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About Me

Found 19 results

  1. I am not talking about the laser or motors going bad, I am talking about the board itself. Bad boards can cause a Xbox to frag. Sometimes a drive will cause the Xbox to no longer quickboot XBlast chip. Which components on the board can cause these issues? I know that a new and better method to fix Gamecube drives are to replace the capacitors over touching the pot. Is there anything that can be repaired on a bad board on one of the Xbox drives?
  2. Hey, I have installed the chip successfully and flashed the M8plus16 bios to the 256k slot but my DVD drive is toast and wont read my setup dvd (I tried tweaking the pot in stages all the way down to 500 ohms but nothing). I have installed and formatted a new harddrive within Xblast but is there a way to install a dashboard without a dvd drive? Is there a Bios with a built in FTP server for example? Thanks!
  3. For the second time in 18 months I've just lost use of another genuine MS Xbox Memory card. The memory card hadn't had anything written to it for months although many games access any attached memory devices so you can load a backup save from them. Then suddenly out of the blue this week it started displaying consistently as 0MB free space in the file manager, particularly after rebooting. It was quite full, only three blocks left so I tried deleting a couple of large saves when it, occasionally, started working again. That didn't help at all. I tried other controllers/slots/controller ports too - no joy in any case. The card is still recognised as being attached and when using the MS dash you can see the content although it takes a good minute to appear. What you can't do is write to it or delete anything. Very similar story for the first memory card too. Became unusable in the same way. Anyone else had an experience of MS Xbox 8MB memory cards going bad?
  4. So I had modded my v 1.4 Xbox with an Aladdin XT Plus and was working fine. Can't recall what I did but the Xbox started FRAGing with the D0 grounded and modchip installed. I also have a v 1.0 that I subsequently modded. I can't get either of them to work with the Aladdin. I even ordered another one (both are from Aliexpress) to see if it was an issue with the Aladdin chip. Both boot fine with D0 not grounded and both reboot 3 times and FRAG with D0 soldered to ground and the Aladdin installed. I have reflowed and checked my soldering. D0 has continuity to ground on both the front and back of the board. I have tried both Aladdins in both Xbox's with the same result. I did notice that the D0 pad on the Aladdin does seem to have continuity with ground when plugged in????? Same thing on both modchips. I also tried reflashing the SST chip manually with a XGPro flasher to see if it was the bios. No change. BT is soldered to ground on the Aladdins and has continuity to ground when plugged in. I have looked at a number of other threads where there was a similar issue/symptoms but didn't see any with a fix or resolution. I am at a loss here. Either I am just absolutely missing something here or the Aladdins no longer work with the Xbox. Although my 1.4 was working not sure what changed .. maybe there are bad components on the modchips? Thoughts would be appreciated.
  5. coppermine

