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Is the extra unpopulated fan header on the motherboard (the spot where 1.0's plugged their GPU fan into) powered? I think those pads are missing on version 1.6, but I think Microsoft left them on the 1.2 to 1.4's.

Hey guys. It is 2023 and still running this wonderful box for my arcade cab. I recently figured that my idle CPU temperature is at about 59 C. I thought this maybe a bit high to have a long life. Maybe this type of processor can handle it but I would want to check for cooling possibilities. At first I've installed a 80mm Noctua. And it shows 59 C°. in the dash. GPU is about 10 C° lower. I wanted to override fan speed in the dash... but those settings don't effect the speed. At least I can't hear anything happening. Then I wanted to check for the ind-bios.cfg to raise the idle speed. And here comes the next thing... I don't have it? I couldn't find it. I am running a 1512 mhz mod with basic xmbc dash/ ind.bios pre setup by N64 Freak. Is the *.cfg file hidden somewhere or injected somehow? Can I just copy one to C:\? Any chance for me to raise fan speed permanently? Or is it fixed due to power supply and always runs at max? How you guys handle temperature on those mods? And why there is no effect when using the override option in the dash an pumping from 10% to 100%? Happy to hear your voices and hints to keep this baby alive for years to come. All best, Dan

Recently discovered that it is possible to fully disassemble GPU fan and service it properly. Fan is not using ball bearings, it simply pops off if you force it gently with both fingers equal amount of pressure on fan blades as close to the base of assembly. Loud fan is quite again.

When I was looking for a extra gamepad, I came across a "duke" gamepad including a whole Xbox for 10 bucks, I couldn't resist not taking it Everything works, but inside the Xbox it looks like it has a 1.0 board. I've read things about the Foxlink PSU in 1.0 units... and this one has the Foxlink The pins on the AC connector are slightly movable and the solder is cracked, but working. After taking the picture I resoldered it. Is resoldering the only fix for it to prevent melting away some day? Second thing is the fan on the GPU heatsink which makes noise the first minute it's tuned on. The same noise PC fans make when they are worn. But with a PC fan I can remove the label to reveal the bearing and put a drop of oil in it, letting it run quietly again for a couple more years. But removing the label on this GPU fan doesn't reveal the bearing. Is this fan repairable in a different way?

Hi, I recently updated my Xbox with the Noctua NF-A6X25 FLX fan. The fan works fine, I set it to automatic on XBMC4Gamers settings. But as soon as I start a game from the HDD, I feel the rotation speed drop and it never increases during the game session. Only when I get back from the dash does it start to increase the revs until it reaches the desired temperature. What can I do? I don't think it's normal.

What's the most efficient cooling fan that does a bloody good job for the OGXbox, I'm running the stock fan and it's not the noise that bothers me but is there something more efficient that could keep everything cooler? Usually my temps are around 40-50c with the stock fan at 100%

Hello Guys. I need some advice. I have a Xbox 1.4 with a windbond chip that I TSOPed a few years ago using a Hexen disk, I don't remember exactly the bios that was flashed, but when I turn on the xbox the evoX logo comes up, so I'm gonna guess my xbox has a m8 plus. The console works fine, but the fan is very noisy (it's a Sunon), so today I disassembled the xbox, replaced the thermal paste in both gpu and cpu (i've gained like 5 degrees), cleaned and oiled the fan and...it's still very very noisy and loud. So, I've been looking for a replacement fan, and found that people recommend the "Nexus 70mm Real Silent Case Fan". But, they also recommend to up the fan speed (to 40% I think) because by default, it won't cool the console as the stock fan does. To do that, ¿I should flash a new Bios right? the m8 plus using EVtools and selecting 40% fan speed? something like this: My DVD drive is dead, so I can't use Hexen, or the OGXBOX Installer, but I can FTP to the console. Any advice on flashing a windbond chip? Thank you so much for your time.

Dear All, As you know, the stock fan of original Xbox is quite loud, and given the age about 15 to 16 years I decided to upgrade/replace the fan, read some forums and some suggest the Nexus 70mm Real Silence fan, which has an airflow of 21.1 CFM, but since I'm from Europe this fan is not available almost in no place, owing probably to being an older fan design, looked for alternatives, and some suggested a Noctua 80mm which we need to butch the HDD plastic bay to fit on the box, but there's also a 60mm model, which fits excellently which is NF-A6x25 FLX. that address an airflow of 29,2 CFM which is better than the first solution Nexus 70 mm. Alright connected the fan with the 4 anti vibration rubbers and this is the final result. Still haven't replace the thermal paste, that's going to be my next project, really now I have a quiet XBOX on my hands

