Leaderboard

That part really sucks. I've recently been cataloging and digitally archiving all my old family photos (going back to the 60's). There's thousands. And digitizing VHS tapes. I couldn't imagine losing all that stuff. Sorry for your loss of this stuff. I'm sure there's other folks, but the 1st name that pops into my head for getting a new HDMI-kitted Xbox would be @ModzvilleUSA (https://twitter.com/modzvilleusa) Just FYI, there's about to be two new options for internal/digital HDMI mods. OXHD (by Ryzee and Harcroft) and an HDMI project being worked on by Nemesis. Both are close to being done. Point being- if you wait a bit you'll have more options beyond MakeMHZ to choose from.

Its a full set in that it has at least one version of every game released. If I had included all the foreign language games then I would of had MANY complaints saying the exact opposite of what you said. I did contemplate adding them but as the VAST MAJORITY of users would prefer not to have them I decided against it. A lot of PAL releases contain multi language anyway. Plus as @Dempsey_86 says there was usually some form of censorship IF a German release was made. Better to have the main PAL release every time imo if you must insist on not having the NTSC version. Also consider the fact that many German, French etc people also do speak and read English very well as a second language. That is correct however I did add a couple of the alternate releases from the Repackinator Alt database, but only as I already had the files downloaded for personal use.

https://github.com/Ryzee119/hawk

That capacitor is just to smooth power goes into the SPDIF port. It has nothing to do with the actual signal itself. Start by cleaning the AVIP cable and port connections. It's possible you have some dust causing poor contact. Try connecting a generic high intensity red LED between the outer legs of the existing SPDIF port and directing that into your SPDIF cable. If that works but the port does not, it's the SPDIF port burning out. Also try using the SPDIF output from the xbox to another device like a cheap Cmedia CM6206LX USB sound card or Turtle beach DSS. Try another device with SPDIF audio out to your current sound system (again cheap CM6206LX sound card is great for this).

If they had extra content, I would agree with you. But censorship is not content, it's deliberately breaking a game in my opinion. (I know it's a law in Germany). I always need to watch out if I buy 2nd hands games, that it's not a German release.

I did not download the set, but I assume @nikeymikey did a full set as in the main set json in repackinator. This set is build like this: Full NTSC set + all PAL exclusives + all JPN exclusives There is no reason to add french or german games because they are the same game as the NTSC versions. Most of the time they are inferior because there is no 480p support in some of them or they dont have the english langue in them. NTSC is always the better version of the game.

X-cutter shoutout to jacob from swaggerMFmods for sourcing this one to copy and archive enjoy https://mega.nz/#!7gczzAgD!RjpA9lWfboxF1N953eF87Yy2Qy-ZesqpCF1B34UiKoc x-cuter-bluemeanie23.rar

@tiertop Expanding upon Marty's post here, it may be possible that there is a short or something fishy about grounding that is causing attenuation/dimming in the LED or blocking the data signal from reaching the transmitter entirely. Definitely look at ALL the wiring in there.

The 'ideal' temperature is, in theory, as low as possible for any PC or games console. Reported temperatures are a matter of question as I suggested in the previous post too and those can vary with Xbox version too. UnleashX and EvoX dashboard temperatures, particularly with v1.6 Xboxes are suspect but are still good for comparison purposes ie. if your normal temperatures suddenly increase without any obvious environmental cause then it is a matter of concern even if the actual figures are unreliable. With any Xbox dashboard you shouldn't be worried if at default fan speed (20%) it reports CPU/GPU as high as 60°C/140°F as it might well do at the height of summer and a long gaming session in a room at 30°+C. You can always switch the fan speed up and, typically, that will reduce the temperatures by about five degree Centigrade with each 20% step. But a retail Xbox fan at 100% is not a quiet thing. With XBMC I'd suggest you do what I do and that is set it to automatic temperature control with the aim temperature as 50°C/122°F and the lowest speed as 20%. In a temperate climate that will keep the fan speed at 20% for much of the year and, obviously, at or below the aim temperature.

