Heatvent

It was loosely assembled because I wasn’t sure if I was done with the ribbon do that makes some sense.

Ok went back to the ribbon cable and resoldered each connection and that seemed to fix it. I had no sound but figured out the trace on pin 6 was damaged when the av port was removed so one more bodge.

I had maybe some progress? I soldered my bodge wires to the other side of the resistors and now, no orange flashing, only steady green. The HD+ Blue LED is now flashing on/off each second instead of slowly. Not sure what this means. I think there should also be a green LED.

OK, I had a lot of trouble getting the AV port out of my v1.6 XBox. The solder pump I was using removed the traces on the underside of the board. Traces on the top are fine so I am able to tap the SPDIF and 5V. However, on the bottom, I tried using bodge wires soldered directly to the resistors going to pins 11, 12 and 13. My work so far has unfortunately been messy at best and I am getting flashing orange when starting the XBox so I am pretty sure it is my bodge work that is the issue. Does anyone know if there is a better way to short pins 11/12 and 13/14 elsewhere if my AV port through holes are toast? Reference picture of pins below... http://i.imgur.com/pyjq4y6.jpg BTW, the specific behavior I am seeing is I get a green light on the Xbox initially. The HD+ blue light blinks slowly (about every 3 seconds on 3 seconds off). After 10 or so seconds the Xbox flashes orange and needs to be unplugged to turn off. I did check the ribbon cable installation a couple of times. I checked for bridged connections. I also checked that I got continuity all the way from the ribbon far edge to the opposite side of the resistor that the trace was soldered to. So I believe the cable is soldered correctly (I'm sure, however, I could be proven wrong). I also tried checking continuity from by bodges to the other side of each resistor and had mixed results. I checked my soldering and it appears to be good. Not sure if maybe I fried the resistors if that is possible. Maybe I need to jump across the resistor (not sure if they do anything when pins 11/12 and 13/14 are bridged).

Since I started using the official Xbox video cable the issue has gone away. So I think it was the HDMI adapter.

I guess I should say the v1.4 is working, I still need to disassemble the v1.0. So the 1.4 started acting flakey today. I tried turning on and was met with a blank screen. After fiddling a bit, it finally booted but then cutout during downloading artwork for XBMC and wouldn't boot back up. The DVD was making some noises so I swapped out the DVD from the v1.0 and it booted right up. However, it cut out again (crashed) when doing a download so not sure it's the DVD. Maybe its the HD or it's overheating or something. I did replace the thermal paste so I would think that is OK but back to troubleshooting. UPDATE: So after a number of tries it booted. Temps are fine under 60C. I was able to use it for a while with no issue. I tried download artwork and afer a minute or two the screen garbled and then went blank. The eject button is showing orange. UPDATE2: It booted up the first time after crashing. I installed config magic and wanted to make sure my HD was unlocked. It wasn't so I unlocked it and it about the time it took the screen started getting garbled and then went blank. Maybe this is an issue with the GPU. UPDATE3: OK I think I found the issue. I was using a HDMI adapter off of Amazon or Ebay or something and I think the adapter was flaking out and then the Xbox lost video and the ring turned orange. I have put in an original Xbox video cables and seems to be holding together for now.

I did try that first which is what was leading me to think it was a bad modchip or two.

I removed the pin header and installed a new pin header. Somewhere (you were correct) there must have been a bad connection / solder or some buried flux under the pin header causing problems or something like that because it is now working. Thanks for the help! Now I just need to polish my solder skills. Thanks!

So I had modded my v 1.4 Xbox with an Aladdin XT Plus and was working fine. Can't recall what I did but the Xbox started FRAGing with the D0 grounded and modchip installed. I also have a v 1.0 that I subsequently modded. I can't get either of them to work with the Aladdin. I even ordered another one (both are from Aliexpress) to see if it was an issue with the Aladdin chip. Both boot fine with D0 not grounded and both reboot 3 times and FRAG with D0 soldered to ground and the Aladdin installed. I have reflowed and checked my soldering. D0 has continuity to ground on both the front and back of the board. I have tried both Aladdins in both Xbox's with the same result. I did notice that the D0 pad on the Aladdin does seem to have continuity with ground when plugged in????? Same thing on both modchips. I also tried reflashing the SST chip manually with a XGPro flasher to see if it was the bios. No change. BT is soldered to ground on the Aladdins and has continuity to ground when plugged in. I have looked at a number of other threads where there was a similar issue/symptoms but didn't see any with a fix or resolution. I am at a loss here. Either I am just absolutely missing something here or the Aladdins no longer work with the Xbox. Although my 1.4 was working not sure what changed .. maybe there are bad components on the modchips? Thoughts would be appreciated.

Hi, wondering if anyone knows if the 256k X2 bios (either F or F and G) from Hexen 2018 have been patched with LBA48 v3? Reason I ask is when using either of these bios off of Hexen 2018, XBPartioner complains that LBA support is not enabled.