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big F

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Everything posted by big F

  1. big F
    But all important how much noise do they generate. We have fans at work that levitate themselves off a desk as the provide so much push, but are easily double the noise of a “standard” equivalent fan. For most the reason to fit a Noctura or similar tuned fan is its a compromise against noise. For someone running an SSD and only playing OEM games it should get that warm. It will also depend on where you live, as ambient air temps are either going to help or hinder.
  2. big F
    No dumb questions here, you are on a voyage of discovery. There is a lot of knowledge here on this forum so ask away. Yes they use up one of the controller ports, but if you go wireless controllers, I doubt you'll want to go back.
  3. big F
    I have never used conductive paint the solder points are simple enough. As far as longevity. I did a TSOP back when the OG people first realised you could TSOP it and its still fine. That box just runs as a iso back up of my games and runs an old EvoX dash board from the early 2ks. When you TSOP you dont need to lock the drive so no HD will be needed. It was only necessary back in the day for using the MS dash from boot and for going on XboxLive. Personally i have not locked a drive in years, and have been know to just wipe the key on the eprom, just because i can. There are many reasons to mod chip but playing OEM games is not really one TBF it takes more effort to mod chip than TSOP, and you need to buy/make a mod chip. TSOP only needs around 3 solder points and a soft mod game save and compatible game and the replacement HD once you have TSOP’d. theres som many disc images out there that will boot an os and install from the DVD that will only cost you the dvd to burn it to.
  4. big F
    Ok Im sure that others will make comments also, but here goes. 100% unless its a rev 1.6 remove the clock cap it WILL eat the board. The 1.6 has other concerns in that area but is less likely to kill the board as dramatically as the pre 1.6’s can. If you only intend to play retail games, no point in going with a Ram upgrade as no retail games will even notice the upgrade and many wont run. First thing though would be mod chip update, either TSOP or chip depending on the board you have. A basic TSOP will be fine for Retail game playing. Anything not a 1.6 can be TSOP’s so no need to buy a chip. For retail only play a mod chip does nothing extra for you. 100%. Next thing is bin off the factory HD, most are going to be done by now and all were 8Gb or 10Gb so are tiny. If going with a PATA drive then you can fill your boots, but PATA never really went much above 1Tb IIRC. Much better is to get a SATA to PATA adaptor (Startech seems to be the better choice but cost more) then just plug in a SATA drive as Big as you can afford. Set the drive to use any non MS dashboard using the mod chip or TSOP. I rarely bother to wire up modchips with the ability to be turned off as its 100% not needed and the MS dash is pure nostagia and. Wont play any ISO’s so is next to useless. Those few mods will give you a box that can store all the ISO’s of games you own and give you the ability to play them without using the janky DVD drives which to be fair will be the weak point as they are never that reliable. The nice to have mods are :- After that you can go with a Noctura fan upgrade to give you better cooling and less noise. Controversially you can replace the CPU GPU Coolers thermal pads with new TIM as they are all old and harden with age and become less effective. Remove the DVD and replace with a second drive for more space and more ISO’s Or forgo the DVD drive and replace it with a extra cooling fan or just leave the space for extra air. You can also do a slim mod and loose that extra head room making the OG look more contemporary HDMI mod The amount of TV’s that support Component video each year gets less and less . Where as HDMI support is not going any where for now. Various methods are out there some quick and some more involved. Nice to have is a wireless controller mod as it opens up the ability to use XB360 controllers and not be teathered with cables etc. The conversion can be bought as a fit yourself kit or also as a build you self a-fair, but either way its very good. Hope that helps to start things off.
  5. big F
    It would be interesting to find out if this ever made it to any form of production or beta testing.
  6. big F
    Yes there were pictures pushed about prior to the launch in 99/00 ish
  7. big F
    It’s worth looking up any old routers you have lots of them are WRT hackable.
  8. big F
    Loving your work.
  9. big F
    Never tried it but It should be do-able. An easier way would be to use a Linksys WRTG’d. switch. They are not expensive to buy and the hack is simple to do. You wont get WiFi 6 but it doesnt matter as the OG is only expecting to see 100mb anyway. I used one in our old house as networking upstairs was a no go, so it was used to provide wired connectivity to the Xbox and PS3.
  10. big F
    Maybe I should sell my copy of Halo 3, the one with the really big box and the figures in, its un opened as I bought 3 of them. Once I have paid the mortgage off I could quit work.
  11. big F
    Well fairly sure if the engineers name ever came up, there would be a price on their head. Maybe not in the, bring em in warm or cold kinda way. But every manufacturer effected would be gunning and media outlets would join the feeding frenzy that would result.
  12. big F
    Only problem with that is it effected devices built before 1999, as shown by the thousands of Commodore A1200, A600 and A4000 that were damaged from it they were the only devices that had the Caps that caused it. Add to that TV’s and car stereos for example from the late 80’s. I wonder if someone was being economic with the truth the potential liability for that could be enormous to say the least. Or that the supposedly ok mixture placed in those caps was just as rubbish just that it took a few more years to come out. It that is the case the our Xboxes will eventually be next.
