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johnyept

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  1. My XBOX is setup with Evox M8plus + BIOS Virtual Disc Patcher Loader + XBMC4Gamers. If I boot with the Patcher, the eject button resets the console. If I boot without the patcher, the eject button works normally. Is this a normal symptom or is the loaded BIOS missing the eject trick/fix?
  2. Well, mystery solved. Since I'm using ISOs instead of extracted folders, I'm loading Rocky5's BIOS Virtual Disc Patcher Loader before XBMC4Gamers, and that loaded BIOS either causes the eject button to reset by default or doesn't have the eject trick/fix. Just booting XBMC4Gamers makes the problem go away, so I'll ask about that in the correct topic. I also noticed that the original IDE cable doesn't work correctly with the 400GB IDE drive, which I thought only happened with sATA drives with a IDE adapter. Live and learn.
  3. I found a "M8plus pack v1.4.1 of the PBL Metoo Edition" which includes Metoo-M8plus_16-06.bin and Metoo-M8plus_16-06-EF.bin, readme file says: I'll try the 2nd one tonight, if the eject problem goes away, I'll try customizing it with EVtool to my custom setup to see if it breaks or keeps the eject fix. If it works, I don't mind posting a link to it in case someone else finds it useful. EDIT: this is a BFM (Boot From Media) BIOS, I don't think I'm supposed to flash it, but run it on boot?
  4. I used evox.m8plus.bin from TruHeXen 2021 and EVtool 1.0.9 to mod the BIOS, I don't see an option for an eject fix patch, but I did disable the DVD Drive Check in case I wanted to power up the XBOX without the DVD Drive later on. Could that be the problem?
  5. Well I solved the LED problem: I mistakenly reversed wires 3 and 4 on one of the ends, resulting in orange light. I resoldered the 4 wires and the LED problem went away, but now I created a new problem: the eject button sometimes resets the console... ARGH! When I went at it again, I noticed that the 4th trace doesn't need rewiring as it's working perfectly, so I resoldered the 1st 3 wires but the eject problem is still there... I'll look for bent pins in the plug later today and might take another go at resoldering, but if I can't figure out the problem I might as well leave as it is, since the eject button will have very little use. Every game I have has already been added to the console in ISO format, I also recreated the ISOs so they occupy less space using extract-xiso (some games might not like it, I'll check that later), and I even downgraded the 1TB sATA to a 400GB IDE with about 100GB to spare.
  6. That might explain it, as I did repair the traces. If I understand correctly, the XBOX doesn't have an orange light, it simply combines green and red LEDs to show that color, so a short would force both LEDs to light up whenever one or both of the LEDs are powered up. I'll check for shorts between the traces as soon as I can to confirm. Darn amateur soldering skills!
  7. When I said powered off, I meant completely cut off from the AC, but somehow the clock was remembering the last date/time. The timezone was also already set from within the Microsoft Dashboard. Anyway, I'm now using XBMC4Gamers as the default app/dash and it correctly sets date/time after booting, so it "kinda" solved the problem. I did notice another problem though: the led is always orange, I can turn it off from UnleashX or XBMC4Gamers but I can't change to another color. I reflashed the EvoX.M8+ BIOS with the color set to green but it's still stuck on orange... when it was softmodded I could change the color at will with UnleashX, I'm not sure why I can't change it now.
  8. Sorry for the late reply, been busy with other stuff. Just tried your settings for the SNTP but it doesn't update, even after reboot. Even weirder, the XBOX has been powered off for 2 days and although it has no capacitor, the clock was 11/9/2021 6:25, when current date/time was 13/9/2021 0:35, so it's not a timezone setting because it's over 24h. The version of Xbox HD Maker I used was the unofficial 2.3 beta3.
