Search the Community

Bought a XBox with SmartXX v2 some days ago and it had a to me unknow rebuild soldered in : Pictures Anyone ( @KaosEngineer ) has any info on that board or can tell my it is so different?

I have like 6 1.6 boards that I was going through and was pre-emptively rebuilding for OpenXenium chips last year. Fast Froward to this year and OpenXenium doubled in price and are usually sold out anyway. Decided that I'll just grab some of those cheap Aladdin XT Plus2 knock offs from aliExpress and buy one of those re-programmers for the chip. I have only installed OpenXeniums so this is my first experience with these Aladdin Chips. Was looking this guide here on the forums and instead of wiring the D0 to a point on the pin header like with OpenXenium it says to ground it to something on the board while the comments say to ground it to the D0 point on the chip. Just wondering what would be the best practice for these chips. Also in the steps it does not mention cutting the trace on the L-Frame which I always heard was a must with these Aladdin chips.

Hi Everyone, I am new to the OGXBOX scene. I have a working TSOPed 1.1 unit with 128GB of RAM I bought on Ebay. I also have several 1.6 motherboards/shells and I am desperately trying to install an OpenXenium board on any of them. I believe I ruined two 1.6 motherboards already (maybe they are salvageable?). I just tried soldering on the LPC rebuild board and 7 row pin header on a known, working 1.6 board last night and I tried to be very meticulous and careful but the console is now FRAGing (3 start attempts followed by blinking red and green). The actual Openxenium has no leds lit when this happens. I have sucessfully soldered a few Playstation 1 modchips as well as a Sege Genesis MegaAmp in the past, but I am having such a hard time getting the LPC rebuild (wire based or QSB board based) and OpenXenium chip working. Any pointers? Will pictures help?

Hello all, unfortunately I damaged part of the mainboard next to the resistor R7T3 while rebuilding the LPC port on my Xbox 1.6(see picture attached). Anyone has a idea how to fix this? I tried already to solder a wire to connect the two broken wires. Unfortunately it’s too small for me to fix it. Thanks for your help.

Are there any tips or suggestions for me to consider before taking on this task? I want to put this aladdin chip in another 1.6 that i got on my craigslist runs the other day.

So i have a 1.6 or 1.6b xbox and i ordered a mod chip to try modding it. i see every time someone mods an xbox that have this board that they use with it. I don't have that board and want to ask if its possible to mod it without it.

Hello All I bought a faulty chipped 1.6 off of ebay. I removed the LPC rebuild board and I notice a pulled contact. I think I've managed to retrace it, I checked continuity and it was OK and it booted! See attached picture. I don't want to use the rebuild board but I am going to do a wire rebuild. There are lots of pcitures around with various wire rebuilds. Some use slightly different wiring and state a rebuild for Aladdin or Xenium. Are all rebuilds all the same for every modchip, so I can follow any of them? Also, I am quite nervous of trying this as it took a lot of patience to do the retrace. Should I use a glue gun or polyimide film tape to make sure the retrace doesn't come loose or am I tempting fate and should just leave it alone? Are there any points I could use instead? Thanks in advance AtariSoul

