I got a 1.6 Xbox off ebay today. Still works (minus the dvd drive, but I got several spare dvd drives), but the case is absolutely fucked in and out. After taking the controller ports out, I can't even put them back in - all but one of the posts for screws that hold the controller ports in are broken! I can only hold controller port 4 in with the intact post, all the other posts have big chunks broken off.
Is there anything I could rig up to hold the rest of the controller ports down, or bolt it down, or should I just try to find an intact 1.6 case?
I am kind of new/kind of old to the scene, as I have an rev 1.6 Xbox that I bought brand new in 2006, softmodded and installed a 160gb harddrive, which is(was?) limited to 137Gb useable space, copied all my bought games to it, threw in a couple emulators, and then just used it on and off and basically forgot anything involved in the process to the mists of time.
Recently it wouldn't power on, so I replaced the common 5 3300uF caps that were leaking, and it was good to go. My brain noted that the 16 year old IDE hard drive will not run forever, and I should look at upgrading to a SATA configuration.
Due to the time gap, very old versions of software, I have now read so much conflicting information at this point am not sure what to do in 2021.
I no longer have the original drive. I don't appear to have an image of either drive (8gb or 160gb) in any of my backups either. My fuzzy memory says this is bad because of linked keys.
I do not have a PATA usb adaptor, or computer with PATA. I have an Xbox to USB adaptor, but I don't think I have a compatible thumb drive. Based on my research I've ordered the "correct" Startech SATA/PATA adaptor. The existing drive already has an 80 pin cable.
I do have ftp access without issue.
I'm attaching a 2 screenshots of my drive/system info, my questions are:
Is that key in the screenshot all I need? If not what is the best way to go about backing up the drive/board key "Just in case" things go bad.
And is Chimp (https://www.reddit.com/r/originalxbox/wiki/chimp/) still the best way to clone it to a new drive in 2021?
I undoubtedly will have more questions, but backing up is my first priority, and once I have a confirmed backup I will be much more comfortable playing with it, and hopefully updating the various software I have loaded.
Any "critical hints" or gotchas would be appreciated as well.
Listing of materials tested:
OSSC V1.6 Chimeric HDMI Konig component Full RGB AV+optical Composite original Pound (2020) Mcable gaming Mclassic Monster component x400 Monster component x200 Variety of wall chargers and HDMI cables
All the combinations and configurations had tested.
Tested with 4 TV and two Xbox : V 1.6 no modded, V1.0 XBMC ( when it was possible, but no one did consequential differences )
Xbox+Chimeric+Mclassic (green led (alimented wall)) +Mcable gaming (alimented wall).
The monster component x400 was a little better than konig component, and the monster x200 was like composite because the three plugs are video x1 and stereo x2. Not three RGB like I had thinking. Next, I tested all settings of the OSSC expecting upgrade my video with a HDMI solution. The picture was worst than the monster. With the good material, perhaps it's possible. But the OSSC loose always a part of the signal, event it is alimented.
The pound (with mini usb port) was very poor. Yes, it's very better than composite but: Green filter. Not very sharp etc.
But it's wasn't a problem because I had bet all on the Chimeric.
Finaly, I recived the chimeric, and horror, the monster component smashes far more once again , with is colors very realistic and the picture very compatible with the signal source. I pluged the Mcable and the Mclassic, but this changed nothing.
I thinking pass all my life with monster x400.
There was some additionnal issues like horizontal lines "flapping" or noise in the textures.
After to have expected an issus of fabrication, I Shipped an message to Chimeric system. Before to receive a response, I had set up the stuff again, and this is it! It work fine. Mclassic was alimented in the pc port, but we need to put it in the wall. We need to find the perfect Tv setting too because the signal is different of any sources. So the best mode need to be (desatured with wider spectrum. All spectrum of light and colors).
Now it is better than the monster component.
And better than the chimeric only. The stuff do all that it must to do.
But, after that, I upgraded the output video another time with an astuce.
I bought some different wall charger more powerful and the video become consequently much higher.
Now with the good wall charger.
It's a masterpiece.
How setting this Winning combination.
