're asking is whether the PAL Xbox is using PAL60 (NTSC 4.43) or NTSC (NTSC 3.58) - not sure. I'd like a definitive answer on that myself because it has been my suspicion that the claimed "PAL60" mode is actually NTSC 3.58 like the PS2. The only PAL console I know that I'm certain uses PAL60 for 60Hz is the Sega PAL Dreamcast but I wouldn't be surprised if the PAL Sega Saturn did too. 3). No idea. 4). I'd say buy the youngest ie. a v1.6 despite its issues with a couple of dozen games when you use 480p. These are easily resolved in 90% of those cases by using Rocky5's 480p v1.6 script. Clock cap problems are known to be less common with the v1.6s, probably because they are the last and therefore youngest models. That applies to all caps but it will depend on how much use and abuse the particular console has had. The clock cap used in the v1.6s, supposedly, is of better quality. Based on my experience as for the DVD drive in order of preference: Hitachi > Thomson (original model) > Samsung 605B > Samsung 605F > Philips 35/21. There are actually two Philips and, apparently, an earlier Samsung too, I've never owned them or the later Thomson either. Too many 'top' DVD drive tables only seem to be concerned with media compatibility - doesn't bother me. If you use DVD-R which are still easily found worldwide it is the only universal disc media proven to work with all Xbox disc drives. For me it is mechanical reliability and with that longevity which matters. I use a chipped v1.6a I've had since 2004 with a Hitachi and despite the fact it doesn't like CD-Rs (works with CD-RW) it has been the epitome of reliability. However it is the one disc drive I know for certain has a read issue with an original Xbox game disc. The same disc plays perfectly with any other disc drive and if you use the Hitachi to install it on the HDD likewise. But play it from the disc itself and it buffers regularly. I have two Hitachi and both have the same problem - it is probably unique to that particular game, Myst 4: Revelation. I've never had anything similar with any other disc drive but there is a possibility there are other games out there with the same issue. The Thomson is unfairly castigated IMHO - I don't like my Thomson, it is noisy, annoyingly so but it is reliable unlike the Samsungs (tray eject problems guaranteed) or the Philips 35/21. The latter I've now had two or three become unusable, quite suddenly too where they not only refuse to read discs but also interfere with the Xbox booting.
    1 point
  9. The answers to your questions are yes in all cases. That is exactly the the same set up I've been using for at least 15 years, probably longer, including using a 480p capable CRT. I've used PAL original discs, imported NTSC ones and tested NTSC versions against PAL ones and if there is any difference at 480p or any other resolution it is insignificant. What I can say for sure is that 480p beats the PQ of PAL50 or PAL60 or NTSC by a country mile even when using a high quality RGB SCART cable (Monster) with a 100/120MHz CRT Sony TV. That gives the best SD PQ quality I've seen from a Xbox but even then the difference between that and a Component cable with the same SD resolutions on a non-100/120MHz CRT TV is small.
    1 point
  10. Thanks for your detailed answer. Well, if I correctly understand what you say, it seems there is no some optimization for Xbox PAL games, and I suppose I can just give a try to one of them, and compared by myself with his NTSC equivalent (Xbox games aren’t the most expensive lol). I ask this question because, first, I wanted to buy a NTSC Xbox, to have directly ED/HD resolutions, but it’s easy for me to get a PAL Xbox, and softmod it to unlock NTSC region and all the features with it. So, can you confirm me if the configuration I expect to use is the right : Xbox PAL softmodded NTSC + High Definition AV Pack + Component cable + original discs NTSC/PAL games = proper 480p (and beyond if higher native resolutions are possible) ? I specify I play on HD CRT (multiformat BVM), and I just want to use native resolutions and original games. For Gamecube, I know it very well. Maybe you misunderstood me. PAL games have a 480i/576i mode, and they are optimized for it. If you play on a stock PAL Gamecube, you can’t have 480p with them, even using a DOL-001 (with the Digital AV port), and the official component cable, you’ll have only 480i or 576i, depending what mode you chose. But if you use a region free PAL Gamecube, you can launch NTSC games, and select the progressive scan mode at the beginning of the game (exactly by the same way than 480i/576i mode on PAL, pressing B button). You need of course to have the component cable for this. This is my exact configuration, I play NTSC games on my region free PAL Gamecube, with the official component cable. Nevertheless, using Swiss, with this configuration, you can forced 480p on PAL games (and even higher resolutions). But, on some games, forced progressive scan doesn’t give a proper result, because PAL games have been optimized for 480i/576i mode, and you can have problems on picture. All PAL Gamecube games I have played, which have this 480i/576i mode, have the progressive scan mode (480i/480p) on their NTSC equivalent. To finish, I point out I use the component cable for 480p, of course, but for some NTSC games which haven’t progressive scan option, I use a RGB C-Sync cable to display 480i, because RGB gives a little better picture than component IMO, so I prefer use it when it’s possible.
