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Due to threats of litigation and ongoing disputes over IP infringement claims, we have decided to attempt to stop all discussion of Xbox HDMI HARD mods on this site. We will not be discriminating based on brand. All discussion is hereby banned in an effort to not be sued. The HDMI mods are really for people trying to build the ultimate modded Xbox. The results yielded by the HDMI mods are very slightly sharper than the component to HDMI converters by reputable brands. They are almost indistinguishable and so are hard to justify for many due to their expense and installation difficulty. If the truth were really told, the installation difficulty is the main reason anyone has them... so they can show off their skills. The quality of the video output simply isn't that much better than component. (These comments are specific to the Original Xbox. Other consoles can actually have a dramatic improvement.) Component to HDMI adapter discussions are allowed. Hard modded adapters that intercept the raw video signals prior to the built-in video encoder discussions are disallowed. The threat of lawsuit against us is that we allegedly choose what can and cannot be published on our site. We are actually protected by law as media and exempt from most litigation due to our First Amendment rights to publish whatever we want as long as we are not directly providing something unlawful. We aren't, but this is also a public forum. We don't have the time to constantly monitor it nor are we attorneys. We don't intend for anything unlawful to be published on this site or to allow it to remain, but we simply can't catch everything and even if we could we do not know what is in compliance with the law and what isn't. Quite frankly, if you're not an attorney, neither do you. I'm referencing section 230 here. Section 230 protects this site from most things third parties (people posting to this board) could expose us to. One thing it doesn't protect us from, are claims of intellectual property theft. I have no idea who owns what intellectually property, who may or may not have used it unlawfully, etc. So, we've had to look at what to do about this. We can't continue in the current state because I cannot afford to be sued simply because I chose to create a site covering a topic I once loved when the main site had gone offline or was about to. So since we have no protection from this specific claim and since there is no clear indication of what is right and what is wrong I have only this one option to protect this site. The only reasonable thing for this site to do is attempt to stop all discussion regarding the HDMI mods creating all of the controversy, the company threatening litigation, the main person behind said company, any products they offer, AND any competitors to those products. I don't know what HDMI HARD mod is legal and what isn't, so the best way to protect this site is to block discussion of all of them. If you can sue us for (passively or unintentionally) allowing certain discussion, then we will attempt to comply and attempt to disallow all of it. There is absolutely no way for us to find every mention of every HDMI device that happened in the past. Please report those if you find them and if they are indeed HDMI HARD mods we will take them out of public view after we see the report. There is a lot of content on here and we can only do so much. -HARD mod means some part of the adapter installation requires the original hardware be modified in some way. HARDware was added to the circuit board somewhere OTHER than a port designed for devices to be plugged into it in order to modify the behavior of the device. Usually this means soldering was required, or traces on the circuit board were cut in order to intercept or redirect certain signals to make that modified behavior possible. -HARD mods vs SOFT mods. Hard mods mean hardware was added. Soft mods mean the mod was achieved via some form of software exploit. Soft mods aren't relevant here, but to understand the term HARD MOD it's important to understand the distinction. -