Well, It's basically done. I didn't get the DVD "Ready" light to work (it kept fucking with my DVD ROM drive and making it act funny), but I did get the activity light going, separate from the HDD activity LED. LAN is there as well. The two on the left are the RX and TX LEDs for the Super IO debugger. I'll test more tomorrow with the XDK and debugging through LAN, but it looks like this project is good

No worries, man. This is actually not my first time to own an Xbox. Back in 2009 I picked up a used one for $50 just to play both KOTORS. Since then I've played through the first one roughly 10 times, and The Sith Lords a few times. They're still 2 of my personal GOATS. Also, played through most of Jade Empire, but couldn't get past the Etheral Realm part late in the game. I'd love to give it another go one of these days. I've heard good things about Brute Force and it is on my list, as is Red Dead Revolver.

You probably already know these but I’ll mention them anyway. Lol. Star Wars Knights of the Old Republic 1 and 2 were great games as well. There’s also Brute Force, the Prince of Persia trilogy, and Red Dead Revolver (though GUN is probably the better of the two). These aren’t all rpg types but just a list of some fun games. Figured I wouldn’t throw a ton out there all at once. Lol

Good ideas. I removed the cap from the circuit and intensity didn't change. I was wondering if it was possibly failing and becoming a short. I will grab a toothbrush and clean up the connector. I'm not sure why I didn't think of that. I have a new cap and SPDIF port on the way. The SPDIF port was very worn out from decades of use anyway. I don't have any high intensity LEDs around to experiment with unfortunately. I do have an old PC SPDIF bracket but didn't really feel like desoldering it as that port won't fit well with the XBox adapter anyway (I have it for an old nForce MCP-D motherboard ).

Had I waited just a couple days, I would have saved myself the effort of designing this pico zero pcb I ordered just a couple days before the "official" one was posted on GitHub . Made it according to the schematic for the regular pico so it uses different pins than the "official" one and I didn't add any resistors. Works wonderfully using the regular pico image, with a mayflash magic ns I already had as a receiver for an xbox one controller. Only problem is that I can't seem to get rumble working with this config which is probably some compatibility issue with the mayflash adapter. I'll have to test it wired to confirm. Now to solder a few more of these and order those usb c cables!

Thanks for the tips. I will look over it again. It is of course possible the cabling has hidden damage too. But all the visible wiring looks ok. The optical port is rather worn out though. It had a broken solder joint and the little door barely closes. I wonder if an electrical arc from a broken solder joint could damage it. The port connection also has a lot of play in it. I dug around Digikey and found a replacement emitter assembly that looks remarkably similar to the original, and also bought a replacement cap. We'll see what happens!

This is causing some memories to surface. After playing with these prebuilt releases from around the web, and finding IGR non-working, I looked around more and found the github with python patcher: https://github.com/gaasedelen/titan I patched an original m8 Plus myself and the patch itself is what disables IGR. I don't think you can load the final patched builts into EVTool.

These 128MB EVOX ROM modifications. I think they are based on m8 plus? I tried a few of the UDMA builds for non-HDMI systems on my v1.0 and IGR wasn't functional. I also found some talk elsewhere about IGR not working with it.

Looks like you’ve started to lose strands here. I’m assuming this is the cable that the case has ruined, as you mentioned. I don’t see anywhere else that I would personally start my troubleshooting. If you’re capable, I’d repair that connection and see what happens.

I think they are available on Etsy. I bought one there about a year ago. It works well. I've been using it with an 8bitdo wireless adapter and primarily a XBO or PS4 pad. There is a quirk in that the 8bitdo won't pair with the controllers on power up unless I press its connect button.

Yeah hopefully they weren't thrown out. The tape is probably wound tightly enough around the spools to not let water get in. Outside layer might be exposed to water but inner could be fine. Even if the plastic shell is hosed, the tape spools could be transplanted into a donor shell. Several of my tapes had mold on them and I took them apart and sprayed alcohol on them to clean the outer layers and edges. But inside was mostly fine. I also have a stack of hi-8 tapes, but decent camcorders are expensive so been holding off on those. Hopefully you can find and salvage them. OXHD is coming along pretty well from what I can see. They have working boards. Here's a shot of one: https://x.com/OGX_Harcroft/status/1772763477519573003 I actually have an unpopulated OXHD board that I still need to build. My XboxHD+ works just fine, but I'd rather not be locked to Stellar or have to jump through hoops to make it work standalone. When my Stellar wasn't working for some reason, it was a very odd feeling not being able to use my Xbox because I couldn't get a video signal. XboxHD+ works well aside from that requirement and I don't mean to speak badly about it, it's just not a product that suits my particular needs.

