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trencherfield

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trencherfield last won the day on June 27

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  1. You could try the signal conditioner I suppose. Never used one myself. https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1711411471 (not my stuff by the way)
  2. Xbox won't do 480p over scart/RGB. 480i on RGB with maybe 576i on PAL. VGA is something else entirely.
  3. Sounds like you are trying to boot an unlocked hard drive on the stock BIOS. The chip will boot it fine, but you can't boot stock BIOS with an unlocked hard drive, you need to lock it to the console for MS bios to boot it without error. Use Configmagic App or other app to lock it if you want to boot stock BIOS.
  4. Yeah for FPGA we would maybe be looking at the FPGA chip doing the MCPX and GPU since the GPU is only 233MHz. The CPU however is too much, so we would need an intel CPU patching in, preferably of a higher speed of course and with good availability. RAM would be separate also. We are lucky since the Xbox was PC based designed, so it makes it somewhat easier than something like the PS2, which would be a nightmare and just not possible currently. I have the ZX Spectrum Next FPGA (3 clones inc N-GO) and because that's a really old low power computer you can have other cores too. You can also add 'accelerators' too to boards like these. Lots of options.
  5. All gone. Will prolly make a few more shortly. If anyone finds the thread looking for a kit, then just feel free to PM me, saves me listing and updating here. :)
  6. Whilst it would be great to have a new board, it's not really feasible. MCPX chip. Would have to be re-flowed to the new board. Graphics chip. As above. Could possibly adapt the Dev kit card one (rare) or something. Lot of added work and then compatibility issues. Even P3 chips are crazy prices these days. Parts are just a no-go in reality. Probably why he stopped on the board. Best bet would be an FPGA solution, which is the preferred hardware solution over an emulator, which as we know, generally suck to put it bluntly. Now that would be a great board. FPGA, 256MB ram etc etc with an updatable core. OG Xbox V2
  7. You have to for the power eject boards unfortunately as they are short with different ended connectors. The rest are factory crimped, but still need assembly. Utter tedium.
  8. I used to just cut the old molex connector off the Xbox power supply cable and solder the wires directly to the Startech adapter and heatshrink them for a neat finish. Less clutter. But since I have the crimping gear now for making X3's endless cables, I just fit the smaller molex connector for a totally factory look. They are dead cheap, but prolly only worth doing if you do a fair few consoles as you need a crimper tool.
  9. SST flash. Whilst that's an easy 15 minute job for me to lift and flash, I wouldn't recommend it unless you are proficient at SMD work and have the correct tools. But, as originally advised, your option remains to just sell the two drives and get something else. Path of least resistance for you.
  10. 'Grabbed by the Ghoulies' was a laugh. Made by Rare of course.
  11. Also as I said before, there are two OE firmwares for the 8163b from Hitachi/LG. See here ... https://jestineyong.com/obtaining-eeprom-bios-firmware-for-deadflashed-lg-gdr8163b-dvd-rom-drive/
  12. Try either. Depends which flasher you are using and from where.
  13. Here is the Xbox HQ one from the first page (last pictured) on my drive... Download Xbox HQ Special Edition v2.0
  14. 2200uf is 10v (your red) 3300uf is 10v (your green) 470uf is 25v (your blue) ----------------- The ones fitted are correct except the 2200uf & 3300uf are higher voltage rated, which is fine anyway. They will be slightly larger physically.

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