    1 point
  11. TBH I don't how PAL Xbox 480p game support is enabled. My guess based on the evidence is that the 'NTSC' 480p (or higher in some games' cases) is that the 'PAL' and 'NTSC' discs are identical or near enough identical. They may have different UDATA/TDATA IDs but are otherwise essentially the same. That is what appears to be true of the significant number of genuinely region free games. They may be sold as NTSC but they'll play perfectly even when using an unmodified Xbox in PAL50 and PAL60. An example of this is Myst 4 Revelation. There never was a PAL release, it had to be imported but it played without any problems using a retail PAL Xbox or a modded PAL Xbox region swapped to NTSC. There are other examples although I'm not sure what PAL only released games, if any, were completely region free. Region locking and resolution support is something the makers/publishers of the games decided on - the Xbox itself is region free except that in PAL regions we were, for no good reason, prevented from accessing the ED/HD options by the limited PAL video settings GUI. 480p is only available if your Xbox is NTSC or a region swapped PAL one so as far as 'PAL' optimisation goes it doesn't make any sense that they would include an 'optimised' PAL 480p mode nobody could access rather than, simply, adding PAL50 support to what is otherwise a NTSC disc. Ergo 480p on a PAL or NTSC game disc is the same....................................probably. I await to be educated if any of this is wrong. BTW I think you're wrong about the GC - from what I've read no PAL GC game included 480p support so they can not be forced. Only NTSC GC games supported 480p. However you could use a Free Loader swap disc to play them on a PAL GC (or Wii too I think) in 480p. With the PAL GC you also needed to be using one of the earlier models which had the extra 'Digital' port and a GC Component cable. The latter were rare in PAL regions and very expensive to import. I paid more for my one than I did for my PAL GC only to find out that I'd also have to import NTSC GC games to get 480p. That money importing the GC Component cable was effectively wasted as the RGB picture quality at 480i/60Hz via RGB SCART cable was just as good or better than Component at 480i/60Hz. Again if I'm wrong about any of this I'm here to know more.
    1 point
  12. unicorn is a good term because everything you search says it exists except NOBODY and I do mean NOBODY has ever seen one.
    1 point
  13. Näääää, you don't have a 1.5. Do a clean install with an installler to set up new dashboards etc. in the right location so the TSOP will find it.
    1 point
  14. Did you remove the softmod after flashing the TSOP with a modified Xbox BIOS? A softmod and modified BIOS don't play well together. It should not have booted up without removing the softmod after you did the TSOP flash.
    1 point
  15. I'm using the latest beta. I re-extracted the game files last night and FTPed some games over and they launched fine. I used FatXplorer to transfer the same files over and they still wouldn't launch. The issue seems to lie with FatXplorer.
    1 point
  16. @HDShadow Hello. I solved the problem. Just by connecting the 80wire the error disappeared. So I concluded that the normal IDE cable was the cause. I just can't figure out was it worked with normal cable in the first place and suddenly stopped. But with the new 80 wire it is okay. Thank you for your help.
    1 point
  17. I dont think it will lessen frame drops
    1 point
  18. Every xbox has its own overclock limit,so what works for me,may not work for you. You must try "xboverclock" yourself to find your xbox's limits. Once you do it,you will have to patch your games to run at your new cpu speed,otherwise your games will run faster than normal. You will only gain 2-3 fps wich is not worth in my opinion. Good luck and have a nice day
    1 point
  19. The Lattice LC4032 chip requires a JTAG programmer to program it. After programming the CPLD, it may be configured to not allow updating its coding. As well as, not allowing the current coding to be read from it.