Just got a great deal on this. $15 with free shipping on eBay. After your reply I did a little more research on The Third Age. Initially I thought it was Strategy RPG, but to my happy surprise it's standard Turn Base. Don't get me wrong, I like SRPG's, but I have to be in the mood for them. Anyway, thanks again for the suggestion!

don't forget pixelfx is also making their retrogem compatible with Xbox. lots of options very soon

If you just did the those I mentioned (and of course any that looked suspect) you’ll probably be fine for a while. Just thought I’d mention the full recap as an option for down the road. If you run in to issues finding the cpu caps on the board dm me your revision or a pic of the mobo and I can give you the locations and values. For the rf shielding I thought you might find this useful. Quite a few people chimed in with different methods they use (sanding, painting, replacing, etc).

Thanks a mill FrostyMaGee! for all the great info and offer in further guidance. It has been a hell of a journey to say the least.In between reading posts, I managed to get one XBox back to stock and softmodded and upgraded the drive. I ordered the IDE(PATA) adapter 6 years ago along with the 80pin ribbon cable, so was all good to go. Had a few 2TB WD green drives that checked all the boxes. I know you said avoid them but they are very quiet and I haven't noticed any stalling when playing or loading - so far. After my negative experience above with the wrong unlock/lock adapter, I had the workflow down pat playing around with the Warmstor brand IDE adapter from eBay, FATXplorerBeta64 and XBoxHDM-2.3-Beta4 (on the borked but recovered drive above). Quick and easy. Did not tick the right box in FATXplorerBeta64 to format the drive correctly so quickly doing that gave access to the whole drive. Managed to rip most of my games onto the HDD (a few refused to work) and have been a happy chappy since. If anyone needs a link to the IDE unlock adapter in Oz, do let me know. The clock capacitor has been removed on this baby, but I need to replace the x3 caps near the CPU/GPU - thermal paste replaced on both chips. Parts coming in from abroad. Another XBox had a flashing orange ring after cleaning copious filth upon opening and stopped working - was working seemigly ok with carpets of filth - with the orange light indicator and refusing to show an image and then completely blank. I narrowed it down and replaced the ADM1032 Temperature Monitor with this https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/temperature-humidity-sensor-ics/7919623, which may have been indicating overheat and causing the issue. I ripped pads and spent a week micro-soldering to recreate connections but managed to get it onfor continuity. I'll confirm all is working once the caps come in so I can recap both xboxes and then add a 2TB to this one, too. Two remaining questions I have: 1. The damaged caused over time by clock and other cap leakage should not be underestimated. I have been lucky with these two I have and will ensure I get to all the other caps in time. Please please please remove the clock cap at minimum. Apart from the four caps I will have replaced, are there others that have a tendency to do the above mentioned damaged? 2. There seems to be a lot of corrosion/rust on the metal suppoprt frame at the bottom or near the fan. I tried soaking in baking soda but that did not help - maybe I should make the bath more acidic? If anyone has any experience with this corrosion any advice would be appreciated

Absolutely, it's on my list. I've already been able to pick up the other Tolkien games. Looking forward to getting the Third Age.

Welcome! Since you said you enjoy rpgs I thought I’d recommend Lord of the Rings: The Third Age. It’s an rpg I really enjoyed on the original Xbox.

Just done a v1.1 myself. Did get a bridge on chip 3 and whilst going to test on a Jafar loaded with Xblast, it started beeping. Just for future reference. All good now, just wicked it away. Quite easy to spot if you look at a cut across of the board at the chip pins, you've added.

i have an og xbox with a temperature lcd display similar to the one in the pictures below. can someone tell me what temps i should be seeing while gaming as well as while sitting idle at the XBMC dash my xbox is tsop and before i take it apart to replace the paste i wanna check my temps to see if a paste replace is even necessary

Hello everyone!, Blz? I'm doing a port of "The Orange Box" For OG Xbox using the official port of HALF-LIFE 2, The Project is already 90% finished and I'm in the last step which is REPACKAGE the files to .XZP (Only)....... In it will include; HALF-LIFE 2 (With some improvements), EPISODE ONE, EPISODE TWO AND PORTAL.... Does not contain TEAM FORTRESS 2 due to Xbox being too weak for it If someone help me create a repackager of .XZP files the game will be completed, anyone available?

... That's pretty lackadaisical considering what it is you just said. Dude I am so SORRY. That would be a point of mourning in my life for fucking decades. I have one in a Halo edition. Not sure I am willing to sell since I'm a bit attached to it, but who knows, I'll think on it. What all was lost?