  13. big F
    Looks like the TSOP is dud or more likely blank, could be that way after the previous owner tried to flash it maybe. Once you are up and running you could try and flash the on board chip and see if it takes a bios. That will prove one way or the other.
  14. big F
    Deffo would like to know more, never bothered to find out why, just presumed that it was down to crap manufacture and age, added to manufacturers thinking that all the products would be in the bin before anyone knew.
  15. big F
    Seen a few laptops suffer the same when they get the same damage. In each case cleaning and a couple of component changes fixed all.
  16. big F
    Anything thats not a 1.6 board can be flashed without the need to ever install a mod chip. In fact its easier, less soldering nothing to buy, if you have one of the softmod games and the game save needed you are already 75% there. I flash most of mine that way just because once the soldering is done you just put it back together, load the game softmod then push the flash from there. All thats needed after that is a harddrive swap to give you more space. If you dont need it you can just screw it back together…. Job done. The only reason you need a chip is if you are using a 1.6. Or plan to use some of the more specialist functions a modded box can do. just playing backed up games or emulating old consoles and arcade cabs is not a reason to do a full mod chip mod. That requirement died when the OG could no longer go on XboxLive. I only do it now if someone asks for it or Im feeling nostalgic.
  17. big F
    I had an eprom fail years back, bought a lead to pull the eproms without the need to remove them from the board. Was able to pull image from another board that was faulty and reprogram the one that dropped its programing.
  18. big F
    Yes if you can wear at least latex style gloves just to stop any fibres. TBF I dont always but really should do. You wont always get a glass splinter but you will sooner or later.
  19. big F
    Get yourself a fibre glass pen and some isopropyl (rubbing alcohol) clean the mask off the area and you should be able to see if the traces are broken. Once ok (fixed or otherwise) coat them over with some nail polish, colour is your choice. That will seal them and prevent rusting.
  20. big F
    Is just me or do you all see the name Minebea and hear it in you head in a pirate voice.
  21. big F
    The voltages are with in tolerance. From what you have said it sounds like the board on the DVD drive has a fault. Its one of those times where a spare drive might be the answer as repairing those boards can be a pain in ass. if you are able to install a mod chip that will help you with booting without the dvd to at least test the rest of the system. Normally I would say just mod the on board chip but as you cant boot etc thats going to be harder than fitting a cheap mod chip.
  22. big F
    You used to be able to buy the laser modules complete for many of the DVD drive but as the technology is not so main stream now there are not so many places selling them. Never tried to flash the bios on one of the drives, only ever did this via the software on computer for a working drive, supplied by the manufacturer. Phillips used to do this for example. With regards to source material for the repair of the laser assembly, i think the lack of videos is probably due to people just buying new units and the past availability of repair parts. If you can find the schematics for the drive then you may have a better idea on what each resistor and other components are supposed to be, Google search or the manufacturers website should be able to help out.
  23. big F
    As its a V1 its probably a Thompson drive and the belts on these seem to be more prone to retirement than the others. If you can power it up via the eject button and the draw open without juddering or sticking then the belt should be ok. Double check your soldering with a multimeter just to make sure its correct. Volt check the out puts on the PSU, be careful with the mains on as theres a few points on the PSU which are at mains potential and a few others that can equally give you a sizeable whack.
  24. big F
    All of those things are potential issues, and at least one will be the cause. I have seen a few where it was more than one issue. Not wanting to put you off, but as Dave has alluded to if you have no experience using a soldering iron, its not just a case of picking one up and giving it a go. You can do that but your success rate is going to be very low. Most of the components are surface mount so you need a small precision tip, 99% of the irons you can buy from the hardware store will be large tips! Which are totally unsuitable, for most work except soldering cables and large component work. Best suggestion from someone who was apprentice trained in electronics, and spent literal months doing the same exercises over and over just to learn certain techniques, before I was even let loose near any actual electronics. Get your self an iron, and some decent flux and solder, watch a few youtube videos on how to do it, get some junk electronics from the curb, junk shop or where ever people dump electronics in you country. Practice on the junk, safe in the knowledge that when you mess up, and you will, it isnt killing anything you treasure. Basically practice , practice, practice. You can get to a reasonable skill level quickly by learning this way. Once you are doing ok. Get yourself a decent iron and good solder and flux and you good to go.
  25. big F
    Serviced quite a few P3 boards that had cap bulge like that in the day. 99% still worked fine, and were in for other issues. Always seemed to be the ones that surround the CPU die. Didnt matter the make of board always the same. Its like they were universally under spec’d. My thinking is the bench line specs supplied to the OEM’s from Intel were a little off. It wouldnt be thefirst time and certainly has not been the last.

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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