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I could speculate the same things about MakeMHz, it's awfully similar to your xboxhdmi mod. Which begs the question, who copied who? I didn't think that was a problem, after all Dustin did commit to OpenSourcing the hardware. Does this imply that the XboxHD+ is based on OpenSource hardware? Then why spend so much time and effort on the subject. So, am I in the clear for the hardware side of things? Have I done something wrong by selling Xenium modchips? I'm far from being the only person to have done so. You're jumping the gun a little, the project is still in active development. I don't even have a working prototype yet. We'll just have to wait and see what this project evolves to. Correct... "But for the sake of argument" The community just needed the hardware, I don't need to include a firmware on my end. It will be up to the end user which firmware they choose to use, much like a bios. All I've done is given the community an alternate option, which is what they wanted. This wouldn't be the case if MakeMHz focused on having good public relations instead of attacking everyone including their own customers. And anti-competitive behavior like this: "https://teamxodus.com/" For myself and many others this was crossing one line too many... False or misleading claims Claims that businesses make about their products or services should be accurate, true and based on reasonable grounds. It’s against the law for a business to make false or misleading claims. Not delivering products and services that are paid for Businesses must not accept payment for products or services that they don’t intend to supply. Pressuring and harassing consumers It’s against the law for a business to use physical force, coercion or undue harassment against consumers. Unconscionable conduct Unconscionable conduct is behaviour so harsh that it goes against good conscience. Under consumer law, businesses must not act unconscionably towards consumers or other businesses. Business behaviour that is potentially illegal Business behaviour substantially lessens competition when it interferes with or damages the competitive process in a market in a meaningful way. This is usually by deterring, hindering or preventing competition. Misuse of market power It's not illegal to have market power. However, businesses must not misuse this power to stop other businesses competing on their merits. "Conclusion" I could go on, but the bottom line is that I'm not crossing any lines that MakeMHz hasn't already! Some forget that this is a hacking community, I accepted the risks that go along with that years ago. And so has anyone else that has used modified bioses, emulators and games...

Back on topic now me thinks! Let the haters hate and lets get on with the project at hand! HDMI mods for our OG’s with any chip support etc.I can’t wait to text them out for NeM and for the greater good of our/the community.

Managed to get half of the modchips assembled, including one for myself with whatever components I had on hand. Already I'm seeing the benefits of the programmer and redesign of the Xenium. Programming these modchips is super easy now...

If you have an IDE HDD with stock 40 wire cable - UDMA2 If you have an IDE HDD with 80 wire cable - UDMA4 If you have an SATA HDD with 80 wire cable and cheapo SATA adapter and 80 wire cabel - UDMA4 If you have an SATA HDD with 80 wire cable and an SATA adapter that has a Marvel controller on it - UDMA5 If you have an SATA SSD with 80 wire cable and cheapo SATA adapter - UDMA4 (MAYBE UDMA5 works) If you hace an SATA SSD with 80 wire cable and SATA adapter that has a Marvel controller on it - UDMA6 If you flash a UDMA5 bios and you have just a stock HDD with 40 wire cable, you can trigger the save mode by starting the console with the eject button. That will trigger UDMA2 and you be able to reflash a lower UDMA mode. For normal however the bios will reboot it self into lower UDMA mode after displaying a massage which informs you what may gone wrong.

Now that my other RPi Zero's have arrived I was able to go through and do some fresh installs. I found a bug where I forgot to add a variable for the username and put together a bash script to automate the install process as much as possible. I kept the install.sh bash script as simple as possible to make it easy for people to read. It installs all the required libraries plus xenium-programmer from GitHub, including a variety of changes before compiling X-P. Also, the python script that makes the hardware work with X-P software will startup on boot. FTP home directory gets forwarded to where the firmware and OS are located for quick access. Once the install script is finished the LED's will cycle and land on "Standby". From here your ready to start programming Xenium's, no reboot required. I'll follow up this post with the entire install process along with a short video and link to the files. This might take me a couple hours or so but I hope to have it done before the end of the day.

Here's some small info on the bottom of the pic I attached. Xeno cam up with the design and such and then some one took that cloned it and named it Aladdin.

