A while ago I removed the clock capacitor from an Xbox v.1.1.
Some days ago came the new capacitor I had ordered and I got to install it. Now, since I'm a complete amateur on the soldering thing, I may have damaged the capacitor or the mb, or the soldering job I did isn't good enough, BUT, how long is the date/time expected to last with a same rating capacitor? I never actually used a new Xbox and I don't know.
My first results show that I must have messed up the installation. As far as I can tell I put it in the same place where I removed the old one (there was a leftover capacitor leg in one of the holes) and I used the correct polarity (the negative of the capacitor to the white side of the board's schematic). The capacitor I used is the one in the picture below.
Thank you!
OSSC
Chimeric HDMI
Konig component RGB AV optical
Composite original
Pound (2020)
Mcable gaming
Mclassic
Monster component x400
Monster component x200
variety of wall chargers and HDMI cables
All the combinations and configurations were tested.
Tested on four TV and two Xbox : V 1.6 no modded, V1.0 XBMC ( no one did consequential differences )
Winner!
xbox+chimeric+Mclassic mode green (alimented wall) +Mcable gaming (alimented wall)+TV.
Explanation
At the begening, the monster component x400 seem perfect. https://postimg.cc/d7rGj7PT
It was better than konig component.
The konig get a good quantity of details but not like the monster x400 .
And his picture is faded. There is a significant loss of signal.
The monster x200 was like composite because the three plugs are video x1 and stereo x2. Not three RGB + optical audio like I had thinking.
Next, I tested all options of the OSSC expecting upgrade my video with a HDMI solution.
The picture was worst than the monster.
The OSSC loose always a part of the signal, event it was alimented, and it work not compatible for this console.
The pound (with power usb port) was very poor. Yes, it's very better than composite but: Green filter. Not very clear etc.
But it's wasn't a problem because I had bet all on the Chimeric.
Finaly, I recived the chimeric, and horror, the monster component smashes far more once again , with is colors very realistic and the picture very compatible with the signal source. I pluged the mcable and the mclassic, but this changed nothing. https://postimg.cc/VJKNfHvJ
I thinking pass all my life with monster x400.
After to have expected an issus of fabrication, I Shipped an message to Chimeric system. Before to receive a response, I had set up the stuff again, and this is it. It work fine. Mclassic was alimented by the pc port, but we need to put it in the wall. We need to find the perfect TV setting too, because the signal is different for PC, RGB etc. So the best mode need to be (neutral, desatured, wider spectrum, all spectrum of light and colors).
Now it is better than the monster component.
And better than the chimeric only. The stuff do all that it must to do.
But, after that, I upgraded the output video another time with an astuce.
I bought some different wall charger more powerful and the video become consequently much higher.
Now with the good wall charger,
It's a masterpiece.
How setting this Winning combination
Xbox dashboard- Audio : put dolby souround + DTS ( not Dolby digital)
Mclassic: Mode green( or off). Alimented by wall charger 5v- 1.8 A. Little bit hight or less.
Mcable Gaming: Wall charger 5v -2.4 A
Tv(Flat): Here my setting like exemple : Cinema , retro éclairage 100, contraste 100, brillance 63, couleur 50, nuance +10, netteté 100, image IA=EF, C.A.T.S=HF , reduc=HF, reduc MPEG=HF, niveau noir=clair.
In full screen, on tv 1080p or +, and with this stuff, If the picture is bigger than the window, to reduce It will do appear more elements in the window but not downgrade the details and the beauty. That will generate the details in less pixels, but in number sufficient.
Other point: More definition your monitor have, more sharp and natural are the edges of all things. ( Picture 1 to 3) https://postimg.cc/py77F2fG
But a cheap tv Ultra HD will make the edge wavy. ( Picture 3 and 4 are with the same poor ultra HD TV.)
Boost the signal with good wall charger upgrade the ambiance because the gamma have a better tonality. And do that upgrade really the textures too because halo 2 uses an optical illusion of 3d texture. So it's like if surfaces are more detailled. And it's like if previous non-existent textures appeared ( metalic, glass).
Materials description:
V1,6 Xbox: With hdmi solution, added vertical lines shadow (in the white sky) with halo 2 , but nothing else. It seem to have fast processing capacity. Fable is identical with the two consoles.
V1.0 Xbox (XBMC installed): Added horizontal artefacts with all the games and emulators. The picture was identical or less good. ( But no lines shadow with halo 2)
POUND ( Second place If with the same settings and stuff ). Don't have DTS option. Clarity of detail less good than component and chimeric. Green filter. https://postimg.cc/jWwJ303j
CHIMERIC: Apply red filter on the Panasonic TC-L32U3 but the color was perfect with the second Pansonic. I corrected it with the settings. Alone, there is no big video differences with the Pound (considering the red filter on the other TV) but give more potential with the extra stuff. Chimeric can do DTS audio option.
