AlaskaCC

There was no voltage reading on the IC, although I have 120V at the power supply. So if I understand correctly, you are suggesting that I solder a connecting wire from the IC light blue pin to the light blue point near the power/eject button and same for the purple. Is that right? Is it okay to use Kynar wire for that?

I have several boards (1.0, 1.1 & 1.4) that will not power up with a known good power supply. Capacitors all look good and there are no visible signs of damage or component failure anywhere. Are there typical failure points that I should check? Would it be worth it to replace the power caps anyway? Thanks for any help. I hate to ditch these boards or just use them for parts.

That is customary for the Philips DVD drives that I have used.

Had to do a fresh install of FlashFXP. Cannot remember how to move 0-byte files. Just changed the Transfer Mode to Binary instead of Automatic. Hopefully that will fix it. Looking from some help on this one. Thanks.

100% perfect timing. I was just moving a modchip from a 1.6 box to a 1.4 and was preparing to use Hexen. I backed up my C drive, knowing that Hexen would drop garbage all over everything and I'd have to rebuild. I was reading the recent messages here and saw your post. I immediately downloaded and used the DVD. You get a gold star and bonus points for the swift load time. The menu is simple, clear and concise. There are plenty of options. I especially liked having access to some of the programs and system menu. I'll keep using it and provide feedback as I go along. Props to you!

The Pro Switch package comes with a power switch bypass board, as seen in the attached image. This console did not have that important piece installed. I opened one of my other X3's and was doing some comparison. I pulled the little board and tried it in the other console to prove-out the problem/fix. That resolved it. Thanks for the suggestions and help. I sincerely appreciate it.

3294 BIOS. I put the chip on a new board (1.0), in the same case, and the same thing happens. It will not boot to the MS Dash by holding down the power button. Is it possible the power switch is a bit funky. There are some LED mods in there and I'm wondering if that is impacting in some way. I also flashed a fresh copy of 3294 and it didn't seem to make any difference. I can force it to boot the MS Dash by changing the order in the X3 menu but that is not a solution.

1.0 console. The owner has Steel Battalion and wants to boot direct into MS Dash. I guess it doesn't play nice with a modded console, according to him.

Same, same. It will still briefly flash red and then go to blue.

X3 install with the push button panel on the front. It will not boot to MS Dash if I push and hold the power button. It quickly flashes red then switches to blue and boots to UnleashX. If I load the X3 menu (hold white button on startup) and select "Reboot With X3 Mod Disabled" it works perfectly - boots to MS Dash. I can also reach the MS Dash by selecting it from the UnleashX menu. Why won't the power button bypass function correctly?

Working with a 1.0 console with an X3 in it and a loaded 2TB Seagate Barracuda. The drive is split 50/50 between F and G. I flashed a fresh version of BIOS 3294 and now it defaults to 137GB for F and G gets the rest. I'm not sure how to resolve this one. How can I get it to recognize the 50/50 split of F and G? I also reset the configuration to defaults. Thanks. NVM, I found the right option - Disk Tools > New Hard Drive Upgrade > Use Saved Partition Table = Enabled. I was looking everywhere else and didn't think to check that option.

Looking to buy a bunch of DVD drive belt replacements but don't want to pay top dollar. Anyone have a good source? These are the 25mm, right?

Nothing top secret. I'm happy to upload the details. The firmware (8050L) and instructions are included in the compressed file. The project requires some decent soldering skills but is worth the effort. Read through everything carefully before diving in. The file is almost 5MB and I am only allowed to upload 2MB here at the moment. Perhaps there is another way to make everything available.

Looks to me like the LG/Hitachi 8163B. I have modded some of those and they work great. I still have the original instructions and firmware. They were much easier to mod compared to the Samsung 616T. I always wanted to mod the 8164B but that required a special board and I have never found a source.

Ouch! Not a fan of the Philips drives either.