sh0rtlife

you do NOT need a clean room to do the platter swap just a clean "box" just like a sand blasting cabinet just clean instead, first one i ever did was out of scrap bits of steel and plexiglass with glued in dish washing gloves..it was crude but it worked

id like to see it with all of its lighting off to get a better feel for its guts, i too am curious of what kind of numbers your getting

can you recommend a native 720 game(thats not sports related) so i can use it for verification?

55inch visio running thru a Yamaha TSR-7850 is the setup, i just swapped out the head unit as the old yamaha was having issues where the sound would simply cut out and never come back now heres the deal, the xbox is running xbmc4gamers, the gui and all interfaces are displaying at 100% full screen , however the games so far everything ive tested looks "squished" and has "side boxes", ALL settings are set at 720@16,9@widescreen, yet im still getting the side boxes, im not so sure i had this issue with the previous head unit and if it wasnt such a massive PITA to swap them out i would i know on the full mod wii i had the same issue but i dont remember how i solved it....but i know part of the issue required me runing it directly to the tv instead of thru the head unit so what am i doing wrong to only have the side boxes when games are loaded but not when the main gui is running?..a setting im overlooking..but where is it?...or were these always there and i simply didnt notice till today?..whats got me puzzled and confused the most is that the entire gui has no black bars only the games.... im also running thru the newest version of pound link HDMI which after talking with customer service i got a guy to send me out the newest version and the quality has been stellar after the past few months of life changes going down multiple surgerys within the imidiate family and a cancer pop up that resulted in amputation my brains fried i just need some vegitative gaming state without issues

i was hoping i could get away with not locking it down just so i had unrestricted access to everything, but after this lil hicup im thinking i m just going to lock it down ...still curious as to what happened, the only thing i can think of is either a udat folder had a minor corruption or somehow managed to lose permissions, which would make more sense with the error it was spitting out

i can ftp in just fine, tryed that dave and it didnt fix it either but was worth a shot and it let me get rid of the extra BS accounts id made trying to bypass the issue now heres the fun bit, so i was reading thru default.py to understand exactly the where/why of the problem, and ive not touched "code" since before the days of the internet..way before dialup was even a thing, so my understandings is rudimentary at best, and was something i learned on both a TI-994A as well as later a "lobo" home computer with 12inch floppys anyway i noticed its pointing at an issue overwriting "udat" files or making new ones..not really sure but the "line 79" is udat stuff..so as an experiment i copied all the entire UDAT file to my pc then deleted it on the box, fired it up and problem gone..along with all my saves the problem was gone, ZERO issues everything functioning as it should....but my saves...so i ftp'ed back in again tossed all of the UDAT file in over top of what had newly been created and saves returned and issue still gone so i fixed it, but i worry this isnt a permanent fix....and have no clue as to what "caused" the issue...so if anyones got some insight on what i did vs whats going on../..im all ears, but at the very least if it happens to someone else heres a quick fix that worked this time

nope cant load ANY profile even a fresh one

ok...im clearly in over my head and cant make heads or tales out of it,..ive got ZERO desire to re-do a full 2tb drive someones gotta know something...here is a view of the log so it doesnt need to be d/l'd

im trying my best to understand the log file, but it "looks" to me like the issue is E:\xbmc\system\scripts\XBMC4Gamers\default.py" if thats the case can i just copy it from another location and replace it?

everything's been solid for some time now save for a couple of games that simply refuse to work and im ignoring them....., so my wife created a new profile to use instead of using mine so she could set faves and such...seemed like a good idea....but now, no profile works...so im stumped "script error"script failed xbmc4gamers" then it pops up a message on the bottom left of the screen "error script is missing or taking to long to finish, please send me a copy of your xbmc.log file " i assume the log file thats needed is the /E/xbmc/system..if so..its attached. xbmc.log

green n white is an odd combo, green n black ALWAYS works still clean lookin rigs

imo do nothing with it but use it as a display..beeing so rare id want to keeep it in as pristine condition as possible

you can actualy use a few things for rust.... but let me be crystal clear here, unless the rust is STOPPED and no moisture of any kind ever gets around it..it WILL rust again...i deal with rust on an almostr daily basis rebuilding old cars, and your painted tins can still be rusting under cheep rattle can paint while you can rattle can over them and get lucky....for now...its not a fix its a bandaid, sure that bandaid in a home may work fine for 10+ years but it can also fail in weeks if you have AC or a humidifier in the home in the case of delicate console tins i would grab some "evapo rust" (lots of other options here), then take a good look at what the surface looks like afterwords, heck even on a crystal you could save trashed tins with some "effort", if your hell bent on just painting them, sand, wipe with laqure thinner, then shoot with EPOXY PRIMER or some form of "engine paint" ...rustolium is NOT a rust proofer by anymeans and is...garbage

better question, what are you using for output cables?..it could actualy be the cables not telling the box to display a higher res and basicly "locking out" of higher res, this was an issue i had check all your settings and config, if it all comes out clean then try other cables, "IF" your using a pound link, and you got it off amazon, contact pound directly and see if they will exchange your old one for a new one...amazon is sitting on a HUGE batch of "old version" and wont send them back to pound for updating/replacement