    1 point
  20. In my view I think you are worrying to much. If I think there is going to be a issue because someone else has attempted to repair an item in for repair I would then inspect the insides then use a current limited supply to power up the item. In the case of a mains unit I have a 100watt and 200watt incandescent light globes in series with the active wire and if the lamp is fully illuminated there is a problem. If the Xbox is in the carton that's fully sealed I would leave it like that and find a one that's not so rare. If you mean it's just never been opened (warranty seals intact) there is a good chance that's it's been used at some stage so just plug it in and see what happens. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing. .
    1 point
  21. Hello! After months of focusing primarily on the Nintendo Wii, the Electron Shepherd team has just released a new product that we are thrilled to share: the Xbox2HDMI module! This tiny, power-packed module takes in the Component video and digital audio output from the Original Xbox and outputs an HDMI signal with embedded Dolby Digital Surround Sound (if that audio setting is enabled in your Xbox’s settings). This module utilizes a fully custom PCB with a higher quality, next generation IC compared to what is typically used on the widely available Wii2HDMI and VGA2HDMI modules that are readily available online. If you are not happy with those modules, then you will absolutely be happy with these. This module efficiently supports the 480i, 720p, and 1080i resolutions that are default to the original Xbox. These units can be bought with ease on our store located here: https://electron-shepherd.com/xbox2hdmi/ Please let use know if you have any questions about this or any other product we currently offer! - Shane from Electron Shepherd LLC https://twitter.com/ElectronShep
    1 point
  22. If the stock MS dashboard loads after powering on the console with a long power button press, a replacement dashboard may not be installed on the hard drive. Installing a modchip is one part of the modding process. Installation of a replacement dashboard is the next step. When powered on with the modchip enabled, is there an Evox shield displayed in the upper left-hand corner of the screen? Is text other than Microsoft printed below the big X logo at the end of the startup animation? Next, perform the following steps to see if a modified Xbox BIOS is booting: 1. Power on the console with a short power button tap. 2. Go to Settings > System Info. Wait for the end of the scroller before it repeats. Does it have a D and K line? If so, what are the values displayed for each? 3. Power off the console but this time power it on with a long power button press. Repeat step 2.
    1 point
  23. An update, so having tried this on two 1.6 xbox's and a third which was 1.2 to 1.5 I sent the open xenium back to the seller who've advised me that the IC CPLD had fried and sent me a replacement. I cannot tell how this happened specially with the first install attempt I used the LPC rebuild QSB. I've now installed the the replacement open xenium on 4 console that is 1.2 to 1.5 and it works perfectly fine. Thanks for your help everyone.
    1 point
  24. You will need an LRC meter. It is a type of electronic test equipment used to measure the inductance (L), capacitance (C), and resistance (R) of an electronic component. For capacitors, it gives you the Equivalent Series Resistance (ESR) value - some of the original capacitors on the Xbox are to be low or ultra-low ESR devices. [ This B&K LCR Meter Guide provides a thorough write-up about their operation and usage. ] To measure a capacitor the device has to be removed from the circuit. At least one lead disconnected from the rest of the circuit it connects to but easier to completely remove it from the circuit. For the low voltage capacitors on the Xbox, there may be no problem. The one's I think that may have a problem are the high voltage rated electrolytic caps on the Xbox's power supply. Electrolyte can dry out and/or leak from capacitors. Thus, they no longer function as a capacitor. Reforming Electrolytic Capacitors One of many web pages I found about capacitor reforming: https://www.6v6.co.uk/vcomp/tech_tips/reform_caps.htm
    1 point
  25. Yes, the xbox is softmodded and it is running the dashboard from rocky5 Xbox Softmodding Tool Extras Disc\Softmod\softmod files\ to USB The extra's disc was burned properly and succesfully used in other xboxes... I might didn't work because this a 1.6 version? Okay you are right it wasn't necessary to upgrade my dashboard to 5960. Okay your ISO and Attacher file totally fixed my problem!!! Thanks a lot
    1 point
  26. Is the console is currently softmodded and running a replacement dashboard? I need to check which softmod package that tutorial uses. Edit: I just checked that video tutorial use Rocky5's Xbox Softmodding Tool. I suggest downloading from the Xbox Softmodding Tool prebuilt repository then FTPing the following two files to an E:\Apps\Extras Disc\ subfolder on your Xbox: Build v1.1.8 / Extras Disc / Xbox Softmodding Tool Extras Disc.iso, and the attach application, default.xbe, from the Build v1.1.8 / Extras Disc / Extras / Extras Disc Attacher.zip archive. Note: Many Xbox softmods are based on NKPatcher which adds hooks into the Xbox's kernel to mount and run XISO disc images from the hard drive. Running the attach app mounts and runs the default.xbe file inside of the disc image. If the replacement dashboard is configured to scan E:\Apps to add items to its menu, a reboot should add the Extras Disc application to the menu to run the disc image from the hard drive.
