phrunt
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Everything posted by phrunt
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can't wait to learn how to do it, well done, absolutely fantastic
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Thanks, I just did the inplace upgrade on mine and worked perfectly. Appreciated.
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Clearing up 80-wire IDE cable requirement with SATA adapters
phrunt replied to test23523's topic in General Xbox Discussion
I use ASUS cables -
Clearing up 80-wire IDE cable requirement with SATA adapters
phrunt replied to test23523's topic in General Xbox Discussion
that pin32 is not connected on either cable, some cables do have it filled in, probably more to stop people forcing the cable back the front than anything Either way, there is no negatives to using an 80 wire cable, only positives, so I see no reason for not using one. Keep in mind they're both 40 pin, 40 wires one one, the same data wires on the other with another 40 as shielding wires between the data wires to allow for higher transfer speeds without crosstalk. Xbox has the cable backwards so that the shortest length is at the DVD drive, and the longer length makes it to the hard drive further away. -
Clearing up 80-wire IDE cable requirement with SATA adapters
phrunt replied to test23523's topic in General Xbox Discussion
80 wire cables meet the specifications for automatic cable select, 40 wire cables do not. A lot of SATA adapters require this. They also have cool colour coded connectors which the old 40 wire cables don't have which is a nifty feature but we ignore this on Xbox Blue: The blue connector attaches to the host (motherboard or controller). Gray: The gray connector is in the middle of the cable, and goes to any slave (device 1) drive if present on the channel. Black: The black connector is at the opposite end from the host connector and goes to the master drive (device 0), or a single drive if only one is used. The main difference is the extra 40 wires are just tied to ground to prevent cross wire electromagnetic interference allowing higher speeds reliably, yes you can force a 40-wire cable to do the higher speeds but corruption is possible. -
I don't know if this is of any use to anyone or if different to the one already posted in this thread but I found an old HDD i hadn't used since 2015 and it had a wide icons pack on it, shared here https://drive.google.com/file/d/10rBQK5jhdig52MvmIld-m4COy6PxXA6o/view?usp=sharing
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I guess in the worst-case scenario you could just use one of these, you'll loose the speed control but at least the fan will work.
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Messed up TSOP flash EvoX splash screen than black screen
phrunt replied to SplinterCell's topic in TSOP Flashing
@nikeymikeyhas the stock hard drives required files somewhere that you can just copy over to the new drive with FatxplorerX to get you going again, I'm sure he'll give you a link. -
Messed up TSOP flash EvoX splash screen than black screen
phrunt replied to SplinterCell's topic in TSOP Flashing
I would just forget about the old stock drive, so old it's going to be unreliable anyway, now you're TSOP worked just setup a new drive with FatXplorerX, may as well upgrade to a SATA drive while you're at it and use a IDE to SATA adapter to get you going like the Startech. -
Yea, I was at the point of giving up and writing off the xbox's motherboard so I had nothing to lose Fortunately I won.
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Some Nvidia GTX video cards around the time of the Xbox when faulty used to have corruption problems at some resolutions when they developed a fault, especially the 6600 GT but carried right through to the 8800 GTX, In lower resolution they'd work fine, crank that resolution up and run something like 3D Mark and you would get the corruption. We used to fix them by reflowing the solder on the GPU. Your problem sounds a fair bit like that. That's what inspired me to reflow the solder on a Focus chip on an Xbox I had that would just go black while playing games, sometimes flicking but more often than not black. Pressing on the chip would make the signal come back, a reflow solved it completely, worked ever since.
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Yea Spear of Destiny was a Wolf 3D offshoot, similar game, but really cool.
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Does anyone know where I can get Spear of Destiny 1 and 2? I actually own the original Floppy disks for this game which I've backed up to hard drive so I don't need the WADs just the homebrew port to run them. An old favourite game of mine. Thanks in advance.
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oh wow, I guess any electronics can fail at some point, pretty weird and unlucky though. At least you got to the bottom of the random freezing.
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I have that problem with one of mine, but it's a Samsung DVD drive. It only works if the Samsung is unplugged. The Chineseium works fine in the same situation.
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Outstanding, you're a champion, what an awesome mod chip. I'm blown away.
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I don't know how correct it is but when I was buying a couple of red Startech's a couple of months ago the retailer said they're discontinued but was able to get me 2 from their supplier anyway.
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Here are mine, I have 5 of them, all bought at once a few years ago from the same supplier on Aliexpress, all are working fine on UDMA 5, and I've ran one on UDMA 6 for a couple of weeks and found no issues.
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Perhaps I should take a photo of one of my good ones, might cut out some of the guess work, mine run UDMA 6 fine from what I can see but I run them in UDMA 5 to be safe and because I can't tell a performance difference at all, they're in Xboxes already though so I'd have to pull one apart to do so, happy to do it if it helps someone.