    Bad EEPROM

    So I have this 1.1 that I replaced the EEPROM chip on at some point, years ago. I remember I did this because it was flashing red only. I don't know why I didn't try to just program the EEPROM, but I guess it doesn't matter, what's done is done. Anyways, years later I've dug it out and it still flashes red for bad EEPROM. I've built myself an EEPROM reader cable and tested it on some of my working units without issue. I can write and write the the EEPROM on this unit, and I've written a good EEPROM dump from another working 1.1 unit, but I still get the bad EEPROM flashing red led etc. Interestingly I can boot cromwell, but the video is all out of sync and it reports that the video mode is unknown. If I use xblast to reset system settings or manually change the video mode, none of it sticks after a reboot. I'm not really an expert at this sort of thing and I was hoping had maybe seen something similar.
  6. Hi, i'm new to the scene and got my first chipped box a few weeks ago. Because i'm interested in tinkering around it happend that my Flashchip somehow got corrupted in the process of trying out another BIOS ... i'm kinda stuck now and absolutely want to recover from this situation by myself, so there have a few ideas risen and i may ask more veteran people about them: Ideas: 1. Boot the XBox of a friend of mine, remove the Flash with power on and flash mine. Did this years ago regulary on PC Mainboards but also know that these devices aren't built for hotswapping them and so i'm a little bit afraid of killing the circuitry with voltage spikes. 2. Softmod the Box and Flash the Modchip then. Question 1: Possible in general? Question 2: Is it possible to Softmod "externally" on a PC. I have a eeprom backup of my box and the key isn't nulled. 3. Invest a few bucks and buy a USB Flasher which is compatible with PLCC32 chips - mine is a SST 49lf020a. Question: Can i use other Chips with similar specification too? I'm thinking of ordering a SST 39SF02070-4C-N which has very similar specifications compared to the original one, which is no longer produced or available. Just a sidenote: The Modchip i use is a Alladin XT Thanks, Egon
  7. Hello, I'm looking to Recover a bad Tsop Flash on a 1.4 board. I have an Aladdin XT on the way which will be my 3rd chip install. Been looking around and have a few questions. First, I understand being able to disconnect the D0 wire once booted with the chip would give me the option to tsop using Xblastos. My question comes from something else I'm looking into Eeprom recovery using a raspberry Pi, It accesses the I2C connection and pulls the Eeprom. Could I use the Pi and an LPC pinheader to reflash the original bios via tsop in a similar method?
  8. the 3 main caps behind the heatsinks, can they cause damage? i recently saw 3 of those caps have around 8,000uf(they're suppose to be 3300uf) and i'm wondering if that can damage a processor? it's making me wonder if i should recap some xbox's just to prevent damage.
  9. This is new to me - I had a Controller S go properly bad yesterday. It was one of those which had developed stick centering issues but I'd thought I'd fixed that using some plastic friendly lubrication. At the same time I also replaced the sticks as the thumb-pads were badly worn. The controller worked perfectly for six weeks after that but I had suspicion things were not quite right a few days ago when the Xbox booted and it would start scrolling through the main dash menu on its own again. Re-centering problems returning you'd think and that appeared to be the case because if I rolled the sticks 360 degrees a few times and then rebooted all started behaving normally again. But last night something else went wrong: the attached memory card was continuously being reported as corrupt (its not) and the main dash menus were not auto scrolling up or down as they had before, they were actually stuck. You could move the menu down using the d-pad but selecting a particular menu item was very difficult. It would shift up one and then just wouldn't launch. Removing the controller and rebooting appeared to fix the problem but shortly after I started a game I discovered the left trigger was not working and some other buttons too. Rebooted again, tried a different game - all good initially but the same faulty behaviour soon reappeared. Using another controller quickly confirmed this was a specific controller issue not a controller port or Xbox console one. Anyone else had a Controller S go bad like this?
  10. Ok, so by mistake I used a winbond flash method on a non winbond TSOP (ST), which resulted in the console freezing during the flash process and (ofc) followed by frag. Hopefuly i suceeded in installing an old alladdin modchip which i had lying around and the console works fine. So here' my question. Is it possible to re-flash the TSOP theoretically using the following method: Boot the console and then disable the chip without shutting down (e.g. desoldering the D0 point) and try to flash the TSOP correctly this time?
  11. Title says it all, I suck at soldering. the lead pulled off when i was putting on a wire. Am I pretty much SOL with this board? I have another but I'm rather discouraged from doing anything to it now.
  12. I dismantled and washed an xbox and cleaned the motherboard with alcohol tips - the problem is that the motherboard - controller ports - inner plastic parts of dvd drive and hard drive still stink - it’s like a stale cigarette smell any suggestions? Thanks
  13. Re-flashing bios on dead aladdin x2 Plus2. Im not sure what went wrong but i tried to update the aladdin x2 Plus2 to the ind 5003 via Xblast ( loaded oh hdd ) The flash appears to be successful but after a reboot i got the 3 boots and frag. Now it appears the chip is dead.? Thankfully i had another X2 Plus 2 and using that i can boot again I thought maybe i could hot-swap the chip and re-flash the bad one. However when i pull the chip the console appears to freeze and video goes to black. Im running off a Hexe 0.99b11-22 heimdalls xbox engineerind disc to try and re-flash 1.6 pal xbox Any ideas if this is possible?
  14. I've got a v1.1 that I TSOPed with an x2 5035 BIOS and I installed a 2TB sata HDD. I was messing with the x2config file (to remove the stupid "Xecutor Rox my box" thing) and like an idiot, I checked "Disable CD boot". For whatever reason something about the config file results in a frag and I can't get the xbox to boot the hexen disc. Any tips? Xbox boots fine using stock HDD.
  15. I'm attempting to help someone with their original Xbox that refuses to boot. His family pulled it from storage around Thanksgiving and it powered on but gave error message. Initially I recommend just finding another working unit but this one holds special sentimental value. Turns out belonged to his oldest son who passed away from a brain tumor at 14. Got this as a part of his Make a Wish gift at 12 and played it constantly. So I've done softmod on Xbox, Wiis, and PS3 but never tried a modchip but was thinking that it might be a way to get this thing back up and running. Can this be done or any other ideas? I tore the system down, pulled the leaky clock capacitor, cleaned the board, checked all connections and reassembled but no go. Could use any help with this. Thanks!
  16. I have a version 1.4 console with a modchip installed due to a bad TSOP flash. I cannot seem to find the location of the A15 point to attempt the repair process. Can anyone point me to an image? Thanks.
  17. I have an xchanger chip, I know that we are uploading the firmware over the network or from a cd / dvd disc. What should I do when I download the m7.bin file to the layout? There is a chance to resuscitate him. Because after playing the console does not start. I also tried to load from the evox autoinstaller, but the console is restarting. Do you have any ideas?
  18. Hi Everyone, I have a Winbond TSOP flashed 1.4 xbox, Using EvoX M8+ F and G bios. Used the Hexen 2018 disc. just upgraded to a WD 2TB HDD. After upgrading I got a black screen. I put everything back to normal (original HDD) and is working. The adapter I'm using: SATA Adapter Cable I'm using: 80 wire cable Video of xbox turning on: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTHcKnIUwF4 After looking at the SATA to IDE adapter, the capacitors looks bad. They have some white stuff. Could this be the adapter? the adapter is set to master Capacitors: https://image.ibb.co/bP0yd9/20180808_190838.jpgInsert other media https://image.ibb.co/mQ5mWU/20180808_190845.jpg https://image.ibb.co/cpgRWU/20180808_190852.jpg
  19. Hello, I've got an xbox to which I've performed the trace corrosion repair on the past, as the buttons did not shut down the console properly (it only turned on after i applied power to the unit). I've ran it just with the power button working, until now, when I decided to go ahead and try to fix both buttons. But now it went bad or something, because no matter how hard I jump wires to traces A, B and D (C is fine on my board, and I can't find E) as shown on this thread, the console simply refuses to turn on anymore.the wires are just fine and they give me continuity when soldered, but that's that. I know for sure that the power supply is perfectly fine (it never really failed). Even with only traces A and B soldered properly I can't get the console to boot anymore, and the right hand side of C7P8 has continunity to the solder pad in trace D (just saying because i'm not sure if this is how it should be, I hope nothing shorted ). Is there any other way to wire the power to the board so it'll work again? It would be really bad to have to throw it away over something like this.... I really hope someone can help me. Thanks in advance.

Board Life Status

Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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