This is going to start out as just being copied directly over from my thread on BitBuilt about the project. https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/xboxpsu.3387/ The xbox has some mildly odd power requirements. It uses the same 20 pin Molex MiniFit Jr connector that an ATX PSU output, however the pinout is completely different. As it stands, the typical solution is to use a PicoPSU, a small ATX PSU, a modify it to work with the original xbox. PicoPSUs can be had for around $15, the power supplies for them can be had for around $10. It's a very inexpensive solution. Traditionally when this is done, the Power OK and Power On lines are ignored, the PSU is set to always on, and the wires are run all catywumpus to get to where they need to go. While this solution works, it's definitely a hack, and I believe we can do better. So what are the xbox's actual power requirements? While I haven't actually cut up a power supply and tried to get the xbox to full load while measuring the current draw, I have a V1.1 PSU here that handily has the power requirements right on the label. Max Output Power: 96W DC Output: +5V -- 13.2A +3.3V -- 4.8A +12V --1.2A +3VSB -- 0.045A I hope it's safe to assume that further revisions of the xbox had similar or lower power draw. Regardless, this seems like a good starting point. So, how do I plan to accomplish this? With 4x LM2678 Regulators from Texas Instruments. http://www.ti.com/product/LM2678 Why 4 regulators for 3 voltages? The LM2678 is a 5A regulator. I need 13.2A on the 5V line. Having looked at the specs for the PicoPSUs that seem to work just fine, they're rated for 8A on the 5V line. This leads me to believe that 10A should suffice, so I'll need two regulators for 5V. I'll also need a 12V regulator, as I plan to run this off of an easily obtainable laptop power supply rather than needing to source an 8A 12V supply. I will also be designing a smaller footprint alternative that runs off of 12v for when space is of the highest concern. I'll likely also break down the xbox's power requirements even further at some point to see if I can't design a PSU that allows for aggressive trimming, but that's much further down the road. -------------------------------------------- I've designed the first iteration of the 24v board, it's 60*32mm. Now that it's done, I don't like it for a variety of reasons. I'm going to try again, putting the low profile components on the backside of the board and the tall components on the topside of it. Maybe I'll be able to squish it down a bit more in the process. -------------------------------------------- There, that's a little better. 27.5*49.25 mm -------------------------------------------- Oh, hey, I worked on this a bit. I ditched the 12v regulator and changed it to 12v in. I also had to source different inductors, which are sadly larger, so the whole board got a couple of mm wider in the process. 26.5mm*57.2mm I think I'm gonna actually order this one, and see if it works. -------------------------------------------- I've since looked at the most recent revision and noticed a couple of flaws in it. I've repaired those flaws, and I'm gonna sleep on it again, look at it with fresh eyes tomorrow, and probably order it.
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i had been using the modified m8 evo(i think that's what it is called) bios because there is just something about seeing that stock boot image that i love. i don't know how to describe it but, it just does something to me. i recently started using cerbios because i wanted to take full advantage of my 3tb drive. so how can i make cerbios have the stock boot flubber and sound? -
This is a little project I worked on from October 2024 to January 2025 with help from Skye and HoneySoakedSegull. Original idea by Siktah (he had been nagging me about this for a year). Before anyone comments or asks, yes this just transfers the solder skill requirement from the repair person to the board assembler/merchant. This isn't something everyone needs, and I think it's rather pointless, as I just do my own trace repairs. That being said; not everyone has precision soldering equipment, not everyone has fantastic magnification to do their solder work, and not everyone has the effort for traditional front panel trace fixes. Without further ado I present Hugin and Munin trace fix cards and the D0-ET board. Siktah and I entered these as an exhibition entry into Xbox-Scene Modfest 2024: https://www.xbox-scene.info/articles/xbox-scene-modfest-2024-celebrating-homebrew-innovation-and-the-modding-scene-for-xbox-xbox-360-xbox-one-and-xbox-series-x-r54/ The boards are to be used in pairs, 1x Hugin (A) board and 1x Munin (B) board per repair. all 1.0 and 1.1 boards use one set of boards, all 1.2-1.6 boards use a different set. They require a 25cm ish 0.5mm pitch, 4-pin flex cable to jump between the two boards, and you only enable the trace repairs you require on the Munin (B) board. The flex connector must be folded 90 degrees one time to for the contacts to like up correctly. The red front panel LED is the least likely trace to fail, but it also doesn't have nearby "friendly" test points either. So a wire going from the RED pad on the B board to an alternate test point on the motherboard will be required. Unfortunately some boards don't have an easy to solder test point for the Red LED, so it may be easiest to solder right to the SMC. I am currently writing up install instructions and gathering fresh board images for every board