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sweetdarkdestiny last won the day on September 16

sweetdarkdestiny had the most liked content!

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About sweetdarkdestiny

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  • Birthday 08/12/1975

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  1. Here's a funny video from Louis Roassman about the soldering skills from Jays two cents (Link: the man in the thumbnail is a sadistic murderer). One of my all time favorit videos. :D
  2. Dave already said everything. Forgot to tell about that you could link it to the LPC as well. I read somewhere that the XBox is "well engineered" and that there is mainly just 1 ground piont at all which means, you could basicly solder D0 anyware you want. About the self made flux, use a syringeto fill it up, it will made things much easyer. I find the rosin + ipa stuff much better as that paste stuff you can get for around 4-5 bucks. If money don't matter get flux from Amtech. And here are two videos about flux : One and Two. Finaly the best part is you don't need to clean that up at the end (Yes you could and should but ....). Look at the Duke or S controlers. They have used rosin to solder them and the joints still looking awesome. And like Dave also wrote, show us a pic of your work. It can't be so bad that you must hide it. ;)
  3. No need to fed it trough the up side. You can simply solder it to a ground point on the bodom. I did that on the 1.0 and no problems at all. Here is a picture, no cable on the topside. About your problem. Try rosin mixed with some ipa so you get something like "honey". Works like a charm for me.
  4. That's what i told him (false advertising) but who am i? In case you want do such a thing you can do that your self but at the end it didn't make any seens at all cuz you still have to walk to your xbox to turn it on and like i also already told you can't switch the HD when the xbox is on. So at the end it's nothing more like a case with an power switch. A nicer and cheaper solution would be to grab 2 x 2 TB 2,5 HDD's with an PC SATA power switch and put that in an xbox.
  5. Some other already did that mod and it works. Link (German forum but hey....) : https://circuit-board.de/forum/index.php/Thread/13202-XBOX-Logo-cleanen-und-beleuchten/?postID=849948#post849948
  6. You're right. You should not solder the pogo pins. In case you need to change the mod chip more often or just for testing ect. those pin header strips you postet would be useful if not i would just solder. But it would be interesting to now how they fit and how "storng" they are.
  7. Das kann ich dir nicht sagen. Nach den Bildern zu urteilen sind das Druckschalter und diese lassen sich meiner Meinung nicht mit dem DVD Kit wählen aber ich kann da auch falsch liegen. Aus den wenigen Informationen die man findet geht da nichts klar hervor. Hier ist noch ein Link zu einer (Spanischen?) Seite https://www.elotrolado.net/hilo_analisis-x-tender_341345 , auch da steht nichts von Fernbedienung. Das würde aber sowieso keinen sinn machen weil, im laufendem Betrieb die Platte NICHT gewechselt werden kann und im aus Zustand das DVD Kit nicht geht. Ich würde also sagen "Falsches Advertisement". Das ding macht wie gesagt nur eine Sache und das ist das wechseln vom Strom zu den Platten, also eine art Weiche.
  8. Das Bild hier (B) von der erste Seite zeigt das du das wohl nicht brauchst. Die laufen aber wohl ans das Fronpanel des XTender (Bild (I)). Das ding ist nichts weiter als ein dreifach powerswitch wie man dem letztem Bild (E) entnehmen kann
  9. @HDShadow : Google " pogo pin connector ". You can get those from 1 up to ?. But be warned, they are pretty expansive for what they are, so i prefere to solder and get more coffee for the money i saved. A wise;) man said " there is no live before coffee " so you just can't have enough of them.
  10. Yea, the OGX360 is pretty tempting. I may do that but not on this slim build. I have 5 Dukes here which i have refurbished (got them pretty cheap but now they look alsmost new and all work flawlessly). How ever, I personaly prefere the S ones so, i guess, i will sell them soner or later (Maybe keep one for my self just to have one of those).
  11. I'm on my second slim right now. The pic shows it after i cut the case. I'm now cleaning the front panel (removing the "MIcrosoft" logo and the "1,2,3,4" Logos above the ports). I think i will get that done today incl. the final paint job. I hope to get the xbox done by end of the next week. Also you can see my first one here if you like (but the second one will be so much better): https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/index.php?/topic/3815-just-another-slim/
  12. I have think about an other option which i plan to do. Simply add 2 x 2 TB HDD with 2 x SATA to IDE converter and add a power switch for the HDD's. Voila more space as ever needed (In case there will be ever enough space). And a question. Why not grab a bios and make it work with bigger drives? Wouldn't that be possible some how?
  13. XBMC 4 Gamers XBMC with Origin skin UnleashX Avalaunsh EvolutionX (New HD EvoX 1.4) NeoDash
  14. The aladdin is already soldered in. I'm not going to change that now. And Amazon has delevired the new SATA controler for the 1.0 but me has forgotten to order an IDE 80 wire cable with it so, i now have to wait till monday or tuesday for it. But so is time to think about how I can make a fan holder for the new 40mm noctua fan (no i don't own a 3d printer). And i think about to put the 1.0 in the crystal case - would be cool some how.
  15. SO no TSOP splitting. I have trow the xbox aladdin xt plus2 in the 1.0 with an iND 5004.

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