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Hey everyone, I'm new here. I have two OG Xboxes. The first I bought pre-softmodded and which cannot be turned off by the power button, I gather because a trace was eroded; I did take out the clock cap and cleaned it up, however. And the second I softmodded myself as a project because a guy was giving it away for $5. This one doesn't have power/tray eject button problems, however, it did start to make a buzz (the HDD?) or loud fan noise before this happened, but I'm not sure if that's normal for this model. Yesterday it died on me as I was playing a game, for the first time. I took it off power and gave it a rest and then tried again, and it died after a few seconds. Now it doesn't turn on at all. I did some research and given that this one never seemed to have leaked capacitor fluid, and given the caps all over are fine, no swelling, I think it must be the power supply. I thought I would check with you guys first, as I am not very computer savvy and if all I have to do is solder these, I'm not sure I could do it myself tbh, or if it would be cheaper to just hire someone who already has the tools and know how. But I need to know if these are indeed the culprit.

I recently got an Xbox v 1.1 and it worked for about a week. After cleaning it up and testing a few points to make sure things like caps didn't need replacing my psu stopped giving power to all the lines except the purple 3.3v line. It randomly let's me power it on and one of two things happen: 1.) The green light powers on for a second or two and then it shuts off. 2.) It flashes orange for about 2-5 seconds before powering off. It isn't consistent and only lets me power it on randomly. Any pointers on where to start looking on the psu before I start taking things apart further? Or is it possible it could be due to a fault on the main board that you guys know a little about?

Hey guys! I have recently added a DVT4 to my collection , It is a 110v unit however I live in Australia and we use 240v AC here, Typically with my Japanese consoles I just switch the PSU out but in this case even tho I am 99% sure this is just a normal 1.0 PSU, While I take it apart today can I replace the 110v PSU with a 240 V PSU? I have one on hand I can steal from another console and replace! If any one who has experience with the DVT4 and could let me know if the PSU is the same that would be much appreciated I figure its better to be safe than sorry with something of this rarity and comparing the 110v vs a 240v well is ofc useless as they aren't the same .

I just tried to power up a 1.6 crystal, and nada, so I checked the PSU, and there's nothing on the 3.3V standby. I CBA faultfinding, as the parts with shipping will likely cost as much as a PSU, so I need a PSU for a 1.6. .. does anybody have one? Cash (PayPal) or exchange for 1.0 - 1.1 PSU. Also need an OLED OpenXenium with daughterboard, if anyone has one. I'm in Ireland.

Has any one really had a look for the differences between the 110 and 220 volt supplies. I have started comparing a Jap PSU (100-127 volt) to a Aus PSU (220-240 volt) and so far the two main differences is the Aus spec has a extra power filter on the AC input and the Jap version has a hidden link under the main power filter The part with the red star is on the 220 volt and on the 110 volt there is a link at the red arrow The blue arrows are the only difference I have seen so far as far as the different input voltage and the link is doing the same as a universal Xbox PSU I have that has a 110/220 switch. It is looking like you could add a link to make a 220v into a 110v or remove it to make a 110v into a 220v version. https://imgur.com/a/g5nWjqw Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

Found the pin out https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/index.php?/topic/24-xbox-power-supply-pinouts/ So I need to bridge white to black, think it's a 1.6v But do I also need to bridge blue to black to keep it powered on? It's going to power one fan for a 3D printer using the molex connector

Hello everyone, my name is Vitalij and I am from latvia ! I have two xbox v1.1 and v1.6 in 1.1 dump of something (red-green light), but fully working power supply and 1.6 working, but the mosfet burned out in the power supply. Is it possible to make a 1.1 to 1.6 PSU, can there be a complete manual or something? I found a guide showing how to make from 1.1 to 1.2-1.5, but as I understand it, this does not work for me. Could you please help with this? Then I saw the topic