The Aladdin chips are clones of the XenoFX chips. And yes, there is also a version of the XenoFX with LC4064 chip on it called AXT Xenochip Pro. The one showed in the pic above the AXT32 Xenochip lite

I think it's possible depending on which pins they are, for them to pass the ram check but to not actually enable a boot. When my 128 was having issues after overheating, It would ping pong back and forth between showing 128 and 64 in Xblast, even though it always failed the ram check and in fact would freeze XBlast when testing the 4th chip... however, in both instances it would boot the MS Bios, even though it turned out that legs were loose and it was all hell in XBlast until the legs were reattached.

Been busy for the last couple of days getting together what I can for the test kits and finishing up those dual fan caddy kits in the background. I've been throwing in a few extras for people to try out including those Xenium jewels. Still awaiting one last parcel which has the last of the Xilinx's for the modchip and ADV7511's for the HDMI mod. But there's plenty to do in the meantime.

yeah those would be great. good idea. yeah whoever installed the chip wasn't very good at soldering. you should see how it looks now. I cleaned everything up and was even able to reuse the d0 they fucked up. consoles runs great.

Thank you for the reply! That is a concerning trend. Following that line of thinking I might pull out the MB and just follow the traces from the ide connector just to see if there is a break or corrosion somewhere in its pathway. Another good test would be to see if the previously working drive from the other console still works in its original console. Fingers crossed it didn’t hose that drive. If that works test number two would be to see if the problem console blinker works in the other console, as you mentioned, with a new MB in play. Yeah using fatxplorer and moving files to partitions will most likely be my only recourse for the problem Xbox. Once I have that the dvd drive will be fairly irrelevant insofar as games are concerned. I’ve been running everything on 2Tb hdds for a good while on my own and that’s what they want on this one. Whether I can repair this one or not I kinda want to see if I can figure out what’s up with this Xbox. It’s just bugging me now. Lol. Thank you for the advice and ideas. It appears I have some more investigating to do with it. Time to tear out the MB and break out the magnification! Lol. If I run across anything of note or stumble on to a fix I will be sure to update it here. Thanks again!

I'm not really sure what I did but in video settings in UnleashX I set 'PAL60' to 'YES' then restarted the xbox, which caused a complete loss of video output (except for the flubber start up and unleashX splash screen). Then using the audio that was still working blind navigated my way back to the video settings and set 'PAL60' to 'NO'. My video settings are attached if anyone else ever has the same issue in future. Games that weren't outputting video signal previously are now working using the component cables (haven't tried the SCART). I am never touching the video settings again. Maybe I won't get the best HD possible but at least it's working.

Awesome news! Turns out that the new kits don't work without Stellar so that's why mine isn't working. Sorry folks, gonna have to buy our $100 chip if you want HDMI....

well holy crap, how much did that cost?

You didn't searched hard enough. There is the option to flash it with an evox flasher oven to flash it with xblast.

That's a lot of Ram. I'm sure it will be put to good use though. I'm also assuming it was a bad chip but since the console still works it's not a big deal. Can always leave this one at 64mb. I'm sure it's better than the PS2 version. Gonna wait till I get get a couple more Wii2hdmi's to install in these since I like the versatility of being able to use either component or hdmi. I really don't find their quality that bad and they're cheap. Recently used one to make an hdmi adapter for my 360 since the hana is dead and felt that it was a strong possibility I'd kill the console if I tried to replace it, the quality is just as good as the internal hdmi.

change tv apsect ratio to 4:3. And i see it has a bit of overscan. Look for manual and search for 4:3 pan and scan or something to disable overscan in the picture.

How come? If you just TSOP the console, you'll never have to solder anything if that's what's making you hesitate...

You're one tiny bottle of conductive paint away from ever having to fuss with softmods on this console again.

I agree! Do you ever find a situation where you needed to use the chip's D0? I don't think I have. I think that you can just wire a switch between the D0 and the ground if you ever need to disable the chip.

I always tie D0 to the motherboard ground for chip installs. It just makes it easier if you're testing modchips and moving them around.

My condolences on your HDMI kit not working... and for owning an HDMI kit sold by MakeMHZ.

