coppermine
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I've been wondering lately about creating a small flex PCB interposer for 1.6 RAM upgrades. The QFP-100 pads are relatively long compared to the actual chip legs, it would be much easer to bend down a flex and solder it directly to the pads than it is to solder to the legs of the original chip (especially when using Hynix chips for the upgrade). I downloaded KiCad but I've never designed a PCB. I can't imagine it would be that difficult to create this flex PCB using an existing footprint placement with slightly extended pads. Has anyone else thought about this? Perhaps someone has already made something like this and I just don't know about it.
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Hey, I haven't done this on a 1.6, but the 1.0 box I've been using primarily hasn't had any lockups, shutdowns, etc. Everything is still working fine. Probably going to try it on a 1.1 as well, I assume the board layout is similar enough.
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Just wanted to update this and say I played all the way through Fable TLC without a single crash, freeze, etc. It's possible this mod doesn't work for every board but I've done it on a few now and they are all still working.
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I did this on a 1.0 tonight and played Halo 2 for a bit. I didn't notice any issues and XBMC4Gamers reported a temperature drop from 145f to 120f (both measured on reboot after playing for a bit). That's 63c down to 49c. I still want to play with it extensively to make sure it's actually stable, but if it's not, I can always put the resistor back.
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My order from JLCPCB came in. They look pretty good! Vanity PCB is a bit thick though, I think they were both 1.6mm? I attached them with some carefully place double sided tape. Since the minimum order quantity was five I've got four extras of each. Again I only ordered the spacer and vanity piece.
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Alright I ordered the spacer and mask PCBs from JLC. I think the rates were discounted for a new account and there was a coupon so it came out to under 20 bucks. When they arrive I'll take some pictures.
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I've also been looking at these and comparing prices from various PCB fabs. The most recognizable one, PCBway, was about $25 shipped for the minimum quantity (5), and this was just for one of the two top layers. Other fabs were as low as maybe 15 dollars? This website was helpful: https://pcbshopper.com/ I was hoping to get the decorative, top layer in matte black but for some reason this seems to more expensive and less available. Does anyone have experience with these PCB fabs? It would be nice to have an idea of who to go with before gambling ~$50.
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Did you ever find the cause of this? I have a box that only does this in Fable TLC, anywhere from 5-60 minutes. It plays other games all day without any issues.
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XCm Third Party Shells (XBox Custom Mods)
coppermine replied to N163LPH03N1X's topic in Rare and Uncommon Xbox Hardware
Man I kind of think that's amazing as-is. How did you get started dying these plastics? I would love to be able to do them myself. -
I'm looking for the vanity PCB/sticker piece for this X3 switch. It's mighty ugly without it.
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This is a great idea. Adjusting the mounting trays to account for 80mm fan support would be ideal. I love the look of the original case, so I think as close to that as possible would be good. Something like the development kit, where it looks like a regular console but thicker. This would give lots of room for round cables, ogx360, etc. You gotta keep the jewel.
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So I have this 1.1 that I replaced the EEPROM chip on at some point, years ago. I remember I did this because it was flashing red only. I don't know why I didn't try to just program the EEPROM, but I guess it doesn't matter, what's done is done. Anyways, years later I've dug it out and it still flashes red for bad EEPROM. I've built myself an EEPROM reader cable and tested it on some of my working units without issue. I can write and write the the EEPROM on this unit, and I've written a good EEPROM dump from another working 1.1 unit, but I still get the bad EEPROM flashing red led etc. Interestingly I can boot cromwell, but the video is all out of sync and it reports that the video mode is unknown. If I use xblast to reset system settings or manually change the video mode, none of it sticks after a reboot. I'm not really an expert at this sort of thing and I was hoping had maybe seen something similar.
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I have replaced the three cap configuration with the five cap configuration myself and it worked fine. Check out the bottom of this thread on Badcaps: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?s=645a4872dfb38b8d45dd5831a554953b&t=48951&page=10
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It might be a serial cable. I looked up some pinouts and did some continuity testing. I only get continuity on about half of the pins so I'm just going to go ahead and assume its wrong and get another one.
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coppermine changed their profile photo
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So I got an openxenium and hooked it up to the same box just to make sure my pin header and d0 work is good and it worked fine. I also checked the voltage on the 3.3 and 5 on the LPC since I wasn't sure what the xecuter might be using. Both are fine. I can't get the chip to talk to the software on the PC, I just get the no device found 0xFFFF (I've tried all bidirectional modes available in BIOS, and device manager reports the LPT working fine. I've also checked resources etc.). I'll find another parallel cable and get a second PC with LPT going just to rule that out, but I think the chip might be dead.
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48