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Swapping Controller Wires - Duke and S?


C64MidRezzie
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Can I swap a cable from an official S controller and a Duke.  I can solder so was thinking I could open my Duke as the lead is snagged - still working perfectly.  I was planning on cutting the wire just inside both controllers and then soldering the non frayed wires from the 'S' to the Duke.  Has anyone tried this?  Should I just leave well enough alone?  Thanks

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you can swap the wires yep, the green wire on the duke controllers seems a bit more meaty, theres a white connector on the board and if you cut the legs off it with a sharp knife you can see the top of the pins that are going through the board, so you can solder directly to them, or join the wires if you like whichever you prefer.  as the old saying goes though 'if it aint broke.....'

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I have now plug my original black controller ( no duke) in a femelle port controller that output in usb male, and next, the usb male plug in usb femelle that output in male controller direct in xbox. And that work perfectly with the logitech dongle too. 

So there is a very big tolerance of compatibility with this console.

And the plug on the mother board for the cable controller is the same it's seem ( about them I openned) .

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any compatibility problems you will find 99% of the time lays squarely in the controler board itself, wires and buttons are pretty generic, so much so that i often save busted controlers as "parts" units, good cords good cases etc as you never know what parts you will need or can save from a bad unit

one of my fav controles is a clear aftermarket unit for the n64, its a BIG unit and fits my paws like a glove, ive stolen parts from OE controlers to keep it going as the stick tends to wear first and start "drifting"

the biggest issue ive ever run across in fact is USB cords not being "standardized", you will often find the same colors but not have them match polarity, nothing will get damaged it just wont function..i mention it because ive gotten into a new habbit of anything USB when the cord starts to die, i open up the device and cut and mold the end plug into the unit so your left with a usb "nub" and then i buy generic usb extension cords, theres a couple bonuses here, 1 if the cord dies you grab another cord, big deal, and since its almost always the cord within the first 6 inches of the device this issue is eliminated permanently, the other bonus is the "trip & snag"..weve all triped yanked and snagged on usb cords, if this happens the cord simply pops out with no damage to anything...the trickiest thing to do it on is mice as there is useualy no room..another bonus is packing stuff up unplug, coil and box
 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

What is the black plastic thing on the controller cable and do i need it?

I have the old type xbox controller, and the cable is damaged just outside the controller

In order for me to resolder the cable it seems I need more lenght, is it possible to remove the aformentioned plastic thing near the controller?

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7 hours ago, JohanSweden said:

I mean the cylindrical shaped plastic thing on the cable like one inch from the controller 

noise / data interference suppressor sleeve, a ferrite tunnel found on a lot of types of data cables like USB cables and flat ribbon cables

https://www.jaycar.com.au/u16-ferrite-voltage-spike-protectors-noise-suppressors-pk-4/p/LF1292

it will work without but interference on the cable will cause message lost or resend/slow down therefore highly recommended to keep the ferrite sleeve close to one end of the cable.

on some cables the sleeve is weakly glued on and can be heated a bit and slowly worked to move along the cable if needed

Edited by corona2222
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