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For the last year or two I've been working on reversing some of the data structures that have been left unresearched or incomplete by the old scene, not to such a hardcore degree as I would honestly like but off and on when I have the time. This spans from what most people have seen me put out like the Xbox LIVE account stuff but I also have an interest in FATX16/32 structuring, the various configuration/datastore sectors at the beginning of the Xbox hard drive, the 1BL/FBL/2BL/BIOS image structures and data packing, XBE header/certificate data, security, and structuring, and the EEPROM data and structuring - the fundamental data types that make up the Xbox Today I completed the EEPROM data structure - well I say "completed" but there are still some things like flags, bitpacking, and a single unlabeled 16bit value to truly finish up all the info on the data handling side of things - however, structurally I have mapped out all the EEPROM data including the notorious hardware section as well as reversing the XConfigChecksum into something much more legible, portable, and simply more correct than what's been sitting on the XboxLinux/XboxDev wiki's for the last decade and a half I didn't really feel posting something like this on Reddit would be the way to go, the constant Twitter-feed like nature of threads just buries information and I have always preferred forums for their organization - and besides, forums are where I started in modding and forums are what I ran/helped run for many years of my modding life Anyway to my point, if you're interested in the structure and/or (partial for now) handling of EEPROM data then I've posted all the info on my GitHub project. This information can be used to parse, edit, or build an EEPROM image from scratch for any revision of the Xbox (including 1.6 and 1.6b models). I'll likely make a tool for people to create/edit EEPROM images at some point but I've got a couple Xbox projects I've been working on for a while and would like to finish at least one of those before starting another and I'll stuff all this structuring information into a table on the project page soon or maybe edit the XboxDev wiki so it's easier for non-programming people to view and understand at a glance Thanks for reading (also, posting this in the general forum wasn't my first choice but this doesn't really fit into the topic of homebrew - it's more so R&D) This paragraph has nothing to do with the subject of my post but I just wanted to say something personal here. I post this kind of information and put out these various tools and answer these questions that most people don't have an answer to for the sole purpose of bettering or further educating and simply just passing on information I know to the few left in original Xbox scene and even though I might come off as such it's never really been an ego or "clout" thing for me with the original Xbox, I've owned an original Xbox since 2001 and it's purely a passion thing. All I'm really after with this hobby of research and modding of the Xbox is to leave the scene with correct information or at least as correct as I'm able to comprehend and express to others, which I'm sure the old members of the early scene tried to do as well. The reason the original Xbox still lives on is because of sites like this and the handful of people that still hold onto their interest of the original Xbox or their passion of tinkering. Some of you may know my username and others may not, I've seen people mention me as this sort of Xbox "guru" or "expert" and I don't know if I come across as such but I can say, there are many things I don't know, many things I feel I'll never know, and a lot of times I feel like I barely know anything but I know objectively this isn't entirely true because there's a lot I know about the Xbox (and Xbox 360 for that matter) and yet it doesn't stop me from feeling dumb much of the time. Everything I know about computers, the Xbox/Xbox 360, data, structuring, programming, etc. is all self-taught and if you want to learn the type of stuff I know then you absolutely can teach yourself these things and it doesn't necessarily need to be on the software side of things, if you want to know hardware then you can teach yourself that as well - push yourself to learn, you are your best teacher. If you're part of the Xbox scene, whether you're a complete noob or have been around forever, whether we've had good/bad interactions in the past or maybe in the future, know that I appreciate you regardless of your knowledge or "status" and know that I hold no negative feelings towards anyone left in this scene and I probably never will. Not entirely sure why I just wrote this rant but hopefully no one minds, I'm just glad I'm not alone in this hobby of playing around with a 20 year old outdated machine

