MvZiC MaN
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I don't see why it wouldn't. But the old ones like the official Xbox one and the one used in this tutorial use a different encryption so they are not compatible with modern wireless routers anymore... Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J327A using Tapatalk
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Welcome my friend! Glad to see the forum growing. Slowly, but surely.
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Doesn't really feel any different to me. and yes the 360 thumb sticks fit just fine.
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It feels like it does in the 360 controllers. I thought itd feel weird or squishy. But it feels like factory.
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AFAIK there isnt a true solderless chip that will work with a 1.6 because the LPC rebuild requires soldering.
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Scrappy is right, It depends on what TSOP chip is in your xbox. any xbox can use a 256k bios. but if you try to flash a 512k onto a 256k chip it will fail and youll need an eeprom reader or modchip to recover it.
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You dont enter whats above. thats just telling you what buttons can be used in a password. Like Dave C said.. Press A,Y,B,X,Start and it should work just fine.
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- hexen 2017
- hdd
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Thanks man!! will use this on the one im working on now!
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MvZiC MaN changed their profile photo
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Ever wanted to add a new D-pad to your controller? Probably not. But im still gonna show you how. Both methods are on an S-Controller. I haven't tested on a Duke or any other controller. If you wanna try then let me know how it goes. Tools/Materials You'll need for this mod Phillips Head screw driver mini Phillips head screw driver Regular D-pad from an xbox 360 Controller or A Transforming D-pad from a 360 Controller (Depending on which mod you wanna do) Needle Nose pliers or Wire cutters(For method 1) Dremel/Rotory tool Sanding Barrel and cutting disc for your Dremel. and 10-15 minutes of your time. PART A: Disassembly First you'll need to pull apart your controller. there are 7 Phillips head screws on the bottom, 1 is under the barcode sticker in the center. once removed you can pull the bottom part up and remove the internals. Once you have everything stripped from the top half of your shell you'll need your Mini Phillips head screw driver. remove the 2 screws holding your original d-pad in place and pop it out. Part B: Mod Method 1 Now take your new 360 d-pad and look at it . the one on the left is the original S D-pad. right is from the 360. You'll want to remove the locating tab on the right side using your cutting disc. Alternatively you can snap it off with a pair of needle nose pliers or even some wire cutters. Now pop it in and reassemble everything. Your done!! This mod isnt really for the Original colored D-pads (Grey or Black) But once done you can buy many different colored ones for the 360 controller. Great if you plan on painting your controller. Part C: Mod Method 2 First you'll need to pull apart your controller (Refer to Part A) Once taken apart you'll need to take your Dremel with the sanding barrel and remove the internal part of the d-pad mounting location. Go slow and take your time. Don't cut any deeper than whats in the picture. If you cut too deep you will ruin the controller. all you wanna do is cut/sand it down smooth to the cylinder wall.(If that makes sense) Now you'll need to flip your controller over, and put the new D-pad into place. You'll notice the locating pins are preventing it from going in. You'll want to take your cutting disc and cut notches in the Controller so the D-pad can go in. (I cut to vertical slices and then used my screw driver to snap the piece off) Not the cleanest way to do it, but it works. Once the notches are cut you should be able to put everything back together (Using the original Rubber insert for the d-pad) and you are done!! Enjoy your new Transforming D-Pad!
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- d-pad
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Thanks man, Will give it a look and do a little research before i try it myself. i have like 3 or 4 dead Thompson drives laying around. Maybe i can bring some life back to one of them for a little while.
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Ah. I wonder if it would help the Philips drive I have? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk
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Looks awesome man!! i love the look of the black jewels on the black consoles. What grit sandpaper did you use?
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They are marked Y and B for the colors. and thats how they are plugged in. i checked and rechecked them.. And the error/s im getting are. i have to click it 3 times. but it then says Connected. if i click on format. then click on which format i want, This will pop up and i have to click it 31 times (once for each block being erased)
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They are the exact same sockets. but they are marked on each chip. and are in the right place. Thanks for the help tho! it is appreciated!
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That was the first thing I did. Tried everything XP and older, Still nothing. Ill do some more research. Its possible the chip is just bad but its too soon to tell.
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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48