sounds like you had a router that was just choking the connection..typical of service provider junk..its why i dont use them, nothing but netgear in here!!!! as far as file transfers go, let me make a few recommendations, that i learned the hard way a nas drive is great but will generate a TON of heat when cramming a ton of data onto it...BIG FAN needed, i had the best luck after killing some drives, to use a 4 bay "tray" from a pc case with the drive mounted in the center, and a 120mm fan running on 12v blowing across it thru the cage as a air tunnel "chunk by chunk" is most reliable..ie all of a-b then b-c etc, this will also allow you to keep tabs on the space left on the 1tb partition and plan accordingly too many files at once "may" shut down the drive, bug out fatx, or bog your machine down into doing alot of corruption that you wont find out till later for absolute best results, transfer no more than 50-100 games at a time, the more you do at once the higher your chances of a "fault" of some kind, yes..im aware this is kinda a pain, but its a bigger pain to do say A-H only to have an issue at some point so you start over...admittedly i pushed my luck and dis entire alphabetic leters of games but ran into issues sometimes causing me to re-do the whole set again...the bigger issue i found was after you did say A-F that fatx would start to slow and chunk around, and get slowly less stable, a reboot was the only way to fix it..was it fatx or the machine i was using..dunno but probably both... thats my take on it anyway, its better to do it semi slow in controlled groups than to just grab stuff n walk away

yeah that new hdmi full digital is my next buy, that thing is slick, full digital with no hicups..its perfection imo honestly the box after a ton of work is clean and fully functional just..only on bank2, and i REALLY dont want to start over, so if i can fix it without a "clean start" then im game, but if ive gotta do it all again..screw bank 1 LOL what i do miss with the previous setup was if it failed to boot id get a red texted screen that there was an error and it would allow FTP and nothing else, was a nice "failsafe" of sorts

i too have killed far tooo many ssd's to trust them, honestly the only drives i trust now are the hitachi/hgst "nas" drives, and at 40$ a pop for refurbs off amazon..its impossible to go wrong ive actualy got a truck i tore apart about 15+ years ago im just finnaly being able to get back to..so be thankfull you still have all your pieces! dave, whats this about a dual flash of bank1/2..would this fix my "no boot" from bank1?

you can grab 3tb drives "refuerb" off amazon for 40$, go for the NAS hgst/hitachi, they are about as bulletproof as they come

i often build cars from almost scratch, so ..its not so much too much time so much as too much ingenuity and problem solving...i see a known problem and look for a permanent fix thats "easily serviced dave what about instead of just a slim cell out back it was a lipo cell that the x COULD charge, thus it should be able to be unpluged for extended periods and the x could charge it as needed, it would need a BEC on it from a high end rc car but those are dirt cheep, this would cut the voltage of over/under volt

i acutaly modified a bit of abs plastic as a spacer at the drive, but that section under the warning label i opened up to get more airflow over the drive, it dropped it almost 5c without raising the fan speed or having the cpu/gpu temps go up thatss a real nice ribbon cable, the one i had in there was a a fine length but with all the connectors flopped ment extra bends n folds, what i need to do is dig out my PC junk boxes and find some good long ribbons and re-arange the connectors for optimal routing, altho the one im using now with the "split" for tubing setup ment i was able to stuff the entire cable under the center cable keeper

good call on those crappy pinch connections, i didnt even spot those, seems like it was those AND the ribbon, i just tore apart one of the "case mod" cables from back in the day trhe ones with rubber tubing and boots on the ends...its a lil long but due to it being "multi ribbon" it fits SOOO much better than a plain ribbon

ok i need a lil advice, thanks to dave ive got my ole rig up and running, everything works like a champ save for bank1..which doesnt seem to really matter anyway everytime i put the top case on..error 13....so im figureing its the cable, the adator or the power, but, how does one trouble shoot it. ive now cut down the y splitter that came with the adapt board now its nice and neat lil 1inch 4pin molex to mini 4pin, ive went thru and "tweaked" the stock box connector pins for a little tighter connection, so im fairly certain its not a power cabling issue..in fact my adapt cable is soldered , the ribbon cable is as new as the adapter..a month maybe less no top boots fine every time, if i start fiddling with it it may or may not boot, im leaning tward it being a cable issue

10 years eh..sounds like how long my box has been in storage....just got it fully revived today, only thing not working is bank 1 with a 2.6ce just remove the clock cap and leave it gone, you probably got lucky on the clock cap like i did...it hasnt seen power in soooooo long that it didnt splooge all over the board, in fact ive got a couple that have all been sitting that long and the clock caps in every one of em look fine....mine actually was still functional-ish atleast youve been gone long enough to now be able to swap to sata and get a real big drive in it

pull the drive , hook to pc, run fatx, and have a look at the config files , maybe update the dash files as well

posts like this make me happy ive never tryed hexen