I found it. Lan and HDD activity LEDs have cathodes to the solder points, with resistors. DVD activity are anode to points. I need to take a closer look and see why this is not working. I suspect a short. I will try to ask him for gerbers of the PCB and parts, but I think that this is his baby.

When you buy some used consoles on Ebay or elsewhere when you see "Refurbished" stickers on them? I bought a number recently, and one had a refurbished sticker underneath it. When I opened it up it was missing one screw for the PS, both screws for one and two controller ports and broken tabs to help hold down the fan! Man these guys are crude!

I’ve never actually seen one with a refurbished sticker. I would generally disregard unless they give a detailed list of the work done to them and it includes a recap. For any I’ve ever sold I never called them refurbished and always listed a very detailed sheet of things done (including an itemized list of caps replaced including location, values, brand, etc) and photos of the work inside and out. Half the Xboxes I’ve seen of late with the claim of “refurbished” appear to have been opened up and blown out with a can of compressed air. Somehow that’s “refurbished”. Lol Btw, how did these people leave a psu screw out? They’re only two in it. LOL. It shouldn’t be missing any but I could maybe understand if one was missing from say the mobo. Maybe. The broken tabs for the heat sinks and no screws for one of the dual controller ports…unacceptable. I’d expect that in a parts box only.

So, I did some testing with my 1.0 with a single TSOP split switch (512k/512k), with Xblast.xbe. Xblast correctly identifies the TSOP chip, regardless of the switch is in the A position or the B position. However, when flashing, it will crash and freeze halfway through flashing the A position, or it will complete the flashing and reboot on the B position. Either way, it will flash the bios (mostly) correctly even if it freezes. I say mostly, because I then ran the latest BiosChecker XBE with CRC codes added for the various version Cerbios files I was testing, and it resulted in very strange results, some that showed obvious corruption. One of the switch positions showed 256k slot A as what was really in slot A, then position 2 as what was in slot B, then position 3 as what was in slot A, and position 4 as what was in slot B. The other switch position showed something like a correct slot 1, and correct slot 3 for what was flashed, but a CRC that didn't match anything flashed to it in slot 2 or slot 4. I was able to recover from a bad flash, by completely booting the system, and then completely loading Xblast, and THEN flipping the switch from the bank that worked, to the bank that wouldn't boot, and then flashing in Xblast. I had to do this, because some test BIOS'es I flashed just failed to boot at all. Due to this testing, I would go with what was pointed out by @KaosEngineer in the 2017 'TSOP splitting' thread, that explained "Why you shouldn't do TSOP Splitting": https://web.archive.org/web/20070205091445/http://www.xbox-linux.org/wiki/Why_you_shouldn%27t_do_TSOP_Splitting After running on the split bios on an old, fairly beat up system, I attempted to use XCAT 1.0 to archive what was on a few different pulled HDD's, and after running for sometimes hours, it would eventually just crash and completely shut down long before the archiving was complete. The crashing might be unrelated, due to the console being beat as hell, but the results of the BiosChecker were very odd and disconcerting either way, and the article linked above does kind of explain the dangers of attempting to split a bios, and how it's honestly not really worth it, if stability is important to you.

Haven't come across that yet. I would completely disregard a "refurbished" sticker. May mean something to the average person but not to us.

Yes, but then you should not call it "Full Redump Set" because its not. For sure, NTSC is the best to go with. But for the german ones they are diffrent - mostly censored - which makes it kinda a diffrent game

Thank you so much @nikeymikey for your effort. But its not a full redump set - there are missing alot of european games, like the german and french ones.

A reflow of the additional RAM chips solved my freezing issue. Turns out that XblastOS can pass tests even with some pins not secured.

