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GoTeamScotch last won the day on October 9

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  1. N64 Freak's design is a custom PCB that uses components from a real Xbox controller. The Xbox itself just sees a regular S-style controller, so there's no added latency or compatibility issues. I recently got one from him and have been loving it. I applaud nerdbombing's work here. Re-wiring controllers like this can be quite tedious. I did something similar for a case-swap project a few years back (see attached photo) to get the front-panel buttons working. It was a pain.
  2. GoTeamScotch


    I just downloaded the prebuilt again, unzipped it and FTP'd it to my Xbox. The skin I see in xbmc4gamers on screen is different from before, so I suspect this is not the same version as I was using. I see you updated the link in github, so maybe that was it? Anyways, all set. I love this version of XBMC and there's plenty of useful tools it has over the regular version. I'm surprised I don't see any media options though. I get it's a version for gamers, but that's quite a bit of working features to remove. I don't watch movies/listen to music much on my Xbox but still do from time to time
  3. Easiest way is to use Yelo Neighborhood. It's a newer replacement for the old connection software included in the official SDK that lets you connect to your Xbox (dev kit/debug kit) from a Windows PC. Works on Windows 10 too. Just connect your console to your home network and run this on your PC to see your Xbox's files. http://www.remnantmods.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1771 You can then load up Hack-devkit-GueuX-V2 to gain access to your entire E drive and also run retail games/apps (such as proper FTP apps).
  4. That's good that you got it working. I would add that pushing down on the chip while the solder is molten is a really risky idea. If the pressure causes solder to move, you get bridged joints, which can only be fixed (usually) by reballing. If you just squirt flux under the chip and blast it with heat, that should be enough to reflow the solder. Also, when doing bga rework it's good practice to heat the area surrounding the chip so that the difference between the hot area and room-temp area of the board isn't as drastic of a drop off. It's not always critical to do, but it's good practice
  5. Damn. ~$2k more than I'd be willing to spend on an alpha in good condition.
  6. I was just looking at 60mm Noctua fans but didn't want to get one if it didn't fit. Anyone willing to print me one (or more)? I'll pay for it of course.
  7. GoTeamScotch


    Hi @Rocky5. I just downloaded xbmc4gamers for the 1st time and am trying it out. Downloaded the pre-built zip from github and set it up. That part worked fine. I then tried to run the updater to get up to v3.0.0 and the update process failed. It's now stuck in safe mode, waiting for a FTP connection. Log shows libcurl.dll failed to load, then a 0-byte zip file was downloaded to XBMC4Gamers/updater/Update Files/. The updater app appears on screen and tries to work, but fails quickly and shows a warning message about autoexec.py failing. I deleted the xbmc4gamers folder and re-uploaded a fr
  8. I usually go for Seagate 2TB drives. Model ST2000DM001 (the last digit might be different). To reduce boot time, use an IDE-SATA adapter that doesn't add extra lag. Some do, some don't. I can recommend some good ones I use if needed. Also, use an 80-wire cable. ChimericSystems has some custom made ones for Xbox that are the right length and orientation. https://www.chimericsystems.com/product/custom-xbox-ide-cable/
  9. The goal of TSOP flashing and using a modchip is to be able to use a custom BIOS. Both methods achieve this. A modchip, however, typically has more advanced features. A lot of them have multiple BIOS banks, letting you switch between different BIOSes. Many modchips also have menus on them that make certain tasks easier, like HDD upgrades, EEPROM backing up, and FTP access. If you just want to hardmod your console and be done, then TSOP flashing is fine. If you want to tinker with your Xbox more, consider a modchip.
  10. Very cool design! Following this thread to watch how it progresses.
  11. The drive belt is the likely cause of your issue. It operates the drive mechanism that causes the sled to move up and down and the tray to eject. If the belt is too loose (from being too old), it can't grip the pulley enough to drive the whole mechanism. Clean the belt. Clean the tray. Lubricate the tray (if possible). If that doesn't help, replace the belt. I've had mixed results with putting belts in boiling water. Replacing it is a more permanent fix.
  12. Looks like the D0 wire fell off. The person who installed it probably used the "alternate" D0 point that's on the underside of the motherboard and it fell off over time. The D0 wire has to be hooked up for the Xbox to know that it has to boot to the modchip, hence why it's no longer lighting up. The other two wires are for internet and hard drive activity lights. To fix it, solder that grey wire back up to the D0 point. See attached pictures.
  13. I usually use UnleashX to see basic SMART info about a drive. I'll also look to see how many times it has been powered on in its life to get an idea of how old it is. If you're using a stock hard drive, just remember that some of them are coming up on 20 years old and hard drives don't live forever. If the drive works, then great. But backup important data you wouldn't want to lose to a PC.
  14. @feudalnate - First off, thanks for compiling a concise list of the cons to nulling drive keys. I'm kind of surprised this is your first post, since you registered 10 months ago and you seem know quite a bit about this pretty obscure topic. I'll admit as a proponent of nulling drive keys that I don't always make these side effects clear. I'll make an effort to be more vocal about that risk in the future. I think it would also be good if softmod packages that alter the hdd key (such as Rocky5's softmod tool) were more transparent about this side effect too. It really depends on the user
  15. "SanDisk Cruzer Blade". 4GB is the largest size the original Xbox supports. I'm not sure if you can get larger sizes and just format it to 4GB, but I would recommend just getting a 4GB (or smaller) stick to be safe. Smaller size sticks are actually getting harder to find these days. Here's one on ebay for example https://www.ebay.com/itm/254732627087

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