rev. Here are some early "quick and dirty" images for 1.4 and 1.6: I made the FPC connectors quite large to support a huge variety of connectors, though I do include documentation on the bottom of each PCB for the needed resistors and a compatible FPC connector. You can also use top only, bottom only, or top+bottom FPC connectors as long as you use a "reverse direction" flex cable with one set of contacts on the top, and one set of contacts on the bottom if you use top or bottom only FPC connectors. As an added bonus, EqUiNoX repeatedly requested a simple, multifunction D0 board. So alongside Hugin and Munin I designed D0-ET as part of this set. Aside from protecting your D0 point from accidental damage from pulling on a wire the D0-ET (pronounced duet) has 3 possible functions: grounding out the D0 point directly giving a larger pad to solder to, to connect to a modchip with a simple D0 pad like an OpenXenium, ModXo boards, or an X2 / X3 wire harness giving a JST-SH 1.0mm 2-pin connector to connect directly to a modchip like Xenium Ice, Xenium Gold, or various ModXo boards An earlier (less well fitting) revision of this board can be seen installed on the 1.4 motherboard picture above. I am finally learning more about git and specifically github with the release of the Skeleton Key branded USB adapters (based of xbox7887's USB adapter, with support, permission and an overly permissive license). https://github.com/OGXHarcroft/Xbox-Skeleton-Key-USB-Adapter The gerbers for all 5 of these boards are already on the Xbox-Scene discord in the Modfest channel as of roughly 6 months ago and some sellers have already started selling them. Hugin and Munin FP Trace Fix boards are also coming soon to a github near you!
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I got recently an original black Xbox (the very classic so) but I would like to change the case for another one, like a reproduction of the Halo 2 Bell Ice Blue edition one. I know it would be not legit, but I just want to have one that look like this. It's just for fun and cosmetic for me. How to get one ? Should I try 3D Printing ? Or can I find some here or somewhere else ?
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I've written some firmware for the RP2040, thanks to a bunch of TinyUSB drivers created by Ryzee119 and the OpenStickCommunity, that supports pretty much anything the original OGX360 supports, apart from the 360 keyboard for Steel Battalion. On top of those I've added Sony Dualshock 4 and Dualsense support, and will be working on Switch Pro/Dualshock 3 once I get my hands on those. By default it's setup for the Adafruit Feather RP2040 USB Host board, but it can be compiled for the normal Pico as well, though that doesn't have a second USB port for your controller so you'll have to solder one to GPIO 0/1 (data +/-). The firmware can be compiled and used for - Original Xbox - Nintendo Switch - Xinput (not 360, due to the security chip) These are all the devices that are supported currently: - Original Xbox Duke and S controllers - Wired Xbox 360 controllers - Xbox 360 wireless PC adapter (clone and Microsoft, syncs 1 controller) - Xbox One/Series/Elite controllers - Dualshock 4 (PS4) - Dualsense (PS5) - 8bitdo v1 and v2 wireless adapters I've posted source code and compiled .uf2 files on Github: https://github.com/wiredopposite/OGX-Mini I'd also add that Playstation controllers are recognized by USB vendor and device ID, I'm not positive if there's a better way to do that, but those need to be manually added to the program to work. I need more of these IDs so if you're aware of some list somewhere, or your aftermarket Playstation 4/5 controller isn't working, just give me the VID/PID and I'll add them. I also need these for Playstation 3 controllers once I get around to adding support for those. This is the Adafruit board, no soldering is required for this, you just need a way to connect USB-C to your Xbox's controller port:- 77 replies
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Hi there everyone so anyways I’m just wondering, is there a recommended way of programming on the Xbox in 2025? I know a little bit about c programming and sdl2 programming but for simple applications. So can anyone recommend some suggestions of programming for the Xbox? -
i got one of those xedusa hdmi adapters for my xboxs today. the picture is the best i have ever seen on my 1.6 but, the wavy lines are horrible on my 1.4. i'm strongly considering removing the hard mod and hdd from my 1.4 and modding another xbox. the 1.6 has the issues with displaying some games in 480p and the 1.4 has the wavy line issue that no one seems to really be able to figure out and fix. so, between the 1.0-1.3, which is the best xbox to mod? i'm looking for the most relaible and the best video/audio quality.