This guide and pictures taken from: http://www.biline.ca/xbox_solder.htm TSOP Flashing Unlock points if you are unsure which Xbox version you have click Here TSOP unlock points for version 1.0/1.1 Xbox This is the top of the motherboard Connect the two solder pads at R7D3 as in photo above. This is the bottom side of motherboard Connect the two solder pads at R7R3 as in photo above. All Ver 1.0/1.1 Xbox's with a 'SHARP' TSOP chip must also connect the additional red wire as in the photo above. All other TSOP's DO NOT require this step. TSOP Unlock points for all Versions 1.2/1.3/1.4/1.5/ Xbox's This is the top side of the motherboard These Xbox's have both points located on the top of the motherboard, for the first point connect the two solder pads at R7D10 as in photo above. For the second point locate the junction between R7D2 and R7D1 and connect the two solder pads as in the photo above. After the solder points are completed you should re-assemble your xbox (but leave the top cover off) when the power button is pressed it should boot normally as it did before you started. Note if you get the message TSOP write protected while attempting to Flash the TSOP you might need to check and resolder the points to ensure a good connection was m while attempting to Flash the TSOP you might need to check and resolder the points to ensure a good connection was made. To split Split a 1MB TSOP (v1.0, v1.1) into 4 banks of 256k, the following picture explains how to accomplish this: Note: If you have a 1.6/1.6b Xbox, it has no TSOP and therefore you cannot flash it. You will have to install a modchip or softmod.

Hey, I've been watching your progress for a couple days now, I cannot wait for this to release! Amazing stuff.

Yes, I usually only post when there is a big update, at the moment I'm without my PC, so I can't go very far, but I have 2 maps from Episode 1, and 2 from Episode 2 running successfully.... Portal is already running all (missing models and textures).... When I get another PC I will start making optimizations on the episode 2 maps to be able to run them all on the Xbox with a good frame rate and all the content (or almost everything).

Hi all, I have decided to fill some of my spare time ( just need to find some) with getting back into the OG XBOX and modding. Hoping that I can find all the tools I need here. I have my old XBOX ready to go Wish me luck im going in

Hi ! I'm from Italy, i have my Xbox since when i was a kid and now that i have some time i want to bring back to life my old Xbox. It's nice to that the Xbox is still alive !

Hi to all! I'm very please to announce that I'm working hard on porting as many as I can stuffs from Kodi's GUILIB to make XBMC4Xbox more up to date with Kodi. All of this started as desire to port Estuary skin and current GUILIB that XBMC4Xbox had is very outdated and porting wasn't possible. So I started to look through Kodi's soruce code from around 2011 and slowly I was starting on implementing functionalities. Threads on Kodi forum helped me a lot because every major release of Kodi had a quick brief of all changes that were done to GUILIB. Ofcourse there aren't all changes but most crucial and important are. Here is a video that showcase what I have currently: Don't worry about all missing things. That has nothing to do with XBMC4Xbox GUILIB. Reason for all this "error & missing things" is because of XBMC4Xbox doesn't have same Window IDs and InfoLabels like Kodi. But that's not a hard to fix, the most important thing is that XBMC4Xbox GUILIB is up to date with Kodi's (v15). P.S. It would be really nice if admins could create separate subforum for XBMC, just like there are for Rocky5's projects and N64Freaks products. I would like to have XBMC4Xbox forum with subforums: General, Development, Skins, Plugins & Scripts.

Yes, still I'm working on it! i'm that a short on time and resources on moment, but I'm firm and strong! You can wait and one day The Orange Box will still be Complete on Xbox and with new and unusual features!

Yes, why do you think it would not work? The Xbox controller port is USB with an extra Yellow wire used by a lightgun. Source: https://photobucket.com/gallery/user/xphazer/media/cGF0aDovWGJveFVzYlBpbnNfenBzYzI3ZTMxNTIuanBn/?ref=

The TRAY_IN needs to be held high (3.3 volt) to tell the main board the DVD tray is closed And from memory the CD_RDY need to be held low(0 volt) to tell the main board the CD/DVD is ready. The NEJECT is high (3.3 volt ) until you or send a tray open by pressing the eject. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

hi guys been a while heres the latest modchip copy done its at v1.0 and untested waiting for pcbs to arrive for testing thing is im running out of modchips to copy i only have the duox2 smartxx v3 and xecuter3 and x-bit left in my possession cant wait to depopulate them and see a bare board. i was going to leave the x3 till last i think its appropriate considering its pinnacle status as apparently being the best chip ever for ogxbox thoughts?