Download "XeniumPGR - v1.0.zip" from the link below: https://mega.nz/file/0fwCjYAY#UuqczDFnYAF8c5h17pwUpBe_Jzlnr6QGpSBofCNjT-M Thanks mate, but I'm just one piece of the puzzle. None of this would be possible without the combined efforts of countless contributors over the past 20 years. It's common practice for one to continue projects when previous dev's have moved on.

a third world country calling itself 1st world

I'm about to have a LOT more RAM. and some Aladdins to practice making XBlasts with. Just need to find the 1MB flash chips.

Just to recap on the xenium programmer, the final design still works as shown in the proto video with only one minor visual different being that the "Power" LED is now labelled as "Standby". Have been able to confirm that the OpenXenium adaptor works like a charm, not that there was much to it. I ended up using a rubber band to apply some pressure on the bottom header but much better solution would be to use some spring loaded pogo pins.

Looking good I'll have mine assembled shortly.

When I first did the dual fan caddy design, I got a bit excited and started printing it off in different colors to see what they would look like. The sets are incomplete but I should have enough filament on hand to finish them off. I managed to print off 3x "Black" sets before I ran out of filament. But as reference the above image shows all the pieces for a complete conversion. The "Blue" prints are extra's I'm throwing in for now... (Excuse the workbench with solder and stuff all over it.)

Immediately ran into a problem, as I was unpacking the PETG it hit me. Printing PETG on these PEI beds will destroy them... Will need to look into which surface finish will be better suited. In the meantime, I'm just going to have to work with what I got. I don't use many colors so it would be nice to use them up. PLA+ Filaments: White = Full Blue = 3/4 Purple = 3/4 Red = 1/2 Green = 1/2 Dark Gray = 1/4 Pink = 1/4

Now that the parcels are starting to arrive by break is over and I'm slowly getting back into finishing up some projects. I had a bit or a print off to compare 3DFillies, SunLu and eSun. It only took a couple of prints to see the results and I really wasn't impressed with the print quality of either SunLu or eSun. PLA+ is a combination of PLA and TPU to give it some flexibility. eSun seems to have a higher TPU percentage as the melting temp seem to be lower and produces a very high gloss finish. It's a similar situation for eSun but just not as bad. These test results have given me more appreciation for the quality prints I've been getting while using 3DFillies filaments. Unfortunately, it seems they continue to have some stock issues as they have not had either PLA+ or PETG available in black for some time now. But I think it would be worth the wait... I have a couple rolls of PETG I got from 3Dfillies a couple years back that I never used, so it might be worth that I setup slicing profile for PETG. With any luck I can just use my PLA+ profile and tweak the temps to suit.

I'm going for the infrared station, but I have a lot of hurdles to overcome with the upgrade even still. I'm very worried. I would like to have some successes here instead of perpetual failures. lol. Makes me worried about spending on the reflow station. Although I know it can be used for other things as well.

Yeah, I think I paid like 25 CAD bucks for 10 chips. Still better than buying a set of 4 from some sites that want that same amount or slightly more. I was able to upgrade two Xboxes for that price which is still cheaper than buying dead ones to salvage from. These are the ones I bought. Went with the K4D263238F-UC50 since they were a bit cheaper and appear to be genuine samsung. They all worked anyway so none were DOA. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002121771120.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.4.3d711802Fn2hQn

Hell yeah! I'm going to start cordoning off the area with kapton tape for an extra layer of protection. I've gotten solder into nearby vias before and it's killed boards.

xblast says they are successful , but im starting to doubt my installation, if i find spare time i will check , btw all rams ar samsung

Will open up my Lg GDR-8164B some time this week, and look for the signal points.. and i have a old pc with xbox stuff on it, maybe some tutorials.... Started modding in 2001, so i am a old guy, getting back in the "scene".

Finally it flashed properly with Gentoox and boots without wires.

Not sure if I mentioned this in here before. For anyone trying this: Samsung on samsung is the easiest option. Samsung on hynix or hynix on samsung is a little tougher. I believe I said that right. Ps: xblast can report 128MB and all 4 banks success and you can still have a messed up install. You have to go back in and find either the bridge(s) or pin that didnt get soldered down. I've done about 100 of these 1.6 ram upgrades.