Here is my version of a slim XBOX that I designed. I tried to make the case as small as possible, and still look like an original xbox. I removed the DVD drive and the power supply from the xbox. I pulled my 1.4V xbox out of storage and it was fragging. Got tired of troubleshooting it (the clock capacitor was already removed). So I bought a 1.0 on ebay with a broken dvd drive for $15. The finish on the XBOX is not super, planning to reprint in white filament ( I ran out on my test prints), and only paint the black portions of the case. https://imgur.com/gallery/o58Nul0 I am using a Xbox 360 slim power brick to power the system. The power brick has 6 wires: 2 Yellow Wires (12V), 1 Red Wire (5V), 1 Blue Wire (Power OK, when it receives a signal back it enables the 12V rails), 1 Grey Wire (needs to be grounded to enable the 5V rail), 1 Black Wire (Gnd). The 360 slim brick outputs 5V and enables the 12V rail when it receives 5V back. I wired in a tiny 5V to 3.3V convertor on the red wire on the power brick to the 3.3 standby on my 1.0 motherboard. The Power OK on the motherboard back to the blue wire on the power brick. I then wired in a 12V to 5V 20 Amp Buck/Step Down Convertor and a 12V to 3.3V 6 Amp Buck/Step Down Convertor to the yellow wires on the power brick and connected those to the 5V and 3.3 V spots on the motherboard, and wired 12V directly. Here is a crude drawing of the wiring scheme. I added a 6 pin molex connector to the back of the case and wired it directly to the power connector socket on the bottom of the motherboard. When the power brick is enabled it illuminates the led on the brick orange and the 5V rail is active. This is being dropped down to 3.3V and going to the standby on the motherboard. When the power button is pressed the motherboard sends 3.3V back to the 360 power supply (which is high enough to enable the Power OK on the brick) and enables the 12V rail. The led on the power brick turns green. This sends the 3.3V, 5V, and 12V back to the xbox and it powers on properly. When you turn the xbox off, it removes the 3.3V from the power ok line and the 12V rails are powered off (power brick led turns orange) and the SMC is reset. My xbox powers on just fine without removing any capacitors or anything, but the flubber does stutter occasionally, but always boots up to xbmc4gamers. I installed an openxenium chip in the console. I am running indbios. The system has a 500gb 2.5 inch sata hdd. The power button I put in the case interferes with the daughter board on the 1.0 motherboard, so I unsoldered the connectors for the motherboard from the daughter board and added wires to extend the board. this board is zipped ties to an ogx360 which is soldered to a 360 rf board I salvaged from a 360 console. I do not have any original controller ports in the system as I will only use the wireless 360 controllers. These board just sit in the front of the case for now. At some point I want to develop some sort of mount for these so they are not just loose in the xbox. I designed the mount for the hard drive to use some of the motherboard screw holes to mount it to the case. The fitment for the ide-to-sata board is very tight so I removed the sata connectors from the board, and soldered on a female sata connector I salvaged from a dead 360 console. I cut the ide ribbon to about 6 inches and I am using a 6" sata cable to run to the hard drive. The ide-to-sata board is powered from the dvd drive connector. I cut a molex to sata power cable and soldered it to the ide-to-sata board where the dvd connector attaches. This allows me to put the ide board on the side of the case besides the hard drive. The case is too small to use a stock case fan, so I am using the stock fan on the gpu, a 50mm fan on the cpu, and a 50mm fan in the rear of the case. I designed the case to have ports like the stock case on the side and added them to the top of the case as well. I have not seen temps go above 50C yet. I am using Noiseblocker BlackSilentFan XS-2 for the 50mm fans. The final mod I made was to remove the stock video connector and add an internal wii2hdmi board. For future revisions I am planning the following: an attiny board to allow the 360rf board to display the controller leds and run the sync functions. I will add these leds in the case similar to how the 360 displays them. Add a sync and eject button below the power button so I can sync the controllers and get into the openxenium menu if needed. Find a better connector for 6 wires for the power as the current connector is large and doesn't mount to the case very well. (feel free to post suggestions).

Is there a particular adapter to use the joypad on PC ?

Hello. I wanted to upgrade RAM on my Xbox. First I TSOPed Cromwell inside and it booted. Then I soldered 4 RAM chips from China and Xbox started reboots and showed errors: Green, Green, Green50%-Red50%. After which I desoldered new RAM, but FRAG was still there. I guessed something was wrong with TSOP chip. When I got this Xbox it had some noname modchip from 2003 which I can't even guess clone what of. Anyway, error code switched to: Green, Green, Orange50%-Red50%. Which is RAM error, I guess. Now I think I should have tested it with each new RAM chip soldered. I only left original 4 RAM chips inside right now, but it still FRAGs. What can I do to repair it?

