1.4 Xbox not turning on, it was working perfectly fine before.

[Guilleack]

Hello a couple of days ago I was testing my newly built component cables (Before using them I tested everything with a multimeter and nothing was shorting and I was able to play with them and they looked great since I used shielded 360 cables so I don't think that the cable is the problem) on my Xbox and it was working perfectly fine, I restarted it a couple of times and I didn't have a single problem, today I tried to play again and I got stuck on the iND-Bios splash screen with the light blinking red and green with no change, it just gets stuck there.

My Xbox is tsoped and I have installed a 320 Samsung hard drive with an IDE to SATA adapter and an 80 wires IDE cable (Properly insulated), the DVD drive mechanism is not in the best condition since it needs help to eject or insert itself sometimes but it reads discs perfectly fine when they get inside, I tried booting tru Hexen 2019 and the console kept ejecting it, I'm not sure if this is related to the bios stuck problem or the disc drive itself (I didn't have the need to use it for the last half of the year since the HDD was working perfectly fine and I didn't do any major changes to the dashboard/bios).

Aside from that it was working without any problems and I didn't change any configs, I just played DOA 3 and Crazy Taxi 3.

Now the console just doesn't turn on, I press the power button or eject and the fan spins one time and nothing happens.

Video: https://i.imgur.com/aRyVI25.mp4

And i went ahead and took pictures of the motherboard:

Motherboard Top: https://imgur.com/a/juHHvXq

Motherboard Bottom: https://imgur.com/a/x7QU5BH

Capacitors close up: https://imgur.com/a/rtsa2IR

None of them seem to be bulging or leaking, and the clock cap is a Nichicon cap (the golden ones) and it looks perfectly fine, the console was retaining the date without problems.

Motherboard Sides: https://imgur.com/a/xBjawQV

Power Suply: https://imgur.com/a/MsmdA9w

Same deal here, all the caps seem to be fine, no leaking or bulging.

So i'm not sure what else to check, any advice?

Thanks for your time, and let me know if I need to provide more info. Apologies for my grammar errors, English is not my first language.

[SakisTheDrifter]

Seems like a power supply issue to me. Remove it from your xbox and manually power it on(If it can be done,you must short its white wire to one of the ground wires(I havent done it thow,so make a research before you do it!!!!))then check with your multimeter if it stays on and if it does,if all of the voltages are correct. Wish you luck

[Gold171]

100 percent agree with Sakis. Perhaps there is something about your cable that could've damaged it? Otherwise wild coincidence. Best of luck to you.

[Guilleack]

Thanks for the replies, now that I saw my old threads here I remember that I had this issue once and it fixed itself by just leaving the console off for a couple of days.

My PSU is a Delta I suppose, about testing it how I should proceed, I should plug it into the wall and put the multimeter leads on the connector?

[KaosEngineer]

6 minutes ago, Guilleack said:

Thanks for the replies, now that I saw my old threads here I remember that I had this issue once and it fixed itself by just leaving the console off for a couple of days.

My PSU is a Delta I suppose, about testing it how I should proceed, I should plug it into the wall and put the multimeter leads on the connector?

 

Yes, you can connect the black (-) probe of the multimeter to one of the ground wires of the Power Supply Unit (PSU) connector or to the metal RF shield inside the console.  It is tied to the DC power supply ground inside the console.

First, measure the voltage level of the gray wire - the 3.3Vdc standby voltage - with the console off then see if it changes when you try to power on the console.  What readings do you obtain?

 

[Guilleack]

I continued to troubleshoot the console in this post a bit.

 

And from what I tested there is something wrong with my PSU

In Gray I get the correct 3.3V, White 3.3V when I press the power button just for a second, Blue stays at 0 even if I press the power button, Orange about 0.8V, Red about 4V, and Yellow to 8V.

Is there anything more to test? Or do you think that this PSU is toasted and I should try to find another one?

Thanks for your time.

