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  1. If that's the case then its not really a huge selling point for the bios. The attach.xbe method has been around for ages, nothing new. I guess the real "Big" selling point for Cerbios is the LBA48 improvements for the 3tb+ support. Also maybe the "Dual HDD" mode I suppose. If they can add UDMA5 to those and also Xbox HDMI+ patches then I can see this becoming the default bios for a lot of peeps including myself. I certainly wont be replacing my X3's bios with Cerbios then and I'll be doing a fresh build sometime in the future on a fresh Xbox once Cerbios leaves Beta status.
    2 points
  2. For those interested in udma5 support
    2 points
  3. Dude, thatˋs heartbreaking. I hate when stuff like this happens. My heart goes out to you.
    2 points
  4. Hey guys, I've got a 1.2 that I spent the weekend revitalizing with all new fresh capacitors and upgrading the RAM to 128mb. Everything went well. I had Xblast reading all 128mb, and everything was working a treat. That is until I went to pull it apart for final disassembly to clean the case and everything up before putting all back together for the last time. I first removed the SATA/IDE adapter from the HDD, leaving the molex connector in place and holding it by the cables and moved the HDD tray out of the way. It was then, that I somehow managed to let the SATA/IDE adapter dangle enough for it to brush the PSU right along side the big 470uF 250v capacitor without realizing it. And in my excited haste, I had not yet disconnected the power cord from the Xbox... As soon as I saw the bright flash and pop that was the SATA adapter getting completely obliterated, my heart immediately sank. The adapter, of course, is thoroughly destroyed. The logic IC and one of the voltage regulators quite literally exploded. At that point, I knew I'd be extremely lucky if it was the only casualty. On the Xbox itself, it blew the T3.15A on the PSU. I had some spare 3 amp glass slow-blow fuses, so I rigged one up until I get the proper cylindrical fuse to replace it later this week. Surprisingly enough, the PSU still works fine, albeit with a slight discolored battle scar on side of the big capacitor... However the motherboard is a different story. It now 3 boot/FRAGs both with or without the X2.3b lite I've had installed for years present. Thinking I had fried it, not feeling too optimistic about fixing it, I harvested the newly installed RAM, and original RAM but subsequently reinstalled the original, after changing my mind on giving up so quickly. Anyway, I've tried all the troubleshooting methods I could with what tools I have at my disposal, which is not much. All the PSU voltages are good. I've swapped PSUs with another, just in case. One observation I made is that the MCPX X3 gets really hot very quickly, so I'm sort of thinking it's shorted and therefore also toast, and that's what's causing it to FRAG. In any case, I figured, maybe I'd share my story for your entertainment, and maybe even see if any of you had any suggestions on what else I might try to test before I go on the hunt for a replacement board and continue scavenging useful parts from this one.
    2 points
  5. I think I found the answer. You probably have an EEPROM password. Use this info to clear it and you should be good. Man. Somebody had to have some pretty extreme-ass circumstances to have to password protect the EEPROM on their fucking Xbox modchip. Seems like all those password features did was give people headaches 15 years later.
    2 points
  6. God I want this, but I just canˋt afford 475 right now. FUCK.
    2 points
  7. Update: @KaosEngineerusing the copy /b crcwell.bin+crcwell.bin+crcwell.bin+crcwell.bin crcwell1MB.bin you suggested has worked. I wrote the new 1MB bios to the SST49LF080A and the xbox booted XBlast OS. I'm also able to program the SST49LF002A with any 256kb bios and boot this successfully. This NANO USB Programmer is really handy thing and nice to have. @Donnie-Burgeryou should give it a try. NANO USB Programmer for PC M/B BIOS repairing with Economic shipping.
    2 points
  8. I think you picked the wrong forum. Lol.
    2 points
  9. Thanks, if anyone has this problem mine turned out to be a bad MOSFET. New mosfet good as new
    2 points
  10. Im going to submit this thread to the Nobel Prize judges.. btw ..7
    1 point
  11. From what I've seen, it looked like you still have the attach.xbe (default.xbe) file in the folder with the XISO (dot iso) file to play them.
    1 point
  12. This has evolved into quite the thought provoking thread.
    1 point
  13. This may be a bit of a hassle... But couldn't you just use mouser in the UK? Then build a cart based on the console5 capacitor list? I don't know the specs off hand for what you'll be looking for, but this search for instance *should* be what you can choose from for C1B1. They should all be fairly standard radial caps, they provide the capacitance and voltages on that list. However, the lead spacing may be an issue as I don't know what it is for all of them. Technically you could just measure them all on your existing board as you build your cart. You'd also be able to pick your preferred brands this way. I'd recommend sticking with something like Panasonic. However, I have no idea if you'd save much money going this route. Edit: Found this more specific list on badcaps.net which should give you the exact specs of what you need.
