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Smeagolized

XBox Won't Power Up

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Recently purchased a Xbox pre modded. I thought it was soft modded but upon Futher reading it was hardmodded due to this appearing when booting the console.

 

I stupidly yesterday tried to FTP rocky5s softmod upgrade thinking my console was softmodded. I'm unsure if it's a TSOP flash or a mod chop waiting for screw drivers to arrive from eBay now.

 

If it was TSOP flashed is there anything I can do as after running the softmod upgrade from jrocky5 the console won't power on or make a sound to even power on. Nothing happens

 

I still have the original Xbox HDD the console came with. The guy I bought it off gave it to me.

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Edited by Smeagolized

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By trying to upgrade the hard drive would not cause it to not power on.

What version is it and have you had a look inside? and maybe some pick's of the boards.4

 

Cheers

SS Dave

Those that can Hard-Mod. Those that can't Soft-Mod.

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9 minutes ago, SS_Dave said:

By trying to upgrade the hard drive would not cause it to not power on.

What version is it and have you had a look inside? and maybe some pick's of the boards.4

 

Cheers

SS Dave

Those that can Hard-Mod. Those that can't Soft-Mod.

I didn't try upgrade the HDD I bought it pre upgraded with it already modded he did also give me the original HDD before he upgraded it. Yesterday I used Jrocky5s softmod upgrade tool 1.17v. Since powering off the console and having it unplugged overnight now the power button does not do anything nor the disc drive button.

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The light's round the eject button will still come on even with a blank,dead,or no hard drive so something else has failed you will have to wait for you Torx bit's to investigate some more

 

Cheers

SS Dave

Those that can Hard-Mod. Those that can't Soft-Mod.

.

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Had to link the photos due to file size on this website

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I have no idea wtf all that shit is on the powerboard, seems to be like a joint sealer or something it's kinda of over everything. Still have no idea what version Xbox I have.

 

Edit: I have a revision 1.1 

 

Edited by Smeagolized

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If it has a green clock cap its a 1.6, that's what I have. I don't know the other color but not green or removed is best on all except for the 1.6 green capacitor version.  forgot where to look to see in your photos I do not know how to tell the other versions but there is a way to. Some searching for it will be required . Wish I could help more I hope its just green then you'll know its a 1.6.

Then you'll be wondering if its a 1.6a or 1.6b though that doesn't really matter. Good luck Ryan

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19 minutes ago, ScorpionX said:

If it has a green clock cap its a 1.6, that's what I have. I don't know the other color but not green or removed is best on all except for the 1.6 green capacitor version.  forgot where to look to see in your photos I do not know how to tell the other versions but there is a way to. Some searching for it will be required . Wish I could help more I hope its just green then you'll know its a 1.6.

Then you'll be wondering if its a 1.6a or 1.6b though that doesn't really matter. Good luck Ryan

Had a look around and I have a 1.1 Xbox Revision from the No CPU Fan and a Conexant Video Chip.

 

Checked for my clock cap it was already removed by the previous owner 😁

Edited by Smeagolized

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Yes you have a version 1.1.

So the Xbox is dead no light or hard drive noise and the fan not working ?

From the picks I would say it was soft modded.

 

Cheers

SS Dave

 

Those that can Hard-Mod. Those that can't Soft-Mod.

 

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21 minutes ago, SS_Dave said:

Yes you have a version 1.1.

So the Xbox is dead no light or hard drive noise and the fan not working ?

From the picks I would say it was soft modded.

 

Cheers

SS Dave

 

Those that can Hard-Mod. Those that can't Soft-Mod.

 

Reassembling at the moment. Plugged in my power cord to psu detached from everything else and touched the opposite end of the board and gave myself a nice shock. Lol

 

Yes before dissembling no lights, no HDD spin up sound. I'll see what happens after reassembling.

 

My IDE cable seems slightly damaged.

 

All working fine until I turned it off after a softmod upgrade.

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Reassembled and plugged in the AC power coord there's no lights on or flashing, no HDD spin up sound. The motherboard looked pretty clean and don't see any evidence of trace corrosion so probably a fucked power supply?

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That IDE cable may be shorting out the power supply.  Hard to tell without further testing of the cable.

Since it boots an Evox BIOS, seems like and from the pics looks like it was TSOP modded.  However, the flash enable solder bridges were removed as most TSOP modding instructions advise to do. (But, not necessary as long as you know what you are doing and don't let a person go wild on your console that may reflash a bad BIOS making the console dysfunctional.)