[SS_Dave]

With the 20 pin plug disconnected from the main board link the white(PowOn) to the gray (3.3volt)

with the black lead of your meter in any of the black wires test the any of the Red wres and you should get 5 volt (4.5-5.5)

then any of the Orange wires and you should get 3.3 volt (3.2-3.4)

now the yellow should give 12 volt (11-13).

 

Cheers

SS Dave

Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

[SakisTheDrifter]

As you write,ALL of the voltages are low so i would suggest you tweaking them. In the front side of the psu there is a potensiometer. Turn it until the voltages are correct(dont know wich direction,make small adjustment each time since a fraction of a turn,can increase or decrease a whole volt). Good luck

[Guilleack]

22 hours ago, SS_Dave said:

With the 20 pin plug disconnected from the main board link the white(PowOn) to the gray (3.3volt)

with the black lead of your meter in any of the black wires test the any of the Red wres and you should get 5 volt (4.5-5.5)

then any of the Orange wires and you should get 3.3 volt (3.2-3.4)

now the yellow should give 12 volt (11-13).

 

Cheers

SS Dave

Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

I tried that and they still are lower than the expected voltages, the grey and white 3.3V still read as they should, the blue wire (PowOk) remains at 0.

3 hours ago, SakisTheDrifter said:

As you write,ALL of the voltages are low so i would suggest you tweaking them. In the front side of the psu there is a potensiometer. Turn it until the voltages are correct(dont know wich direction,make small adjustment each time since a fraction of a turn,can increase or decrease a whole volt). Good luck

If I do that would it change the value of the grey and white wires? I mean those two show 3.3V as they should.

[SS_Dave]

The PowOK is from the main board to tell the power supply that the standby power in good. it will read 0 volt when testing the way I posted.

If you are going to try adjusting the trim pot do it with the link from whit to gray and the PSU not connected to the Xbox, You have nothing to lose by trying and is the 5 volt and 3.3 volt supplies that are the main ones the 12volt is for the Fan and HDD so if you can get readings close to what I posted that will be fine.

I think because you mentioned before you have 0 volt on the PowOk with the PSU connected the problem is going to be the motherboard and not the PSU,

What happens if you try and power on the Xbox with both DVD and the Hard drive disconnected and also with no AV lead connected, so PSU and motherboard only.

 

Cheers

SS Dave

Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

[Guilleack]

Video: https://i.imgur.com/aRyVI25.mp4 this, but now the fan doesn't spins. Could it be a capacitor related problem?

[sinclairuser]

possibly caps, but i think its power supply, try another supply if you dont have an xbox one an atx supply is good to get the xbox running again while you get a new xbox supply.

[SS_Dave]

1 hour ago, sinclairuser said:

possibly caps, but i think its power supply, try another supply if you dont have an xbox one an atx supply is good to get the xbox running again while you get a new xbox supply.

 

On 2/21/2021 at 1:00 PM, Guilleack said:

In Gray I get the correct 3.3V, White 3.3V when I press the power button just for a second, Blue stays at 0 even if I press the power button, Orange about 0.8V, Red about 4V, and Yellow to 8V.

 

I suspect it's the main board as he said there is no PowOK (Blue wire) to the PSU, But trying a different PSU is not going to hurt.

 

Cheers

SS Dave

Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

[Guilleack]

Well after leaving it a couple of days now i tried to power it on again and the fan started to spin again for a second... (Like in the video that i shared before) I will try to test again the voltages and see if something changed. I could this be sign of a bad capacitor? Unluckily i don't have a way to obtain another PSU to test it with.

[SS_Dave]

Did you try adjusting the output to get the 5 volt supply closer to the right reading?

 

Cheers

SS Dave

Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

[Guilleack]

On 3/6/2021 at 5:17 PM, SS_Dave said:

Did you try adjusting the output to get the 5 volt supply closer to the right reading?