    1 point
  14. Have you looked into Titan bios for this?
    1 point
  15. https://electron-shepherd.com/xbox2hdmi/ These are crap! Not worth bothering with and i doubt very much that the Cerbios team will ever add any kind of support for it. Not sure what you were talking about then. They look clean on 1.4s and up and for $30 and can use on multiple systems, cant beat that. I ordered a cheap ebay to compare and have 2 x make Mhz on order of each flavor. Been loving Cerbios lately and if someone can ad UDMA5 its over.
    1 point
  16. Can i just add to this conversation.... 6
    1 point
  17. These are crap! Not worth bothering with and i doubt very much that the Cerbios team will ever add any kind of support for it. Fingers crossed that Cerbios will be the bios to beat them all, all the latest and greatest features in one place. I hope they will add the MakeMhz patches and all the goodies from the Titan patches too! EDIT: Little sidenote for those of you that didnt already know it. Xboxs have been able to play iso files for ages already, those handful of games that wont play when extracted have played fine as an iso. Cerbios just makes it easier as you dont need to use an attach.xbe anymore. I will probably convert my full xbox set back to iso once i have a box setup with Cerbios and a huuuuuuuge HDD. Iso files are better for the cluster sizes. Extracted games on a 512k cluster (which i believe is needed for 8tb support) will be a huge waste of space as all those 100's of tiny few kb files will all take 512k each!!!
    1 point
  18. okay, I check the modem again and give a feedback soon! Thank's for all the help so far!
    1 point
  19. Right then. The fact that other Xboxes connect on that cable and connection ok suggests it’s the particular Xbox that at fault. Not your setup. Check on the router to see if it has any blocked MAC addresses. Different routers and switches have this in various places on their config pages. But no IP is exactly the sort of behaviour you get when the MAC is blocked. A windows pc would give itself a 169 address in that situation. The XBox OS is simple and quite dumb in this area so does nothing.
    1 point
  20. $475 + shipping. 92688 for local pickup. Willing to trade for 3060ti, NVME drives, 3600 mhz ram. 5600x CPU 250GB HDD + Component cables included + an Xecuter 2.6 (just the bare modchip. no dipswitches etc). I dont know if the chip works, as I do not have the dips witches to test. Lower metal shield is rusty. DVD and HDD tray screws are missing. Controller ports are each missing 1 screw. Rubber feet are missing. Bottom of case has scratches.
    1 point
  21. Thanks for the clarification. Therefore, it is a problem with the relabeled/rebadged SST49LF002A (MFG ID: BF Device ID: 57) showing it to be an SST49LF020A that is causing the problem. Now I wonder if some of the earlier Aladdin XT Plus 2 modchips that have a different printed circuit board layout than the one you currently have has different CPLD programming to allow the SST49LF002A to be reflashed. Why I'm wondering that possible CPLD code difference is because the SST49LF002A has been listed in evox.ini's Flash= llnes for a long time of devices I thought it could flash: Flash = 0xbf57,"SST 49LF002A",0x40000 as are the SST49LF020 and SST49LF020A devices: Flash = 0xbf61,"SST 49LF020 (Matrix)",0x40000 Flash = 0xbf52,"SST 49LF020A",0x40000 Although, so have many Winbond W49F0XXX devices which cannot be reflashed by evoxdash: Flash = 0xda0b,"Winbond W49F002U",0x40000 Flash = 0xda8c,"Winbond W49F020",0x40000 and this wrong entry for a Winbond W49F020T #Flash = 0x9000,"Winbond W49F020T",0x40000 commented out (the first character of the line is a # character) of the evox.ini file I saw it in. I think they were trying to make the Winbond TSOP show it was not flashable reading the first two bytes of the BIOS 0x0900, not x9000. Someone goofed? Like this line too which is wrong when the TSOP flash chip on the motherboard has not been write enabled: Flash = 0x9000,"Chip not writeable",0x40000 It should read: Flash = 0x0900,"Chip not writeable",0x40000
    1 point
  22. Ok, so both flash memory chips can be flashed in the working modchip. For 33-4c-NHE designation, the Environmental suffix “E” denotes non-Pb solder. RoHS compliant part. If you use Evoxdash to flash the two different flash memory chips in the working modchip, do they show two different device IDs? Manufacturer ID for SST devices = BF Real SST49LF020A Device ID = 52 And, the SST49LF002A(rebadged/labeled as an SST49LF020A from the non-working modchip) Device ID = 57.
