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  2. Thanks for the reply Dave! I appreciate the info on those components. I did check all the pins to ground, and double checked the brown pin now and still got nothing. All the electrolytic capacitors don’t appear to be bulging or leaking, and there is no evidence of burns anywhere. The motherboard also seems to be in good condition, no leaking or bulging capacitors. I am very sure the problem is in the power supply since I’m not getting standby output. I can confirm that there is voltage getting to all the electrolytic capacitors, but not to the pins on the wire harness.
  3. It seems to be wired properly... (attached picture is the reference I'm using)
  4. Yes, I have the 80-way cable, but I didn't modify the IDLE of the HD, because I'm going to buy a new HD BLUE, and leave the GREEN for my computer
  5. Are you using an 80-wire 40-pin high-speed IDE cable? If not, doing so fixes many with an error 13 screen that still try to use the stock IDE cable. Also, green drives need to have their green / eco features (IDLE timeout/spindown) disabled. WD Blues are what I last used to upgrade the hard drive in an Xbox - 2TB CMR (Conventional Magnetic Recording) version of the drive with 64KB cache instead of SMR (Shingled Magnetic Recording) version with 256KB cache.
  6. If you only plan to buy 500 gb drive, why not go directly to SSD? Lifetime shouldn’t be a worry, especially since Stellar adds TRIM. Price is the same, but performance is better.
  7. It sounds like the daughter board ( The small vertical board at the front ) is not plugged in properly Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.
  8. The resistors in the 1st pic are 1meg ohm 105 One then a zero then 5 zeros= 1,000,000 ohm The 2nd pic the 205 = 2meg that 2,000,000ohm some cheap meters may struggle to read that especially in circuit The blue parts a surge protection and a meant to test open circuit and when they get a voltage spike above there rating they will go short circuit I suspect the PSU is from a 1.0-1.1 and you should test for the 3.3 volt standby at the 12 pin power plug (Brown wire) Also as it's a 1.1 I would also check for trace damage from a leaking clock capacitor Or just add wire links that join the two blue marks and the 2 purple marks I also highly recommend you post some pics of your motherboard as well.. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.
  9. Can confirm that I did get the goods. Figured someone else would've snatched them up before me.
  10. All working now... It was definitely something to do with using the correct version of XBPartitioner I didnt say anything at the time, as theres quite a bit more to the whole story and I was trying to be brief, but I had been using v1.0, as I was having trouble starting v1.3 V1.3 Is very slow to start,which made me think It wasnt working but I just needed to be patient and let It load. The G partition had not formatted, and thats why It wasnt showing 64k clusters, so I went back and formatted it and it Is now displaying as It should Thankyou very much for your help...I appreciate It, as Ild beeen playing around with this for well over a month solid, with no success Obviously, I just needed a small push In the right direction. Cheers
  11. No, okay. these things I have. It's because I'm going to change mine which is a GREEN unit for a blue one and I wanted to know if Sata III (Desktop Harddrive) Blue it's compatible
  12. No, not directly, the Xbox has an IDE interface that connects to the hard drive and DVD drive. You need an IDE-to-SATA adapter to connect a SATA drive to the Xbox's IDE interface. Suggested adapters include Startech's IDE2SAT2 or DeLock's 62510. You will also need a 24" long high-speed 80-wire 40-pin IDE cable to use instead of the stock 40-wire 40-pin IDE cable.
  13. Sounds like bad downloads if that’s how you obtained the other games. Either that or you’re not using the correct file type for the download.
  14. My vote would be to install the chip in the 1.6 and just do a TSOP flash on the 1.0. You’re saving money and accomplishing the same goal in the end. SD card readers are neat and fun to say you’ve got one, but the price on the SD cards is stupid for anything worth your while. The adapter in the link above, says it only supports up to 32GB. If you’re trying to pimp out your Xbox on a budget, I wouldn’t go that route, but that’s just my personal opinion. if you’re just looking for a modest size HDD to store a few games, I have several larger IDE drives that would not require a SATA adapter or 80 wire cable. DM me if interested.
  15. Well I got my xenium chipset. I broke my weller on another project so I had to wait for a new iron to come. I'm hoping to find time tomorrow night to put the chip in. This is going in my v1.0 Xbox. Any tips? I've also been going through my old hdds to potential fit one of those in rather than buying a new. I may have found a good sized one finally.
  16. Are you sure about this? this is only for kernel debugging and firmware recovery if the modchip somehow got bricked. There shouldn't be a need to use the USB port in most use cases. StellarOS is already baked in to the modchip, no further work is required based on what I am reading at https://makemhz.com/blogs/news/announcing-project-stellar-plus-more
  17. So he's a virgin? Can I install from the Micro SD slot? Or do you need some kind of digital programmer for that?
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