Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
OGXbox Admin

Xbox Power Supply Pinouts

Recommended Posts

Here is a run down of how to make a 1.0-1.1 to 1.2-1.5 adaptor. It's not terribly complicated.

 

First, it's helpful if you have a donor board to take from. I placed my troubled 1.0 donor upside down and then blasted the power connector with a heat gun on high for about 4 minutes. eventually it gave out on its own and i picked up the mobo and gave it a slight tap to make sure it fell out on its own. The first picture is the power header from the motherboard.

Next up is a 24 pin power header from a dead power supply. I removed the extra four pins (this was the type that slid the four pins off) and the 2nd picture is that header. The third picture is after I've removed the wires that are absent on the header, and added the wires that are absent that should be present. This was a bit of a pain, but a little wedging and a tiny bit of sliced fingers got it all together.

Fourth pic, I stripped and tined the wires to make things go a bit easier. I made things harder on myself by not identifying what lines needed to be doubled up on. There are two grounds that need to be merged, two 3.3v (orange), and two 5v. Had I been paying a bit more attention (and I hope the readers who follow this do pay more attention) I would have not twisted and soldered each individual wire, but instead frayed out the wires, interlocked them and gave it a twist before adding solder. This would have given a better connection down the road.

Fifth pic is the completed adaptor, along with pis six and seven showing my garbage solder job. I'm totally aware that two of the points are bridging but they are both ground so I honestly didnt care. Something that I absolutely should have done and did not do was get some heat shrink. It would have made this a much cleaner job in the end and when I do my clean up on it, I'll be desoldering the wires and placing some heat shrink on it to prevent accidental bridging. After confirming that it is all working nicely I'll probably hot glue it all just to give it a bit more strength.

The eighth and ninth pic are images of the adaptor working and the xbox it was working on. Funny thing was that it turned on with no issues initially but with no hard drive it would give me grief about turning off. I grabbed the hard drive from my xbox that i did the TSOP split on sine it has both iND and X2 files on it, and plugged it in only to get an error 13. I thought that i must have screwed something up, maybe the iND files are looking for a DVD drive or something. Connect up the DVD drive and put in hexen and it is trying to load but isn't doing it. At this point I'm convinced that the 5v line just isn't good enough and that's why the hard drive isn't able to boot... and then i realized im an idiot. I put everything back into the split TSOP box, and then went into hexen and unlocked the goddamned drive. Plugged it all back in and turned it on and everything worked - no issues.

 

So tidy up and to do list - get some heat shrink and re-do the solder connections with proper shrink, grab/find my fine point needle nose pliers to pull out a pin header that separated from the wire when i pulled the wire out, and hot glue the connections after confirming that they work. Do a proper smush test to see if i have to clip all of the stupid wires and shorten everything. I'd say there is 2-3 inch worth of wire and im thinking it might be a little on the long side of things.

So there you go.. how to make a 1.0/1 to 1.2/5 PSU adaptor by T2Steve. Long live the Scene!

Please login or register to see this attachment.

Please login or register to see this attachment.

Please login or register to see this attachment.

Please login or register to see this attachment.

Please login or register to see this attachment.

Please login or register to see this attachment.

Please login or register to see this attachment.

Please login or register to see this attachment.

Please login or register to see this attachment.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After giving this a bit more thought over night, I think what might end up being easier for anyone doing this in the future is to significantly shorten one of the 5v, 3.3v and ground lines, and solder them directly to the crimped pin that goes into the ATX side of things. That would reduce the number of lines in total and make for a smaller footprint overall. when i rebuild this I'm pretty sure that I will test this route out. Fewer lines means more room to maneuver.. I'm also thinking that it might be an idea in advance to just pull each of the pins out and re-organize them so that they are color coded correctly with red lines being 5v, yellow being 12v, 0range being 3.3v, and black being ground. the purple, blue, and green would correspond with white/blue/grey or purple/green/gray. That would make it a bit easier to follow.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great diagram, got a love a nice coloured diagram :)

what are the values for D1 and D2 ?

 

i have a Nano slim that has a remote highly modded psu that I was thinking might be better with a pico ATX supply in the case.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very nice guide hoping to get some use out of it.  On the subject of powder supplies, does anyone have any suggestions on some small form factor PSU's that can be used on the XBOX (obviously I'd have to wire to the correct pins etc).  I'm working on some creative mods and space is coming at a premium.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, KaosEngineer said:

Yes

Can you confirm this statement?

"To turn the psu on you need to connect the 3.3v pwrOK line to the pwrON line. Blue to white from the picture. 
PwrON should be a 3.3v input."

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

9 hours ago, neighbor said:

Can you confirm this statement?

"To turn the psu on you need to connect the 3.3v pwrOK line to the pwrON line. Blue to white from the picture. 
PwrON should be a 3.3v input."

