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barnito

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barnito last won the day on March 13 2023

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  1. For those of you with the AR hardware or a modded Xbox controller plugged into your PC, I updated this with the latest Rocky5 and the 8 MB Version of the OGXBox XBlastOS MC TSOP Flasher v1.8.0 (26.09.2022), I just repacked the saves into AR format. Boot ISO (rufus, dvd-r, or vm) and drag and drop the saves the the MC.
  2. I made this ISO back in 2017. I recently updated it with CERBIOS 2.0.2 Retail, the latest OGXBOX TSOP Flasher, as well as the latest Rocky5. I also ripped everything not needed out of the iso and compressed the WIM to make it as small as possible (only 246 MB), and it works great in a VM!! I tested it in Virtualbox using an original Xbox Controller plugged into my PC.
  3. I have stock to make 10. I will do them this weekend and ask who wants them when done
  4. LPC diagnostics (v0.1) Tutorial written by : milingo Last edited: August 5, 2004 Note: Tutorial is for Xbox v1.0 to v1.5. LPC has most points unlinked on Xbox v1.6+ LPC diagnostics, i.e. how to use a multimeter to check a funky LPC or broken traces without losing your faith. My dear (de)solderers, in my search for mod-knowledge (and misadventures with FRAGging 'boxes) I found a lot of misinformation, or better partially incorrect infos, regarding the dreaded LPC. I started organizing these infos for myself but, as the whole scene is about sharing knowledge, I decided to trim the rough edges and write a document out of it. I found it necessary because well known forums disregard 3-letter word searches (like PIN and LPC) and when you're at your first attempt with soldering and end up for the 3rd time with a FRAGging 'box you tend to forget words like PINS, LCLK, LAD0,1,2,3 and LFRAME! My work is 90% forum reading and 30% trial and error, (yes i know it's 120%, but even in nice forums like the one we have, a good 20% of infos you find are bill$h*t). One more thing, you'll find stolen photos and diagrams in this doc. I tried to use watermarked ones so I hope it's clear it's not my work, anyway if anyone feels ripped offended or generally pissed off by it, well... write me and I'll redo the images from scrap. Just one more thing, as many of you have already understood, English is not my mother tongue, so before flaming me please try to understand the concepts underneath! (if you find a sentence particularly awful, write me and I'll try to rephrase it, but things are really quite simple.) How to use a multimeter for voltage and resistance (ohms) testing: A. Voltage testing (cheching cold joints...) 1 You need to select on the voltmeter (or multimeter) the V scale DC current, set it to 10/20 (not lower than 10!) cause maximum voltage to measure is 5,0 volts, and we don't want to fry it (modern voltmeters are protected but you'll never know what kind of grandpa's voltmeter someone can come out with...) 2 You need to switch the 'box ON, remember that you have to access the LPC on the mb so hd and dvd must be peeped out of the case or removed completely (but take note that it will FRAG anyhow if you don't keep the discs connected and powered). 3 Put one tip (black one usually) on a ground like the screw near the LPC (or pin 2 of the LPC, but it's easier a farther point). 4 Push firmly but softly and with a steady hand the red stick in the hole you want to test, or keep it pressed against the pin you want to check (just remember not to touch more than 1 pin at a time otherwise you'll never know which one are you reading... ) 5 Read on the voltmeter your current. This is my friend the LPC A good working LPC, and a nicely installed pin header, should roughly read, for me it's always a bit lower (as far s is 10% near the number it's ok): picture by ozxmods.com Pin Name Voltage 1 LCLK 0.2V * 2 GROUND 0.0V 3 LFRAME 3.3V ** 4 doesn't exist! 5 LRst 3.3V 6 VCC5 5.0V 7 Lad3 3.3V 8 Lad2 3.3V 9 VCC3 3.3V 10 Lad1 3.3V 11 Lad0 3.3V 12 GROUND 0.0V * not 3V, if you want a precise reading switch the scale to 1-2 V) ** on V 1.3+ 'boxes (0.0V it's disconnected) Common misinformation I found in the forums "...all pins should read 3.3V except pin 2 (0.0V) and pin 6 (5.0V)..." as you see pin 1 and pin 12 do not read 3.3V... B. Resistance testing (checking trace continuity...) 