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About sh0rtlife

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  1. imo do nothing with it but use it as a display..beeing so rare id want to keeep it in as pristine condition as possible
  2. you can actualy use a few things for rust.... but let me be crystal clear here, unless the rust is STOPPED and no moisture of any kind ever gets around it..it WILL rust again...i deal with rust on an almostr daily basis rebuilding old cars, and your painted tins can still be rusting under cheep rattle can paint while you can rattle can over them and get lucky....for now...its not a fix its a bandaid, sure that bandaid in a home may work fine for 10+ years but it can also fail in weeks if you have AC or a humidifier in the home in the case of delicate console tins i would grab some "evapo rust" (lots of other options here), then take a good look at what the surface looks like afterwords, heck even on a crystal you could save trashed tins with some "effort", if your hell bent on just painting them, sand, wipe with laqure thinner, then shoot with EPOXY PRIMER or some form of "engine paint" ...rustolium is NOT a rust proofer by anymeans and is...garbage
  3. better question, what are you using for output cables?..it could actualy be the cables not telling the box to display a higher res and basicly "locking out" of higher res, this was an issue i had check all your settings and config, if it all comes out clean then try other cables, "IF" your using a pound link, and you got it off amazon, contact pound directly and see if they will exchange your old one for a new one...amazon is sitting on a HUGE batch of "old version" and wont send them back to pound for updating/replacement
  4. sounds like you had a router that was just choking the connection..typical of service provider junk..its why i dont use them, nothing but netgear in here!!!! as far as file transfers go, let me make a few recommendations, that i learned the hard way a nas drive is great but will generate a TON of heat when cramming a ton of data onto it...BIG FAN needed, i had the best luck after killing some drives, to use a 4 bay "tray" from a pc case with the drive mounted in the center, and a 120mm fan running on 12v blowing across it thru the cage as a air tunnel "chunk by chunk" is most reliable..ie all of a-b then b-c etc, this will also allow you to keep tabs on the space left on the 1tb partition and plan accordingly too many files at once "may" shut down the drive, bug out fatx, or bog your machine down into doing alot of corruption that you wont find out till later for absolute best results, transfer no more than 50-100 games at a time, the more you do at once the higher your chances of a "fault" of some kind, yes..im aware this is kinda a pain, but its a bigger pain to do say A-H only to have an issue at some point so you start over...admittedly i pushed my luck and dis entire alphabetic leters of games but ran into issues sometimes causing me to re-do the whole set again...the bigger issue i found was after you did say A-F that fatx would start to slow and chunk around, and get slowly less stable, a reboot was the only way to fix it..was it fatx or the machine i was using..dunno but probably both... thats my take on it anyway, its better to do it semi slow in controlled groups than to just grab stuff n walk away
  5. yeah that new hdmi full digital is my next buy, that thing is slick, full digital with no hicups..its perfection imo honestly the box after a ton of work is clean and fully functional just..only on bank2, and i REALLY dont want to start over, so if i can fix it without a "clean start" then im game, but if ive gotta do it all again..screw bank 1 LOL what i do miss with the previous setup was if it failed to boot id get a red texted screen that there was an error and it would allow FTP and nothing else, was a nice "failsafe" of sorts
  6. i too have killed far tooo many ssd's to trust them, honestly the only drives i trust now are the hitachi/hgst "nas" drives, and at 40$ a pop for refurbs off amazon..its impossible to go wrong ive actualy got a truck i tore apart about 15+ years ago im just finnaly being able to get back to..so be thankfull you still have all your pieces! dave, whats this about a dual flash of bank1/2..would this fix my "no boot" from bank1?
  7. you can grab 3tb drives "refuerb" off amazon for 40$, go for the NAS hgst/hitachi, they are about as bulletproof as they come
  8. i often build cars from almost scratch, so ..its not so much too much time so much as too much ingenuity and problem solving...i see a known problem and look for a permanent fix thats "easily serviced dave what about instead of just a slim cell out back it was a lipo cell that the x COULD charge, thus it should be able to be unpluged for extended periods and the x could charge it as needed, it would need a BEC on it from a high end rc car but those are dirt cheep, this would cut the voltage of over/under volt
  9. i acutaly modified a bit of abs plastic as a spacer at the drive, but that section under the warning label i opened up to get more airflow over the drive, it dropped it almost 5c without raising the fan speed or having the cpu/gpu temps go up thatss a real nice ribbon cable, the one i had in there was a a fine length but with all the connectors flopped ment extra bends n folds, what i need to do is dig out my PC junk boxes and find some good long ribbons and re-arange the connectors for optimal routing, altho the one im using now with the "split" for tubing setup ment i was able to stuff the entire cable under the center cable keeper
  10. good call on those crappy pinch connections, i didnt even spot those, seems like it was those AND the ribbon, i just tore apart one of the "case mod" cables from back in the day trhe ones with rubber tubing and boots on the ends...its a lil long but due to it being "multi ribbon" it fits SOOO much better than a plain ribbon
  11. ok i need a lil advice, thanks to dave ive got my ole rig up and running, everything works like a champ save for bank1..which doesnt seem to really matter anyway everytime i put the top case on..error 13....so im figureing its the cable, the adator or the power, but, how does one trouble shoot it. ive now cut down the y splitter that came with the adapt board now its nice and neat lil 1inch 4pin molex to mini 4pin, ive went thru and "tweaked" the stock box connector pins for a little tighter connection, so im fairly certain its not a power cabling issue..in fact my adapt cable is soldered , the ribbon cable is as new as the adapter..a month maybe less no top boots fine every time, if i start fiddling with it it may or may not boot, im leaning tward it being a cable issue
  12. 10 years eh..sounds like how long my box has been in storage....just got it fully revived today, only thing not working is bank 1 with a 2.6ce just remove the clock cap and leave it gone, you probably got lucky on the clock cap like i did...it hasnt seen power in soooooo long that it didnt splooge all over the board, in fact ive got a couple that have all been sitting that long and the clock caps in every one of em look fine....mine actually was still functional-ish atleast youve been gone long enough to now be able to swap to sata and get a real big drive in it
  13. pull the drive , hook to pc, run fatx, and have a look at the config files , maybe update the dash files as well
  14. posts like this make me happy ive never tryed hexen
  15. any compatibility problems you will find 99% of the time lays squarely in the controler board itself, wires and buttons are pretty generic, so much so that i often save busted controlers as "parts" units, good cords good cases etc as you never know what parts you will need or can save from a bad unit one of my fav controles is a clear aftermarket unit for the n64, its a BIG unit and fits my paws like a glove, ive stolen parts from OE controlers to keep it going as the stick tends to wear first and start "drifting" the biggest issue ive ever run across in fact is USB cords not being "standardized", you will often find the same colors but not have them match polarity, nothing will get damaged it just wont function..i mention it because ive gotten into a new habbit of anything USB when the cord starts to die, i open up the device and cut and mold the end plug into the unit so your left with a usb "nub" and then i buy generic usb extension cords, theres a couple bonuses here, 1 if the cord dies you grab another cord, big deal, and since its almost always the cord within the first 6 inches of the device this issue is eliminated permanently, the other bonus is the "trip & snag"..weve all triped yanked and snagged on usb cords, if this happens the cord simply pops out with no damage to anything...the trickiest thing to do it on is mice as there is useualy no room..another bonus is packing stuff up unplug, coil and box

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