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It's odd as I bought 5 of them about 4 years ago, I have 5 of them in Xboxes all running UDMA 5 with no issues, I ran one as UMDA 6 for an experiment and couldn't see any issues. I like them in my 1.6 Xboxes are the Startech's won't let me run the Samsung DVD drives in them where as these cheap Chinese ones do. I guess something has changed in the newer versions to make them rubbish when the old models of them were good, at least from the batch I got. I need more but it looks like buying the Chinese ones will be a failure so I'll have to stick with Startech.
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Thanks, @prtscn I had another original controller that had the same fault as the first one, it was the small white wire that had a break in this controller, I was able to see the break when I opened it up. If the cable was held in the right spot it worked, so it must have made enough contact. I repaired it the same way as the first but worked out if I use silicone grease I can push the cable up through the strain relief thing far easier so I didn't have to put a cut in it this time to make its hole bigger. Once done I used the controller test software and tried everything out and it was great except the left vibrate motor didn't' work at all, it wasn't a wiring problem so I used a motor out of a cheap Chinese controller that I had that was faulty, this motor worked occasionally, other times when it started to spin the controller would drop out and say its unplugged and as soon as the motor stopped trying to work the controller returned automatically so gaves that use vibration would randomly say the controller is disconnected for a few seconds, so I just removed the motor entirely and will run it without that vibration, at least it's still a usable controller.
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What are everyone's thoughts on Electronics PCB varnishes? I have an outdoor hot tub / spa and it's initial PCB died after about 10 years from moisture damage, when I bought a replacement I spoke to the technician who told me to go to a particular electronics store and buy some PCB varnish and spray it on the PCB, let it dry before using it and it will give it great corrosion protection, he said he has no idea why the manufacturers of these outdoor PCB's don't already do this at the factory, planned obsolescence was his theory, as long as it lasts warranty it's of their benefit if you have to spend thousands on a new one. The other unusual thing about them is if you need to solder a repair the varnishes allow soldering through them, at least the brand I bought did, the one I've linked to below is an example, I bought mine from Jaycar Australia so was different to the one I linked to. Here is the sort of thing I'm talking about. Electronics varnishes and lacquers are materials applied to PCBs (Printed Circuit Boards) to protect against harsh environments, contaminants and corrosion.
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A thing I'm really enjoying about my new found hobby of restoring my Xboxes is keeping this two-decade old technology alive, it's fantastic tech, playing all these old games all over again.... my 13-year-old daughter loves it, she's more interested in the emulators and original Xbox games than modern games, she's seen my appreciation for the older games and their gameplay. I have another controller to tackle yet, similar problem and I suspect it's also a cable problem, it's got very similar behaviour, the cable in a certain position works, if it moves into the wrong one the controller drops out. Seems like damage in the same place so I'll start doing the same I did to this one, failing that I'll try one of the Chinese cables.
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Thank you, great idea. It appears the two black wires are just shield wires or something, well one of them certainly is as it's wired in with the shielding around the cable, so maybe those Chinese cables will work but have no shielding. I took your advice and just cut the cable short. In doing so I had to cut the ferrite section off it, I then had the little cable support to deal with, I was able to for the most part rescue that by drilling out the wire inside it as it was molded to the cable, then push the good bit of cable through it. I had to cut a split at one end to be able to get the cable through but I was able to sort that with liquid rubber joining it back together, works a treat as does the controller, all fixed. Thanks for the great tip. The left side of the cable is where the damage was somewhere inside it, I had to hold that straight for the controller to work, if it bent it wouldn't work, you can still see the residue of the tape I had wrapped around it to hold it straight to make the controller usable. Handy with these clear controllers you can see my work, I put heat shrink over all of my wire joins. Controller works like new. I hope that ferrite isn't necessary for some reason, I've got clip on ones I could add if beneficial.
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Has anyone replaced a controllers cable before? I've got 2 controllers that play up, If I bend the cable in a certain spot they both work, it's damage inside the cable right up near where it goes into the controller, I wrap them in lots of tape and they stay working as the cable can't bend then. I ordered some replacement cables from Aliexpress thinking I'd just swap them over, yet the Aliexpress cables only have 4 wires, and my controllers have 6. This is the replacement cables I bought, I bought a few of them so I'd have spares. I see in the feedback from buyers people have made them work by soldering the yellow wire on the cable to the location of the green wire, here is a couple of photos where people have done it Does this seem right? Am I safe to do this and not blow my USB ports on my Xbox when I plug it in? Will it work as its meant to with 2 wires missing? Seems odd.
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