Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Lina_Inverse_ last won the day on October 11

Lina_Inverse_ had the most liked content!

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Lina_Inverse_'s Achievements


Explorer (4/14)

  • Conversation Starter Rare
  • Dedicated Rare
  • Reacting Well Rare
  • First Post Rare
  • Collaborator Rare

Recent Badges



  1. Could be something graphics related or the RAM, or some other issue. Good parts board if you have the tools or sell it as a parts board.
  2. Your best bet is to get another drive but I believe you can softmod without the disc drive. I haven't tried this method myself:
  3. Hi, I've finally got around to it. C6V1 and C6V2 are both 100 nanofarads. C6T6 measures 9987 picofarads so 10,000 pF would be the official specification.
  4. Try run the DVD drive open, it's fairly simple. Just 4 screws on the bottom, then the top should pry right off, at least with the bottom off as well. From there you might be able to see if the motor attempts to spin when you attempt to eject or if something is blocking the way. Last option is to softmod without a disc drive. From there you can upgrade your hard drive and then FTP games over that you can download. This video provides a good explanation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nbSb7BFRQNo I could also ship a modified LG GDR-8163B that works with the Xbox and an old 80 or 120GB hard drive.
  5. Personally I recommend getting something bigger than 120GB for a long term upgrade, at least 320GB, but it's up to you. I'm assuming the 120gb is IDE not SATA? SATA will require an 80 pin IDE cable and an adapter.
  6. The Nichicon HM series near the heatsink on some revisions (I believe only 1.4 but that's all I've seen) fail as they can bulge and lose capacitance without power applied. I've had two consoles bulge, when I put them away, the capacitors were fine. It's only because they're a bad batch. On an LCR meter I believe all 3300uF caps read around 10-20uF which is very bad but ESR was within normal range. It prevented powering of the consoles whereas both were working fine before. It could be the warm environment I stored them in? Aside from that, I don't think there's much of an issue. I've got electrolytics that are much older (1970s) in equipment such as my main amplifier still working well within spec, or close enough that it's not an issue.
  7. Have you tried Rocky5? https://github.com/chr0m/XBMC4Kids/tree/master/Mod Files/scripts/XBMC4Kids Extras/480p Game Loaders
  8. Update: I tried the comaconsole repair yet it still has the same issues, unless the BIOS chip is bad which it would need a modchip. I'll give that a go. If that does nothing, it may just be a board for parts. GPU/CPU get warm as they normally would.
  9. Have you removed the D0 grounding point under the motherboard? D0 grounded without a chip causes the system to FRAG. I'd assume the same if the LFRAME trace has been cut.
  10. It does have rust/patina all around the shield but nothing indicating any sort of spillage. It's a sticky substance only on the board. I'll give it a thorough clean and run the system again and report back. With the yellow box, it's a copper layer that darker spot.
  11. I get no video or sound with the ODD/HDD disconnected, also the same when they're connected. I've checked the rails just now Blue: 3.3V White: 3.27 Brown: 3.28 Orange: 3.3 Red: 5.0V Yellow: 11.63 Within the 10% range but the 12V rail is a little low. Here's the board also.
  12. I recently bought a few faulty Xboxes yesterday and I want to try sort out this 1.1 which FRAGs. When I press eject it will often not open the disc tray, sometimes it will open quarter or half way or not close when it does open. I've tried 3 disc drives and they all have the same issue indicating a motherboard or possibly daughterboard problem. I have removed the clock capacitor which was only starting to leak. I've cleaned up what little leakage there was. Any ideas?
  13. Definitely a bad batch. Those 3300uf are the Nichicon HM series which were used in many computers from around 2002-2006 I believe. They all go bad yet others stay fine. I think it's still going bad. I've seen a few which have visible rot yet displayed no symptoms (I still trace repair them!), and one with no visible rot yet still developed the symptoms. See this guide: https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/index.php?/topic/29-how-to-fix-trace-corrosion/
  14. The top left pin on this close up image has sunken in completely.
  15. I know this for a fact. I had one die on me recently https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqdMb6xT8cI Does it happen during a game? Maybe try unplug and put back the video connector as it may be slightly loose.

Board Life Status

Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.