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Aero_105

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About Aero_105

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  1. I am in the same boat. I purchased a yellow ebay 80 wire ide cable ended up being 15" instead of 24" got refunded. Seller says keep the cable. I then figured might as well try re-crimping middle connector to ideal location as in link, https://www.reddit.com/r/originalxbox/comments/8dxepr/i_moved_the_middle_connector_on_an_80wire_ide/ . Found out the middle connector has no metal terminals what a scam! Maybe you have the same occurance. I may have to resort to using a 18" startech ide cable and re-crimp to ideal location.
  2. I was able to resolder the TSOP point I twisted half the stranded wires to makes a smaller wire where I tinned and bridged from the solder pad then to the SMD resistor where the trace broke off. I checked with a multimeter and used bios checker to see if it can recognize the chip. Being a Winbond chip I used XBlast OS program to see if it can read the chip and to get setup to flashing the chip.
  3. Lots of options to go by. I'll have to get better practice on tinning vias and solder pads. The solder iron seems to collect the solder from the already tinned solder pads. How do you properly tin vias and solder pads? One article (below link) suggested the solder flows to where heat is. So I must allow the iron to heat the solder point for a few seconds but not enough to damage the board. I have no difficulty tinning wires. Do I solder the wire and allow the heat and solder to flow to the solder point? I use a ST7 (.8mm) solder tip. Have same problem: https://www.quora.com/E
  4. Need a second option. Is the trace to solder point missing ok to leave as is? It does not look like a via. So I think I am ok. The original xbox has a modchip. I was attempting to TSOP so I could use the modchip on a v1.6 xbox. When bridging the solder with tinned wire after I gave it a tug to check if it was attached properly and it was enough to rip out the trace and solder point.
  5. Well I ended up desoldering the green wire off the leg of the chip. Then left the yellow wire I soldered earlier on the 4th leg up on the chip. Now the xbox original powers on with no interference. Thanks for the help. This concludes the post as solved. The hard drive still makes the clicking noise but that will be for another day.
  6. I disconnected the power and eject switch connector from the motherboard plugged in the original xbox and it still powers on. I followed the following link to get a better idea of what is going on. http://fillwithcoolblogname.blogspot.com/2011/02/1st-gen-xbox-trace-corrosion-repair.html I rechecked all the traces from "A" - "E". The "E" trace does not have continuity but it is hard to follow where the trace leads to see if there is damage. Could someone verify the "E" trace connection is correct in the following post. https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/index.php?/topic/29-how-to-fix-trace-cor
  7. I examined the power switch for trace damage there is none but checking the continuity test for both power switch and eject switch seems intermittent. I check a similar switch I have it is consistent for continuity when pressed. But that shouldn't affect the original xbox from powering on when plugged in. There must be more traces affected on the motherboard. I ended up splicing into the green wire as it is already connected to the smd resistor and then soldered the link to the corresponding chip leg. The original xbox powers on immediately when plugged in with no power down.
  8. Well I back tracked and soldered a wire to one leg of a chip and the other end to one side of a resistor. The xbox original powers on for 6(s) when plugged in then shuts off. Afterward pressing the tray button powers the xbox original for at least 20 minutes and does not power off, which is good. The power button does not work. At least I am going again. Is it safe to power off the unit by unplugging the cord?
  9. I purchased a 40 watt weller solder iron, some 60/40 solder, desoldering braid and liquid rosin flux. I practiced soldering and desoldering on a bad computer motherboard. I then soldered a ethernet wire to bridge the gaps but had difficulty with the pin hole point of the trace and could not get the wire to hold. The silver plate point was soldered but when desoldering it came off I was trying to put a new wire in that was better tinned. I figured the wire must of been to big. Now I have two damaged points. Could I back track further and solder from point near R3G4 the top of the board to
  10. I haven't done the repair yet but before I continue I would like to know if there is more damage than I thought. I don't recall the hard drive making this noise when plugged in a pc. Is this the result of a missing trace? I called a few people if they would solder for me. I got two quotes. I decided if I am going to repair I will end up doing so myself. I am looking into getting lead free solder paste and desoldering braid. I have a budget solder iron but ended up vapourizing the solder that came with it. Maybe solder paste is easier to work with as it is applied to the wire before mel
  11. In the process of finding a person who does advanced soldering.
  12. There is a break on "Trace A" I tested with a multimeter. "Trace B" there was continuity. The original xbox shuts down at about 3:30(s) with DVD and Hard drive disconnected. My softmodded xbox runs past 10 mins, doesn't shut down with DVD and Hard drive disconnected.
  13. How well does a conductive pen work? Does the repair need an overcoat pen as well?
  14. I got the xbox original to power up for 2:20(s). I used hot glue at the green and brown wire solder points, it didn't improve on time. I put electrical tape folded around the green and brown wire where they cross over ide connector and dvd power connector. I found trace damage on photo 16. Is it a matter of finding someone who does board level repair. With the modchip disconnected, dvd drive and hard drive disconnected I get an error 07. It then powers off at 2:20(s). I used an eraser to clean the glue around the small rubber square. Photos 15,16 and 17 https://dr
  15. Here's 14 photos of the xbox original damaged motherboard. Photo 1 is from another xbox similar board version. It has a resistor of 112 label. That resistor is missing on the damaged motherboard. Sorry the pictures are not that clear poor lighting and flash cause distortion on photo. The green wire on back of the board, the solder is closer than the parallel trace lines possibly contacting. There is heat damage on the back of the ide connector. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1xyojw0QrylbUP9E3nXgxr4DaBer2UyW8?usp=sharing

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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