1 Select the ohm scale on your Multimeter (or Omega greek letter, the one like a reversed U, like the watch brand if it still exists) 2 Keep your 'box OFF, there's no need to risk to fry it... 3 Put one point (it's the same which one) in the pinhole and the other in a corresponding check point (see image white lpc point goes with grey eye-point, like the d0, on the mb) 4 In a circuit like this with little resistance, if trace is ok the ohm-meter should read nearly 0, if it's broken or messed up it shall read a high number say 1 This is a useful photo that pinpoints back of the mb with the lpc pins and corresponding check points. picture by baldbouncer.co.uk Somebody wrote in a forum this image has one grey check point wrong. Please help me find the culprit (if any)! Really this image has the points differently/oddly numbered but I'm too lazy to redo it right now so I enclose this translation table Rightfully numbered LPC pin Baldbouncer's Image numbering 1 1 2 11 3 2 5 3 6 10 7 4 8 9 9 5 10 8 11 6 12 7 Just be sure to double check before you start swearing!! Well that's it. My friend I hope it's been useful. Cheers! Your friend Milingo If you need to contact me try thru xbox-scene forum.... Version 0.1 (any corrections are welcome!) Tutorial written by : milingo
  5. use an eprom (27C2001/27C020 or bigger) or flashrom (29F020 or bigger) connect pins 22, 24 and 31 of the eprom to GND (pin 16 of the eprom). you might have to connect 31 to 5V (pin 32) if you are using a flashrom. Reset is A18 on this diagram. FOR XBOX v1.0/v1.1 The two unused points are only two additional Adress-Lines for the Chip (with which you can access everything beyong 256 kByte) ... so they are NOT needed. FOR XBOX v1.2/v1.3 (Thanks to D-BlooD who posted this diagram on forums.xbox-scene.com) FOR XBOX v1.4/v1.5 (Thanks to pcmerc who posted this diagram on forums.maxconsole.com) WE is the location you jump on the bottom of the board along with the other point on top that is standard on all motherboards. These are the write enable for reflashing the TSOP. Pad 33 is also known as link to 32 in previous pinouts.
  6. https://youtu.be/U9RTT-PHad8 Aladdin Xblast Modchips Domestic: $20 USD SHIPPED TO USA International: $20 USD SHIPPED TO MOST PLACES (minimum order, 4) **21 Available** more on the way Features: -1MB 49LF080A LPC Flash -Supports 1x 512KB Bank and 1x 256KB Bank, also lets you boot from onboard TSOP!! -Banks are software controlled from XblastOS embedded into Bank2, -NO SWITCHES! -D0 point for 1.0-1.4 Xboxes -Dedicated LFRAME point for 1.6 xboxes that releases after boot to avoid damage. -Pre programmed with the 1.6 versions of X2 5035 F and G and M8+. -Reflash banks easily direct from XblastOS. https://youtu.be/U9RTT-PHad8
  7. I sell them for 20 shipped in the USA, programmed and flashed with 1.6 M8+ and X2 5035
  8. no, you don't need to cut LFRAME if you have a mod chip that has a proper LFRAME point that releases ground after the Xbox boots. Usually labeled L1 or LF on the mod chip. On my xblast's you just tie the D0 point on the motherboard to the L1 point on the modchip. No cutting and no damage to the motherboard or components.
  9. Check this out... LPC Rebuild. Aladdin Multibank! I would NOT tie D0 to ground on a 1.6, get a mod chip that properly releases the D0 point from ground after boot to avoid damage, here I am using L1 on an Xblast chip. D0 is held to ground only until the bios is loaded to memory over LPC from the mod chip, then it is released. Not doing this can damage the MCPX over time due to high load on a data line not designed for the high current.
  10. My adventure using a USB to sata adapter to build and lock drives under win10!! I take no credit, I just stumbled on this last night! All under Windows 10 and a SATA drive plugged into an adapter. GET IT HERE: https://www.xbmc4xbox.org.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=4789
  11. I take a speaker wire, strip out one tiny strand of copper, tin it, and lay that across the write points and solder it down. Then I wiggle the excess till it breaks off. Never pulled a pad using this method and it takes much less time. I don't use alt points though
  12. Feel free to use my Live CD in any guides you write. Need feedback and suggestions!!!
  13. I made a Windows 7 live CD (works from USB using rufus) that boots with Action Replay working and drivers installed.

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