phrunt

These worked for me, and they have the master/slave selection too https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32917345276.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.493a5a43PUbnig&algo_pvid=153b9979-d26d-4af7-8925-5f3b3df54316&algo_exp_id=153b9979-d26d-4af7-8925-5f3b3df54316-1&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"66005890060"}

You have to be a bit careful with some SSD's especially cheap ones, put your Xbox away in a cupboard for a year, come back to it and your data is gone. I've had it happen myself as I filled an SSD with movies for using in my Caravan, didn't use the Caravan for a year come back and the external SSD was blank, no partition nothing, like a new unpartitioned/unformatted drive. It was an A-Data SSD. It seems a controversial topic with some saying it happens others saying it doesn't or takes many years, for me... it did and in under 12 months. I've put my XBoxs away for 5 or more years with hard drives, fire them up and all is good. Since then I don't trust SSD's for powered off long term storage.

Well, as always you guys were awesome, it all went to plan. I changed the bad caps with success, no issues at all really as it was easier than I thought it'd be. The only thing that went wrong is I'd knocked off a wire from my mod chip in the process, luckily I took some photos during the process and I was able to put the wire back where it fell off. The Xbox is all up and running now with it's new caps. The other foolish heart stopping thing I did was had the TV on the wrong input when I turned the Xbox on so I had no signal, it gave me a heart attack I noticed when the Xbox booted up and the light changed to Red that I have it set to so I knew the Xbox had booted then I quickly worked out my mistake. This photo was once I'd take the board out before I stated the job, the photo that saved me with the mod chip wire falling off. I know it's controversial about changing the thermal paste but I did it to both the GPU and CPU while I was in there, just used the heat gun on my soldering station to put a bit of heat on the heat sinks so they came off very easily and scraped the old thermal paste off with a credit card and some pure alcohol then put Arctic silver on there. It sure didn't hurt, my temps are nice. The caps had quite obvious damage on top.

Thanks for the information. Hopefully they work OK on it.

Thanks, so I had it wrong, lucky I didn't proceed without checking OK so you've marked the negative side in black and I align that with the negative side which is the side with the little line on the silver standard caps. I bought some flux so I'll use your trick there. Thanks for the help.

I've managed to get some capacitors I think will be suitable for my Xbox, is anyone able to confirm they are the right sort Here are my old bad ones and the new ones The shop they came from said they were 1500uF 6.3V NICHICON HE Series 10x20mm Extremely Low Impedance Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors Any advice appreciated before I go attempting to replace capacitors for the first time I assume the original Xbox ones have that line on the top of one side to show the negative side? and I put the new capacitor oriented with the side with the line through the same hole? And I guess the circled bit on this new capacitor is the line?

Sounds good to me! Did you power off and on before running XB Partitioner to check for the ER on the final time before copying all your stuff on again?

yep, same problem I had the first time I did it years ago, you need to format your hard drive twice in XP Partitioner 1.3, the first time make the size a bit smaller than the available space on both partitions, then power off and on the Xbox and format it again this time to the full size and bingo you're off. Problem has been around since the start of time. Also make sure you've got 64kb cluster size. At the moment if you go into XB Partitioner as sweetdarkdestiny said, you'll have ER on the partitions.

Yes, the HDD was unlocked, I'm not a fan of locking hard drives as I see no point now XBox live is dead. I'd rather the drive unlocked so if the Xbox dies I can transplant it into another Xbox easily as many hours of work goes into getting my Xbox drives how I like them with all the stuff on them. All my problems are solved now by making the chip be on all the time.

This conductive shielding paint works too, I knew a guy that flashed a crazy amount of xboxs using it years ago, one bottle of it lasted him forever https://www.guitaraust.com.au/body/electronics/shielding-paint.html

Can you ftp the stock dash over to C, it might be missing some files. You're very close now, happy to see you've almost got it done.

Also, you are using an 80 wire IDE cable aren't you? I've had some weird problems in the past like this when using the standard cable. As soon as the 80 wire cable goes on things come to life.

awesome news, I'll put a 3tb in my next Xbox to get that little bit of extra space as my Xbox's are full already so I could use the extra space.

I'm no expert but until the smarter people appear I've had an error 16 before and it was similar to your situation, it means the date/time is messed up and you have no dashboard installed I believe and is normal after doing what you've done. That'd be because you just removed the clock capacitor and put in a new hard drive. When it happened to me all I had to do was boot off a installer DVD with the new blank hard drive in there and it installed everything and worked fine. Are you sure your DVD drive isn't having trouble reading the DVD, that would make sense in this situation, especially seeing after you left it for a bit and tried again suddenly you were able to boot off the DVD. Perhaps it just needs a few attempts to read the disk before timing out and trying to load the dash off the hdd. They're super fussy with DVD's and burn speeds.

All good, fixed it with 178.62.68.79 port 123

You've all be great in helping me get my two Xbox's to be awesome, I've got them both to a point I consider them perfect, my last little gripe is the time, they boot up thinking it's 2007. I've noticed the Xbox has a time server function where it can automatically connect to internet time servers and update the time with UnleashX and also XBMC, however every time server address I put in there doesn't work, even though the time servers do work on windows. Is there a time server anyone has found that actually works on the Xbox? I remember years ago I used to use this function and it used to work fine. If I can sort this out it's the last peace of the puzzle to Xbox perfection for me.

