Baggashite

I haven't had the time to get it finished yet as I'm in the process of moving house and everything I own is now in boxes.

Fusion 360 is my usual weapon of choice but I also use SketchUp. How clean is the scan?

I took measurements from the original and drew the faceplate from scratch. It isn't 100% right yet and I haven't had time to redraw it but I will release the .stl when I get round to finishing it.

What's the ultimate goal, if you don't mind me asking?

I don't even want t talk about it... but I will. I was running some temperature tests today on a new cooling fan/shroud setup on the slim box I'm building, and everything was fine, for about 20 mins, until the box rebooted and FRAG'd. I've no idea why, but it's looking like that MB is dead, so I've just taken a 1.6 board from a Crystal, and I'm fitting it now... But I still haven't hooked it up to the Pico PSU. That's 2x 1.6 boards that have died on me in as many weeks. I don't think leaving them stood is very good for them, as this one that committed Xsuicide had never been powered on until a few weeks ago, and I know (OK, I'm fairly certain) it's nothing I did wrong. I'm just about to transfer stuff to the new SSD (yeah, I know, pointless using an SSD but it was a spare one I had lying around). I'll get back to you when I blow this one up.

I'll be attempting to not blow up an xbox whilst doing exactly this in the coming days. If I blow it up I'll tell you what not to do.

I don't like that the Startech SATA-IDE adapter doesn't have a case, so I designed one for it, and thought I'd share it. It's printed in two halves and snaps together (if all goes well). sata-adapter-case.stl

Thanks for the help guys. SS_Dave and KaosEngineer....you're right about there being no 3.3V at the blue wire. I just tested the known-working PSU and it reads the same as the non-worker (0.1V). I'll see if I can find a PSU on EvilBay. Cheers

Is it possible to switch on a 1.6 PSU by shorting any of the wires? The box is going to eventually be running an Arduino from the Standby +5V rail, and I was planning on using a proximity sensor for switching it on, so if the PSU will turn on without going through the MCPX boot process, and the board will boot, I could work with that.

There's 5V on the orange (actually fluctuating between 4 and 5 when plugged in to the board, and a solid 5.5V when disconnected.) but nothing (well. 0.1V when disconnected from the board) on the blue.

It's definitely a 1.6 PSU. I have a few of all 3 types but no spare 1.6. I removed one from another box to make sure it wasn't the board, and it's definitely the PSU that's at fault. There's no voltage at all on the blue wire.

I just tried to power up a 1.6 crystal, and nada, so I checked the PSU, and there's nothing on the 3.3V standby. I CBA faultfinding, as the parts with shipping will likely cost as much as a PSU, so I need a PSU for a 1.6. .. does anybody have one? Cash (PayPal) or exchange for 1.0 - 1.1 PSU. Also need an OLED OpenXenium with daughterboard, if anyone has one. I'm in Ireland.

The only reason I'm doing it is to 3D print a mini enclosure, with a footprint that's not much bigger than the motherboard, so unless you plan on doing something similar (or a 'slim'), it really isn't worthwhile. The original cooling setup is more than adequate.

ShinGoutetsu sent me the files... much appreciated, and absolutely no disrespect to him hi, as he did mention that the mounting holes may not be perfect, but I've measured them and found they don't quite fit with my boards. This may be a difference between boards but I'll post my measurements back to ShinGoutetsu and see if he agrees.

I couldn't agree more, although I'd consider 2 thou quite a lot (engineering background), but I've been doing this stuff for close to 25 years, and the nonsense I see people spouting is cringeworthy. Yes, you might gain a 0.783 degree drop in temp, if you spend 4 hours lapping your sink on a piece of glass with rubbing compound... so what? Do you think your Xbox gives a shit that it's almost 1 degree cooler? Jeez... please make it stop. Like I said earlier, I can see why you might do it if you're chasing records. I did it myself for a while, but these things are mass produced, with tolerances that would scare most people if they looked into them, yet these boxes are still working 15+ years later. Stop worrying about cooling. My PC (the one I'm typing this on) is running a 3770K, which has been running at 4.7G for the almost 10 years, and never skipped a beat. (with no lapping or special paste) If it aint broke, don't try to fix it. Edit to add... I spent about 10 years designing heat exchangers and intercoolers, so I know a little bit about cooling. Edit to add #2: I'm not having a go at anybody here, just having a rant about the "You must change your thermal paste, and use the most expensive paste you can buy" nonsense.