  9. I knew a good night sleep would solve the problem! I didn't noticed that Xbox HD Maker doesn't copy the files from the E folder to the E partition, so all I really needed was to install UnleashX using TrueHexen, backup C and E through FTP, and when I need to install a new HDD, I'll use Xbox HD Maker with the C folder I FTPed and backed up, plus option "4. Browse files on Xbox drive" so I can copy files over from E folder to partition E, taking note of the checkbox to also copy subfolders. I now have a backup of UnleashX configured to my likings, with TrueMSdash_2_Green skin, modded 5960 dashboard with Audio, plus a few apps including XBpartitioner 1.3 to merge F and G into one partition with 64k clusters. Now I only have one problem: the clock isn't setting itself, even with the Xbox connected to the net and the "Autoset Clock" option set to Yes...
  10. Thanks for all the input. Your suggestions gave me an idea: I connected the HDD to XBOX HD Maker again, went into disk explorer, deleted every file/folder, then installed UnleashX dashboard with TrueHexen's disc and set it as default. After that I used FTP to transfer the files from C and E to my PC and start the process all over again but this time with the files I FTPed. XBOX HD Maker forcibly wants a xboxdash.xbe in C so I copied evoxdash.xbe to xboxdash.xbe so it runs the copy process, then deleted it using disk explorer. I might have missed something because now the XBOX hangs at the startup logo with the Microsoft word at the bottom, but I was already very sleepy so I might have missed something. Will try again later today.
  11. Just checked and the version I used to TSOP was TrueHexen 2021, option "EvoX M8 plus F only". HD Maker 2.3 USB beta3 created F and G, the DVD also had "EvoX M8 plus F and G", does that make any difference? I have the retail 5960 zip from Rocky5 softmod, should I add that to C partition instead, softmod the console with the Splinter Cell save game exploit, then backup whatever files are in C and E partitions, or am I just over complicating things? I'm also not locking the drive, since the TSOP doesn't require it, and it remains unlocked after installing the dashboard from TrueHexen.
  12. I have 2 original XBOXes, one is v1.6 and I'll eventually add a modchip, and the other is a v1.2/v1.3. I finally got around to fix the corroded traces problem on the v1.2/v.13 by soldering 4 wires from a 80pin IDE cable, it looks much cleaner than using 4 stranded wires I added a used 1TB sATA HDD + IDE to sATA adapter + 80pin IDE cable and used Hexen 2018 or TruHexen 2021 (not sure which) which installed fine. BUT... I know the laser will eventually die and I want to have an alternative method of setting up an HDD, so I picked up a 2nd 1TB HDD and tried XBOX HD Maker 2.3 USB beta3, with the batch file modified to make it work with any connected HDD, not only USB. The steps I did were: - ran xboxhd.bat, option 2 (Launch xboxhdm), then within QEMU, option 1 (Build a new Xbox HD from scratch) - did NOT format partitions because it outputs "Error: out of memory" when formatting F: and then scrambles the entire output and menu, instead I went with option 3 (Format extended partitions on Xbox drive) + 4 (F and G splits space evenly), then 2 (Rebuild C-partition on existing Xbox-drive). When booting the XBOX with this HDD I get a blinking orange light and nothing on screen after the initial boot logo. If I use Hexen to install a Dashboard it works fine, so I know the HDD is correctly partitioned and formatted. The batch installs some files on the C drive, maybe these files are not the correct ones for a TSOPed XBOX?
  13. Great find! I found/bought a SmartJoyFrag for XBOX in March but unfortunately it didn't have any documentation. Many thanks for the PDF and the custom bindings I'm always searching for a SmartJoyFrag and/or Max Shooter for PS2/XBOX, if I'm not mistaken Max Shooter allows separate horizontal/vertical speed configurations for the mouse, otherwise both devices are identical in functionality.
