big F

You know I was joking……….

WTF you mean all these years I have removed the capacitors, and I should have left them in place to rot the boards……………Dang, coulda been doing something more productive.

This is looking so buff!! hopefully they will give a good price and not try to scalp you. I have a link on one of my computers for a company who do laser cut work and if I remember correctly they quote via the cad files and the overall size of plastic sheet needed. They are States side but we’re still cheaper for me in Blighty,than the locals. I can get it and post here if needed.

I have exactly one of those, they make life so much easier.

I may give this a crack. Seems I have everything needed in my stock and workshop tools. Just been using my Altera to reprogram my Amiga Vampire after a botched firmware update.

Tek Nemesis, just interested how you set the box up, with no DVD. Do you just temp put a drive in via a standard Ide and ide to sata adaptor.

That may be why mine stopped working then. The 90’s-2000’s really fuelled the start of our throw away society.

The Commodore Amiga also sufferers with dodgy caps. Although 90% of it is with the later models namely the A600, A1200 and A4000. All of which use the same crappy bean can style surface-mount caps. They like the clock caps leak and destroy the board. The earlier Amigas only have issues with the rechargeable batteries used in the clock circuit, as they all used conventional boards with no surface mount parts. That said some seem to benefit with a change of caps to newer ones, presumably new high quality caps are tighter on the tolerances and added to the old caps maybe slipping in capacity or voltage makes a difference. All my collection of OGs have where applicable had the cap removed because they mostly were showing signs of leaking or had. Except one, that for the last Ten years has been stored in the loft, which cycles between barmy hot in the summer and damp/freezing in the winter. The cap on it as of today is mot leaking. I had simply forgotten about that Xbox needing to be looked at. Go figure on that.

I think the splice is probably holding the power sense closed so the box power state is forced on. check the traces for the power buttons on the main board. The intermittent nature of the buttons, if you tested it unplugged from the main board is not desirable but not likely to be the cause. could be a simple as a dry joint on the power board socket, or another component in that line.

Thanks as always for sharing your progress. Been looking at dirtypcbs.com as an Alt to the other pcb sites I use, so read the about us page. LOL worth a read, its mostly all about what they do and how but the bit at the bottom will tickle anyone who works in a customer facing industry. Basically its what we all want to say but cant or we would get sacked.

You will get away with that kind of power down for a while but long term its not good, if you catch the hard-drive in a write cycle when you pull the plug, it can and will eventually lead to data corruption. best option follow the traces from the power button back onto the board, you'll probably find another track thats damaged.

You can follow the trace back further if needed. The wire you need is kynar wire. It’s small enough to fit into vias. It solders easy and can be bought cheaply on eBay. A couple of pounds dollars etc for enough for several xboxes.

SS_Dave that case looks like the generic Media PC cases that were available a few years ago. I have a full size PC board one. They look great and just blend into the lounge set up of your average audiophiles house.

E-DA from eBay. I have an Ender3 and have a lot of filament, some of the expensive stuff and some from companies who make printers. This stuff being the cheapest I have ever bought I just though might be good enough for prototyping and things that I wanted quick etc. Turns out that it prints really nicely and has a really smooth finish, and the colours are crisp. Also bonus works using the same setting the really expensive stuff I have uses. I ended up buying several rolls and will buy more once I run out.

Looks good, to me. I got some PLA+ in silver and it prints lovely, cheap too.

Nice will check it out

Its a real loss to the community x-s was my goto site and so many shortcuts and guides I had went there. Never had the sense to offline copy anything as I just thought it would always be there.

Solder paste is only usable with a reflow oven or hot air reworkstation. a soldering iron will get the paste too hot and it will fail. Also the paste is not designed to bridge gaps. much better to use kynar wire and just brigde from components or vias

That is soooooo slick.

If you own a soldering iron you should be equipped to do this. Just look on youtube for videos of track repair. Yours is not as bad as some. It can be fiddly but with the right tip its do able.

If the trace has not gone completely you should be ok I’ve had ones where there is still a connection but it acts intermittently as the current resistance is to high, build it back up with solder or conductive pen, fixes it. If the path is completely broken or gone you need to solder in a replacement link wire. If you use a pen you can use nail polish to seal the copper and pen to stop it corroding. Choice of colour is up to you.

Amen to that of all my mod chips I think i loaded more than one bios on maybe two of them, just because I could. Never used the feature though since the days where you could use one on Xbox Live.

I have a 1.2 that had some damage from the clock cap, did the same till I cleaned it and put some solder onto the damaged track. Have the same problems with Amigas the clock caps on them are in some cases 30 years old now and literally eat the board. Best thing you can to with both is chop them off both will do fine with out a RTC function.

$18 each recently I was buying them for about £3 each on eVilbay and Aliexpress. Aliexpress has them still and they cost a few bucks/pounds each. Fine if you dont mind a wait of a week or two. Search for the following and you should see them for a fiver. Direct Reading Decoding Chip Replacement For Xbox Aladdin XT PLUS2 XT+4032 I bought mine for my 1.6 boxes and planned to put them in at some point. The blerb says 1.6 and 1.6b are compatible currently removing mod chips from non 1.6 boxes and just TSOPing instead.

My first xbox is still running an IDE drive and the original mod chip. Left it that way for nostalgia. Still spongy. So who knows with that. You can still screw it together though.