All Activity

I would still try to clean up some of that solder if you have some desoldering braid. There’s just way too much on there. You can also try removing the d0 connection on the chip and grounding it to the pad marked in the picture. Then try to boot with eject. It does seem like the xenium may need reprogramming if you’re 100% sure all the connections are solid.

Not with XBPartitioner. It only supports formatting partitions up to 1TB using 64KB clusters. It doesn't have 128KB cluster support. At this time to format a larger partition supported by Cerbios, you must use FATXplorer 3.0 beta on a PC.

So, I can actually format my F partition to 2 TB? I can finally be rid of the dreaded Origins 50/50 split? No corruption?

XBPartitioner v1.3's maximum supported cluster size is 64KBs. For partitions larger than 1TB to 2TBs, 128KB clusters are required. 2+ to 4TBs 256KB, etc. Edit: For larger than 1TB partitions supported by Cerbios, use FATXplorer 3.0 beta on a PC to format it. You can toggle between the various partition configurations supported by XBPartitioner by pressing the A button. As far as I know, as long as you don't make any changes to partition's configuration, it is not formatted/re-formatted. Only partitions that have their configuration changed will be formatted. XBPartitioner's commands are shown on its Help page by pressing the Back button while on the Main screen. Image source: https://www.xbox-hq.com/html/modules.php?name=Xbox_Homebrew&op=show&id=281#screenshot

I would say that since your chip is not even powering on and handing off the bios, then that would lead to your HDD not even being able to be used in an unlocked state. I am not even sure where to begin diagnosing the chip, as I am not aware of a lot of ways to do so. You are unable to even get into XeniumOS.

Okay, I get it. Do you know if a typical ODE would be able to achieve the same end? Or maybe if some sort of switching could somehow be done? I would wanna keep the original drive to pass through to, but coming up with a replacement unit without firmware to look at to see how switching and everything was achieved would make it almost impossible to replicate. It would be great if you were able to retain use of the drive, but I would need to find a way to do the same kind of switching that the original card did... as well as source the "yellow cable" sockets. I'm not even sure if they would be necessary and if you would just be able to hook up the physical DVD drive straight to the motherboard. https://support.xilinx.com/s/question/0D52E00006hpmTDSAY/xilinx-spartan-xc2s50?language=en_US That FPGA requires firmware and a way to mount it to a PCB for the sole purpose of flashing. I think it would be very impractical to use original hardware. I am almost certain that the idea can be thrown out. If it is something worth pursuing, then there will need to be a dedicated ODE with a method of mounting a disc image or some sort of ISO structure that would simulate the disc. I think a PI, with software, would be the best bet. The NetPI looks interesting. https://www.retrotronics.org/home-page/netpi-ide/ https://hackaday.io/project/20774-netpi-ide (https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/ide-cdrom-drive-hardware-emulator.911/page-2) Found this on Ali: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806108236960.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt @neakmenter https://3do.dev/products/copy-of-ide-emulator-batch2 That's the result of what you linked before. @GoTeamScotch What do you guys think of this? I wouldn't pay that, and it still needs to interface with something on the PC side to allow for easy on-the-fly mastering... ideally anyway. ... I would really LOVE to have a DVT-4...

As far as history, it came to me not powering up. I installed a good power supply, and got to this point. it’s been twenty years since I worked with an Xbox mod. I installed an executed 3 in my son’s Xbox, and it’s still working fine. I’m not a professional at this for sure. I just need help on how to get this box up and running. Soldering seems fine, and header and D0 check out good in a continuity test. it seems that the Xenium mod is trying to boot hdd but stops. I need to know why is it hdd or mod? I know nothing of Hexen or any of the apps used now. I need a beginners tutorial of what I can do at this point, to eliminate and fix the problem. Thanks to all helping me.

There's really no need for that board if you don't intend to keep the dvd drive. The board's purpose is to act like a switch between the dvd drive and the emulator. When it detects a connection to the emulator board it switches to it. Otherwise it defaults to the dvd drive.

I thought it was old enough to be safe. But who knows, with their record.

Start a new thread for help please

The assets are Nintendo property and we all know what their ninja lawyers are like lol

Iam new here and seeking guidance as I messed up and cant find any resources. I have and og softmodded xbox rocky5. with the unleashed software. i was navigating through the apps and clicked on the one that said eeprom and it said initilizing unlocking hardrive . i freaked out shut off the xbox and now when i boot it up i get the error 5 code. im trying to figure ot how to lock it again i have windows 64bit and also ubuntu linux running computers and the USB HDD reader to connect it > i downloaded all the xboxHDM files but cant figure out how to navigate and send which files to what and how to do it or what steps i have to take from here.

Why PM?

As the title says... I have extracted the zelda3_assets.dat as instructed many times using various rom sources and upon running the game on my Xbox i am getting an Invalid Assets error? The extracted assets file works perfectly on the PS Vita version so I am not sure the assets are the issue here, hence my question.. HAS ANYBODY GOT IT WORKING ON THEIR XBOX?? I'm pulling my hair out lol If so, PM me pleeeeeease

I have things ready for Navi's Quest, but for some reason I cannot get the assets needed to make the Zelda 3 run without throwing an incorrect assets error I was hoping someone could pm me a working copy

Very good! where exactly did you connect the charger?

Here's the reddit post from a few weeks ago. And the github from that post. I haven't tried it. Did you see the message I sent about the other Zelda artwork?

So how did you end up fixing it? I installed the softmod and then tried the TSOP flash M8Plus. It is booting into the loop now.

The RAM chip on the top of the board, nearest to the AV port.... On the side oy that RAM that's closest to the AV port, there are two pins in the middle of that row that might have a spec bridging them. It appears that way in two separate pics....

Can someone link me to a working Zelda3 please? I want to take some screenshots for the artwork

If your chip is wired properly and it functions, you should be able to cold boot an installation disk like Hexen or similar. To be honest, that soldering looks rough.....

Added CelesteX artwork.

This code ain't good apparently. It looks decent but apparently it's no good for the engine to have this in it. Guess for loops aren't too bad after all?

You could use a raw copy mode in a PC based back up software. It will depending on version/software, create a back up file on another drive to then be used to make your clone, and then you write it to the new drive. Or the better option would be to clone straight to the new drive. The. You’ll have the 1Tb drive setup and contents on the 2Tb drive and should be able to then create aG drive with the spare space. I use Acronis, It does have the clone in place ability, and if it can al least recognise a file partition type it can expand the image onto the new drive. Not tried it that way as normally just straight up clone then create a new partition for the space. with some drive formats on older board controllers you can change the drive Type number so the card can correctly see and report the drive contents. That way the OS can see it and then the back up software also sees it. Use that method on Amiga and similar era hardware as there was no set type standard back then as everyone was still fighting it out. Amiga use type 76 and a few other computer types use 77 for example.

A brief history prior to repair would definitely be beneficial. As to the lpc some of those looked a bit off and one or two looked like cold solder joints. They can work though….right up until the point that they stop. Lol. I’ve seen it happen where many console or other electronic has worked for years with bad solder joints and then it up and stopped abruptly. Especially with poor or cold solder joints.