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  1. Today
  2. Nice! Yeah the KotOR games really were great. I liked Republic Commando too though it was a shooter type and there’s always Star Wars Battlefront. Beyond Good and Evil,Full Spectrum Warrior, Crimson Skies, and the Evil Dead games were also fun. For sports games I’d say two of my favorites were ncaa football (especially dynasty mode) and Rugby 2006.
  3. No worries, man. This is actually not my first time to own an Xbox. Back in 2009 I picked up a used one for $50 just to play both KOTORS. Since then I've played through the first one roughly 10 times, and The Sith Lords a few times. They're still 2 of my personal GOATS. Also, played through most of Jade Empire, but couldn't get past the Etheral Realm part late in the game. I'd love to give it another go one of these days. I've heard good things about Brute Force and it is on my list, as is Red Dead Revolver.
  4. I knew this would happen eventually. I am so stoked. Thank you @Ryzee119 for working on this and releasing it. Thank you to all those involved. Your work is incredible and impressive. Thank you so much.
  5. https://github.com/Ryzee119/hawk
  6. Yesterday
  7. It’s a Samsung. Also, as I was playing a game, the drive started to make weird sounds, and the music stopped. I had to take out the game before it crashed. I don’t have Grease, but I do have Isopropyl Alcohol. I also have compressed air. I didn’t really do I cleaning, so I’ll try and do that tomorrow morning. Thanks!
  8. You probably already know these but I’ll mention them anyway. Lol. Star Wars Knights of the Old Republic 1 and 2 were great games as well. There’s also Brute Force, the Prince of Persia trilogy, and Red Dead Revolver (though GUN is probably the better of the two). These aren’t all rpg types but just a list of some fun games. Figured I wouldn’t throw a ton out there all at once. Lol
  9. It’s possible the tray is misaligned. As to the squeaking that could be solved by proper alignment but you may also need to very lightly apply some lithium grease to the rails. Usually just cleaning everything out inside (dust, etc) from the tracks will do the trick on noise. Do you know which model drive you have?
  10. I had a bunch of stuff in my cart on their website and I backed out when they wanted $40+ for shipping.
  11. My apologies for replying to a 4-year old thread. Would've been nice if you could've neaten the traces instead of making them look crooked, but its a good 1:1 near identical clone nonetheless.
  12. Noticed a werid issue with my DVD Drive. Besides it getting stuck, sometimes the DVD drive goes to far out. So when it goes back in, it makes a horrible squewking noise. I tried replacing the belt, and while it did fix it not getting stuck, it still goes too far out and squeaks when it goes back in. Any help?
  13. Last week
  14. I moved to France and I don't have a transformer of power to step down to 110v. I have a PC ATX PSU with 16amps on 3.3, 5v, and 12v. There is also a +5vsb. Can I just match the voltages from the original PSU (delta and functional) from the ATX PSU? Does 1.6b have 3.3v or 5v standby? I really don't mind if I have to power the Xbox on and off from the ATX PSU itself and I don't mind that the supply will sit outside of the box. So can I skip the power STB and OK? Are there other concerns about connecting an ATX PSU other than non matching pinouts? My ATX PSU is a DSP-220U B-3A In France I am having a hard time finding a 240v PSU without having to buy a whole console which is a bit pricy. I could get a transformer, but I don't trust the ones I see on the market that are not huge black boxes. My Xbox: 1.6b (xcaliber video encoder with hynix ram) Xecuter 3 modded with X3CP 2TB SATA HDMI via Nintendo Wii adapter
  15. Good ideas. I removed the cap from the circuit and intensity didn't change. I was wondering if it was possibly failing and becoming a short. I will grab a toothbrush and clean up the connector. I'm not sure why I didn't think of that. I have a new cap and SPDIF port on the way. The SPDIF port was very worn out from decades of use anyway. I don't have any high intensity LEDs around to experiment with unfortunately. I do have an old PC SPDIF bracket but didn't really feel like desoldering it as that port won't fit well with the XBox adapter anyway (I have it for an old nForce MCP-D motherboard ).
  16. On 1.6 consoles, RGB Scart (no video) , S-video (noise) , composite (noise and color artifacts) Only Component is working properly, for CRT afficionados EvolutionX M8+ is still a goto bios This is Only affecting 1.6 , my other boxes are smooth with Cerbios (ssds , UDMA5 all the jazz) , but the 1.6 is only revision that does proper RGB so it would be nice to have it working
  17. Had I waited just a couple days, I would have saved myself the effort of designing this pico zero pcb I ordered just a couple days before the "official" one was posted on GitHub . Made it according to the schematic for the regular pico so it uses different pins than the "official" one and I didn't add any resistors. Works wonderfully using the regular pico image, with a mayflash magic ns I already had as a receiver for an xbox one controller. Only problem is that I can't seem to get rumble working with this config which is probably some compatibility issue with the mayflash adapter. I'll have to test it wired to confirm. Now to solder a few more of these and order those usb c cables!
  18. That capacitor is just to smooth power goes into the SPDIF port. It has nothing to do with the actual signal itself. Start by cleaning the AVIP cable and port connections. It's possible you have some dust causing poor contact. Try connecting a generic high intensity red LED between the outer legs of the existing SPDIF port and directing that into your SPDIF cable. If that works but the port does not, it's the SPDIF port burning out. Also try using the SPDIF output from the xbox to another device like a cheap Cmedia CM6206LX USB sound card or Turtle beach DSS. Try another device with SPDIF audio out to your current sound system (again cheap CM6206LX sound card is great for this).
  19. Thanks for the tips. I will look over it again. It is of course possible the cabling has hidden damage too. But all the visible wiring looks ok. The optical port is rather worn out though. It had a broken solder joint and the little door barely closes. I wonder if an electrical arc from a broken solder joint could damage it. The port connection also has a lot of play in it. I dug around Digikey and found a replacement emitter assembly that looks remarkably similar to the original, and also bought a replacement cap. We'll see what happens!
  20. This is causing some memories to surface. After playing with these prebuilt releases from around the web, and finding IGR non-working, I looked around more and found the github with python patcher: https://github.com/gaasedelen/titan I patched an original m8 Plus myself and the patch itself is what disables IGR. I don't think you can load the final patched builts into EVTool.
  21. Sorry, no ini. I was mixed up. With EVTool, you couldn't enable IGR to work?
  22. I didn't have any INI in use. I think I tried EVTool on it. Actually I think I even tried taking the original m8 Plus and patching it myself and the patch caused IGR to be disabled.
  23. It may have been a non-standard button combo. Or more likely, or hard-coded off with EVtools when patching.
  24. These 128MB EVOX ROM modifications. I think they are based on m8 plus? I tried a few of the UDMA builds for non-HDMI systems on my v1.0 and IGR wasn't functional. I also found some talk elsewhere about IGR not working with it.
  25. @tiertop Expanding upon Marty's post here, it may be possible that there is a short or something fishy about grounding that is causing attenuation/dimming in the LED or blocking the data signal from reaching the transmitter entirely. Definitely look at ALL the wiring in there.
  26. There is not currently an "open-source" or alternative solution to this adapter (communicator). Although with all the Halo 2-ness that is happening, a solution is being explored by multiple people. I know that alternative sources for the existing supported chipset are being explored as well as possibly other solutions. A generic audio adapter will not work, as far as I am aware.
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