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Prehistoricman
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What will Stellar do with the extra memory?
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Have you seen https://x.com/MakeMHz/status/1809271943448916168? No, but I did see on XS discord a couple of guys said they bought a bunch of the BGA chips. Thanks. I'd wait it out until there is something real to purchase. You won't like the price of ordering the interposer PCBs for a single xbox anyway hehe
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Hi guys. Happy to see people are interested in this. The basic situation as of now is: I'm looking to producing and selling these, but I'm seeing that people are buying up loads of these chips so might give up on that If MakeMHz sells this hardware, I will see if my software works for it too The current state is that I haven't been able to get the memory running at full speed, so performance suffers 256MB is the absolute maximum as far as I know I'm going to release all the design files, software, patchers, etc. shortly Yeah I know this is useless but it's just for fun
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Correct
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Ah, but if you want the modchip to always be selected without a D0/LFRAME wire, then you should only cut the trace. Adding a resistor like I did restores the original function where a D0/LFRAME wire is required.
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I cut it in a specific place close to the Xyclops and put a 470 ohm resistor between the two cut ends. This lets the Xbox work as normal with and without the modchip and reduces the current greatly. I always use a blade. You can do two cuts at slightly different angles to get a bigger segment out. Yeah the 1.6 uses fewer caps, fewer chips, a more modern version of the GPU, and a less capable PSU (IIRC) all to reduce the cost.
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Oh, it's actually worse. Around 71mA on my box So that draws 0.071 * 3.3 = 0.23W which is enough to burn small components. The LFRAME grounding trick was another Microsoft oversight I suppose. The BIOS is in the Xyclops because it's convenient and cheap. The 1.6 is basically a cost-down Xbox and this saves them from including a flash chip like the previous models.
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Do you mean how much current does it take to drive LFRAME after it's cut? Grounding isn't required after it's cut. Or how much current it takes when grounded and uncut? It's about the 30mA mark from memory. No, the Xyclops is the SMC or system management controller and it contains the 1.6 BIOS. The video encoder isn't hooked up to the LPC at all so it can't possibly be used as BIOS storage.
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This was not the experience that I had with my non-CE X3. I measured it and it was driving LFRAME low constantly, taking 2 digit milliamps. 35uA is nothing - even the most sensitive circuits will not be damaged by such a low current. I think I saw around 30mA which is short circuit output current for that kind of IO driver. It is only 0.1 watts, but it will accelerate the lifetime of that driver in the MCPX. That led me to cut LFRAME on my 1.6 and put a resistor on it. @Bowlsnapper LFRAME is a signal on the LPC bus, the bus which the modchips use to send the BIOS data over. Holding it low on a 1.6 stops the Xyclops chip from using the bus, so the modchip can take over instead. The REAL D0 signal on a 1.6 board is unused. D0 means data bit 0, and it's part of a parallel bus up to D7. This bus is used for flash on 1.0 - 1.4 but that flash doesn't exist on 1.6. Likewise, LFRAME is unused on 1.0 - 1.4. The confusion starts when modchip instructions started calling LFRAME D0 because the user needs to wire up the modchip's D0 pin to LFRAME on 1.6. So they make a picture showing the LFRAME trace and mark it as D0.
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It makes sense that you could use 4 chips with the double capacity to get 128MB on 1.6. Doesn't really make sense if those bigger chips are expensive though.
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substituting original Xbox DVD drive with PC DVD drive?
Prehistoricman replied to Tartarus's topic in General Xbox Discussion
I have a original Samsung drive that is useless due to a dead diode. I looked several times for information online about diode replacement but struggled to find anything, especially for PC drives. The typical approach is just to replace the whole laser assembly. I'm sure the laser can be replaced with some knowledge and effort. -
I checked on my board and L2F1 doesn't connect to the C1F2 cap. You need to remove that connection. If that doesn't fix it, can you post pictures of your soldering?
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Bro... I'm talking to the OP!
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Test the voltage on a battery that you already know the voltage of (like a fresh PP3) to make sure your meter isn't lying to you.
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Holy shit what a disaster! Looks like some vias are destroyed too, so will require wires through/around the board. Cheap solder braid doesn't contain flux so it's basically useless until you add flux. You can't have too much flux.
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48