Guilleack

Thanks I'm glad I asked, I almost bought it. Can it be adapted to work with it?

Someone knows if this PSU will work on a 1.4 console? Mine is faulty and I saw that one for sale in my country (OG Xbox stuff is extremely rare here) Pics from the seller, thanks for your time.

Do you guys think that these are of the same quality of the Grey ones? Has someone tried these?

What kind of damage could this do to the console if one of the cables gets shorted with ground?

Thanks a lot, about the caps I've heard that you only need to match the uf and you can use capacitors with a higher voltage in the case that you can't find the exact match is that true? (Example i only found 470uF 400V caps in my area and not 250V)

Someone has an accurate list of capacitors for a 1.4V motherboard and a Delta DPSN-96BP PSU? (I have googled without much luck) At the moment i'm unable to import from console5, thanks for your time.

Ok seems that i'm all out of options, and I'd rather recap a known working one than recaping a PSU that might not work after all. Which one of these would be compatible with my console (1.4v)?

Doing some inspection on the bottom of the PSU I found that white dot. I'm not sure where I should test the continuity there.

Thanks, I will try to find broken traces and replace the caps (Unluckily where I live the console is very uncommon and Importing is a bit pricey).

I just did, i managed to get the orange wire to 3.3 (it used to stay at 0) the red to 5v and the yellow wire to 10v ( it should be at 12v), the problem is that if i try to get the yellow wire to 12v the red wire goes over the 5V, another thing that i noticed is that if i get the pot a bit lower than i got it now the orange wire gets back to 0 and the red and yellow wire don't hold the voltage (they respectively get to 4.9v and 9v and start to drop slowly) If i leave it as i got it now they maintain the voltage. (Sorry if i'm not explaining this clearly enough) And the wire (Pow_Ok) is still on 0... Should i push the pot more and try to get the yellow wire to 12v? I mean would that be safe?

Well after leaving it a couple of days now i tried to power it on again and the fan started to spin again for a second... (Like in the video that i shared before) I will try to test again the voltages and see if something changed. I could this be sign of a bad capacitor? Unluckily i don't have a way to obtain another PSU to test it with.

Video: https://i.imgur.com/aRyVI25.mp4 this, but now the fan doesn't spins. Could it be a capacitor related problem?

I tried that and they still are lower than the expected voltages, the grey and white 3.3V still read as they should, the blue wire (PowOk) remains at 0. If I do that would it change the value of the grey and white wires? I mean those two show 3.3V as they should.

I continued to troubleshoot the console in this post a bit. And from what I tested there is something wrong with my PSU In Gray I get the correct 3.3V, White 3.3V when I press the power button just for a second, Blue stays at 0 even if I press the power button, Orange about 0.8V, Red about 4V, and Yellow to 8V. Is there anything more to test? Or do you think that this PSU is toasted and I should try to find another one? Thanks for your time.

Thanks for the replies, now that I saw my old threads here I remember that I had this issue once and it fixed itself by just leaving the console off for a couple of days. My PSU is a Delta I suppose, about testing it how I should proceed, I should plug it into the wall and put the multimeter leads on the connector?

Hello a couple of days ago I was testing my newly built component cables (Before using them I tested everything with a multimeter and nothing was shorting and I was able to play with them and they looked great since I used shielded 360 cables so I don't think that the cable is the problem) on my Xbox and it was working perfectly fine, I restarted it a couple of times and I didn't have a single problem, today I tried to play again and I got stuck on the iND-Bios splash screen with the light blinking red and green with no change, it just gets stuck there. My Xbox is tsoped and I have installed a 320 Samsung hard drive with an IDE to SATA adapter and an 80 wires IDE cable (Properly insulated), the DVD drive mechanism is not in the best condition since it needs help to eject or insert itself sometimes but it reads discs perfectly fine when they get inside, I tried booting tru Hexen 2019 and the console kept ejecting it, I'm not sure if this is related to the bios stuck problem or the disc drive itself (I didn't have the need to use it for the last half of the year since the HDD was working perfectly fine and I didn't do any major changes to the dashboard/bios). Aside from that it was working without any problems and I didn't change any configs, I just played DOA 3 and Crazy Taxi 3. Now the console just doesn't turn on, I press the power button or eject and the fan spins one time and nothing happens. Video: https://i.imgur.com/aRyVI25.mp4 And i went ahead and took pictures of the motherboard: Motherboard Top: https://imgur.com/a/juHHvXq Motherboard Bottom: https://imgur.com/a/x7QU5BH Capacitors close up: https://imgur.com/a/rtsa2IR None of them seem to be bulging or leaking, and the clock cap is a Nichicon cap (the golden ones) and it looks perfectly fine, the console was retaining the date without problems. Motherboard Sides: https://imgur.com/a/xBjawQV Power Suply: https://imgur.com/a/MsmdA9w Same deal here, all the caps seem to be fine, no leaking or bulging. So i'm not sure what else to check, any advice? Thanks for your time, and let me know if I need to provide more info. Apologies for my grammar errors, English is not my first language.

Hello again, i just don't have any means to get an original controller. They are extremely rare on my country somebody told me that you can use the Xblast os tool with third party controllers but i can't find xblast os on the hexen disk, how i should proceed?

Amazing collection, can you post pictures of the 4 consoles at the bottom?

Those also need to be original to work? I saw a guy selling two of these near me but i'm not sure if they are original.

Thanks for the reply. I can use the XblastOS tool with other bioses? (I wanted to go with ND-BiOS.5004.67 ) About the usb adapter i don't have one at the moment.

Hello i have a xbox with a almost dead hard drive and a dvd drive that works barely. The previous owner performed a tsop very long ago and that's why i believe that i can boot to hexen without the hard drive, also i saw some solder residue on the pads to unlock the bios protection. (Cleaned the old solder and bridged the points again) I have a 1.4 with a Windbond and focus chip, the main problem that i have is that i can't move the options in the Gentoox because my only working controller seems to be a fake controller or at least the original pcb was replaced with a generic one, someone told me on the Xbox-hq forums that i can just drop the bios file on C:/Bios . Can i boot HEXEN and ftp the bios file from there? Also what bios do you recommend? I can't decide beetween evo m8 or iND-BiOS.5004.67 Thanks for your time.

Thanks, i know that the caps are good since i did your test and also i'm sure that the main reason the system boots rarely is that the hard drive is almost dead since sometimes it doesn't even starts to spin untill i give a tap top the top of the console.

I tried the console today and it turned on like it was working before... I didn't do anything to it, i will try to TSOP it as soon as i can to avoid any kind of bad bios and in the case that the hdd or dvd drive die.

Thanks for the reply, yes as you said i don't have video. I didn't do any kind of hard mod aside of changing the IDE cable and from what i see the motherboard doesn't looks like it has been hardmoded before, it's weird since yesterday was working just fine, it is softmoded and had some games loaded on the HDD (80 GB IDE). I will try to open it later and see if i spot any kind of damage again.

Again with problems i was playing yesterday without any problems, today i tried to turn on the console and looks like it tries to turn on three times and after that it starts to blink a red and green light... What can be the cause of this? Yesterday was working just fine, the fan was very quiet and the console didn't seem to be hot at all.