Wanted to give a little walk through on my 20$ Fan upgrade. Watching the videos Everyone shows removing the motherboard, but this is unnecessary. 1. Remove case shell, DVD Drive, and Hard Drive. (6 screws on the bottom of case), 2 on DVD holder, 1 on HD/DVD holder overlap, 1 on HD holder. 2. Unplug the fan from motherboard. 3. Use two small flathead screwdrivers on each side of the fan and pry clip gently away from the fan. 4. After you pull up a couple centimeters, pull away from the back of the case to get the fan to unlatch from the back of the case 5. Now you can completely pull up and pull the fan out. 6. Before putting the new fan in put two pieces of 3M double sided tape over those two clip holes on the bottom. Otherwise you will see those holes on the bottom of the xbox. 7. Zip tie the long cable that comes with the fan and use four screws to attach the adapter to the new fan. MAKE SURE THE BLADES FACE THE SAME DIRECTION AS OLD FAN. You want it to exhaust not intake! 8. Push the fan down and put the clips into the slots on the back of the case, then push and clip all the way down. 9. Reattach power wire and make sure the zip tied wire goes to the left of the DVD case holder. 10. Reassemble, test, then put the case back together. This fan moves a ton of air, is really quiet, and the bearings feel WAY better then my old fan. Overall, Ill give this mod a 3/10 on difficulty due to HD, and DVD removal. Nexus Fan: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003PNLRLU Nexus Fan Adapter: https://retrofrog.net/products/xbox-70mm-nexus-fan-adapter-and-mount

Hello guys, I just updated the fan of my Xbox and want to set now the default value of the fan to 100%. Unfortunately I don't have a Windows machine to edit the evox.m8plus.v16.fc.137.bin. If someone can tell me how to edit it on a Mac I'm also can also change it myself. Thanks for your help. Regards Nikolaj

I wanted to switch out the stock fan for a Noctua and still retain some of the OG look and feel, this is the result. Maybe it will be of use to someone else as well. The design is up on Thingiverse and PrusaPrinters, whichever you fancy. Print instructions are there as well. Enjoy. PS. I'm also working on a design that's more compact and easier to print (in two or three parts), I'll post it if I ever get around to completing it.

I am disappointed with the fan mods for the Original Xbox. I tried a 60mm Noctua Fan and then an 80MM Noctua, but no matter what i do. I cannot increase the speed of the fan. The fan just stays at the same speed settings even during gameplay. And was wondering if i can increase the speed of the Noctua since they are better,quieter fans capable of pushing out more air. I tried increasing the speed through the settings and through the config settings. But it still doesn’t make a difference. My Xbox has an Open Xenium modchip with Unleash X. Did i miss something? Do i need a special adapter?

What is the average temperature of a modded Xbox (at boot and after playing for 1 hour, just an example ) ? Does the temperature get higher if games are played from HD or discs ? What to do if it's too high / how to change the fan settings to reduce the temperature (in Slayers 1.7 or other dashboards like XMBC or Unleash, etc...) ? Is there any other setting to check in order to keep the temperature stable or lowest as possible?

Hello all. I recently installed one of those ‘quiet’ case fans (Nexus 70mm Real Silent case fan) with the expectation that I would get quiet performance with the same cooling. I was shocked that I had to drastically increase the fan speed to get the same cooling performance. So, now I want to rethink my choice and see if the somewhat noisy stock fan can be refurbished. Other then seeing advice to clean the blades, I don’t see any other suggestions. Before I tinker for myself, does anyone know if the stock fan can be disassembled, and lubricated with the hopes of getting the stock fan as quiet as it can be?

Hello, I bought an OG v1.1 recently and worked just fine, it came with an Aladdin (I don't know what model, but assume is an old one). The chip doesn't worked so I softmodded and left the chip in its place. After a few weeks playing the xbox simply shutdown in the middle of a Mario Party gameplay and when try to turn it on it tried to boot from the modchip (I think it activates holding the power button for a few seconds). I though it was the CPU overheating, so increase the fan potency (x3), replace the thermal paste and remove the clock capacitor finding little to no corrosion in the board but quite a few components rusted, which I cleaned. When I tried to play again it was even worse, it shutdown more often than before and when I turn it off the thing turn on again trying to boot from the modchip. Then I check for trace corrosion and there was nothing visible, but made the bypass for the 4 traces either, nothing new happened. Maybe the modchip was the problem, right? Well, no. After removing it, the only difference was that it booted normally. Then I remembered that the freaking fan was on x3, and put it back to x1, since then no more unexpected turn offs or ons, it works as good as before. I came here to ask the experts: this makes any sense at all?

