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1.4 Xbox not turning on, it was working perfectly fine before.


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Hello a couple of days ago I was testing my newly built component cables (Before using them I tested everything with a multimeter and nothing was shorting and I was able to play with them and they looked great since I used shielded 360 cables so I don't think that the cable is the problem) on my Xbox and it was working perfectly fine, I restarted it a couple of times and I didn't have a single problem, today I tried to play again and I got stuck on the iND-Bios splash screen with the light blinking red and green with no change, it just gets stuck there.

My Xbox is tsoped and I have installed a 320 Samsung hard drive with an IDE to SATA adapter and an 80 wires IDE cable (Properly insulated), the DVD drive mechanism is not in the best condition since it needs help to eject or insert itself sometimes but it reads discs perfectly fine when they get inside, I tried booting tru Hexen 2019 and the console kept ejecting it, I'm not sure if this is related to the bios stuck problem or the disc drive itself (I didn't have the need to use it for the last half of the year since the HDD was working perfectly fine and I didn't do any major changes to the dashboard/bios).

Aside from that it was working without any problems and I didn't change any configs, I just played DOA 3 and Crazy Taxi 3.

Now the console just doesn't turn on, I press the power button or eject and the fan spins one time and nothing happens.

Video: https://i.imgur.com/aRyVI25.mp4

And i went ahead and took pictures of the motherboard:

Motherboard Top: https://imgur.com/a/juHHvXq

Motherboard Bottom: https://imgur.com/a/x7QU5BH

Capacitors close up: https://imgur.com/a/rtsa2IR

None of them seem to be bulging or leaking, and the clock cap is a Nichicon cap (the golden ones) and it looks perfectly fine, the console was retaining the date without problems.

Motherboard Sides: https://imgur.com/a/xBjawQV

Power Suply: https://imgur.com/a/MsmdA9w

Same deal here, all the caps seem to be fine, no leaking or bulging.

So i'm not sure what else to check, any advice?

Thanks for your time, and let me know if I need to provide more info. Apologies for my grammar errors, English is not my first language.

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Seems like a power supply issue to me. Remove it from your xbox and manually power it on(If it can be done,you must short its white wire to one of the ground wires(I havent done it thow,so make a research before you do it!!!!))then check with your multimeter if it stays on and if it does,if all of the voltages are correct. Wish you luck

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Thanks for the replies, now that I saw my old threads here I remember that I had this issue once and it fixed itself by just leaving the console off for a couple of days.

My PSU is a Delta I suppose, about testing it how I should proceed, I should plug it into the wall and put the multimeter leads on the connector?

XboxPSPinouts.jpg.5a2e9fd6bb51cf2533b48d03007c1a51.jpg

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6 minutes ago, Guilleack said:

Thanks for the replies, now that I saw my old threads here I remember that I had this issue once and it fixed itself by just leaving the console off for a couple of days.

My PSU is a Delta I suppose, about testing it how I should proceed, I should plug it into the wall and put the multimeter leads on the connector?

 

Yes, you can connect the black (-) probe of the multimeter to one of the ground wires of the Power Supply Unit (PSU) connector or to the metal RF shield inside the console.  It is tied to the DC power supply ground inside the console.

First, measure the voltage level of the gray wire - the 3.3Vdc standby voltage - with the console off then see if it changes when you try to power on the console.  What readings do you obtain?

 

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I continued to troubleshoot the console in this post a bit.

 

And from what I tested there is something wrong with my PSU

psu12-15delta.gif.aa7c9323f43984928b7c87145090a72c.gif

In Gray I get the correct 3.3V, White 3.3V when I press the power button just for a second, Blue stays at 0 even if I press the power button, Orange about 0.8V, Red about 4V, and Yellow to 8V.

Is there anything more to test? Or do you think that this PSU is toasted and I should try to find another one?

Thanks for your time.

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With the 20 pin plug disconnected from the main board link the white(PowOn) to the gray (3.3volt)

with the black lead of your meter in any of the black wires test the any of the Red wres and you should get 5 volt (4.5-5.5)

then any of the Orange wires and you should get 3.3 volt (3.2-3.4)

now the yellow should give 12 volt (11-13).

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

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As you write,ALL of the voltages are low so i would suggest you tweaking them. In the front side of the psu there is a potensiometer. Turn it until the voltages are correct(dont know wich direction,make small adjustment each time since a fraction of a turn,can increase or decrease a whole volt). Good luck

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22 hours ago, SS_Dave said:

With the 20 pin plug disconnected from the main board link the white(PowOn) to the gray (3.3volt)

with the black lead of your meter in any of the black wires test the any of the Red wres and you should get 5 volt (4.5-5.5)

then any of the Orange wires and you should get 3.3 volt (3.2-3.4)

now the yellow should give 12 volt (11-13).

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

I tried that and they still are lower than the expected voltages, the grey and white 3.3V still read as they should, the blue wire (PowOk) remains at 0.

3 hours ago, SakisTheDrifter said:

As you write,ALL of the voltages are low so i would suggest you tweaking them. In the front side of the psu there is a potensiometer. Turn it until the voltages are correct(dont know wich direction,make small adjustment each time since a fraction of a turn,can increase or decrease a whole volt). Good luck

If I do that would it change the value of the grey and white wires? I mean those two show 3.3V as they should.

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The PowOK is from the main board to tell the power supply that the standby power in good. it will read 0 volt when testing the way I posted.

If you are going to try adjusting the trim pot do it with the link from whit to gray and the PSU not connected to the Xbox, You have nothing to lose by trying and is the 5 volt and 3.3 volt supplies that are the main ones the 12volt is for the Fan and HDD so if you can get readings close to what I posted that will be fine.

I think because you mentioned before you have 0 volt on the PowOk with the PSU connected the problem is going to be the motherboard and not the PSU,

What happens if you try and power on the Xbox with both DVD and the Hard drive disconnected and also with no AV lead connected, so PSU and motherboard only.

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

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1 hour ago, sinclairuser said:

possibly caps, but i think its power supply, try another supply if you dont have an xbox one an atx supply is good to get the xbox running again while you get a new xbox supply.

 

On 2/21/2021 at 1:00 PM, Guilleack said:

In Gray I get the correct 3.3V, White 3.3V when I press the power button just for a second, Blue stays at 0 even if I press the power button, Orange about 0.8V, Red about 4V, and Yellow to 8V.

 

I suspect it's the main board as he said there is no PowOK (Blue wire) to the PSU, But trying a different PSU is not going to hurt.

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

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