2

No

PowOK is an output from the power supply unit (PSU) that is raised to a logical HIGH level (3.3Vdc) after the output voltage levels have stabilized. 

You need to tie the Vstb (3.3V standby voltage output) the BROWN, GREY or PURPLE wire of the various v1.0-1.5 PSUs  to PowON (White wire except for the v1.2-1.5 Foxlink PSU where it is GREEN).

The PSU pinout diagram at the top of this thread is incorrect for the V1.6 Delta PSU's Blue PowOK line. It is at 0V (a logic LOW level) while the console is OFF (STB column).

On the console, the System Management Controller (always powered on by the Vstb voltage from the PSU while AC is provided to the console) awaits the user to press the power or eject button.  It then drives the PwrON line of the PSU to 3V3 volts (a HIGH logic level).  Once the power supply's output levels stabilize, the PSU raises PwrON to a HIGH level sensed by the SMC which then resets the CPU/GPU/MCPX and starts the clock circuitry that runs these chips which make up the core processing power of the console.

 

Edited by KaosEngineer
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 4/26/2017 at 10:55 AM, T2Steve said:

For those who want to go from ATX to 1.0-1.1

Please login or register to see this attachment.

hi, does anyone know what transistor is used in this schematic?, or isn't it critical as long as the EBC points are observed.

thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh so that makes sense, without a transistor it the PSU can't power on and off, as PS_ON needs to short to COM to power on, and be open circuit to power off. I could only get mine working by shorting COM and PS_ON so the PSU was constantly on, and just powering it off from the wall when the Xbox was off.

I was also afraid to use +5VSB because the Xbox apparently has 3.3V standby.

Wait, does the Xbox do it backwards? Open circuit between PWR_ON and COM for on and shorted for off? Using the standby voltage, the PSU just turns itself on when I plug it in, then pressing the power button makes the PSU power off for a moment, while the console doesn't boot.

Edited by Steo1024

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yes mate they are often used as a quick and dirty way of dropping .6v, so here its dropping 1.2v  it can be done with resistors too.

my favourite is using a proper regulator but here the diode is the right solution.

i have found a 120 watt small form factor psu in my boxes of stuff, and when removed from the can it fits in the xbox case, its actually a bit smaller than stock, with minimal wiring, 5vstb, pson, pow ok, 12v, 5v, 3.3v  and a single molex connector.

so perfect for xbox use its out of a point of sale terminal and is brand new, so i'm going to use it in my 1.1, thats why i asked about the transistor.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's pretty nice, and it might even be more efficient than the original in that case. The one I'm using is an SFX PSU, but it would definitely be too big to fit in the case, so it's really only good for testing, or else if I decide to make an Xbox in a PC case.

I managed to win a bid for £10 on ebay for one of those PSUs that have a switch on them that SS_Dave talked about. I'm not sure what's in the box exactly, whether it has any converters included, as it wasn't explained too well, but I can modify it to fit my other V1.0/V1.1 (I'm not entirely sure which one it is) if it has the 20 pin connector either way.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yeah my brother reckons its not high enough watts, i explained that pico supplies run xboxes just fine and they can be as low as 60w or as high as 90w but  he wont have it.

but then again he is a mechanical engineer, it will be fine.

i just need time to sort it out.

Edited by sinclairuser

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think that most power supplies for consoles would never reach their full load anyway. For example, I've heard of people using 150w and 175w PSU's on the Xenon Xbox 360 which takes a 203w PSU by breaking the plastic tab, and they still worked. The original PS3 had a PSU rated over 400w, and there's no way it was going to even nearly use that much power.

I would like to get a pico to work, but I've heard people had to modify them as the 5v rail didn't have enough amperage.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By apple826
      i am trying to figure out how do i change the models and stages in soulcalibur 2 xbox if anyone knows how to do it please help me
       
      Example: Please login or register to see this link.
       
    • By shaokhann
      Good morning, guys. Would it be possible to have an xbox with 2 hdd by eliminating the dvd player? For example: Eject button dvd= hdd1 Power key = hdd2. Are there any tutorials or guides to make this change? Thank you all.
    • By Ccub
      Hi! I have a topic to start. I'm already happy with my og Xbox upgraded with another 64mb of ram, but I would love to have it modded with 1.4 Ghz Tualatin. My console inside is 1.0 revision motherboard and was manufactured in Hungary, it is also modded with dual tsop and xblast. Do you know if somebody is still doing that upgrade? I've already PM'd to N64 freak but I'am waiting for his reply, so meanwhile when I am waiting for that reply I decided to find out if there is someone else for that job besides of that, I've read that he is only doing 1 Ghz, not 1.4 Ghz anymore - but I already have two proper tualatins so maybe I'll convince him. The only other person I know that was doing this is Trusty but I don't know where could I contact him. My soldering skills are very little, that is why I'm looking for somebody.

Board Life Status


Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.