Easy-Build for XBOX Original What is it? A tool in testing for compiling xbox code. Easy to Update script. https://github.com/Empyreal96/easy-build-xbox How to use: Have easy-build-xinit.cmd on the ROOT of a drive e.g: D:\easy-build-xinit.cmd Open easy-build-xinit.cmd Setup the Xbox trunk in your Drive root as specified in easy-build-xinit (VHD users are already set up) Let the script apply Team Complex patches (These allow the xbox trunk to be built) Once that's done, follow onscreen instructions until Razzle loads Type into razzle: easybuild You can now build from the Easy-Build mainmenu Built binaries will be in %DriveRoot%\xbox\xboxbuilds\fre{dump} Any issues or suggestions please open an issue ticket so I can look into it Information Windows XP - 10 x86 Fixed issues with mstools/idw folders incorrectly being set Basic Options for compiling 'Unofficial' binplace script 'xcopybins.cmd' to place some built files Added 'xmakesamples.cmd' which builds the XDK Sample CD. Added a WIP script to set off the XDK build see XDK below Fixed %_BUILDVER% not being set on razzle-easybuild handover Changed menu colours (I may change back depending on feedback) Small update to some 'dirs' files that adds folders to the build process that can build successfully Separated easybuild.cmd (mainmenu) to public/tools/ Actual easybuild.cmd shows correct Razzle Tool Path now, starts xcopybins.cmd as postbuild XDK Building InstallShield Professional 6.2 is required for this: I have included my currently in progress script to try and build the Xbox SDK. Currently it fails compiling the InstallShield specific XDK Setup scripts.. To run the script, load Easy-Build, drop to Razzle prompt and type "private\SDK\setup\xsdkbuild.cmd" If you want to help the development of Easy-Build, have some issues join the Matrix chat! https://matrix.to/#/!febkSwamiedCsfevDe:matrix.org?via=matrix.org NOTE: This is VERY early stages.. It is lacking in many features that Easy-Build-NT5 has.. If I get time I will eventually figure out more of the build system, any and all help is greatly welcomed!!

Modified XBox done in 2003-2004. I had my XBox modified in 2003-2004 with a new hard drive and fan installed that allowed me to play every game made up to that time from Nintendo,Sega, so on and so on. Trying to get it back up and running but it’s still doing the same thing it started to do back in 2006. I have a separate circuit and toggle switch on the outside that would allow me to play regular Xbox games and then I would turn on the toggle switch to play off the added hard drive. Now all it does is power on and off before just turning the on button red! Anybody remember modifying a Xbox back then?? Thanks for any feedback

Hi, I have a hard modded OpenXenium chip with a 1 TB WD Blue HDD. I have everything set up and I am trying to get more than 200 GB - with more than > 200 GB left on a partition. Filezilla is not letting me do that. I am just trying to transfer the titles. They are all HDD ready for transfer but they do not go through at a certain point. They all become failed transfers. The bios I am using is unleashed x from the OGXBOX installer. It was not flashed by the program but was transferred by my network. It is a CEE bios. I switch dashboard sometimes. The only one that I have on there that is not preinstalled is Emulation Station. I had used the DVDmulleter to get the bios necessary. The HDD has been partitioned correctly having being split from F to G the remaining left. I am fairly new to this and any advice to help would be beneficial.

Recently purchased a Xbox pre modded. I thought it was soft modded but upon Futher reading it was hardmodded due to this appearing when booting the console. I stupidly yesterday tried to FTP rocky5s softmod upgrade thinking my console was softmodded. I'm unsure if it's a TSOP flash or a mod chop waiting for screw drivers to arrive from eBay now. If it was TSOP flashed is there anything I can do as after running the softmod upgrade from jrocky5 the console won't power on or make a sound to even power on. Nothing happens I still have the original Xbox HDD the console came with. The guy I bought it off gave it to me.

Hey all. Sorry if this has been posted, but I searched and couldn't really find anything. I have a 1.0 Xbox that was handed to me by a friend. He said he couldn't remember much about it, but that him and his kid tried to mod it a long time ago, and now it isn't working. Upon opening it, I found a pin header, no modchip, tsop points soldered, and the underside D0 pad ripped off. When I try to start the xbox, it cycles power 3 times then frags out. I'm assuming this is due mainly to the ripped D0 trace. I've tried repairing the trace, and bridging the two pads connected by the green line, but I can't seem to get the solder to stick. Is there any other way to repair this, or is this the only way? Relatively new to xbox modding so any tips would be appreciated. Thank you!