 

Cheers

SS Dave

Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

I just did, i managed to get the orange wire to 3.3 (it used to stay at 0) the red to 5v and the yellow wire to 10v ( it should be at 12v), the problem is that if i try to get the yellow wire to 12v the red wire goes over the 5V, another thing that i noticed is that if i get the pot a bit lower than i got it now the orange wire gets back to 0 and the red and yellow wire don't hold the voltage (they respectively get to 4.9v and 9v and start to drop slowly) If i leave it as i got it now they maintain the voltage. (Sorry if i'm not explaining this clearly enough)

And the wire (Pow_Ok) is still on 0... Should i push the pot more and try to get the yellow wire to 12v?  I mean would that be safe?

[SS_Dave]

10 volt on the yellow is fine.

The 0 volt on the PowOk is your problem, it means that the main board thinks there is a problem with the 3.3 volt standby.

As to what is wrong that's a good guess it could be a bad cap, damaged trace, bad solder joint, failed SMD resistor, failed PIC chip, failed crystal, failed transistor

The 1st thing is try a known working power supply then start comparing voltage reading's against a known working board of the same version.

 

Cheers

SS Dave

Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

[Guilleack]

Thanks, I will try to find broken traces and replace the caps (Unluckily where I live the console is very uncommon and Importing is a bit pricey).

Edited March 9, 2021 by Guilleack

[Guilleack]

Doing some inspection on the bottom of the PSU I found that white dot.

I'm not sure where I should test the continuity there.

[SS_Dave]

That is white paint and on a 240 volt version it's C505.

 

Cheers

SS Dave

Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

[Guilleack]

Ok seems that i'm all out of options, and I'd rather recap a known working one than recaping a PSU that might not work after all.

Which one of these would be compatible with my console (1.4v)?

[Guilleack]

Someone has an accurate list of capacitors for a 1.4V motherboard and a Delta DPSN-96BP PSU? (I have googled without much luck) At the moment i'm unable to import from console5, thanks for your time.

[sweetdarkdestiny]

I already had postet a list of all revisions of the boards and psu's here in the forum. Funny is, it's the list from the console5 tech wiki.

1.4 Motherboard

C1E1	3300uF	6.3v
C1G1	3300uF	10v
C1G3	22uf	25v
C1G6	22uf	25v
C2E3	EMPTY
C2E4	3300uF	6.3v
C2E5	EMPTY
C2F1	EMPTY
C2G2	22uf	25v
C3B2	100uF	25v
C3E2	3300uF	6.3v
C3F10	100uF	25v
C3F6	22uf	25v
C3G1	22uf	25v
C4F9	1500uF	6.3v
C4G1	100uF	25v
C4G4	22uf	25v
C4G8	22uf	25v
C5A4	680uF	16v
C5F4	100uF	25v
C5F5	22uf	25v
C5G1	100uF	25v
C6A10	10uF	16v
C6A11	10uF	16v
C6A4	10uF	16v
C6B4	10uF	16v
C6B6	10uF	16v
C6G1	22uf	25v
C6G2	100uF	25v
C6G3	100uF	25v
C7B2	47uF	16v
C7B5	22uf	25v
C7E2	1500uF	6.3v
C7F1	1500uF	6.3v
C7G1	3300uF	10v
C7G2	1F 	2.5v Clock Cap
C7G6	22uf	25v
C8C2	22uf	25v
C8E3	22uf	25v

Delta DPSN-96BP

C1	470uF	250v (100-120v)
C1	150uF	400v (240v)
C152	1000uF	16v
C302	2200uF	10v
C???	2200uF	10v
C???	2200uF	10v
C306	10uF	25v
C503	10uF	25v
C506	0.22uF	50v
C901	100uF	25v
C902	100uF	25v
C906	47uF	25v

 

[Guilleack]

Thanks a lot, about the caps I've heard that you only need to match the uf and you can use capacitors with a higher voltage in the case that you can't find the exact match is that true? (Example i only found 470uF 400V caps in my area and not 250V)

Edited March 22, 2021 by Guilleack