Hello everyone I have been working on a slim xbox build and have it 95% working the way it should with some off the shelf parts that are not the pico psu. The only sticky issue that is pretty minor is the switched power requirements. I don't really understand electronics that well past what I call a "blackbox" understanding. You know, I understand that the boards I use say they will take a certain voltage in and output whatever but no knowledge to build a more complex circuit for switching the reset line for the smc. I am using a meanwell psu that is rated for 5v20A that you can find in a lot of places on the internet. Then I am using two boards from Pololu. One to step up the voltage to 12v:https://www.pololu.com/product/2568 and another to knock the 5v down to 3.3v https://www.pololu.com/product/4090 I was wondering if you all could help me with a schematic or some understanding of how to switch on and off the 3.3v signals to help reset the smc. I have some idea that you could use some transistors maybe to accomplish this but I am not super sure. The goal here would be to use the above boards in custom pcb for future slim xbox builds. Sorry if this isn't super clear Here is the picture of my install and somewhat self evident why it could be better looking

Have a NTSC xbox 1.0 console but live in Italy here is the 220v current,you can mod the PSU to 110v to 220v? at the moment use a step down converter and works fine.

This is going to start out as just being copied directly over from my thread on BitBuilt about the project. https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/xboxpsu.3387/ The xbox has some mildly odd power requirements. It uses the same 20 pin Molex MiniFit Jr connector that an ATX PSU output, however the pinout is completely different. As it stands, the typical solution is to use a PicoPSU, a small ATX PSU, a modify it to work with the original xbox. PicoPSUs can be had for around $15, the power supplies for them can be had for around $10. It's a very inexpensive solution. Traditionally when this is done, the Power OK and Power On lines are ignored, the PSU is set to always on, and the wires are run all catywumpus to get to where they need to go. While this solution works, it's definitely a hack, and I believe we can do better. So what are the xbox's actual power requirements? While I haven't actually cut up a power supply and tried to get the xbox to full load while measuring the current draw, I have a V1.1 PSU here that handily has the power requirements right on the label. Max Output Power: 96W DC Output: +5V -- 13.2A +3.3V -- 4.8A +12V --1.2A +3VSB -- 0.045A I hope it's safe to assume that further revisions of the xbox had similar or lower power draw. Regardless, this seems like a good starting point. So, how do I plan to accomplish this? With 4x LM2678 Regulators from Texas Instruments. http://www.ti.com/product/LM2678 Why 4 regulators for 3 voltages? The LM2678 is a 5A regulator. I need 13.2A on the 5V line. Having looked at the specs for the PicoPSUs that seem to work just fine, they're rated for 8A on the 5V line. This leads me to believe that 10A should suffice, so I'll need two regulators for 5V. I'll also need a 12V regulator, as I plan to run this off of an easily obtainable laptop power supply rather than needing to source an 8A 12V supply. I will also be designing a smaller footprint alternative that runs off of 12v for when space is of the highest concern. I'll likely also break down the xbox's power requirements even further at some point to see if I can't design a PSU that allows for aggressive trimming, but that's much further down the road. -------------------------------------------- I've designed the first iteration of the 24v board, it's 60*32mm. Now that it's done, I don't like it for a variety of reasons. I'm going to try again, putting the low profile components on the backside of the board and the tall components on the topside of it. Maybe I'll be able to squish it down a bit more in the process. -------------------------------------------- There, that's a little better. 27.5*49.25 mm -------------------------------------------- Oh, hey, I worked on this a bit. I ditched the 12v regulator and changed it to 12v in. I also had to source different inductors, which are sadly larger, so the whole board got a couple of mm wider in the process. 26.5mm*57.2mm I think I'm gonna actually order this one, and see if it works. -------------------------------------------- I've since looked at the most recent revision and noticed a couple of flaws in it. I've repaired those flaws, and I'm gonna sleep on it again, look at it with fresh eyes tomorrow, and probably order it.

Hey guys, i' got this 1.6 PSU that seems to be turning the 12v line OFF after some time until it stops feeding it at all. The PSU was burned and repaired by other than me. It seems to be working perfectly, as i made a jumper from the 12v capacitor and it does indeed boot and work for hours, so it must be some component that's responsible for turning off the 12v line on it that is shorted or not operating properly. The thing is, i can't see any damaged component. All the other lines do work and the power button does seem to function. I've been trying to track what component turns off the 12v line when i turn off the console, but to do that i'd need a spare 1.6 PSU which i don't have at the moment. It's a Delta PSU by the way. I've made another post on this forum about the issue but it was in the wrong section. Also i didn't had a clue about what was making the PSU turn off until i found it was the 12v line.

