N64 freak

This HDMI mod replaces the AV port completely and offers an HDMI port instead for convenience. The Installed HDMI mod does look like this: The HDMI mod does offer 5.1 sound through the HDMI port. If you don't need 5.1 (or your TV might not support it) you can simply disable 5.1 audio and get digital stereo audio instead. For those who want to add an optical output to there Xbox the HDMI mod does offer 3 solder points to add a TOTX178 optical transmitter. To get the HDMI mod installed you first need to get the AV-port removed. To get it removed you could either use a hot-air station or a heat-gun to remove it at once. But that would put a lot of thermal stress on the board! The better and recommended alternative is to disassemble the Port and remove it one part at a time. First desolder the Metal Tab holding it in place by heating them and prying the metal tab up to pull it out. When the metal tab is removed take a sidecutter and clip off all the pins from the video port as they are what keeps the Port in place. When they are clipped off you can take the port cover off by simply pulling it upwards. Next step is to remove the remaining plastic piece and desolder the rest of the pins and clean up the area a little. Position the first Adapter exactly as show in the photo. The red arrow marks the PTH that has to be alligned centered. Once Positioned solder all the marked points down and make sure they are properly connected before continuing with the second adapter! Next up is the second adapter. Just position it above the first adapter using the 2 big holes to allign them and solder down the marked points. Again check continuity before continuing with the next PCB! Last PCB is the HDMI mod itself. You need to position it slightly off centered on the second PCB. The HDMI ports pins will be position it correctly. Just solder down the points that are marked with the red arrows and the install is almos done! Last up is setting the Video mode. You need to add 2 small bridges on the bottom side of the PCB. Just solder in the 2 bridges and the video mode is set correctly! If you want to use the optical out you can easily add a toslink port to the HDMI mod by simply soldering a Transmitter to the 3 marked pins.

@neighbor You can order the PCBs from DirtyPCBs.

@obitus1990 Yes i do currently have 10 DIY sets avaylable for sale.

Decided to post about my ATX to Xbox adapters as i've been contacted about them a couple times now. I won't build more of them in the future as it's quite a time consuming process but you can order the PCBs and build them yourself. The bill of materials is printed on the bottom layer and assembly is pretty straight forward too. The solder work isn't hard to do so even a beginner is able to get it done! You can order the PCBs here: Rev1.0-Rev1.1 Rev1.2-Rev1.5 The ATX Port and Cables can be reused from a dead (or unused) Xbox PSU and motherboard. The end result might look like this 2 examples here:

@samspin I made a design for an ATX to Xbox adapter and that works just fine. The PicoPSU is a little weak for the Xbox. The 5V rail on the PicoPSU is a little weak for the Xbox. So at least for testing i would recommend to either use the original PSU or a standard ATX PSU.

I don't replace the stock ram and add the extra 64mb like anyone else does. If there is any interest i can source a couple of the QC-40 Ram chips and do a Board that also has the stock 64mb replaced. Would be interesting to see if that makes a difference compared to the stock QC50 ram. A 128mb Hynix Ram board would also be an interesting test subject here. Using an ATX adapter and a standard ATX PSU would definitely solve any PSU heating problems. Any ATX psu should be able to supply a lot more current and probably also a cleaner voltage than the cheaply built and ageing xbox psus. To get the FSB even higher the CPU probably needs better cooling and it might help to raise the CPU voltage a little.

Both boards sold!

Got 3 custom built NES Xbox controllers for sale. They are custom built and use the original controller cable, a new NES classic controller shell and work just like a regular official Xbox controller. Perfect for playing NES or Gameboy games on the Xbox! Price: 40€ each+shipping costs.

Got 2 Ram upgraded motherboards for sale. Both have the clock caps removed, have no signs of trace rot and have the IND5004 flashed to the TSOP. Both have the Ram cleanly upgraded to 128mb and are a drop in replacement for your current motherboard. International shipping does cost 20€ including tracking and insurace. Price: 70€ each (around 80US$) +shipping costs. Also attached a shot of the solder work so you see what you get.

@Ewok0815 That's quite simple you have to choose 1512Mhz. The DreamX while called DreamX-1480 in reality has a clock speed of 1512mhz! The DreamX option in the patcher probably has the wrong clock frequency set for it. @wikati His console does report 1512Mhz in system info. Depending on tolerances it does sometimes show up as 1508-1516Mhz and the shown value does sometimes change a little on every restart. You can see the same behaviour on a stock xbox too.

@Darthsternie If you can get the Ram upgraded you should not have any trouble with installing the internal HDMI mod! @Acidmank I will most likely offer them in a couple weeks when i built a few more. I will post them in the marketplace section once i have some ready.

I do offer NES and SNES controllers for the Xbox. They are custom built controllers that fit into the original controller shells.

I'm only doing the internal HDMI mod anymore. Can't keep up doing both the internal and external one at the same time! They do cost 70€ each and offer digital audio though the HDMI signal. There's a video linked in the original post that compares this mod to other cables.

They have the 5.1 audio channel integrated into the HDMI Signal. And you can easily add a toslink port with just 3 wires.

@NooB and @ironsniper1 I do have a couple for sale right now. Check my for sale thread!