MONSTER COMPONENT x400 : Do the best picture and sound for easy and for the cost. https://postimg.cc/d7rGj7PT https://postimg.cc/McZcFHnk
KONIG: AV +optical + RGB + composite in one. RGB exemple : https://postimg.cc/FkFjfQY9 https://postimg.cc/xq7CN2Jt
V1.6 OSSC : With all the settings, x1 and x2 scanline too, and two TV, the signal loose a part of the intensity. The OSSC was alimented wall but only for the LCD screen I think, no to boost the signal. (Signal is affected in the normal processus of all adaptators). The picture was pale and bleach. Next, in X1, there was no difference compared good component except the precedent problem. Problem 3 : In x2, the game is pixelised like 2D 1987 games. Problem 4: About audio; There is not input hdmi, it need an adaptator for the two cables stereo before plug in, and there is no alimentation for boost the signal affected by this new stuff, and nothing for boost the signal if we connect the audio directly to the speaker ( using an adaptator too). And it's perhaps not 5.1 dolby sourround or DTS.
MCLASSIC : The leds set the format of the resolution, not the quantity of pixels. Mode blue it's for an old square tv and mode green for a larger format. The mode off is like the green. I did not see the visual difference, the pixels are exactly the same at the same place with the same flashing artefacts . But it's perhaps for another king of tv or another king of console. After that, it need a good wall charger. Yes, the pixel shapes are attenuated.
MCABLE GAMING. The not exspensive and not specialised cable '' Premium hight speed /HEC HDMI '' do the stone and building more realistic than the Mcable because it don't blur a part of the texture. At the same time, the Mcable gaming do the best shiny and polished textures, electric arc, water. It reduce the pixelisation of the game . But if we like the realistic stone and dislike to see psycadelic effects when some thin lines are near each others, it is an option. Finaly, the Mcable is better than all these kinds of cables because it have the capacity to involve the totality of the signal and upgrade all lights ambiance, textures, metalic or shiny effects. And is hight quality give the better definition. With a computer, the Mcable show more details than the HEC HDMI, but the xbox have not enough definition for did a difference at this point.
TV : The winner was : Panasonic TC-L32U3. Second place : Panasonic TC-L32X5. The very poor others are : LG 47LN5750, SAMSUNG UN50TU7000F.
Finaly, the https://makemhz.com/ is perhaps better than the chimeric so I will change the chimeric for it and keep all the settings and materials in this set up.
Got a 1.6 crystal in pretty great condition here with one serious problem - DVD drive (SDG-605) is dead, error 12.
Tried swapping a known working DVD drive in and using exactly the same power+IDE cable+HDD it successfully boots to dash so it's definitely the SDG-605 causing the error.
If anyone has any working DVD drives they are willing to part with, especially if they're in the UK, that would be great.
Otherwise, it's going to be the eBay lottery, and I'm not feeling lucky. 🦖
Recommended Posts
Similar Content
Some days ago came the new capacitor I had ordered and I got to install it. Now, since I'm a complete amateur on the soldering thing, I may have damaged the capacitor or the mb, or the soldering job I did isn't good enough, BUT, how long is the date/time expected to last with a same rating capacitor? I never actually used a new Xbox and I don't know.
My first results show that I must have messed up the installation. As far as I can tell I put it in the same place where I removed the old one (there was a leftover capacitor leg in one of the holes) and I used the correct polarity (the negative of the capacitor to the white side of the board's schematic). The capacitor I used is the one in the picture below.
Thank you!
OSSC Chimeric HDMI Konig component RGB AV optical Composite original Pound (2020) Mcable gaming Mclassic Monster component x400 Monster component x200 variety of wall chargers and HDMI cables
All the combinations and configurations were tested.
Tested on four TV and two Xbox : V 1.6 no modded, V1.0 XBMC ( no one did consequential differences )
Winner!
xbox+chimeric+Mclassic mode green (alimented wall) +Mcable gaming (alimented wall)+TV.
Explanation
At the begening, the monster component x400 seem perfect. https://postimg.cc/d7rGj7PT
It was better than konig component.
The konig get a good quantity of details but not like the monster x400 .
And his picture is faded. There is a significant loss of signal.
The monster x200 was like composite because the three plugs are video x1 and stereo x2. Not three RGB + optical audio like I had thinking.
Next, I tested all options of the OSSC expecting upgrade my video with a HDMI solution.
The picture was worst than the monster.
The OSSC loose always a part of the signal, event it was alimented, and it work not compatible for this console.
The pound (with power usb port) was very poor. Yes, it's very better than composite but: Green filter. Not very clear etc.
But it's wasn't a problem because I had bet all on the Chimeric.
Finaly, I recived the chimeric, and horror, the monster component smashes far more once again , with is colors very realistic and the picture very compatible with the signal source. I pluged the mcable and the mclassic, but this changed nothing. https://postimg.cc/VJKNfHvJ
I thinking pass all my life with monster x400.
After to have expected an issus of fabrication, I Shipped an message to Chimeric system. Before to receive a response, I had set up the stuff again, and this is it. It work fine. Mclassic was alimented by the pc port, but we need to put it in the wall. We need to find the perfect TV setting too, because the signal is different for PC, RGB etc. So the best mode need to be (neutral, desatured, wider spectrum, all spectrum of light and colors).
Now it is better than the monster component.
