SS_Dave

Can you post a pic of the top ( component side ) of the PSU? Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing

With the PSU plugged in the Xbox test for a 3.3 volt on the purple wire and you should also have around 3 volt on the grey wire. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing

Might be a good idea to post some pics of the 2 links on the board Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

If you save a backup of your Xbox eeprom from the Xbox to your PC you can now use Fatxplorer3.0 Beta to make a bootable hard drive and it can also lock the hard drive from the eeprom you saved from the Xbox. Here is a tutorial https://www.hazeno.com/guides/fatxplorer-2tb-preload I means no cloning or hot swapping the HDD. OR better yet is fit a mod chip or re-flash the onboard bios and then you don't need to worry about locking the hard drive or having a backup of the eeprom. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

Looks like the TV is the issue as your Projector and laptop don't have the same problem when displaying the Xbox image. You could rule out the Xbox by testing with a different Xbox. I would replace the all the main filter capacitors next to the heat sink as they filter the 1.5 volt supply for the CPU/GPU, Capacitors can be faulty even when they look good. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

I hope you have deep pockets as getting a X3 chip is not going to be cheap. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

What happens when you power on with the eject button after the Xbox has been unplugged for a minute ? Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

Try putting a link across the 2 pads here had see what happens. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

There is no 1.5 version The 1.2-1.4 have the same power supply and the 1.6 has the same 20 pin plug as the 1.2-1.4 but in not compatible. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

Where is your D0 wire or link? Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

I just tested a random 1.6 here that has a Delta PSU The orange wire all have 5 volt as long as the AC is connected. With the 20 pin plug disconnected I get 0.1 volt on the PowOk and it has 5 volt on the orange wires. It's looking like you may have a dead PSU.. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

My experience with a version 1.6 supply is unless it gets a POW OK ( blue wire) from the mother board within a second or two it shuts down completely ( no 5 volt stand by) What happens if you have your meters black probe on ground ( Black wires in the IDE plug or 20 pin plug or on the metal shield ) and the red probe in the 5 volt ( orange wires 20 pin plug) and the same but have the red probe in blue wire in the 20 pin plug then connect the AC in lead after it's been un-plugged from the mains for 60 seconds. Depending on the multi-meter you should see a a 3 volt on the blue and 5 volt on the orange wires, if you have a slow meter it may not fully reach the reading quick enough but let me know what happens. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

The modchip fitting looks fine and as long as the clock cap is present that's not going to be your issue I would suspect the hard drive or the DVD drive is failing, If you leave it on for a while do you get a error message? Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

The capacitor just under the heat sink clip looks like it's top is just starting to curve upward, when you replace one in that location you need to replace all three. As you say you have not done any soldering don't use you Xbox to learn and in my view you are better off paying some one with experience to replace them. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

I would try replacing the load belt ( Black rubber band looking part at the front of the DVD mech) in the DVD drive 1st, As a test you could try boiling the belt and if it starts working then replace it. The other otion is a DVD drive from another OG Xbox but you might be getting the same problem. I see the clock cap is still in the board and has leaked, You need to remove and clean both sides of the board with 95% or higher ISO and a brush ( Tooth brush is good) In the red hexagon. It is also looking like the 3 filter caps near the heat sink are about to fail. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.