Methods of Identification There is no single method of identifying your Xbox revision with 100% accuracy, but by using three well-tested methods together, you will be able to determine the version of your Xbox with certainty. The methods are as follows. It is best to perform all of these tests because Microsoft doesn't print the revision number on the Xbox (that would make it too easy for modders!). The goal of revision identification is ultimately to determine which type of mod chip you can use, so after you have determined the revision by a single test, it's a pretty safe bet that you have your revision. But just to be cautious, I recommend performing other checks of the revision to be certain. Manufacturing Date The manufacturing date of an Xbox is just a "suggestion" for the revision. The manufacturing date is printed on the serial number label on the bottom of the Xbox. You can see this label through a hole in the retail box (used for scanning the serial number at the cash register), so you can try to identify the revision without even removing an Xbox from the box (although a used Xbox is probably lacking a retail box in the first place). The serial number/bar code label on the bottom of the Xbox includes a "MFG. DATE" value in the format YYYY-MM-DD, representing year, month, and day. Table 3.1 will help you to identify your Xbox revision using the manufacturing date (although assembly line and factory appear to be more relevant factors). Table 3.1 Revision by Manufacturing Date Date Range Revision Location 01/2001–10/2002 1.0 Hungary 11/2002–04/2003 1.1 Hungary, Mexico 05/2003–03/2004 1.2–1.5 China 04/2004–? 1.6 China, Taiwan Hardware Serial Number If you are browsing the used Xboxes at your local video game store in the hope that you can buy an older Xbox that will work with your solderless mod chip of choice, you will need to use the serial number version test. But what happens if the manufacturing label has been removed? This is a fairly common occurrence that might have something to do with Xbox owners not wanting to change their Xbox Live accounts (which makes one wonder why they sold the Xbox in the first place). Here is how you can decode the hardware serial number if it is available: LNNNNNN YWWFF where L is the number of the production line within the factory. NNNNNN is the number of the Xbox produced during the workweek. Y is the last digit of the production year. WW is the number of the week of the production year. FF is the code of the factory where the Xbox was manufactured, according to Table 3.2. Table 3.2 Factory Codes Factory Location Revision 02 Mexico 1.0 or 1.1 03 Hungary 1.0 05 China 1.2 (or later) 06 Taiwan 1.2 (or later) Because the factory code method is not very reliable (because there may be some codes missing from this list), let's try another method of identifying your Xbox to narrow things down a bit. See Table 3.3 for a serial number check that is accurate but not very specific. If your code is not shown, I would recommend using the closest code to yours, leaning toward the previous one if there is a value above and below your code. Table 3.3 Serial Number Check Serial Number Revision LNNNNNN 20WFF 1.0 LNNNNNN 21WFF 1.0 LNNNNNN 23WFF 1.0, 1.1 LNNNNNN 24WFF 1.1 LNNNNNN 25WFF 1.1 LNNNNNN 30WFF 1.2 LNNNNNN 31WFF 1.3 LNNNNNN 32WFF 1.3 LNNNNNN 33WFF 1.4, 1.5 LNNNNNN 42WFF 1.6 Video Chip Verification If you have used the preceding two checks to narrow down what you think your Xbox revision is, the next two steps will really give you a concrete answer to the question. Assuming you have already opened your Xbox per Chapter 2, "Disassembling Your Xbox," you should look for the video chip. It is located on the motherboard, directly below the video output port on the back of the Xbox (see Figure 3.8). This is another excellent verification of the revision, as Table 3.4 illustrates, and may be considered foolproof. Table 3.4 Video Chip Identification Video Chip Revision Conexant 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3 Focus 1.4, 1.5 Xcalibur 1.6 Figure 3.8 (at the botton of the post) The location of the video chip on the Xbox motherboard. Xbox BIOS Version Number You can use one final check to verify the Xbox revision that you own (or are considering buying): Look at the BIOS kernel version and dashboard version numbers. To view these numbers, boot the Xbox in dashboard mode (by powering up without a disc in the DVD-ROM drive). Go to Settings and then System Info. A disclaimer will scroll down and will eventually show you two version numbers: a K: value for the kernel and a value for the dashboard. You can perform an unscientific check of the revision using Table 3.5. If you are at a video store, this may be your only way of double-checking the revision. Note that revision 1.0 of the Xbox did not provide these numbers, so if you can't find them, it is definitely a 1.0. Nevertheless, I will include the 1.0 kernel version in Table 3.5. Some kernel versions may not be shown in this list; if yours is not shown, you can base it on the nearest version to yours. Along with the other noninvasive tests, this should give you a clear idea about the revision for a particular Xbox. Table 3.5 BIOS Kernel Versions Xbox Revision Kernel Version 1.0 3944,4034,4036,4627 1.1 4817,4972 1.2–1.5 5101,5713 1.6 5838 ----- This article was taken from the book "The Black Art of XBOX Mods".

Does Somebody hast Pictures of a 1.4 diagram