And better than the chimeric only. The stuff do all that it must to do.
But, after that, I upgraded the output video another time with an astuce.
I bought some different wall charger more powerful and the video become consequently much higher.
Now with the good wall charger,
It's a masterpiece.
How setting this Winning combination
Xbox dashboard- Audio : put dolby souround + DTS ( not Dolby digital)
Mclassic: Mode green( or off). Alimented by wall charger 5v- 1.8 A. Little bit hight or less.
Mcable Gaming: Wall charger 5v -2.4 A
Tv(Flat): Here my setting like exemple : Cinema , retro éclairage 100, contraste 100, brillance 63, couleur 50, nuance +10, netteté 100, image IA=EF, C.A.T.S=HF , reduc=HF, reduc MPEG=HF, niveau noir=clair.
In full screen, on tv 1080p or +, and with this stuff, If the picture is bigger than the window, to reduce It will do appear more elements in the window but not downgrade the details and the beauty. That will generate the details in less pixels, but in number sufficient.
Other point: More definition your monitor have, more sharp and natural are the edges of all things. ( Picture 1 to 3) https://postimg.cc/py77F2fG
But a cheap tv Ultra HD will make the edge wavy. ( Picture 3 and 4 are with the same poor ultra HD TV.)
Boost the signal with good wall charger upgrade the ambiance because the gamma have a better tonality. And do that upgrade really the textures too because halo 2 uses an optical illusion of 3d texture. So it's like if surfaces are more detailled. And it's like if previous non-existent textures appeared ( metalic, glass).
Materials description:
V1,6 Xbox: With hdmi solution, added vertical lines shadow (in the white sky) with halo 2 , but nothing else. It seem to have fast processing capacity. Fable is identical with the two consoles.
V1.0 Xbox (XBMC installed): Added horizontal artefacts with all the games and emulators. The picture was identical or less good. ( But no lines shadow with halo 2)
POUND ( Second place If with the same settings and stuff ). Don't have DTS option. Clarity of detail less good than component and chimeric. Green filter. https://postimg.cc/jWwJ303j
CHIMERIC: Apply red filter on the Panasonic TC-L32U3 but the color was perfect with the second Pansonic. I corrected it with the settings. Alone, there is no big video differences with the Pound (considering the red filter on the other TV) but give more potential with the extra stuff. Chimeric can do DTS audio option.
MONSTER COMPONENT x400 : Do the best picture and sound for easy and for the cost. https://postimg.cc/d7rGj7PT https://postimg.cc/McZcFHnk
KONIG: AV +optical + RGB + composite in one. RGB exemple : https://postimg.cc/FkFjfQY9 https://postimg.cc/xq7CN2Jt
V1.6 OSSC : With all the settings, x1 and x2 scanline too, and two TV, the signal loose a part of the intensity. The OSSC was alimented wall but only for the LCD screen I think, no to boost the signal. (Signal is affected in the normal processus of all adaptators). The picture was pale and bleach. Next, in X1, there was no difference compared good component except the precedent problem. Problem 3 : In x2, the game is pixelised like 2D 1987 games. Problem 4: About audio; There is not input hdmi, it need an adaptator for the two cables stereo before plug in, and there is no alimentation for boost the signal affected by this new stuff, and nothing for boost the signal if we connect the audio directly to the speaker ( using an adaptator too). And it's perhaps not 5.1 dolby sourround or DTS.
MCLASSIC : The leds set the format of the resolution, not the quantity of pixels. Mode blue it's for an old square tv and mode green for a larger format. The mode off is like the green. I did not see the visual difference, the pixels are exactly the same at the same place with the same flashing artefacts . But it's perhaps for another king of tv or another king of console. After that, it need a good wall charger. Yes, the pixel shapes are attenuated.
MCABLE GAMING. The not exspensive and not specialised cable '' Premium hight speed /HEC HDMI '' do the stone and building more realistic than the Mcable because it don't blur a part of the texture. At the same time, the Mcable gaming do the best shiny and polished textures, electric arc, water. It reduce the pixelisation of the game . But if we like the realistic stone and dislike to see psycadelic effects when some thin lines are near each others, it is an option. Finaly, the Mcable is better than all these kinds of cables because it have the capacity to involve the totality of the signal and upgrade all lights ambiance, textures, metalic or shiny effects. And is hight quality give the better definition. With a computer, the Mcable show more details than the HEC HDMI, but the xbox have not enough definition for did a difference at this point.
TV : The winner was : Panasonic TC-L32U3. Second place : Panasonic TC-L32X5. The very poor others are : LG 47LN5750, SAMSUNG UN50TU7000F.
Finaly, the https://makemhz.com/ is perhaps better than the chimeric so I will change the chimeric for it and keep all the settings and materials in this set up.
Tried swapping a known working DVD drive in and using exactly the same power+IDE cable+HDD it successfully boots to dash so it's definitely the SDG-605 causing the error.
If anyone has any working DVD drives they are willing to part with, especially if they're in the UK, that would be great.
Otherwise, it's going to be the eBay lottery, and I'm not feeling lucky. 🦖
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48