    1 point
  23. Do all of the visible traces on the front and back of the two modchips look exactly the same? Are there any differences however slight?
    1 point
  24. Here's one simple thing to try. Install the non-flashable modchip's flash memory chip into the one that was flashable. Is the previously working / flashable modchip now not flashable?
    1 point
  25. Thanks for your help with this so far @KaosEngineer. I got that Nano USB flasher today and tried to write the crcwell.bin to a SST49LF080A chip but the xbox frags and tries to boot 3 times then stays on after the 3rd boot but nothing happens. My guess is that I've written a 256 bin file to a 1mb bios and the xbox is not access the right address for it to boot? I flashed the crcwell.bin to the SST49LF002A clone chip that came with the Aladdin XT and this booted Xblast OS successfully, again my guess is becuase the SST49LF002A is only a 256kb chip? Any idea how to get the crcwell.bin or any other 256 bios to work with the SST49LF080A or is there way to put more than one bios on it? Reading more on this, I may also need to reprogram the CPLD on the Aladdin XT to handle 1mb bios
    1 point
  26. So I have this 1.0 OGXbox and it has been FRAG'ing since coming out from being locked away in storage for a several years. I remember it working fine last time I used it. It tries to boot three times and then FRAG's 50/50 fast, does not output video, and does not output audio. I have noticed that when I press the eject button that the hard drive makes some sounds like as if it's working maybe and also the noise of the fan/fans gets louder or higher in pitch (not sure), but the FRAG'ing continues and still doesn't output video/audio. I noticed is (while having the Xbox connected to an ethernet switch) that when I press the eject button the ethernet link LED comes on for about a second or two, then goes out for about five seconds, and then comes back on and stays on. I also see the ethernet activity LED blink a seemingly healthy amount too. I'm thinking the problem is one or more of the following: EEPROM, TSOP, PSU, trace rot, maybe big shield (mildly/moderately rusted) that the motherboard sits in is not making contact with required connections on the bottom of motherboard, one or more capacitors on the motherboard possibly need replacing. I'm kind of hesitant about putting a modchip in as I'm not sure if it may get damaged/destroyed by this particular Xbox (I have an OpenXenium on hand).
    1 point
  27. Sounds like a classic clock capacitor leakage scenario. Best to open it up and check for busted caps. If there are some others besides the clock cap, then you need to replace them. Edit: The clock capacitor does not need to be replaced. Leakage can cause traces underneath the board to rot which causes FRAG.
    1 point
  28. So, the Xbox gets an IP address? I'm confused I thought it did not obtain an IP address.
    1 point
  29. Since you posted and let me know I wasn't crazy, I decided to install an OpenXenium and go that route. I get everything soldered up, and think take another look. Long story short, I resoldered one point and now Bios Checker is reporting correctly. I need to remove the pins I soldered for the Xenium. I am thinking about leaving them since they're cheap. I had continuity, but maybe there was some flex in the board, or something stupid like that. I don't know, it's just a weird one. Thank you again HDShadow. It is much appreciated.
    1 point
  30. Just carrying on the insanely odd post of “4”
    1 point
  31. That's why pin 6 is not connected to an X2.6 or X3 modchip when installing them in a v1.6 Xbox. To provide 5Vdc power, you have to connect to the alternate switched 5Vdc source on a v1.6 motherboard. Otherwise, the modchip in a v1.6 is always powered on as long as AC power it connected to it.
    1 point
  32. What? No! That wasnˋt helpful at all! WTF!?
    1 point
  33. Been a bit busy and havent posted it for sale, yet. But here are 2 final pics.
    1 point
  34. I did choose the correct size and it was in c:\bios named bios.bin I am using an authentic S-controller. I just don't know what to do at this point, it's driving me crazy. It was a short trip already. I do appreciate the input. It's such a weird one.
    1 point
  35. Mate had an xecuter3 xbox he booted it up made Bios folder on his c partition and copied the 1mb bios backup I had on pc from my xbox and also copied xblast to his c partition. Then loaded xblast up to the flash bios from hard drive part then hotswapped his xecuter3 chip with my xecuter2.6 chip and had to hold a connection between his 5v cable and the 5v point on my chip as they were different then he held down left and right triggers, start and clear buttons on controller and it flashed my original backed up bios to my chip... He put his chip back in his xbox just to check his was still working and it booted up fine...so went home to try my flashed chip in mine and low and behold xbox springs back into life...woo hoo . PS I had allready tried a couple of different bios from auto installer deluxe disc but they did not work just froze at config live loading screen. So I was glad to find the above sollution with xblast.