I have a Jet Set Radio Future save that I have played around 25 hours in that I would like to be able to play on my console, but I haven't been able to figure out how to resign the save. The save has an "error reading JSRF save data" and doesn't let me use my save. The save originated in Cxbx-R and it won't allow me to move the save to or from the console without this error occurring. Not sure how to proceed from here, and would be grateful if anyone wanted to help me out. I have attached the save if that can help, thanks for your time. 5345000a.zip

Selling this beauty. Only 4 consoles were ever made. I’m looking for offers really. Anything over 1000£ + would be considered. Will ship anywhere in the world, But you pay for that cost. Is usualy 69 £ tracked. Have a great one!

I got a job lot recently of some consoles - and all of them have buggered Thomson drives I've tried adjusting pots, tried booting multiple burnt copies of HeXen and OGXBOXInstaller etc. but all seem to just hang on the Linux screen. Any suggestions for what can be done? Can a HDD be setup outside the console? I have FATXplorer - and I know Eaton was looking at adding more support for the OG Xboxes however I think these are all still in beta. Cheers guys

Hi, Does anyone have a link to the xbox 128 ram chihiro package? I formatted the disk ...

So I have started a small Wiki on information I know on the xbox source code available It's small and early days so far, but hopefully it will be of help! If anyone knows any info I should add or anything I have got wrong please contribute! So far: Known Environment Variables Root Source Tree Structure https://github.com/Empyreal96/xbox-original-info

I accidentally broke my power board and tried to search a sparepart from ebay etc. with no luck. Any idea where I could get one? One of the the 1.4 revision had a a board which is little diffeferent than the one in Crystal so I didn´t try that one...

A bit late to the party as it's been floating around for ages.. The past few months I have been tinkering with the Xbox tree seeing how it works.. and much like my work with the NT 5 tree, Environment Variables will totally change a build. I'm making this thread to list down what environment variables I know (most will already know this), as a reference for me and anyone interested.. Also citation on errors or misinformation is greatly welcomed, I won't be putting the standard "_NT386TREE" kind of ones.. Anything with a * I am unsure about.. These are related to targeting "Retail" and trigger quite a few changes during build. • RETAILXM3=1 • OFFICIAL_BUILD=1 * or • RETAILXM3P=1 • OFFICIAL_BUILD=1 * This one caused a load of errors, I didnt look much into this one yet. • COVERAGE_BUILD=1 * For some reason this one was never set for the tree I work with, some postbuild scripts require this. • _BUILDVER=4400 This one seems to affect more 'closer to production' build options, several postbuild scripts rely on this set. • COMPUTERNAME=XBuilds This one needs to be set before razzle gets to "ntuser.cmd" as it specifies build options. • NTDEBUG=release Causes: • 'ltcg ~dm' to be added to %BUILD_OPTIONS% • sets NTDEBUG=ntsdnodbg • sets NODEVKIT=1 But setting to: • NTDEBUG=free Causes: • 'ltcg profile' to be added to %BUILD_OPTIONS% • NODEVKIT=1 These are related to Checked builds. • BUILD_ALT_DIR=d • CHECKED_ALT_DIR= * • FREEBUILD=0 * This one is presumably set on retail builds • FREEBUILD=0 * This one in theory enables some alternative textures and model placements for the dashboard, most likely used during testing. • COOL_DASH=1 * This one I am unsure about its purpose, it's referenced throughout the code.. • SILVER= I will add more as I find them, if anyone else knows any worth noting please add!

