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HDShadow last won the day on May 6

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About HDShadow

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  1. So only applicable to the v1.6 then, so in this case doesn't apply. That solves that matter - thanks.
  2. Going back to the chip D0 thing whilst I'm waiting for the Kynar wire I was going through the advice here and in my Aladdin chip thread about wiring the 'easier' D0 point on the bottom of the MB and grounding it to a screw surround rather than the D0 pad on the chip. I've read since that if do you that it can "strain" the Xbox and reduce its life so its better to use the D0 point on the chip. What I was wondering is making it neater by using the easier D0 point hidden under the MB but hide the wire to the chip's D0 point by passing it through one of the unused LPC holes. I am thinking it would be sensible to put some slack in the wire so the chip could be disconnected without needing to cut that wire or de-solder it either end. So is there any problem routing it through one of those free holes or using a couple of inches more wire for that reason?
  3. You'll have to provide more information about OSSC (Open Source Scan Converter?). What dashboard? What version Xbox? Region/region setting? Games played from original disc, backup disc or installed? Correct region disc. Cable type: Composite, Component, RGB SCART, S-Video? Resolution and format settings? Rocky5's XBSMT uses virtual eeprom I believe which means any video setting changes will revert on reboot. Obvious thing to check is whether the problem occurs with a direct Xbox to TV cable connection ie. not through a OSSC. That has to be the primary suspect. The only time I've seen anything display like that was one of the GTA games (Vice City?) and the solution I remember was to change the Xbox screen format setting from WS to Normal (4:3). Tenchu RFD and I think Darkwatch do not support WS (there are patches but only applicable to HDD installed games or backup discs) so swapping the screen display format is the first thing to try.
  4. Yes, Chimp 261812 is used to clone your existing HDD to the new one in exactly the same way you probably did with the 120GB.
  5. HDShadow