Ok, so I rolled back the firmware version this morning, here is the 2.3.1 firmware on my 1.6 crystal Xbox. and now I've flashed back to 2.3.0 and this is my screen now Perfect!

Yes exactly like that first image. I'm going to flash back to 2.3.0 today. I'm noticing on that thread they're all going back to 2.2.1 to fix the problem, mine was on 2.3.0 before I updated to 2.3.1 and 2.3.0 was working fine. Why is it that everyone is going back to 2.2.1 do you think? Should I do that too or put 2.3.0 back on it?

Interestingly my real Xenium was on XOS 2.3.0 and the eject button press to get to the Xenium OS was a perfectly nice clear picture using my XBOX on a HDMI adapter, then, I decided I'd upgrade it to the latest version 2.3.1 using the "recovery" method from the Xenium OS with the recovery file on E:, this all went well except after doing so now my Xenium OS has lines through it and washed out, still works obviously just not as nice as it was to view on 2.3.0. I'm considering flashing it back to 2.3.0 if I can find a copy of the recovery file to do so as there doesn't seem to be many benefits to 2.3.1 anyway and at least 2.3.0 displays properly. Sorry not really adding much to your problem and questions here, but might go some way to explaining why your Xenium OS gets lines all through it. I just read the above posts properly and it's already been mentioned the Xenium OS needs downgraded to make it clear and line free. Whoops.

Thanks, everyone's been great help, now my Xbox is great, the MS Dash works again after FTPing over the dash files,my 2TB drive is working well and filled up with stuff already, I can use the button combo to reboot from anything and it goes back to UnleashX and I've got it flashed with a 480P M8 bios so my HDTV works well off the HDMI adapter, no issues there at all, everything is great. I just have to tackle that capacitor, hopefully all goes well and I don't destroy the XBox I think shipping on the capacitors will be a month or two by the looks of it. At least it works fine without doing it, I haven't found any issue it's causing so far.

Thanks so much Dave, I did as you said and now the Xbox boots with a normal press of the power button, even pressing the eject button will fire it up now. It's acting completely normal. Now all I need to do is sort out the bad capacitor and it's all good to go. That's even scarier than doing the wires though

Ok, Just so I'm understanding correctly, completely remove the L1 and L2 wires, just get rid of them. The wire that's on BT I can just cut and use as a little bridging wire across to that pin you've marked in black, would I need to remove the mod chip and solder it onto the other side of the mod chip on that pin or just try solder it on the back there where the black line is. Thanks for the help, you've been brilliant. I'll try find somewhere to buy that capacitor. This looks correct to me? https://nz.element14.com/panasonic/eeufm0j152/cap-1500-f-6-3v-20/dp/1219448?st=6.3V

Ok, I popped the bonnet and what I found inside wasn't good news I don't think. There doesn't seem to be a wire going to the front. And I found a capacitor that looks very suspect. I guess I would need to replace it, I don't know where to buy one from though and what I'd look for to buy it, I'm no electronics guru. It is strange about that capacitor though as it can't be too important as the xbox works fine, I can play games all day on it with no issues. Here are some photos, the mod chip has wires going all over the place. The dodgy capacitor looks the same as these ones in the photo above... Here is the dodgy one. I have a bag of these capacitors in my Xbox bits and pieces collection, are they the right thing? they look very different.

I noticed the Xboxdash.xbe was 199 bytes and the one in the archive was much bigger, I tried to copy it over top but FlashFXP said it couldn't copy it so I deleted the 199 byte one and FTP'd the other one over and that worked, now I can use UnleashX to go to MS Dashboard and the MS Dashboard works, That solved me not being able to go in there and change settings. It hasn't fixed the rebooting problem though. The other interesting thing is if I do the reboot combination from within UnleashX it reboots fine, if I do it from in a game then it does the orange light for 20 seconds then green light and no signal. Interesting it works fine from inside UnleashX only. This is my drive now after deleting the 199 byte file and replacing it with the real one. After replacing that file I can still boot into UnleashX fine, but the power on to MS Dash still doesn't work. Only enabling the mod chip gives a signal on the screen. Perhaps my TSOP is buggered up? It's never been flashed as far as I'm aware as the Xbox went from stock to mod chip, I got a guy that was doing them for lots of people from his shop in Brisbane/Australia to do it for me.

Okeydokey. Some more information. If I just press the power button to turn the Xbox on, the light goes orange for about 20 seconds, then green. No signal on the screen. If I do the button combination to reboot the same thing happens, instantly I get no signal on the TV and the light goes orange for about 20 seconds then green with no signal. If I try turn the Xbox on with the eject button the light cycles between red and orange and no signal on the screen. The only way to turn it on is to hold the power for 2 seconds and it works fine into UnleashX Here is the contents of my C:, I've also copied the Xbox C contents from the supplied archive over the top of C and it made no difference to the problem. So does it sound like my only solution is to pop the hood and remove that wire from the front of the XBox and put it under a motherboard screw so the chips always on? Thanks for any help, I'll wait for replies before doing that hardware mod as I'm a bit scared of doing it