    1 point
  27. 1 point
  28. Hi, Sorry for the late reply, I was away, some progres: I've tried XBlast XBE version and no joy, the xbox reboots when I select the bios and hit the trigger / key combo. Sometimes I see a screen flash before reboot which looks like it's trying to write or something, but it's so fast I can't really tell. I can flash the chip with a TL866II. Tested this by following your instructions from here and removing the evox logo: https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/index.php?/topic/4444-bios-without-logo/&do=findComment&comment=28736 Xbox boots successfully to the dash. While taking the chip out and programming it is not the end of the world (I guess when I figure out the HDD issues I'll settle on a bios and be done), it would be great to solve this and help anyone else with the issue. I'll keep experimenting, but if you have further ideas I am open to suggestions. Edit: the chip is identified and flashes as a SST49LF002A part, so it seems it has just been relabelled. Thanks -j
    1 point
  29. Click on the green box called code the you can download the whole lot as a zip file Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.
    1 point
  30. Definitely a bad batch. Those 3300uf are the Nichicon HM series which were used in many computers from around 2002-2006 I believe. They all go bad yet others stay fine. I think it's still going bad. I've seen a few which have visible rot yet displayed no symptoms (I still trace repair them!), and one with no visible rot yet still developed the symptoms. See this guide: https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/index.php?/topic/29-how-to-fix-trace-corrosion/
    1 point
  31. was it the one mentioned in the first post of this thread: https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/index.php?/topic/3866-aladdin-flash-not-writable/
    1 point
  32. Yes, the flash memory chip on it is "fake". Note: All Aladdin XT plus 2's in current production are clones of the original - so all are now fake but these are even more FAKE!. The flash memory chip has been relabeled stating that it is an SST49LF020A but it is actually an SST49LF002A. The JEDEC ID returned by the chip when Evoxdash tries to flash it tells you so. Manufacturer ID: bf Device ID: 57 A real SST49LF020A's ID is bf52 (edit: bf61's not the ID for an SST49LF020A but an SST49LF020), not bf57. Edit: Or does it. Hard to tell with a "FAKE" chip.
    1 point
  33. Correct, a BFM BIOS is loaded by the Xbox application Phoenix BIOS Loader (PBL), not flashed to a modchip. If you do flash a BFM BIOS to your modchip, the console will no longer boot.
    1 point
  34. Looking at the BIOS feature table, All Retail Bios Information (From XBox-Scene), the Evox M8plus BIOS shows that it includes the eject trick but not the eject fix patch. eject trick if xbe is compiled with specific flag, the xbox will not reset when you press eject-button eject fix xbox will never reset if you press eject-button Some applications, most likely homebrew programs like replacement dashboards, are compiled with that specific flag - need to do a bit more research to find out what flag that is - so the Xbox will not reset when eject is pressed. However, retail games most likely do not have that flag set. If you are playing an Xbox game and press Eject, the console will reset.