    Scummvm 1.4.1

    There is plenty of ScummVM stuff Xbox friendly and entirely legal too like Broken Sword that can be found direct via the ScummVM web site. As ^ said, and so so long as it supports v1.4.1, the ROM should work OK and if it doesn't say so you can at least try it out as finding ROMS for ScummVM is not difficult. Broken Sword plays well but missing cut scenes unless you use an addon pack. The latest version of that pack requires ScummVM 1.5.0 or higher but there is an older one that is still available. Broken Sword II is supported as is the unofficial BS 2.5.
  6. Even if kwyn can boot Splinter Cell or whatever was used for the softmod if E:\ was reformatted those exploit/installer game saves aren't going to be there any more either. Chipping is of course one solution but I was thinking a hot-swapping solution might work too. Never tried that myself so you'd need advice from someone who knows the ins and outs of that.
  7. That 'distinct' Thomson double spin up disc drive check noise at start or reboot I forgotten about until yesterday when I had to swap the one I have into another Xbox. Suddenly I remembered why I had retired that Xbox from regular use. It always bothered me that sound, I thought there was something wrong with it despite being 100% reliable and not particularly noisy in use. Not until many years later did I read it was normal for the Thomson; still annoying.
  8. That's what I understood too but surely if C:\ has been reformatted there should be nothing on it, no original MS dash files or anything else unless kwyn manually reinstalled them after the formatting. E:\ likewise. Yet original discs are booting. I was not aware that an original game disc would boot on an unmodded or softmodded Xbox just with empty HDD I thought it at least required some minimum C:\ drive files even if the main GUI was missing/damaged. But perhaps reformatting in this case means something different.
  9. The pin header I was always going to use; it is just its easier to fit it to the v1.1 because the LPC holes are free of the solder that blocks them on the v1.0. As said, wimping out this time but if it all goes OK I might try chipping the v1.6 next. I am also going to use the larger D0. I do want the LED to turn off when I turn the Xbox off. With a v1.1 does that mean I do not need to do that trace cut and the additional R1 to pin 9 connection? Also looking back at KaosEngineer's posts I'm a bit confused about which pins on the 12 x pin header I need to remove for a v1.1. He said it was unnecessary to remove all 4 pins (as shown in the YT video) but I realise now that was just in relation to the v1.6 Xbox. Which pin or pins can be or more importantly need to removed for a v1.1?
  10. I was just wondering if an installer disc like AID or HeXEn (DVD-R/ImgBurn) might cold boot and that would be another option if using Splinter Cell or whatever game was originally used for the softmod doesn't work.
  11. Its interesting that an original game disc still boots if both C and E drives were reformatted. I suppose it depends on the reformatting tool used.
  12. I really do not like using a Xbox without a working DVD drive. It is so useful, particularly if you're being honest and installing Xbox games from their original discs using DVD2Xbox. So many utility discs are useful to be able to boot too: HeXEn, AID, Rocky5's Extras and on. In the last six weeks I've had two Xbox Samsung 605F disc drives die on me, well not quite dead in one case but the other I'd bought as part of a 'for spare parts' Xbox and it worked for about 10 minutes then refused to boot any disc. Took it apart and the ribbon cable from laser carriage was not just detached, part of the plastic ribbon locking mechanism had actually broken. Irreparable. The second, another used one, partially died today and I'm still not sure why. It has always been dodgy, double ejecting. Done all the usual things to try to get it working consistently but now part of the plastic tray eject mechanism actually appears to have broken. Again took the thing apart so I could test a disc in it directly and it momentarily starts to spin but then stops. Laser does comes on for a few seconds at start with a disc of any sort the tray just reports as empty and now. obviously, can't be ejected. Likely Irreparable. It is still recognised as attached so the softmod still boots OK but as I'm now down one fully working disc drive for my otherwise working Xboxes. I'm getting twitchy and seriously thinking of getting a replacement.
  13. This is a very interesting and timely post about the 80 wire IDE cables being sold currently on places like Ebay and Amazon. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HDD-IDE-cable-for-Ultra-ATA-hard-drives-CD-DVD-wih-ATA-IDE-40-PIN-CONNECTOR/333009722992?hash=item4d88ed1e70:g:KhUAAOSwsZhcONeY A couple of months ago I bought two 'identical' 80 wire 24" yellow IDE cables with blue, grey, black connectors but only tested one of them. That works fine connecting black to Xbox MB, grey to DVD drive and blue to HDD. However today I tried using the the other one in exactly the same way and I kept on getting LED flashing green/red and eventually an error 09 screen. That's, a bit unusual, supposedly a HDD kernel error. I knew there was nothing wrong with the HDD so I rechecked the connectors, all good, tried again, same thing. But when I went back to the previous 40 wire cable it worked fine as did the other new 80 wire cable I'd tested. Bad cable? Well yes but on a whim I reconnected it blue to MB, grey to DVD and black to HDD, not easy because the cable connector spacing makes it impossible to use in the desired way. The damned thing worked fine! Those cables may look identical but clearly they're wired differently. Also I'd mention that whilst they look the business the top half of each connector is actually not secured to the lower part. Its just pressed together not locked in any way. So when trying to get the connectors out of the often tightly fitted and awkwardly placed Xbox DVD drive for a Chimp cable swap you have to be very carefully where you grip the connector.
  14. I've decided to wimp out on using the v1.0. I had a look at the LPC and did not fancy de-soldering every hole. But I have a v1.1 too I bought used with a dodgy disc drive (605F) which has now given up the ghost so I've had to swap in a replacement one from another working Xbox. Didn't want to do that but for me there's no point in fitting a chip in a Xbox that is not fully functional. Anyway that's a side issue. My question is are there any differences fitting the Aladdin chip in a v1.1 ie. that info about cutting the trace and and wiring R1 to pin 9 or the pin-header stuff?
  15. Thanks for that, very useful. So it is the left screw that needs to be adjusted. The equally important thing is the multi-meter reading points that should be used.

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