Xbox dashboard- Audio : Use Stereo if you have 2 speakers (or stereo+DTS). Souround + dolby for 5 speakers.
Mclassic: Mode green. Alimented by a wall charger 5v- 1.8 A. Little bit hight or less.
Mcable Gaming: Alimented by a wall charger 5v -2.4 A
Tv(Flat): Here my setting for exemple : Contraste 100, Brillance 63, Couleur 50, Netteté 100, image-ia EF, cats HF, reduc HF
If the TV has more pixels than the video source, zoomed in will not do appear new details in the pictures, but increase the sharpenes and clarity of theirs . See picture 1-2. A higher format TV will provide more sharpeness and natural with this set up. But it's the inverse result with a cheap ultra-HD tv. Picture 3-4.
The winnig TV was : 1080p Panasonic TC-L32U3. Second place : Panasonic TC-L32X5. The two other TV ultra Hd (were very bad) : LG 47LN5750-UH and SAMSUNG UN50TU7000F
The V1.6 xbox, with Panasonic tv and Chimeric, added vertical shadow lines with halo 2 and halo 1 on the sky and on the pale background textures. But nothing else. It run perfectly since 2004.
The V1.0 XBOX XBMC added horizontal artefacts with all the games and emulators. But don't has the precedent problem with the shadow lines. His cd drive works poorly.
The second best set up was : Pound alimented wall (with the same settings and stuff) . Only switch the chimeric by the Pound. For exemple, the set up with Chimeric seem that.
The monster component x400 do the best picture and sound for easy and low budget. And the colors are more natural than the Pound.
Konig: AV component RGB+optical in one. Show details clear. Dont't blur. But did a video quality inferior than Monster x400.
The V1.6 OSSC : With all the settings, in x1 and x2 too, and with two TV, did the signal and the colors loose their intensity. The picture was pale and bleach. And in X1, there was no global difference compared good component (except the previews problems). In x2, the game was pixelised like 2D 1987 games, without degrad. He was made for keep the squarred pixels of old console. He was not made for the Xbox or consoles 480p or more. Audio problems : Not make to transfer the best audio possible because he can not out put the audio by HDMI. To plug somewhere, it need an extra connector because the input is a jack 1/8. and that cause a losing of signal. He is not do for the Xbox or console 480p or more.
Good Generique HDMI cable: Make the stone texture more natural than the mcable gaming, but was less good for the shiny-lustred surfaces and did the picture more pixelised. The mcable gaming did the surfaces that was clear or polish (like water, electricity, and metal) more realistic and upgraded. Halo2 has textures 3d-like based on the details of mapping. So, when I added extra signal boost with the wall chargers, and used the mcable gaming, it was like if new textures was appears.
Chimeric: Added red filter with the TC-L32U3 TV, and perhaps very little with the samsung TV . He did thin shaded lines in the bleach textures of Halo2 with the V1.6 xbox.
Pound: Added green filter impossible to remove completly. Plus has the same issu than the chimeric (horizontal shaded lines) but this lines were only with halo 2 on the panasonic TC-L32U3 and the xbox V1.6)
Mclassic : Works with all. TV Cartoon too. Need wall charger of 1.8 A (approximately). The two modes don't affect the defenition. Only the resolution.
Souround 5.1=5 speakers . Stereo=two speakers. That mean that dolby souround on XBOX is useless if you don't have the stuff. Note that the sound was really better with a good component than with the composite. But, I noticed no audio differences between monster and this winning set up. My external stereo speakers cleared the sound compared to my internal tv speakers. If you want speakers, you need receiveur Yamaha. Speakers only don't work. If you want for gaming, select the speakers with a natural sound, and did for classic-JAZZ musics. Games need hight frequency sound ( metalic, robots, cars crash, bullet impacts, shield, bird cry, wind, radio, snap-crunch). And take speakers that have not box shape, to have realistic sound. I am using a Yamaha receiver R-s300 with two small Paradigm that have a rounded plastic shape.
Finaly, the https://makemhz.com/ seems to be better than the chimeric. So I will change the chimeric for it and keep all the settings and materials in this set up.
Thanks SS_Dave for help.
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48