LPC diagnostics (v0.1) Tutorial written by : milingo Last edited: August 5, 2004 Note: Tutorial is for Xbox v1.0 to v1.5. LPC has most points unlinked on Xbox v1.6+ LPC diagnostics, i.e. how to use a multimeter to check a funky LPC or broken traces without losing your faith. My dear (de)solderers, in my search for mod-knowledge (and misadventures with FRAGging 'boxes) I found a lot of misinformation, or better partially incorrect infos, regarding the dreaded LPC. I started organizing these infos for myself but, as the whole scene is about sharing knowledge, I decided to trim the rough edges and write a document out of it. I found it necessary because well known forums disregard 3-letter word searches (like PIN and LPC) and when you're at your first attempt with soldering and end up for the 3rd time with a FRAGging 'box you tend to forget words like PINS, LCLK, LAD0,1,2,3 and LFRAME! My work is 90% forum reading and 30% trial and error, (yes i know it's 120%, but even in nice forums like the one we have, a good 20% of infos you find are bill$h*t). One more thing, you'll find stolen photos and diagrams in this doc. I tried to use watermarked ones so I hope it's clear it's not my work, anyway if anyone feels ripped offended or generally pissed off by it, well... write me and I'll redo the images from scrap. Just one more thing, as many of you have already understood, English is not my mother tongue, so before flaming me please try to understand the concepts underneath! (if you find a sentence particularly awful, write me and I'll try to rephrase it, but things are really quite simple.) How to use a multimeter for voltage and resistance (ohms) testing: A. Voltage testing (cheching cold joints...) 1 You need to select on the voltmeter (or multimeter) the V scale DC current, set it to 10/20 (not lower than 10!) cause maximum voltage to measure is 5,0 volts, and we don't want to fry it (modern voltmeters are protected but you'll never know what kind of grandpa's voltmeter someone can come out with...) 2 You need to switch the 'box ON, remember that you have to access the LPC on the mb so hd and dvd must be peeped out of the case or removed completely (but take note that it will FRAG anyhow if you don't keep the discs connected and powered). 3 Put one tip (black one usually) on a ground like the screw near the LPC (or pin 2 of the LPC, but it's easier a farther point). 4 Push firmly but softly and with a steady hand the red stick in the hole you want to test, or keep it pressed against the pin you want to check (just remember not to touch more than 1 pin at a time otherwise you'll never know which one are you reading... ) 5 Read on the voltmeter your current. This is my friend the LPC A good working LPC, and a nicely installed pin header, should roughly read, for me it's always a bit lower (as far s is 10% near the number it's ok): picture by ozxmods.com Pin Name Voltage 1 LCLK 0.2V * 2 GROUND 0.0V 3 LFRAME 3.3V ** 4 doesn't exist! 5 LRst 3.3V 6 VCC5 5.0V 7 Lad3 3.3V 8 Lad2 3.3V 9 VCC3 3.3V 10 Lad1 3.3V 11 Lad0 3.3V 12 GROUND 0.0V * not 3V, if you want a precise reading switch the scale to 1-2 V) ** on V 1.3+ 'boxes (0.0V it's disconnected) Common misinformation I found in the forums "...all pins should read 3.3V except pin 2 (0.0V) and pin 6 (5.0V)..." as you see pin 1 and pin 12 do not read 3.3V... B. Resistance testing (checking trace continuity...) 1 Select the ohm scale on your Multimeter (or Omega greek letter, the one like a reversed U, like the watch brand if it still exists) 2 Keep your 'box OFF, there's no need to risk to fry it... 3 Put one point (it's the same which one) in the pinhole and the other in a corresponding check point (see image white lpc point goes with grey eye-point, like the d0, on the mb) 4 In a circuit like this with little resistance, if trace is ok the ohm-meter should read nearly 0, if it's broken or messed up it shall read a high number say 1 This is a useful photo that pinpoints back of the mb with the lpc pins and corresponding check points. picture by baldbouncer.co.uk Somebody wrote in a forum this image has one grey check point wrong. Please help me find the culprit (if any)! Really this image has the points differently/oddly numbered but I'm too lazy to redo it right now so I enclose this translation table Rightfully numbered LPC pin Baldbouncer's Image numbering 1 1 2 11 3 2 5 3 6 10 7 4 8 9 9 5 10 8 11 6 12 7 Just be sure to double check before you start swearing!! Well that's it. My friend I hope it's been useful. Cheers! Your friend Milingo If you need to contact me try thru xbox-scene forum.... Version 0.1 (any corrections are welcome!) Tutorial written by : milingo

Attempting a OpenXenium 1.6 mod and there appears to be an issue with the LPC board. I had it all completed and OpenXenium screen came up but after about 1-2 minutes (sometimes less) the fan will speed up, orange light flashes and Xbox powers down which appears to be either a overheating issue or there maybe some solder splatter I cannot see. I'm more than likely going to remove the board and wire it instead, or at least this is what I would like to do. Is there a diagram out there that shows where the header pins should be wired? I have looked and have not seen anything. I do have another board but would rather wire it if this is possible. Thank you!

Hey guys! I made a video guide on how to install / setup the OpenXenium modchip on a 1.6 OG xbox including an LPC rebuild installation. These chips are not much more than the Alladins prebuilt and significantly cheaper if you want to build one yourself. They're way more feature rich as well and support multiple bios' + LCD support. I'd highly recommend these chips my dudes. Enjoy and let me know if you have any questions.

https://imgur.com/a/P7rnmgZ Hi everyone Yesterday I ran into an issue with my install - I have a 1.6 Xbox so I picked up an Aladdin XT and a rebuild board to make the job easier. Should be easy right? - apparently not as I stuffed it up. Basically I made the mistake of following a video where the rebuild board had a much larger space around the pins which allowed for quite a bit of solder to be flowed onto them - I followed those instructions and when I went to put my board on it didn't sit flush. So for whatever reason I decided to solder it in and see what happened. Naturally, it didn't work so I with armed with a lot of patience and a desoldering wick I managed to remove it without destroying any pads or traces - but I have another problem. I didn't remove the unnecessary pin headers for my 1.6 - will the chip still work? and do I need to solder all of the pins to the rebuild board (I'm confused about the plating corresponding to each of the pins) as I'm not sure if I can remove them as you can see from the image the solder has gone directly into the through hole and I don't have the means of removing it. Sorry if this is stupid but I barely managed to get the header off of the board (thankfully I ordered extras) I don't want to have to desolder another one of these. Thanks!