That's almost how mine went, except it initially passed and then legs got loose when it got really hot and overheated... which shouldn't be possible since it's not even hot enough, but it happened. When I would check my legs, some just gave a bit, but some actually bent the fuck over and I would go, "ah Jesus!", And have to straighten it again with my tweezers. Pain in the ass. Felt like I won the lottery too, when it booted and all 4 chips passed. I used a chip instead of doing a TSOP version of XBlast. I also like to give motherboards pin headers just in case. That way I just took the chip off, and it booted to a TSOP Cerbios.

Thank ya. It seems that the battle isn't over yet though. Went to put a sata hdd in this one and flash cerbios udma mode 4 with xblast and it corrupted the tsop. I am able to boot still by bridging A19-A18-3.3v and letting it boot off bank 4 but having a heck of a time flashing it back to a working state. It's a Sharp tsop so wasn't an easy flash to begin with but damn this one is a pain in my ass. Keeps telling me it's write protected even when using the original method I used. Might just have to run this one off of bank 4 from now on or until I can figure it out and hope it lasts.

I got a 1.45V in the mail! Next one is 1.5V

Maybe bad caps. Post some pics of the MB.

Pretty sure you just need to remove the resistor at R2E7 and jump R2E5 to set 1.45V. The VID pins are internally pulled up so leaving them floating is a logic high. Untested.

It seems very hypocritical to complain about copying a hardware design when Ryzee did the same thing. The original XboxHD+ is no longer being made either. The design was abandoned so its no longer produced & sold. Again I dont see the issue when its no longer being made. Ryzee still copied a hardware design that someone else initially made and I am pretty sure he has profited off of that Open sourced a hardware design that someone else made? Also, maybe NeMesiS will use open source firmware Stolen firmware? How is using open source firmware stealing when its open source? Maybe NeMesiS releases his HDMI mod with no firmware. And the reverse engineering stuff you have me a little confused, is it not ok to reverse engineer hardware if you're NeMesiS but its OK to reverse engineer software? or is it just OK to reverse engineer hardware but only if you're Ryzee taking the Xenium hardware and turning that in to OpenXenium? Is one or both OK depending on who you are? or is it just not OK for either NeMesiS hasnt lied. Im guessing you are here because you have seen the pictures and the videos of his progress. He isnt hiding anything. If he were trying to hide something he wouldnt be so clearly showing you what he is doing. NeMesiS is working on providing an option that no longer exists for people of the Xbox community. An HDMI mod that works independent of whatever modchip someone is using. Nobody else is offering a solution like this, certainly not Dustin with his Stellar stuff. Many people already have a modchip installed in their Xbox. These people may not want to uninstall their modchip and install a different modchip just to get HDMI output from their Xbox. The work being done by NeMesiS is appreciated by many people in this Xbox community.

working on some kind of mounting bracket for the PCB

Might the final look... may order soon

Couple hours of troubleshooting... and now it decodes ALL valid EEPROM bins

UPDATE: Well... after a lot of midnight Oil... It Works!!! so now just need to add all the code into one looks like I'll finish the code before I finish the hardware... was expecting the opposite! Here is my proof of concept on the decrypting... Some things I don't quite understand yet (video standard, region... don't match the wiki... but not too important) Hoping to have a nice way for those who mod for customers to be able to pop this in... and seconds later... be able to tell all you can before even firing up the xbox ... either way... here is the output of the POC

I use a PCB like this. You solder the wii2hdmi to the larger board 1st and solder the correct small board (Lower) to the Xbox then solder the two together. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

Finished building the Xbox with the OLED installed. Managed to go in without an 'overcut' since I had a bit of patience for once and cut inside the lines, then used a file, As promised a few pics (though the camera hated the brightness & blue colour, had to shine lighting on it) Decided to do a Hotachi/LG flashed 8050L pc drive too for it since the dvd was capput as usual. Take ages to get the dvd tray sitting flush perfectly and all 6 case screws in too. Have to modify the dvd drive metal and plastic chassis to do that - a right chore. It's running a nice original 200GB IDE Maxtor that was bought new for an xbox - so not been hammered. Green lan led & blue 5mm hd led - both waterclear flat tops. Cheers all.