Hello, I picked up a modded 1.0 Xbox and I find the amount of system noise to be more than I want to tolerate. One mod that I heard mentioned was that the gpu heat sink and fan can be replaced with a passive solution that uses a ‘IGP’ heatsink. I can’t find good details on this. Does the OGXbox community have experience with this that can be shared? If this is a viable solution, can someone point me to a tutorial or provide details?

Hey so I have a 1.0 and the main fan header isn't working. Can I just replace the mosfet or is there a greater issue?

So I was looking back at some of my modding info I have saved from the net over the years. With regards of cpu and gpu coolers, we have all put larger fans on the stock coolers and 80mm fan mods. when dealing with a slim mod the way to go used to be one of the slim cpu coolers and fans that were touted around for pentium 3 cpus. These are getting scarce and when you do see one they seem to be a pricey for my linking. Anyone have any combos from more modern stuff that works in a similar way. P4 reference fans look the right size but obviously the clamp situation would need to be looked at.

Hi! I just picked up a 1.0 that a guy was selling as not tested. It had never been opened and you could see the dust from the side of the case, so I decided to open it up to clean it and check the clock capacitor before actually testing it. The thing is, when I took out the fan the sticker on the bottom was this one in photo. And the tiny cpu cooler fan seems to be 12v too. I've ever heard that og fans were 6v, but as the fan I removed from this 1.0 was spinning like it was new, I tested it on my TSOP flashed 1.2 and it worked just like the previous one. So are the og fans actually 12v while the system gives 6v, or is the 1.0 being different? If it was so, a new 70mm 12v fan shouldn't need to be set to much more percentage than the original.

I picked up a dead xbox, $20, I want to see if it can be fixed. (I believe its 1.6 board, xcalibur chip and MFD 2005 ) Pressing the power button spins the rear fan but stops spinning when I stop pressing the button. No other signs of life. No signs of being opened before. The power board powers up my other good v1.6 xbox fine, so a bad power board can be ruled out. Plugging my other good power board into the dead xbox has the same fan spin only result. I transferred the DVD to my good xbox and that works ok. I notice 4 of 5 caps bellow the CPU are blown - I've got 5 new 3300uf 10v caps coming in the post to replace them ($6 ebay), I looked on Digikey but $24 just for postage The closest Jaycar stock is 4700uf 16v. I noticed the 1.0f 2.5v gold cap in there too, do the 1.6v suffer the same leaky problems as earlier xbox version timer caps? needs changing? I don't expect to diagnose anything further until the 5 3300uf caps are replaced, but wondering if in the mean time there is anything else to check? or perform after caps replaced.

Any suggestions for a Rev 1.0 replacement CPU fan or larger heat sink replacement?

I just read in Huang's "Hacking the Xbox" a warning that the fanless heatsinks are prone to overheating if operated without the disk drives installed over the motherboard. I was just about to replace my 1.0 GPU heatsink (with the fan) with the later, fanless, one with the idea that I'd reduce the noise. But now I'm having second thoughts, as I will not be replacing the disk drives over the motherboard. Can anyone offer me some sage advice on whether or not i should keep the 1.0 heatsink? I may end up shaving ~1" off the top for a slim build. Would this eliminate the potential risk of overheating?

Hey guys, I've got a 1.6 Xbox that only spins the fan when I hold the power button. As soon as let off the power button, the fan stops. There's no video, and the xbox's eject light does not light up at all. The xbox last worked a few days ago. I unplugged it and when I plugged it back in, the above started. I've checked the motherboard and the power supply and there are no obvious burn marks or blown capacitors. I also checked the transistor next to the clock capacitor and it showed 3.25V when the power supply is plugged in. My one area of concern are the five 3300 uF capacitors next to the power supply connection on the motherboard. The tops look a tiny bit bulged. See the attached pics. Any suggestions on further troubleshooting steps? Should the five caps be replaced? Thanks for your help.

Hello, I have an original Xbox v1.6 with a xenium modchip in it. It's been sitting for years and I finally got it kinda working. When I installed the modchip, I unplugged the fan from the motherboard and ran power wires from the molex connector to get some more power out of it. It works fine, just loud and pretty sure it's not needed. I took it off the molex setup and plugged it back into the stock location on the motherboard but the fan never spins. I also noticed in my xecutor dashboard, the temps never change. Any ideas what could be causing the issue? Thanks in advance!

i chipped my xbox but i really don't like having the fan set to a static setting. i want the system to be able to change the speed of the fan as the temps of the cpu/gpu change. how do i do this?