Hey guys, I was reading barnitos LPC diagnostic thread to fix my xbox (still working on it) and i noticed that the baldbouncer image's is incredibly difficult to read and see what pins he is pointing too. I decided to try and update it with a higher-res photo and color coordinate the pins the the corresponding contact hole but I need someone to double check (preferably someone who has done this before) to make sure I'm pointing to the right ones. Can anyone confirm that I've got the Pin #7 going to the right contact hole and that the contact hole for Pin #4 is the proper one? Thank you.

Ok I one of my xboxes just stopped working. I started desolder the pin header and my vellman vacuum pump ruined a few traces. So now I wonder where to solder the new wires. And should I cut the traces close to the solder points where it looks a little bit sketchy. I want to repair the visa for pin header and put some wires where it seems like I may have ruined the traces or what you call them. And also another question what is required for being able to download files in file section?

Just a quick question to throw out to the community. I just did my first 1.6 LPC rebuild using a rebuild PCB. I`ve done many LPC rebuilds the old school way, just running wires to the appropriate points, but I saw these boards, so I grabbed a few to try out. I have mixed feelings about them. Yes, it was as simple as soldering the connections on the board to the point right next to them, and yes, they do look more professional, but did they save me any time, not really. With all the fiddling around trying to make sure all the points were exactly where they needed to be before tacking them in was a pain, and took way longer than if I had just run wires to where they needed to go. What is everyone elses opinion and experiences with these LPC rebuild boards.

I got a used modded xbox today. As I am stupid, instead of reading much into it, I tried to update from Evox m7 to m8 plus. In the update zip I downloaded, there was not only the M8 bios, but also a file called flashbios_v303.bin. I thought that would be the right file to flash, so I did. It seems like the bios is not compatible with my mod chip. While I am able to boot and select a file to flash from the HDD (I tried to flash an old file), it just gives me the error "Unkown flash! Halting". Is there anyway to make flashbios write onto my modchip so I have a working bios again?

Hi I'm currently doing a lpc rebuild on a 1.6 og xbox and I've managed to lift the trace on the trace near R7P4 does anyone know if theres somewhere else on the board I can pick this up? Thanks in advance.

Jargon Buster TSOP - IS THE ONBOARD CHIP THAT BOOTS THE MS BIOS , YOU WILL WANT TO BOOT FROM THIS FOR XBOX LIVE. LPC - THE HOLES WHERE THE MODCHIP CONNECT TO THE MOBO USING WIRES OR PINHEADER OR QUICKSOLDER METHODS. FRAG - FLASHES RED AND GREEN. THE XBOX IS TELLING YOU SOMETHING IS WRONG AND IT CANNOT BOOT POSSIBLY DUE TO POOR SOLDERING. BOOT - WHEN THE XBOX LOADS A BIOS AND STARTS UP THIS PROCESS IS CALLED BOOTING. BIOS - THE PROGRAM THAT IS STORED ON THE MODCHIP OR TSOP. IT'S EITHER MS OR HACKED (EVOX OR X2). PIN HEADER - 2 ROWS OF PINS THAT YOU SOLDER INTO THE LPC HOLES AND THEN SIMPLY PLUG YOUR CHIP ONTO IT. MOBO - SIMPLY MEANS THE XBOX MOTHERBOARD. D0 - THIS IS A LITTLE VIA ON THE TOP OF THE MOBO OR A SMALL PAD ON THE BOTTOMSIDE OF THE MOBO THAT WHEN GROUNDED PREVENTS THE TSOP BOOTING. VIA - A VERY SMALL LITTLE CIRCLE. YOU WILL NEED PRACTICE BEFORE YOU CAN SOLDER TO THESE. YOU CAN AVOID THESE ON EARLIER MODELS BUT NOT ON A V1.6 EVOX DASHBOARD - AN ALTERNATE DASHBOARD FOR THE XBOX THAT HAS A MENU TO LOAD GAMES , FLASH YOUR BIOS ETC. NOT TO BE CONFUSED WITH EVOX BIOS WHICH IS DIFFERENT AGAIN. EVOX DASHBOARD IS MADE UP OF A NUMBER OF FILES THAT YOU TRANSFER ONTO YOUR HARD DRIVE OR A CDRW. THE LATEST VERSION IS 3935. EVOX BIOS - A HACKED BIOS FOR THE XBOX , IT ALLOWS YOU TO PLAY BACKUP GAMES AND RUN COOL APPS LIKE EVOX DASHBOARD. THE LASTEST BIOS IS M8 PLUS. X2 BIOS - A HACKED BIOS FOR THE XBOX , IT ALLOWS YOU TO PLAY BACKUP GAMES AND RUN COOL APPS LIKE EVOX DASHBOARD. THE LASTEST BIOS IS 4983. HOT SWAP - THE NAME GIVEN TO THE TECHNIQUE OF BOOTING THE XBOX WITH ONE MODCHIP (WITH THE LID OFF AND THE DVDROM TURNED AROUND THE WRONG WAY) AND THEN UNPLUGGING THE MODCHIP FROM THE HEADERPIN AND REPLACING IT WITH A BLANK ONE OR ONE THAT HAS HAD A BAD FLASH AND THEN FLASHING THIS CHIP. FLASHING - PROGRAMMING A BLANK CHIP OR REPROGRAMMING A CHIP WITH A BIOS FILE. SPIDERCHIP AND ALADDINS NEED A 256K BIOS. DUOX2 NEED A 512K BIOS. ALSO V1.6 XBOX'S REQUIRE THE EVOX M8 PLUS V1.6 BIOS. OTHER MODELS CAN USE THE X2 4981 OR X2 4983 BIOS. FLASHBIOS - A SPECIAL BIOS THAT ONLY LETS YOU DO A FEW FUNCTIONS. (WONT PLAY BACKUP GAMES). ITS MAIN PURPOSE IS TO FLASH YOUR MODCHIP WITH A HACKED BIOS. LOCK - LOCKS A HARD DRIVE SO THE MICROSOFT BIOS AND DASHBOARD WILL BOOT. THIS IS NEEDED FOR XBOX LIVE. UNLOCK - UNLOCKS A HARD DRIVE FOR USE IN A PC. YOU MUST UNLOCK A XBOX HARD DRIVE BEFORE IT CAN BE USED IN A COMPUTER.