Hey all! I couldn't find much information online about this so I wanted to post it here so that others would be able to learn from my experience. TLDR; If you don't have any compatible flash drives but you have a PSP1000, you can use it to softmod your Xbox! I recently softmodded my first few Xbox's and I was having the hardest time getting the save files to show up. I followed all the proper procedures and tried 5 different <4GB flash drives without luck. The USBs I used were being recognized as memory sticks in the Xbox, but they would all show 5000+ blocks and no data. After lots of research and troubleshooting I found some scattered information that you could use a PSP to do it, and it works! Here's how I set it up: Requirements: a.) Original PSP1000 (This may not work with the later versions e.g. the "slim" PSP2000/3000 or PSP Go) b.) 32MB Memory Stick PRO Duo; the original SD card that came with your PSP (Some larger ones may work like the 1GB/4GB but I have not tested these) c.) USB-Mini cable (to plug into your PSP) d.) Xbox-to-USB adapter (to plug your PSP into your Xbox) e.) Softmod save files (e.g. from Rocky5's Xbox Softmodding Tool.zip) f.) Xplorer360 (to copy the saves from your PC to your PSP) g.) msvcr71.dll (sometimes required to launch Xplorer360; store it in Xplorer360's working directory) Steps: 1.) Insert your Memory Stick PRO Duo into your PSP (if it warns you that the memory stick cannot be read, ignore this) 2.) Navigate your PSP to [Settings] > [USB Connection] and press X (this puts your PSP in "memory card" mode and acts like a USB flash drive) 2.) Plug your USB-Mini cable into both your PSP and the Xbox-to-USB adapter 4.) Plug the Xbox to USB adapter into your Xbox and allow the Xbox to format it (you can unplug/replug to ensure it is consistently recognized) 5.) Unplug the USB-Mini cable from the Xbox-to-USB adapter and plug it into your PC 6.) Ignore any prompts to Format the drive 7.) Launch Xplorer360 as admin and copy the save files over per-usual 8.) Safely eject 9.) ??? 11.) Profit Hope this helps some folks! I imagine that not many people will use this method, but if it's popular I wouldn't mind expanding the instructions to include detailed Xplorer360 steps etc. For now though, I figured people would have sourced those details already since they're method-agnostic. OG PSPs FTW!

Hi! Couple of days ago I decided to try repair my xbox which has been sitting on my shelf for at least 15 years after dying suddenly. I opened up a thread on reddit here, and chatted with KaosEngineeer over there. To sum up the current situation: -The xbox is unresponsive when pressing eject and power button, no sign of life. Back in the days it was repaired under warranty (substitution of the PSU) and then repaired and modded with Aladdin and Evo X. -Opening it up I noticed that the clock capacitor had leaked, but seemingly not caused any corrosion. I removed the cap and cleaned up with isopropyl alcohol. - I tried checking the PSU and it seems to work, giving out 3.3 Volts on the standby contact (brown in my case). I tried short circuiting the standby with the PowON (white) contact by using a piece of wire metal, and I verified that the lines (orange, red and yellow) are more or less in line with the pinout (instead of being 5 Volts there are 5.27 Volts and instead of 12 Volts there are 10.73 Volts). - I checked both visually and with a multimeter that the 4 traces under the motherboard are uninterrupted. In particular, looking at this image: There is continuity between the cyan and violet pins on the PIC chip and the cyan and violet contact in the bottom of the image. The 4 resistances in the same image seem to work fine, with a value of about 10 kOhm each. -I checked that the front panel eject and power button work by verifying that, when pressed, they connect to ground the red and blue traces next to the 10kOhm signal resistances. -Now, the stangest thing: if I give power, the brown contact is at 3.3 volts (verified while the psu is attached to the motherboard by inserting the multimeter probe in the top space between the plastic plug and the brown wire), but for some reason the PIC pins that should have the same voltage when the console is plugged (before and after pressing the eject and power button) remain at 0 Volt no matter if I press the front panel buttons or not and no matter if I choose a different point for ground ( I tried using all the black cables and the RF cage). So, basically I'm stuck. Any ideas? Thank you for help

Selling my Raptor PCI Card. This card goes in a computer and connects to a development kit Xbox to facilitate the DVD emulation feature that dev kits support. For more info on what this card is, see here: https://xboxdevwiki.net/DVD_Emulator I bought the card brand new a few months ago. I installed it into my PC and planned on trying to use it with my dev kit, but sold the dev kit before I got to using it. It's in perfect condition. Price: $120 shipped to lower 48 states in the U.S. (if located elsewhere, pm me for shipping rates) Contact me here (reply or PM) or email me directly at my username at gmail dot com. Payment via PayPal (preferred). Shipping via USPS or FedEx. Will be shipped in anti-static bag. Photos -> Full-size: https://i.imgur.com/Do8VKl2.jpg Full-size: https://i.imgur.com/dRQo5N0.jpg More photos available upon request.