  14. I myself had a really low res camera in my phone not so long ago, so I know where you're coming from. I'm in no hurry to get the manuals as I don't have any hardware for it (yet), but it would be annoying to buy it and not knowing how to use/program it... at least the photos of the Reference Guides were already a HUGE help! I've tried downloading the manuals for the XBOX/PS2's Max Shooters which are also photos from the manuals' pages and should be pretty much identical to the SmartJoy Frag manuals, but the links are long gone, even from Wayback. I've PMed someone which made a PDF from those pages back in 2009, but I'm not keeping my hopes up for a reply. http://web.archive.org/web/20080402034352/http://www.maxshooter.com/ps2.htm http://web.archive.org/web/20080322003159/http://www.maxshooter.com/xbox.htm I'm not into collecting stuff, just some M$/Nintendo/Sega/Sony consoles from 16-bit up that all fit into a (yet to be customized) KALLAX 4x2 shelving unit and a handful of games and controllers, but in this particular case I want it for both the collectible AND the experience. I've read somewhere else about that exact issue, that some games have different X and Y movements because they were designed with analog sticks in mind and ease of use, so not all of them translate correctly to mouse movements, but the same person also wrote that we "eventually get used to it", so I'm willing to give it a try! Now it's just a matter of waiting for one or both of the devices to pop up in an online marketplace in my country which might take between one day and a few years. Meanwhile I have a plethora of retro games in my backlog to keep me occupied while I wait!
  15. Thanks for the input! I found a video which luckily shows the Quick Reference card in detail here for the XBOX. The PS2 version is basically the same except for the control keys, but using the (blurry) image above they're easy to figure out. Knowing that, the only information missing is about the F1-F8 presets. How do they differ from the Standard Preset? Different keys? Different Deadzone settings? Does the manual explain these presets? If they're using different keys, I'm pretty sure they can be figured out using XBOX's Gamepad Tester (TestLaunch) or a similar PS2 App. If I manage to buy a SmartJoy Frag for each console, I'm pretty sure they will not include any manual, so when I have them I'll dig a little more into this and make a reference sheet for both consoles. For now, the keys below should be enough to start Advanced Features: Deadzone: [ESC] + [0] to [9] (0 = 0, 9 = 90) Fine Tuning with [ESC] + [+] or [-] Invert Mouse Y axis (up/down): [ESC] + [PgUp] or [PgDn] Swap Move and Look: [ESC] + [Ins] or [Del] Factory Default: [ESC] + [Ctrl] + [Alt] + [Del] Game Presets (PS2): F1=SOCOM II: US Navy SEALs F2=Medal of Honor: Frontline F3=Time Splitters 2 F4=James Bond 007: Nightfire F5=Tom Clancy's Rainbow Six 3: Black Arrow F6=Ghost Recon: Jungle Storm F7=Return to Castle Wolfenstein F8=REZ Game Presets (XBOX): F1 = Halo 2 F2 = Medal of Honor: Frontline F3 = The Chronicles of Riddick F4 = Counter Strike F5 = James Bond 007: Nightfire F6 = Tom Clancy's Rainbow Six 3: Black Arrow F7 = Return to Castle Wolfenstein F8 = Unreal Championship Other Presets: F11 = Blank Preset (for programming from scratch) F12 = Standard Preset (matches control key table) Use the Standard Preset (F12) for easy navigation through menus Control Keys (PS2): Left Stick: [W][A][S][D] Cross: [SPACE] Circle: [B] Square: [V] Triangle: [G] L1: [TAB] L2: [CAPS LOCK] L3: [Q] Select: [BACKSPACE] Start: [ENTER] R1: [R] R2: [F] R3: [E] D-Pad: [UP][DOWN][LEFT][RIGHT] Control Keys (XBOX): Left Stick: [W][A][S][D] A: [SPACE] B: [B] X: [X] Y: [Y] Black: [TAB] White: [CAPS LOCK] Left Trigger: [L] Right Trigger: [R] Left Thumb: [Q] Right Thumb: [E] Back: [BACKSPACE] Start: [ENTER] D-Pad: [UP][DOWN][LEFT][RIGHT] Programming: Hold [ESC] key, press the control key (see above), press the destination key or mouse button, release [ESC] key Saving: [ESC] + [F1] to [F8] overwrites original!

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