Lina_Inverse_

That's it! I made the mistake of searching the numbers along with it. Thanks.

I have a 1.6 revision board which shut down in the middle of using it. I have tested the PSU which is working correctly (have tried in another system also). I have traced the problem to this MOSFET - Q2F1 not outputting 5V.Can anyone guide me on a replacement? The numbers on it don't give me a good guide on an equivalent/compatible one.

Hi, I have a 1.4 revision Xbox which is modchipped with a generic Aladdin XT Plus2, it was modified many years back and was working normally when put away, Now when I turn it on, I get 1 green flash followed by red flashing of the LED. It does not matter the modchip I use which are all Aladdins, and have been proven tested/working in other consoles. The power LED initially flashes green once and then red. No video/audio on TV. I should add, it is only the left half of the LED that is flashing. I suspected it was due to the trace rot repair, but reversing this did not help. It was working normally when put away. The console powers up without even the front panel buttons connected. No solder splashes that I can see. Attempting to reverse the mod entirely (removing D0 point grounding and chip) I get FRAG.

Unfortunately, that board is beyond economical repair. I mean, you could possibly keep going through testing individual components but, you'd be best to sell it as a parts board (there is demand) and get yourself another 1.6 board. If you're going with a 1.4 board, you'll need a 1.4 power supply as well as removing the metal tab for shield and a bit of plastic right by the screw hole near(ish) to the video port

Often it's this one particular transistor that fails on the 1.6. Follow this video to test and possibly swap.

Check the IDE cable is pluggeed in correctly as sweetdarkdestiny says. If it's still doing that, it's possibly the disc drive itself causing the errors for both. What model of disc drive is it? If Samsung, This issue is most often due to failure of the 33 ohm or 82 ohm resistor arrays (NR601-NR606) on the drive board. If these components fail, the drive may give the system error 12, or may allow the system to boot but always give a disc read error. If you're not willing to do this, You're probably best off to get a modchip and upgrade the HDD or FTP games to the console You'll need to disable disc drive check in the BIOS and bypass the disc drive altogether. you can get another disc drive that is compatible, You'll need a different IDE drive (anything will do) to read the burned disc of Hexen.

If you have any skill at soldering, I would give it a go, after all, compatible transistors are extremely cheap. The solder pads look small and daunting but it's not too bad, you just have to go slowly.

I've got a spare MCPX X3 right here which has been reballed. Could send to you if you have the tools and the skill.

First thing I would try is play a DVD if you have the DVD kit. Otherwise a CD and get back to us. Second would be to install a modchip. If games still don't work I would doubt any RAM testing tools like the one included in Xblast would be able to boot from DVD, perhaps still worth a try. In that case, your issue is quite likely to be there.

Perhaps the video encoder chip is faulty, ball joint on the graphics chip or otherwise faulty graphics chip. I've never seen capacitors cause video to fail in such a way myself but you never know. Probably wouldn't hurt to reflow but I have my doubts and would lean more towards a faulty chip where you'd need a reflow station to remove and change. Sell it as a parts board or whole parts console online if you're thinking of getting rid of it. Edit: Could also be a perfect contender for the XboxHD+ if it were to be encoder chip https://makemhz.com/products/xboxhd

Here's the transistor I changed. MMBT4403 Here i

I've never really had problems with the 1500uF capacitors, same has been for the smaller ones. It's always been the 3300uF which was a bad batch from Nichicon, not helped by being right next to the heatsink. The 1.0/1.1 which mostly had 1500s for the main motherboard caps, even near the heatsink never seem to fail either.

The 3.25 volts on the purple is normal standby voltage. Try check red and black in the bottom picture is not shorting.

I have put it back myself but I have found another thread where someone mentions the transistor blowout when putting 1.6 board in a 1.4 case https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/index.php?/topic/4030-motherboard-transplant/

I gave my friend a 1.4 crystal case I got in a bundle of Xboxes online, I forgot to tell him about needing to remove the metal shielding from a pin. Because of that, it would not boot or show any signs of power even when he put the board back in the old case. This case was completely empty so he did use the 1.6 power supply which is also important about not mixing them. There's this one particular transistor on the standby rail on the 1.6 motherboards that can fail. I have swapped this and it is working again