Hey guys, I'm trying to find the problem of this Delta psu, it's a us 110v psu. I turn it on, and after some time the console turns off. If I try to turn it on again, it does, but it turns off in a shorter time. It goes like this until it doesn't turn on anymore. If I unplug it and wait some time, it goes back to working until it decides to turn off again. I've checked all caps and all seems to be in working condition. This psu has been repaired before by someone else before I got my hands on it, the fuse has been replaced and the old varistor left some black fumes around it. There isn't any visible damage on the components. Any tips? I just noticed I created the thread in the wrong section. Sorry about that

Hey guys, I'm an American that has lived in Europe for 10+ years. When I initially came over, I brought along my original xbox console and had a lot of fun with it until I made the mistake of plugging the 110v system into a 220v outlet without a transformer... Dumb, I know but now I want to fix it. This console is a circa 2004 Halo Edition so it would be a real shame to toss it. I received a used PSU from Ebay (a Foxlink) and modified the plug in order for it to work following a great article from this forum : Thanks Xbox Admin, this article was really helpful. I unfortunately couldn't get the console to power on even though everything was hooked up. So my question is, does anyone know if the there's a possibility that I managed to damage the whole console beyond repair? Should I pull the trigger on another (and correct Delta PSU this time) to try fixing it again? If anyone has any advice I would love to hear it. Thanks!

So this is my struggle, I bought a japanese Sega Saturn model 2 more than a year ago. The power switch on it came completely destroyed. No refunds for me, because it wasn't the seller fault, etc. After 1 year of procrastinating, I tried to fix my Saturn. And believe it or not, I found the part I was looking for to fix the power switch!! I could not believe it, because I live in Chile, near the south pole, and an old tech geezer had the part I was looking for! I was so happy! I fixed it, so I thought, but I came down with the reality that now the PSU was completely dead. Aesthetically the PSU is perfect!! Nothing blown, nothing cracked, and nothing corroded. I already tried to fix it with the help of a great guy on Reddit, but to no avail. So here it is my idea, could anyone in this wonderful community spare with me a Saturn PSU? A PAL 220v PSU hopefully? I have in my possesion three 220v OG Xbox PSU's and one 110V American OG Xbox PSU. I could give any of those PSU's in return for a PAL Sega Saturn PSU, my PSU's are perfect and all working great! My best regards to everyone! You have always been great to me. Hector Hidalgo.

Hi, my precious modded Xbox is a UK device and I have been working on the basis that the PSU is 220v only and will need to be replaced with a 110v supply. Can anyone confirm that this is the case - if it can handle multi voltage then that would be a great surprise. Obviously if I need to replace the PSU thats fine - would anyone have any tips / pitfalls I need to be aware of?? Cheers

Hi. I have one of the modded Xbox consoles that I bought from N64Freak last year. It's a v1.0 and the power supply has failed, I've tested the console with an old PC PSU just to verify that it's the PSU and it booted. Since the PC power supply has no chance of fitting into the console, and I can't find a power supply that isn't from the USA, I'm going to buy a broken console for spares and use the PSU from that. So here's my question then, I know that a V1.6 PSU likely won't work since it has 5V on in standby and POWOK has 3.3v in standby, while all the other models only have a 3.3V line active in standby. Will a PSU from a V1.1 up to a v1.5 work if I can source one? The v1.0 seems to have these cables running to the motherboard: 12v = 1 cable 5v = 3 cables 3.3v = 1 cable STDBY = 1 cable (3.3v) GND = 4 POWOK = 1 POWON = 1 The v1.1-v1.5 seems to have: 12v = 1 cable 5v = 4 cables 3.3v = 2 cables STDBY = 1 cable (3.3v) GND = 5 cables POWOK = 1 cable POWON = 1 cable Am I right in assuming I could just route the cables from a v1.1-v1.5 into the headers they belong in on the v1.0 motherboard, and just leave out the extra unneeded 5v, 3.3v, and GND cables? My main concern is whether the newer PSU will have enough wattage to power the console, since I was thinking that the v1.0 might have used more power.

