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About Zer0_1Sum

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  1. I removed the remaining capacitors. Just as the first two their capacitance is about 1650 uF, and their ESR is about 0.2 Ohms, so an order of magnitude above what their datasheet says.
  2. Hi Kaos. Ok, so these two capacitors are definetely busted, correct? Tomorrow I'm going to desolder the remaining three, and hopefully the next week the replacements will arrive (by the way, I bought these https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/PLG0J152MDO1?qs=%2BxyxD9GtKu0GdHKI1cnZ8g== , hopefully they are a good enough choice).
  3. That's over 20 times the value I detect with my original old capacitors. Why do you say such value is ok for a 18 years old capacitor? I've tried now searching some datasheet (these caps are Chemi-Con KZE series) and I found this: http://www.chemi-con.co.jp/cgi-bin/CAT_DB/SEARCH/cat_db_al.cgi?e=e&j=p&pdfname=kze There is no indication for the ESR, but there is the maximum impedance at 100 kHz. I've seen it treated at the same as the ESR (for example by EEVblog), and for a 6.3 volts 1500 uF capacitor it should be 0.023 Ohms.
  4. Hi guys, happy new year! The capacitors haven't arrived yet, but in the meantime I started desoldering the old KZE capacitors. So far I desoldered two. They both have a capacity of 1650 uF, which is within the 20% margin from 1500 uF. Their ESR is around 0.23-0.24 Ohms. Is this value good or bad?
  5. Thank you all guys! The replacement psu I ordered few weeks ago just arrived, and it seems to work correctly, but using it didn't change anything in xbox behaviour. It is still dead, unless I short PowOn and Standby, and in that case it flashes with irregular timing between red and half orange / half yellow-ish. I think I can completely exclude the problem is caused by the power supply. I'll try changing those capacitors. Are these good replacements? https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/PLG0J152MDO1?qs=%2BxyxD9GtKu0GdHKI1cnZ8g==
  6. Is it possible for the 5 capacitors in front of the CPU to be busted even though they visually look fine? What is their role by the way? Unfortunately I don't have the proper equipment to test them while on board, the multimeter reads tell me nothing
  7. Visually, the caps seem to be ok. The only one leaking was the clock capacitor, and I removed it, but it didn't leave any significant damage to the board or the traces around it. I also checked those capacitors with multimeter, their resistance increases with time as it should if they are working. Will check them again.
  8. Quick update: -After resoldering the bottom of the brown pin I got 3.3 volts wherever they should have been. Xbox still wouldn't turn on. -I shorted the brown standby and white PowON contacts on on the PSU connector (while plugged into the mobo obviously), and now the xbox turns on as soon as I plug it, but it flashes between red and half green - half orange, with no video output. -Tried reconnecting the HDD and the DVD reader and plugging the AV into a TV, no change.
  9. If I put the black probe of the multimeter on any ground contact and the red probe on those pins it stays at 0 volt. However, if I put the red probe on the brown standby voltage cable an use the black probe on those 2 contact, I still get 0 volts, but the two contacts above them (which are indicated as ground in the schemes I found) display 3.3 volts. Am I measuring the tension wrong? I redid the measure you suggested before using this new probes setup, red probe on brown cable and black proble on cyan and purple pins, and this time I get 0 volts without pressing the buttons and 3.3 vol
  10. I measured it again just now out of caution. It is 0 volts, regardless if I'm pushing the power or eject button or not. It is as if, even though the 3.3 volts are available, they don't reach the PIC pins
  11. Hi! Couple of days ago I decided to try repair my xbox which has been sitting on my shelf for at least 15 years after dying suddenly. I opened up a thread on reddit here, and chatted with KaosEngineeer over there. To sum up the current situation: -The xbox is unresponsive when pressing eject and power button, no sign of life. Back in the days it was repaired under warranty (substitution of the PSU) and then repaired and modded with Aladdin and Evo X. -Opening it up I noticed that the clock capacitor had leaked, but seemingly not caused any corrosion. I removed the cap
  12. Hello to all! I'm in the process of trying to repair my v1.0 original xbox, and searching on the internet I found this forum. Hope I'll find some help here and be able to play it again ^^

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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