Hi guys, I recently attempted an Aladdin XT plus modchip install on my xbox V1.0. Other then trying to suck out the solder from the LPC ports, the process was relatively smooth. When I first went to boot the box, the Aladdin instantly smoked hard so I it off. At the moment I'm trying to figure out whether it was my install error or a faulty chip. When I remove the chip and boot the xbox, it boots fine and normal. As soon as I add the chip back on, which doesn't smoke anymore, the xbox FRAGS. I tested the LPC pins and didnt get any continuity between ones I shouldnt have. I then tested to make sure the 5 and 3,3 voltages were still good and they were. I was gonna test each individual pin and see if maybe Im seeing 5V/3.3V where I shouldnt, but other then that I'm not sure if it was the install, but instead just a faulty chip. I bought it from Modchipcentral and I've gotten good stuff from them before. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks

So my friend and I are trying to replace the front panel LEDs with RGB LEDs using a separate microcontroller. We were able to read the status from the current front panel so we can react to error codes properly, so it isn't just a "dumb" LED replacement with an external controller. Our next goal was to send commands over the SMBus to the Arduino (Nano, ATmega328P) we use to control the RGB LEDs. I customized the XBMC code to send data to the new address I defined for the Arduino, in our case we used 0xE9. Since the Wire library of the Arduino already shifts the bits, we set the Arduino's address to 0xE9 too. The thing is, the Xbox sends the signal, but the Arduino isn't reacting to the given address. We already tried to analyze the signal and we can confirm that there is data being sent through the SMBus. OFC we wired up SDA and SCL correctly, we checked twice and since the logic analyzer is able to sniff data, it should be correct. Has anyone ever tried this yet? I've seen a couple of threads talking about controlling Ambilight over the SMBus but it seems like nobody has tried it yet. I guess we are doing something wrong, but we haven't yet figured out what it is that we are missing. Next thing would be buying a proper logic analyzer, but maybe somebody here has some experience and could lead us in the right direction before we spend the money. Is there any more documentation on the SMBus of the Xbox out there? I've just found the documented stuff on the xboxdevwiki. Thanks in advance!

hi i have been given a v1.0 and someone removed a chip refilled lpc and and all box does if frag is there any v1.0 lpc diagrams available thx in advance

I have a LPC Rebuild Board called the OXC LPCorrectr. I have included the files needed to have it made and it’s completely open sourced. .6 thick OXC_LPCorrector_v2.zip

As we know, v1.2-1.4 Xboxes don't have an easily-accessible LFRAME# signal, so modchips work on the assumption that the southbridge will never abort a cycle early by asserting LFRAME# and driving 0b1111 onto LAD[3:0]. That may be true for memory read cycles, but what about memory writes and I/O read/write cycles? Besides a timeout (which shouldn't happen anyway if long wait states are used), is there ever a case where the MCPX might abort an LPC cycle? EDIT: I may have posted this in the wrong section. I need this info for a hardware mod, but it might be better suited in the Modchip or General forum. Sorry about that.