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I finally got to dig out my old black case machine I have. I would like to play Forza Motorsport again, but might run is as media server also. I am aware that the capacitor may be leaky and dead. Assuming it is salvageable, I would like to connect it to my Nvidia display port monitor I have for pc, maybe also needs a KVM setup for other machines. Whats a nice quality connection, do I have to solder a 360 cable as I have seen others do? I can probably handle the through hole parts ok, but not processor sockets! Hard drive and bios flashing should be straightforward enough. Is there anyone in Great Britain who can perform CPU upgrades and so on?
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I need some help repairing my original Xbox. I got an error 07 and got a new hard drive as I found this mod chip attached and was following some guides. I burnt a disk with Hexen and tried to run it but I still get a 07. I'm unsure what this mod chip actually is and can't find a solution to get my Xbox fixed. Any help whatsoever would be appreciated.
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Has anyone seen a xenon mfg 2011. From what I read online it's very unlikely. But I have it. No hdmi 12v 16.5a Never opened and label reads 2011. I finally opened it up. 5 caps are blown so I will replace those . But is this unicorn worth anything?
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Hello everyone!, Blz? I'm doing a port of "The Orange Box" For OG Xbox using the official port of HALF-LIFE 2, The Project is already 90% finished and I'm in the last step which is REPACKAGE the files to .XZP (Only)....... In it will include; HALF-LIFE 2 (With some improvements), EPISODE ONE, EPISODE TWO AND PORTAL.... Does not contain TEAM FORTRESS 2 due to Xbox being too weak for it If someone help me create a repackager of .XZP files the game will be completed, anyone available?
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Hi everyone, this has me in a permanently befuddled state and I hope you mad scientists can help if I'm missing something obvious. I bought this Aladdin XT clone from eBay with two others. Those worked fine and they're long gone to good homes. This one however, has an odd problem. I've been able to get it to boot on several not-1.6 consoles, but I can't get it to boot on any 1.6. I've tested it with a 1.0, 1.4 and my own personal 1.1. It was loaded with EvoX and booted fine. So I put it in a 1.6 and it would FRAG. Wouldn't even boot my Hexen CD. I put it back in my 1.1 and flashed it with the 1.6 version of EvoX. Standard ecc 256k. It confirmed the flash was successful, so I tried putting it back in the 1.6 console. Still FRAGged. I figured my LPC rebuild wasn't solid. Rechecked the solder points and tried booting an OpenXenium chip...that booted just fine. Am I missing something? Thanks all!
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When using/playing the MS dashboard, Halo CE, or JSRF, there's intermittent signal loss, or at least the behaviour of the TV is if the signal is lost (warning pops up). The audio will continue to work though (if plugged in through the reciever). I've got a video of this happening: Youtube video of signal loss. Setups I've tried: Xbox -> Chimeric -> Reciever -> TV (issue happens) Xbox -> Cheap component cable + cheap ADC with HDMI output -> Reciever -> TV (issue happens) Xbox -> Chimeric -> directly to TV (issue happens) Xbox -> Cheap component cable + cheap ADC with HDMI output -> directly to TV (issue happens) Xbox -> Chimeric -> Capture card -> Laptop (no issue) Xbox -> Chimeric -> Cheap projector (no issue) Xbox -> Chimeric -> Capture card (Elgato HD60 S) -> Laptop (no issue) & passthrough to TV (issue happens) Xbox -> Chimeric -> Capture card (Elgato HD60 S) -> Laptop (no issue) & passthrough to reciever and then TV (issue happens) Xbox -> Composite -> Cheap projector (no issue) Xbox details: PAL (Au) Rev 1.0 Delta DPSN-96AP-1 Aladdin XT with IND Unleash X Fully recapped PSU (didn't fix the issue) Replaced the large motherboard capacitors and a couple of the small ones next to the video DAC (didn't fix the issue) Unused Thompson DVD drive (un/plugged doesn't matter) WD 1TB Blue connected through an IDE-SATA (ofc) and 80 wire IDE cable. Molex -> SATA power is on the SATA-IDE card. Still had the same issue with the original WD HDD EEPROM set to NTSC Video output with 480p, and 720p enabled (480i seems to be issue free when using the Chimeric adaptor) Audio output with surround, DD, and DTS enabled No visible signs of trace rot, no signs of capcitors leaking, all removed capacitors looked to be in good condition