    1 point
  35. I agree 100%. I was modding his as a favor and he asked that I leave it as original as possible for whatever reason, so it still has the original IDE hdd (even though I expressed his options with that smaller drive were going to be very limited) and had the original IDE cable as well. Normally I put in much larger SSD SATA drives, 80-pin ISE cable, etc. This was definitely a learning experience on that one. On a side note, I tried conductive paint this time instead of soldering the motherboard. worked like a champ and no danger of ruining the board if you make a mistake. I am pretty good at soldering, but wanted to try that. Pretty cool stuff. And if you mess up, you can easily remove the paint and redo it.
    1 point
  36. Some 40 pin IDE connectors have a blocked off pin to make sure it's connected the right way. What's happened is the IDE plug was pushed in upside down and pushed the pin in if you open the DVD you can push it back in place. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It get's the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.
    1 point
  37. That's the 5 volt supply and they bent it out of the way to stop the mod chip led from staying on. I make a change to the Aladdin chip like this as this way the led is switched off with the power button. If you are seeing the Evox logo then the mod chip has done it's job and it should load a install disk unless it was flashed with a no-DVD bios from hexen. The DVD drive should cold boot( put the DVD in the drive and power off then on) a disk like OGXbox installer 2021, Hexen and the like, When you burn DVD for the Xbox it's best to use a DVD-r and a good quality blank ( I use Verbatim DVD-r) with the write speed as slow as possible. If you have a DVD drive from a different Xbox try that or you can even use a PC DVD drive to load a burnt DVD, A PC DVD drive will not read an original game disk but will read a install disk. Also as the Xbox is hard modded I would leave the HDD Unlocked as the only reason for locked HDD is to boot the stock bios for Xbox Live or a Soft-Mod. Don't worry about re flashing the mod chip at this stage. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.
    1 point
  38. Guess what, StarTech IDE2Sata adapter just turned up and its working flawlessly with the jumper set onto cable select. Was able to boot HeXen 2018 from the disc, install dash and repartiion the HDD. So like you said I had 3 dud chinese IDE2Sata adapters. Thanks for your help.
    1 point
  39. The 2 transistors are 3.3 volt regulators and should not get that hot you can not keep your finger on them and the master/slave pins should be open circuit. The pin near the 4 pin Molex is GND the furthest is 3.3 volt with the centre been the select pin. Unfortunately it sounds like you have 3 dud sate2ide adaptors. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.
    1 point
  40. It may have a short across 2 of the 4 traces across the front of the board as of the 4 traces the 2 closest to the edge are power/eject and the next 2 are red/green led, Or a bent pin the the plug connecting the switch board to the main board. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.
    1 point
  41. F only will work for a 1TB hard drive. F and G for a 2TB drive. Actually, either will work for a 2TB drive; however, I'm not sure that XboxHDM23USB adds the XBPartitioiner partition table to the hard drive. Hmmm,... Yes, however, that file, 5960 zip, doesn't have the audio files for the stock dashboard. There's another zip archive at his github repository you need too: https://github.com/Rocky5/Xbox-Softmodding-Tool/blob/master/Extras Disc/Softmod/dashboards/msdash/other/Audio.zip It contains the Audio subfolder for the stock 5960 retail dashboard. You are complicating things. You do not softmod an already hard modded console. The two clash and you generally get a black screen after the big X logo of the startup animation. No replacement dashboard will be running to FTP into the console. A TSOP'd/modchipped console booting a modified Xbox BIOS does not require the hard drive to be locked. A softmodded console does require the hard drive to be locked since it uses the original BIOS to boot the console. The stock/original BIOS requires the hard drive to be locked.
    1 point
  42. They are not correct for a TSOP modded / modchip installed Xbox. Beta 3's HDD_Files/C folder is preloaded with a no-original-game-disc-required bootable Xbox Softmodding Tool installer. You need remove what's already in Beta 3's HDD_Files/C folder and add files needed for a hard modded console: Stock MS Dashboard and replacement dashboard file sets. For most modified BIOSes, they attempt to load C:\evoxdash.xbe to run the replacement dashboard. However, with many of the new installer discs; OGXbox Installer 2021, etc.; they have BIOSes available with many different boot order settings. You need to know which XBE files your flashed BIOS is set to use to know where the replacement dashboard files need to be added to the hard drive.