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Look on the bottom side of the motherboard. There are 4 very thin traces that may be damaged that are preventing the power and eject buttons from reaching the System Management controller to power on/off or eject/load the DVD tray.  Many remove the clock cap and clean the top of the motherboard but don't remove it from the case and clean and repair traces as needed on the bottom side of the motherboard below the clock cap's location.  Some time later, a once operational console stops working.

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If you have a multimeter, best to start at the PSU I think.

With the power cord plugged into the wall socket, then plugging it into the back of the Xbox, you should be able to hear a low "thunk" sound (I think the transformer makes this this noise when it becomes energised). If it doesn't, try another power cord (fuse could be blown in the plug), then there is probably a fuse near the AC inlet on the PSU board, might look like a regular fuse, or like a small red cylinder.

Also, don't know your PSU type (have been looking at a Foxlink myself in recent days, and it doesn't look like that), but some types had issues with the solder in the power input pins.

If that all checks out, check for your standby voltage on the PSU<->Xbox connector. You should be seeing 3.3V on the brown wire.

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11 minutes ago, tmcwboards said:

Also, don't know your PSU type (have been looking at a Foxlink myself in recent days, and it doesn't look like that), but some types had issues with the solder in the power input pins.

His console is a 1.1 with a Delta Power Supply Unit (PSU). It doesn't have the cracked solder joint problems like the Foxlink PSU.  The AC power plug solder joints look good in the picture he posted.

There is a fuse on the PSU; however, it is hidden underneath the transformer mounted on top of other components including the AC power plug on this model's printed circuit board (PCB).

Xbox v1.0-1.1 Power Supply Connector Pinout

psu10-11.gif.4f20bac1225477c7611b4c2cc8041c2f.gif

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True. Depends what part he touched.  AC power was connected so there are a few hot parts before the fuse but most likely after it.  The heatsinks and other parts have live power present with AC power connected, not intended to be user serviced.  The open-frame design used inside a closed case  to protect them. No need for it to be enclosed in a protective casing inside the console.  Unlike a PC's power supply where the user can get in and out of the case somewhat regularly.

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All the information here suggests a power supply board failure which simply happened coincidentally after the 'softmod' update. Should be relatively easy to use a multi-meter on the power connector as per KaosEngineer's pinout diagram to test this.

These things happen - I have av1.6 chipped Xbox with no indications of a problem beforehand. Previous day working perfectly, unplugged from the mains after normal shutdown but next day dead as a Dodo. Replacement PSU board needed.  

Also agree with KaosEngineer: v1.1 (almost has to be with the single row power connector) and that it is/was a TSOP (Evox M8+ series) not a softmod.

Being a v1.1 the info is it is a 1MB TSOP but the pics supplied are not good enough to confirm anything else 100%: it looks like it is a ST Electronics TSOP and if you zoom in on the pic enough you can see the area around the R7D3 connection points just to the left (in the pic) of the R7D2 ones is definitely blackened.

Without turning the MB over you cannot see if the R7R4 points are or were connected. But if R7D3 was or is still bridged then, with the other evidence, you can be 99% sure it is a TSOP. 

 

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Top picture of clock capictor location Please login or register to see this link.

Underside clock capictor Please login or register to see this link.

TSOP ports Please login or register to see this link.

Powerboard underside Please login or register to see this link.

 

Where I shocked myself was touching the underside of the board opposite side to th AC power plug.

 

Where the TSOP location is seems to be some conductive paint or something that little black splotch.

 

Thought I'd get some clearer pics and more information for you guys. Thanks for all the help so far.

 

Waiting on a multimeter ATM to Futher inspect.

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Yes the power supplies can bite there is nearly 2 times the line voltage there ie 110 volt  around 200 volt dc and 220 volt ac around 300 volt dc.

The thing that I did see was the conductive paint and that means it was more than likely TSOP Flashed before.

I would clean the paint so that it is not over the other traces as it possibly could be shorting out several traces at once.

What happens if you try and boot the Xbox with the DVD drive and the Hard drive fully disconnected?

You are really going to need a multimeter for any further testing.

 

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It get's the job done but it's nothing like the real thing

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The conductive pain indeed looks really ugly and may be bridging several traces. The clock capacitor area looks very nasty too. Appears the cap was snipped or twisted off but it had leaked beforehand.

But neither explains why it was working before but not now. A power board failure still has to be the most likely culprit. Any of the caps could hold enough charge to give you a shock so that's no indication that the thing is working.

As KaosEngineer implied and both SS_Dave and myself said a multi-meter to test the output from the power board will confirm this very quickly one way or another.  

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