Hello Everyone I have the XBOX Origins 2TB image. All my XBOXs are hardmodded and I want to use XBOX4GAMERS. I want to keep the games on the image to save time copying again. This image has NKPATHCER so am I right to assume its a softmod image? Is the uninstall option on the NKPATCHER menus suficient to remove the softod? I have FATXPLORER so my ultimate aim is to remove everything thats not essential and leave the games and COINOPS so I can start with a bare image and add what I want. Thanks in advance

Hello I'd like to make some 720p patches for my PAL games but I cannot copy files from Xbox to USB, I dont see operation copy in file managers (Xbmc, Dvd2copy etc.). In the other hand I can copy FROM Usb TO Xbox, any help, please?

Ever wanted to add a new D-pad to your controller? Probably not. But im still gonna show you how. Both methods are on an S-Controller. I haven't tested on a Duke or any other controller. If you wanna try then let me know how it goes. Tools/Materials You'll need for this mod Phillips Head screw driver mini Phillips head screw driver Regular D-pad from an xbox 360 Controller or A Transforming D-pad from a 360 Controller (Depending on which mod you wanna do) Needle Nose pliers or Wire cutters(For method 1) Dremel/Rotory tool Sanding Barrel and cutting disc for your Dremel. and 10-15 minutes of your time. PART A: Disassembly First you'll need to pull apart your controller. there are 7 Phillips head screws on the bottom, 1 is under the barcode sticker in the center. once removed you can pull the bottom part up and remove the internals. Once you have everything stripped from the top half of your shell you'll need your Mini Phillips head screw driver. remove the 2 screws holding your original d-pad in place and pop it out. Part B: Mod Method 1 Now take your new 360 d-pad and look at it . the one on the left is the original S D-pad. right is from the 360. You'll want to remove the locating tab on the right side using your cutting disc. Alternatively you can snap it off with a pair of needle nose pliers or even some wire cutters. Now pop it in and reassemble everything. Your done!! This mod isnt really for the Original colored D-pads (Grey or Black) But once done you can buy many different colored ones for the 360 controller. Great if you plan on painting your controller. Part C: Mod Method 2 First you'll need to pull apart your controller (Refer to Part A) Once taken apart you'll need to take your Dremel with the sanding barrel and remove the internal part of the d-pad mounting location. Go slow and take your time. Don't cut any deeper than whats in the picture. If you cut too deep you will ruin the controller. all you wanna do is cut/sand it down smooth to the cylinder wall.(If that makes sense) Now you'll need to flip your controller over, and put the new D-pad into place. You'll notice the locating pins are preventing it from going in. You'll want to take your cutting disc and cut notches in the Controller so the D-pad can go in. (I cut to vertical slices and then used my screw driver to snap the piece off) Not the cleanest way to do it, but it works. Once the notches are cut you should be able to put everything back together (Using the original Rubber insert for the d-pad) and you are done!! Enjoy your new Transforming D-Pad!

In the Build v1.1.8\Extras Disc\Documents folder their is a txt file that says: You can run the "Xbox Softmodding Tool Extras Disc.iso" from the Xbox HDD. What happens if I run the virtual image and wish to restore xbox to factory using that image. Will it corrupt the drive as the image is being read off the same drive? Or being a virtual image it is stored in a temporary location and once the xbox is restored it is deleted and won't interfere when restoring.

So a friend handed over his old no longer working Xbox 1.0. Basically your typical frag..2 to 3 reboots then the Red - Green lights with no video or audio. I opened it up..sure enough the clock cap was still there so took that out and here are some pics of the top and bottom of the MB: So I'm concerned with the first pic...is that trace rot along the lower edge of the mother board? I think thats exactly the bottom part of where the clock cap was...and there was a bit of acid there which I cleaned up before taking the pic...so could this be the cause of the FRAG? If so what are my options to bring this back to life? By the way this box has never been opened or softmodded.

Xbox Original Green Limited Edition for sale, good condition and fully working but has been opened at some point as seals are broken. Completely stock nothing modified. Comes with one green controller and power cable. Ive tried to show the inside metal shield in 2 of the photos as there is some slight rusting? I know there was only 5000 of these released in Europe so open to offers as not entirely sure what they are valued? £120 plus buyer pays postage which will be via DPD. UK Only.