    1 point
  43. So I was looking back into Xbox emulation to see how it has progressed, and Xemu claims it can play 62% of the games library now. I was reading up on how it works and you can command line load an iso, but it doesn't support compressed isos so I'm not interested in that method. It does also support Xbox hard drive images however, and custom dashes. I'm curious if anyone has used xboxhdm to create a hard drive image with one of the hard drive ready rom sets out there and a custom dash to play them in Xemu? Xemu doesn't specifically piece this all together for you on the website, but it seems that should work. Either way I'm going to try it, but just didn't know if anyone knows.
    1 point
  44. Easy-Build for XBOX Original What is it? A tool in testing for compiling xbox code. Easy to Update script. https://github.com/Empyreal96/easy-build-xbox How to use: Have easy-build-xinit.cmd on the ROOT of a drive e.g: D:\easy-build-xinit.cmd Open easy-build-xinit.cmd Setup the Xbox trunk in your Drive root as specified in easy-build-xinit (VHD users are already set up) Let the script apply Team Complex patches (These allow the xbox trunk to be built) Once that's done, follow onscreen instructions until Razzle loads Type into razzle: easybuild You can now build from the Easy-Build mainmenu Built binaries will be in %DriveRoot%\xbox\xboxbuilds\fre{dump} Any issues or suggestions please open an issue ticket so I can look into it Information Windows XP - 10 x86 Fixed issues with mstools/idw folders incorrectly being set Basic Options for compiling 'Unofficial' binplace script 'xcopybins.cmd' to place some built files Added 'xmakesamples.cmd' which builds the XDK Sample CD. Added a WIP script to set off the XDK build see XDK below Fixed %_BUILDVER% not being set on razzle-easybuild handover Changed menu colours (I may change back depending on feedback) Small update to some 'dirs' files that adds folders to the build process that can build successfully Separated easybuild.cmd (mainmenu) to public/tools/ Actual easybuild.cmd shows correct Razzle Tool Path now, starts xcopybins.cmd as postbuild XDK Building InstallShield Professional 6.2 is required for this: I have included my currently in progress script to try and build the Xbox SDK. Currently it fails compiling the InstallShield specific XDK Setup scripts.. To run the script, load Easy-Build, drop to Razzle prompt and type "private\SDK\setup\xsdkbuild.cmd" If you want to help the development of Easy-Build, have some issues join the Matrix chat! https://matrix.to/#/!febkSwamiedCsfevDe:matrix.org?via=matrix.org NOTE: This is VERY early stages.. It is lacking in many features that Easy-Build-NT5 has.. If I get time I will eventually figure out more of the build system, any and all help is greatly welcomed!!
    1 point
  45. Download the distribution version of Evox M8plus and EVTool v1.0.9. Extract both archives then run EVTool. Click on Open... and browse to the location of the file, M8plus_16.bin, to load the BIOS into the app. Change the LBA48 settings drop down selection, DVD Drive Check, and EvoX Logo check boxes as shown below: Note: Depending where your default dashboard is installed, you may need to make changes to the Boot Partitions and Executables section. Click Save as... to create a new dot bin file with the changes. Give the updated BIOS a different name (e.g., m8plus_16_LBA67_nodvd_or_logo.bin). Upload the new file to the BIOS subfolder where Evoxdash is installed on your Xbox. Run the Evoxdash and select the Flash BIOS menu option generally found under the System Utils option. Follow the onscreen instructions to complete flashing the updated BIOS to your modchip. After flashing the new BIOS is complete, the console will reboot and the Evox logo will no longer appear in the upper left-hand corner of the screen.
    1 point
  46. To my knowledge, noone has properly compared stock paste to a replacement. They think looking at the idle temperature is drawing a conclusion. The temp must be checked while a demanding game is running. Since OG xbox is single thread, the xbox won't tell you the temp. You could have an accessory read the serial data the sensor sends. Until then, noone has accurately concluded paste effectiveness
    1 point
  47. I made my first OG Xbox related video on my youtube channel and a good tutorial on how to overclock the xbox, take a look at the video.
    1 point

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