My OG xbox wont turn on. Not a single bulging or leaky cap. I was going to replace all the caps but I noticed this and I dont know what it is, how to tell if its bad or how to order a new one. It looks kinda burned on the top but it just appears to be the rubber and not the part itself. is there a way to check it with a multi meter. The part I am asking about is the one in the first picture

Hello guys, I am talking to you from the end of the world, I live in the south of Chile, very near the antartic (yes it's cold). So... here is the thing, I recently got an original Xbox, controllers came dead, DVD drive didn't work, well nothing worked really hahahahha Nevermind, I fixed all of those issues, it didn't even came with screws! I bought new screws, a new IDE cable, I also fix the DVD. SO everything is working now! And I am waiting for my original Xbox controller on the mail. But there is one thing I cannot fix, the Power supply. In here we use 220v, but the Xbox I bought is an American Xbox 1.6 version (110v). I did not buy a PAL Xbox because we are NTSC 60hz! (ironic). Thing is, I search the entire Ebay, Amazon, everything, and I could NOT find anywhere to buy a European PSU for the Xbox. So... I come to you guys, you are my last hope in this world, if anyone has or knows someone who has a PAL PSU for the original XBOX, I would thank you forever. These are the models that exist for the 1.6 PAL XBOX: Delta DPSN-96DP-1 or Samsung (Tuscany) PSCD101301B Those are the only two models in existence, if someone could sell one to me, or even better, giveaway, I would be more than happy. No matter, please help me guys, I love this console so much, because I loved the 360 also. Waiting for any feedback, Hector Hidalgo aka Nacho el Kid. I am uploading a picture of one of the PSU's I am looking for (Samsung).

Hello guys, I am from south america, I live near the end of the world! And it is my first time with an XBOX (sounds a bit gay). Thing is, I am suffering with my new original Xbox. It came with two controllers, but, both are completely dead, I opened them, and they are unfixable. No screws on the console, I bought them all, hard drive was not working, I bought a new IDE cable, now is working. The DVD drive was not opening, I fixed it with a needle. AND the only problem I have left with no solution is the power supply, it is 110v, 1.6b, made in 2005. I need a 220v! It has been quite a headache, I got myself a power down convertor, it works, but it sounds like a nuclear plant! "Not good" (Trump voice) So dear guys if you have any deals, or any seller of 220v PSU for the Xbox, be sure to let me know! My most thankful cheers to you all! Cannot wait to play Halo 2 online using Xlink kai with all of you My Sony Wega is ready hehehhhe

Hey guys has anyone ever thought of making a new xbox psu like one that has more power and is about the same size but has a few extra molex connectors and such if not that would be a great project to see come out on the og xbox.

http://www.ombouwwereld.nl/microsoft-xbox-1-classic/xbox-1-classic-voeding.html

Hi all, My trusty old XBox has stopped powering up (no lights or drive activity, nothing). I have opened it up to check for leaking caps. It is a 1.0 or 1.1 version, so I checked the clock capacitor which had indeed leaked so I removed it and cleaned the pcb but still no joy. Then I started testing the FoxLink PSU. The socket soldering looks ok and I found that at least the 1st coil has tension, but when measuring the pins on the mobo connector there is nothing (I also measured the Power OK and Power ON pins). I can’t see any visual damage on the PSU. Can I conclude that this PSU is dead or is this normal?

Curious about this PSU. Obviously by samsung Looks like foxlink v1.2-1.5 but wire color is slightly different according to these pics My supply pin-out below: the white smear on the red wire second from top right column is a second white wire alongside the red leading into pin X@ on black beside purple is 2 blacks crimped in pin bottom right pin is brown on mine instead of gray.... looks like its a similar supply? anyone know about this?

Doesn't look too good. Thing was filled with dead crickets.

I've got a 1.6 with good traces that won't power on. If I hold the power button in I can hear the HDD spinning but nothing else happens, no video output, the led's don't light up, nothing.. Before I go about ordering the replacement transistor for the mb, I'd like to test the psu to make sure it's working, and I don't have any other 1.6's around to try it out in. I've been looking around online for 45 mins and can't find anything specific to testing the psu for correct voltage (it's a Delta if that matters, and everything looks flawless on it, no obvious problems.) If anyone can help me out with this, or has another idea of what may be the problem, I'd appreciate it immensely (and yes I have a multimeter handy :P) Cheers, Jim