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QuietProjects

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  1. That's probably correct. I just posted what I have installed on mine.
  2. Here is the schematic. The reason the I never updated the other post I because I wanted to get this done and decided to pull back on the scope of this. So figuring out a all in one power solution was just too much for me. Although I am pretty sure it could be done with something like an arduino and a softswitch. There is also the TI webench utility that will literally spit out a pre designed schematic with your power requirements using TI parts. I am pretty sure that is what ttsgeb used for his design. The STL isnt quite finished. I didn't show in the video about how I went about securing the power plug. The reason is because by the time I had got around to printing and finishing the thing, I hadn't considered that and just printed a bracket and glued it in place. This has the not so great side effect of locking the motherboard in place. I need to add some mounting holes for thermal inserts near the back. Thank you. Kind of, I have been in the scene since I was a teenager and just started laying down caps like everyone else does to their minis really without thinking about it. Really only one need to be laid down in order to make room for the controller ports
  3. Thank you. I mean you could but you would be waiting even longer heh.
  4. Hello everyone I wanted to show off my mini classic that I made. It is made from a 3d Printed case that I modeled. https://imgur.com/undefinedhttps://imgur.com/undefinedhttps://imgur.com/7GPs7sP I gave it some primer https://imgur.com/cTubiRv and some paint https://imgur.com/SDab5EQ https://imgur.com/Mek1KPw https://imgur.com/6kHrZN9 https://imgur.com/67ZuHwx Then I went the extra step and made a box for it and had it printed https://imgur.com/AK4X2Ro https://imgur.com/AURtsGc https://imgur.com/J3FOBmy Finally if you are interested, I made a video of me putting it together
  5. Okay sorry for the double post. I am realizing how silly that last question was. I guess the better question is, given the stated amperage's on the dev wiki, would a regular transistor be able to pass enough current for each of the voltages without blowing up or should I use a different component? I have another question. How would the switching even work exactly? Because the psu when switched on is always providing 5vdc and wouldn't that always turn on the transistor/mosfet? Or am I not correctly understanding how this all works?
  6. Okay. I think I need to find a suitable MOSFET. Im not sure though. I was doing some reading and it seems that BJTs only pass current while being controlled by current at the base? They dont seem suitable. And mosfets pass voltage and current while using voltage to trigger the pass through? Is this correct? I did do a redesign (before your post) with the back of the pcb being a power plane and it did work. But my 12v reg failed and dumped 5v and a lot of current where it wasn't supposed to go and now the board wont turn on. I do have another 1.6 around so I will get the xenium moved over.
  7. I tried my hand at designing a PCB, naturally it did not work heh. I think my traces are too small for the 5v to pass enough current. I found a soft switch to use for the 12v but I wont use it in the redesign. Any feedback is appreciated
  8. Alright, so in your opinion the booting looks normal and I'm just getting uppity with the power cycling? thanks for the tip on the ssd. I didn't even think to look for alternate sources to power it and the current connection is a bit fiddly and dumb. Okay I will try to get something slapped together in kicad
  9. Okay so what I am understanding from the advice you both are giving me is that I need to add an additional 3.3v source for the standby and an additional bit of circuitry to switch the 12v right? Also for more clarity here is a video of the booting behavior
  10. I did think about using a pico psu and even bought one and the stuff to do the conversion. I just seemed like there wasn't a ton of information about which caps to remove or how many.
  11. Oh that is way more simple thank you. And what about the PowOk and PowOn stuff. I read Kaos's post about it and didn't totally understand. I know that as I have been putting this together you only seem to need one signal PowOn I think and the console will still boot. Would providing constant 3.3vdc to both cause goofy boot behavior? Could you also use a similar circuit but on the PowOn and connected to PowOk?
  12. Okay. I went poking around and found this article on hackaday: https://hackaday.com/2019/06/24/ditch-the-switch-a-soft-latching-circuit-roundup/ I watched the video and the dude mentioned this ic in addition to the schematics:https://www.analog.com/media/en/technical-documentation/data-sheets/2954fb.pdf Would this work?
  13. Okay, now this is where my ignorance of electronics comes in, Is it enough to temporarily ground out the 12v? Like if i where to connect some kind of transistor or maybe a reversed diode with a higher rating than 12v maybe?
  14. Thank you for the reply Kaos, I appreciate your seemingly unending commitment to answering questions, here and on reddit. I was debating which place to put this question originally. Just so I understand, do you mean in addition to the one that I am using currently and that the output of which can't easily be switched? A similar question here. I have 5vdc coming from the psu itself. I should take pictures of the way it is installed on the underside as I only have one of the 5v pins connected as the rest seem to be internally connected on the motherboard itself. I should also mention that the little board I posted does work already. Everything boots fine, I just get some funny behavior once in a while like the console wont boot again after a soft shutdown unless the power is completely disconnected and reconnected. I assume this is mimicking the resetting behavior, I dunno I am probably wrong. This is installed on a 1.6. I did read your post about the way the xbox boots in the other thread on here and I am not sure I totally understand the exact sequence of events that the xbox goes through to boot
  15. Hello everyone I have been working on a slim xbox build and have it 95% working the way it should with some off the shelf parts that are not the pico psu. The only sticky issue that is pretty minor is the switched power requirements. I don't really understand electronics that well past what I call a "blackbox" understanding. You know, I understand that the boards I use say they will take a certain voltage in and output whatever but no knowledge to build a more complex circuit for switching the reset line for the smc. I am using a meanwell psu that is rated for 5v20A that you can find in a lot of places on the internet. Then I am using two boards from Pololu. One to step up the voltage to 12v:https://www.pololu.com/product/2568 and another to knock the 5v down to 3.3v https://www.pololu.com/product/4090 I was wondering if you all could help me with a schematic or some understanding of how to switch on and off the 3.3v signals to help reset the smc. I have some idea that you could use some transistors maybe to accomplish this but I am not super sure. The goal here would be to use the above boards in custom pcb for future slim xbox builds. Sorry if this isn't super clear Here is the picture of my install and somewhat self evident why it could be better looking

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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