big F

I was just looking at my printer busy churning out another thing i “need”, and saw the post notification pop up and thought, at some point i need to design a cooler mount for some aftermarket coolers.

I wouldnt bother trying to solder on a new connector, the Arduinos can be bought on Aliexpress for sub $2 each. Just a matter of flashing the source file to it which can be done in Windows etc.

Who are you getting the boards from. I use PCBway and they are quite cheap. I often use Aliexpress for components, as quantity purchases can be better. But lead times can be long. I also use Lcsc.com

Nice find, even a dumpster find pc or laptop from 15 years ago is up to this task, linux is free so great.

I have one that does the same, oddly if i leave it unplugged over night it's normally ok. Im going to mod chip it at some point, as its still using a soft mod installed by The previous owner. Its a 1.6 so no TSOP for this one.

No not at all. I fact I did this some time back to a 100%. (Except for that) Xbox. That I have kept that way just because...

I would say blue, they do have slight purple hue though, some brands of LEDs are more obvious than others in that department

Yes simple as that. You can just pull it off and it’s legs will separate then just cut them off with side cutters and clean the area with iso and cotton buds.

Yes the corrode the board and have no actual function other than keeping the time when the power is disconnected. Since we cant use XboxLive, and most everyone has a modded dash, you can set the time on boot from the network or Internet. If you really must have time then swapping the cap for a CR2032 coincell and holder tied to a diode will do the same and last many months. Back in the day I did a test on Xbox Scene doing this with the cheapest of cheap CR2032 battery and it lasted nearly 6 months. There is a similar hack I do on Amiga computers that have the same problem.

Thanks for the info Chaosengineer I guess that most of us never change the dip switches now anyway so could get away with just jumping the connections and leaving the switch board not connected.

Im going to pull a few scrap laptops outta my collection and see what might be possible. My thoughts are could still use a standard fan but at a lower hight etc. laptop fans are noisy so a nice pc low noise fan would be better imo.

So I was looking back at some of my modding info I have saved from the net over the years. With regards of cpu and gpu coolers, we have all put larger fans on the stock coolers and 80mm fan mods. when dealing with a slim mod the way to go used to be one of the slim cpu coolers and fans that were touted around for pentium 3 cpus. These are getting scarce and when you do see one they seem to be a pricey for my linking. Anyone have any combos from more modern stuff that works in a similar way. P4 reference fans look the right size but obviously the clamp situation would need to be looked at.

Nice case, i did look at doing similar a few years ago but never did in the end.

An excellent no fuss Tutorial. Great edition to the forum. Thanks for sharing.

By our very own Ryzee. Looks like it might be worth a look

The quality of JLPCB work is great quick turn round too, they are also connected to another company where you can order the components as well. Ive ordered from them several times, and like PCBway they do have offers but usually only for first time orders, and you have to put the offer code in at the check out to get the discount. I’ve ordered from both without issues and will continue to do so. Ive binned all my home PCB making stuff now, its so easy to do just create the Gerber and up load, wait for a week or so and done, no nasty chemicals, messing with drills and saws, just straight up solder on and use.

I have several V1.0’s they work well and as stated above have the added gpu fan which can only help with emulators like Coin Ops demands. If the HD is making those kinda noises then its gonna buy the farm soon, so move that data while you can. You can mod both fans and the 80mm conversion is no more difficult on the V1.0 as any of the versions, and does make a difference provided you do your home work on which fan to buy, they are not all equal by a long way. Its all about CFU and Db. 70mm is not worth it unless its a “Rare” case where modding it would be similar to boil washing the Shroud of Turin. You can also add the extra ram nicely on the V1.0 to give it the extra poke that emulation really wants. FileZilla or FlashXp for the win, they are the only ones worth using. Also no need for a mod chip, so if ones fitted just TSOP it with the same bios and save the mod Chip for a 1.6 board where you have no choice.

You can get better fans for the GPU, several older type pc cpu coolers have things that will work, with a bit of modification.

Price is a bit rich for my tastes. That said back in the day I bought a Green case and smoke case which was part of a job lot of factory unused cases, they had no serial, stickers on like this one, so could be a standard unit thats been re-boxed maybe even from the same surplus stock.

Finally my much awaited solder masks have arrived and in the box is also my mask for the OGXbox360 boards. might actually get one made now

To be fair the correct route would be the latest version. That said if it worked 5 years ago it will still now, its not like the Xbox can see the internet and “decide” M$ style that you need to upgrade. Recently I used my Chimp disc from the early 2k’s and it worked just fine.

Bought a chat pad just for this game

A 128 only list would get my vote. Emulation is the only real reason to mem upgrade these days. How many of us use them seriously for media playback now with HD and TVs that support network payback.

Thanks for sharing this.

Some of the convertor cards will only run with an 80 wire cable.