and tested well. TV is a Sony KD-65X9000F (Au version of X90F) TV settings I've tried (in case auto detection is freaking out or something): Picture mode - Game Auto picture mode - Off Black adjust - Off Advanced contrast enhancer - Off Auto widescreen - Off Auto over/underscan - Off HDR - Off HDMI video range - Tried limited and full Colour space - Tried auto and sRGB "Motionflow" (not exactly, but effectively motion interpolation) - Off "Reality creation" (upscaling) - Off Smooth gradation - Off "Live colour" (Colour processing incl. fake HDR) - Off I've heard Deep Colour (introduced in HDMI 1.3) has caused issues in the past, but I can't find an option to turn it off anywhere, not even in the developer options. Reciever is Onkyo TX-SR494. Have tried multiple known good HDMI cables that can definitely carry 2.0 bandwidth. The Component -> HDMI DAC has an external power supply. This is it: https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B07JYHQRDJ I'm somewhat convinced that either the signal from the Xbox is borked, don't know if it's the PSU drooping, there's electrical noise, some thermal protection very briefly kicks in, or the motherboard capacitors I haven't replaced yet. I don't have an oscilloscope nor a way to monitor the HDMI signal to be able to further troubleshoot what exactly is going wrong. I'm after any more potential troubleshooting ideas, or knowledge. -
You want custom power on/off/eject sounds on your Xbox Og Console? Credit goes out to Element18592 for the Sonus Clone: https://github.com/Element18592/360-Sonus-Clone Credit to me for finding the install points on the Xbox Og Credit and Huge thanks to the homie Fuel who made most of these sounds - I made quite a few myself = More packs coming soon Sonus Pack 1: https://www.mediafire.com/file/9ealfxr2x0m6cn8/Sonus1.rar/file I recommend a JR Programmer to flash the sounds to the Phat Sonus Clone (Pico flasher is very un-stable) The Xonus requires 4 wires to be soldered in: 3v3 and Ground: These can be pulled from anywhere on mobo or psu Power and Eject: You can tap in directly to behind the power eject pcb or on motherboard Here are the points behind the power eject board: (Red is Power, White is Eject) Jrunner is used to program sounds, I use a JRprogrammer to flash sounds and a pico as well (Pico can be finicky yet if works its way faster) The Sonus Sound ic has very little memory so you are limited but you can squeeze in 3 sounds sometimes = Power on/Power Off/Eject whoa-thats-clean-Master-Chief.mp3 fuck-around-find-out-101soundboards.mp3
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Hey yall I have a hd44780 lcd And a arduino pro micro Wired to open xenium without spi2par board. It boots and lcd is on and the arduino is programmed. There is no characters and no control of backlight or contrast through any dash board. Has anyone installed lcd with pro micro and no spi2par board to open xenium? From what I understand on githubs ox lcd repository it can be done and I followed wiring instructions. Any help would be appreciated
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Call me old fashioned, but this is still a genuinely good setup to this day. Made a purpose built Xbox setup on my bedroom TV for watching movies in bed. I ripped a bunch of my DVD boxsets and movies 1:1 remux quality and copied them onto the HDD, it plays real nicely with the 128mb RAM. Takes quite a bit of setting up and fine tuning. Screws are still out because I intend on getting a bigger HDD, 500gb wasn't enough. I'll take this over a streaming service or a smart TV any day! 1.4 128mb RAM Cerbios Component cables Modified eeprom to do NTSC at 480p (was originally PAL) This all came about because I did a 128mb mod out of boredom and didn't know what to do with it after the fact lol. In the end it turned out to be a great idea
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Hello. In my setup I have daisy-chain setup with 480i-PVM and OSSC, and an all-SCART setup with SCART-switcher. No component. Xbox 1.2 and Contexant. Basically I'd like to use it like on PS2: there for 480p thru SCART it uses RGsB (Sync on Green) and I don't need to switch to component cables for it. I'm trying to figure out if Xbox can do the same. Info on this is too scattered: something about VGA, something about modding the board itself but links is dead already, something Xbox ONE (very wise naming). Can't make sense of it. For now I've wired typical RGB and mode 1+3 and in Cerbios.ini I've forced VGA. Got green light but PVM or OSSC don't pickup any signal. Btw if set to 1+2+3 RGB is working, cable is good. Maybe I need to use H-/V-syncs somehow? Wire them both to Sync in SCART?