    1 point
  36. It sounds like you are using two switches/routers. Theres nothing wrong with this I have a similar set up. I am a network engineer so for me its just how I wanted a set up in my house and workshop, and works in our zoned set up. If this is the case make sure only one of the devices gives out DHCP addresses, it gets messy if you dont. On the second router set it to a fixed ip and make sure that ip is out side the DHCP pool say xxx.xxx.xxx.100 keep everything below 100 out of the DHCP pool as it will give you room. Its unlikely you will fill 254 ips in a residential set up. the set the DNS and Gateway to the IP of the primary device. It will then be gatekeeper and glue for your nettwork. Then. Just plug the xbox into what ever router is serving your network in the room you are working from. The xbox will connect at 100mb on a 1gb port via auto negotiation, all switches and routers can do this. Set the xbox to DHCP and let your router do the work. Use the dash to find out what IP the box has settled on. Then log onto your router and set the DHCP to always map that IP to the XBox’s MAC address. That way it will always be on the same IP so you can always connect to it with out faffing about. If you have several xbox’s like me and use one cable when FTPing or generally messing with them on your work bench, MAC addresses are your friends. Let the router map things for you, and you cant really go wrong.
    1 point
  37. Um, can you maybe elaborate a little?
    1 point
  38. Thanks guys, got it fixed. I sanded the paint off the flat tops, but when I turned it on I got error code 09. Luckily I had a new 80 wire IDE cable for upgrading the hdd, and that fixed it. Guess the original IDE cable was busted as well. Now that I've fixed the issues with that, hopefully the modchip installation goes smoothly!
    1 point
  39. There are several ground connections made to the motherboard at locations of the shield that come in contact with the bottom side of the motherboard where the mounting post screws go. FRAGing may be caused by there being no electrical connection present now.
    1 point
  40. I don't know if it will make much difference, but if you painted the shield, you should definitely clean the paint off of the standoffs where the screws go through the motherboard. The metal contacts around the holes serve as a common connection on circuit boards like this. Things *may* work fine if one has a bad connection, but that's never guaranteed. If the screw threads were in contact with metal the entire way, it wouldn't matter much. However, I believe that thread into plastic so the pressure from the screw head holding the board pads against the shield are what's giving you a connection. I'd start off just sanding the paint off the flat tops.
    1 point
  41. Oh I’m sorry. You got me on that one. I got nothing
    1 point
  42. That would be Dustin from MakeMHz. You can ask in the discord https://discord.gg/knj3Qfb6
    1 point
  43. Here's the transistor I changed. MMBT4403 Here i
    1 point
  44. Johny white good chance the chip is fake on the board. Manfacture id 57. real is 52.
    1 point
  45. Thank you for being part. I'm not the important one. You all are. This site could be totally empty... yet here you are. So the thanks goes to all of you.
    1 point
  46. Looking at the original picture, I only see an F: partition. I would recommend checking for errors within the xpartitioner app as you’ve probably maxed out your space on the F: and need to allocate the extra space of the 500GB to a new G: partition. All of this can be done from the Xbox. Have a look at the very similar thread titled “EvolutionX file problems” Edit: Forgot to mention, this will delete everything from the F: partition so be sure to make a backup of any important files. Games can be transferred back again.
    1 point
  47. The clock cap is been charged at 2.4 volt by the components next to it so it is close to it's rated voltage of 2.5 volt, I would suspect the clock cap may be short circuit and or the charging circuit has a shorted cap. I had a Xbox with a leaking clock cap in for repair around 15 years ago and I also noticed that the cap failed and damaged the traces more often in tropical locations. Inside the red box is the 2.4 volt regulator an I have seen pics of the 2 caps in yellow that have burnt the board from a possible short Over the years (40 +) of working with electronics the super caps are always the 1st one to fail followed by the low value high voltage caps used in CRT TV's but all electrolytic caps will fail. With the clock cap removed test the voltage across the points where the cap was and you should have just under 2.5 volt in standby. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.
    1 point
  48. I would not run the 1.0 without fan on the 1.0 GPU heat sink. You can 3D print some brackets to fit a new fan on the heat sink or use the bigger heat sink from the later versions. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.
    1 point
  49. To me it's only worth $50. To other's maybe much more.
    1 point

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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