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Hello together, I received a new xbox with following Problems. it automaticaly turns on when lt la plugged ln Error code 5 Sometimes there it does boot into the dashboard Xbox does have a modchip, but l can’t identify which one it is. How can I repair/fix this issue. Already saw one wire is broken, will try to fix it. -
FATXplorer is a great tool and I will eventually get a license, but I have no funds right now and am currently looking for a temporary free solution to browse through the files of an HDD. -
So as you may know i've already designed 2 different xbox mini cases and I'm also working on a full replacement case. This design sits in between these two, it loses the DVD rom and uses a 2.5" HDD/SSD instead of the full sized HDD. It also keeps the original PSU. The lid incorporates ducting to guide air over the heatsinks and also holds the HDD/SSD. Sttill a work in progress but heres a quick look so far:
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Hi all, I was given this power supply and I can´t find much information online about it. I need to know more before I connect it to the power outlet because i don´t want to break it! I did saw some topics and pictures on the forum from people in the UK who had the same "TUSCANY" Branded PSU. so if UK is 230v then i wanted to know if mine is also 230v I want to know the following: 1) is the TUSCANY POWER SUPPLY only found in Europe with 230volts or there is a TUSCANY version for USA 110v? 2) is the TUSCANY POWER SUPPLY dual voltage? 110v and 230v ? 2) my power supply (pictures below) ... I have no clue if it is 110v or 230v, does anyone know? 3) if my power supply is a UK power supply for 1.6 revision of OGXbox motherboard,can it work also on a USA 1.6 motherboard? 4) my power supply (pictures below) at first looked like untouched, but after looking at some pictures online I have he feeling that 3 capacitors were replaced. because from the pictures i saw, from factory, they place a red dot on top of the capacitor, but mine has no dots( I have marked the 3 caps in circles, i believe were replaced and provided what they used as replacement, does anyone know the UF and voltage of the original caps?)
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I hit the right thumbstick and it pulls up a menu that says "Exit game" but once you hit that option there's nothing to go directly back to Emustation; but only to restart the Xbox back to the dashboard. Am I missing something? -
I'd like to replace the logo that appears between the Xbox flubber animation upon startup and the loaded dashboard on a soft modded xbox using UnleashX. Right now its an X inside a cube with some matrix test in the background. Is that possible and how would I go about doing it? I am using the default skin and I don't see anything in the E:\UDATA\9e115330\0064122817A8\ directory labeled Skin. I do see a UX Splash but I changed that to no avail Ive tried googling around but I think im missing the right keywords so I wanted to create a thread if anyone knew how. -
I think its a good idea to have a thread with all of the 3d printable parts listed here so that others can find them easily. I'll start by adding my own creations, here is a replacement CPU/GPU bracket. Made in Fusion 360: Original Xbox CPU/GPU bracket by ShinGoutetsu | Download free STL model | Printables.com Feel free to add links to your own!
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48