Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Took me 2 days to get all the wiring right. for the wii2hdmi for og xbox modd ... using a wii2hdmi device ordered off eBay you can also find an Alibaba and other places like this. Very inexpensive around 5 Canadian dollars. You're also going to need some sort of a donor Xbox RCA wires or component wires in order to pull this off. There is 11 connections total five of which are ground I do not suggest not adding all the ground cuz could cause interference. Had pretty good luck I made to both of them are crystal clear with no interference. I tested on version 1.0 as well as version 1.4 turned out very good. I tried to look up and down online for some sort of schematic nothing appeared. There was one picture that was in Spanish but it was misleading I tried to look into it to find out who the original inventor was found the person at XB Classics a Brazilian site. After conversating with him he told me that he had better pictures but he would not share. Then I noticed a site that they has linked where they were selling these to the equivalent of 40 US dollars a piece so that is the reason the images that they uploaded are just there to confuse people. So that they cannot make it. Does not include audio left or right. And apparently La stands for 5 V? Don't ask me but that's what the guy told me makes no sense at all. I spent two days getting the wiring correct. I documented everything and put it on a YouTube video (link2come) was trying to figure out the best way to make this readily available for everybody in the world any Xbox Enthusiast should have a low cost HDMI adapter solution available to them this is where these schematics come in. Again I didn't notice any interference at all. Just a little bit in the Bios when only running 480 but there's not much you can do unless you re Flash the BIOS to force. I've noticed people in the group posting pictures not even having soldering skills and getting very good results from this method. In theory you can use this exact same adapter in order to have an internal HDMI solution. These images are water marked because these are going to be the only good images that are online and I seen the way XB classic does their water mark and it really bugs me that they did that so I wanted to make sure that everyone knows where it came from. That being said I'm Mister James Reid really helped me out with this he volunteered his services in order to take my hard copy drawings that were on paper and make it look something presentable. Which he did and he did a great job thank you very much James I did in fact alter the images to have the watermark across them. Sorry about that but I figured since I put in the work I deserve to have my name on it. If you have any questions please do not hesitate I do not check this site every day but I do come in from time to time. Thanks again and I hope people online can use this receive money from the big corporations like pounds and hyperkin charging ridiculous amounts of money for something so cheap... I've also got a lot of questions recently about people asking if this is any better than component. It uses the component wires in order to transfer the signal into HDMI. I'm not too technical with that end but when looking up the chip number on the actual board for the Wii to HDMI adapter I did notice in there schematics and their breakdown for the actual board they did mention that the video board that does the decoding actually does video on hand splint what kind of video enhancement I have no idea. But it should be an enhancement over component if they are speaking the truth. Anyway gentleman without further delay here are the schematics. I hope this hope somebody somewhere. Thank you very much Frank

retroprofrank xbox2hdmi PAGE 1OF2.png

retroprofrank xbox2hdmi PAGE 20F2.jpg

20190415_215052.jpg

20190415_215100.jpg

20190419_130556.jpg

Screenshot_20190423-165928_Facebook.jpg

20190423_165953.jpg

  • Like 4
  • Thanks 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 115
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Took me 2 days to get all the wiring right. for the wii2hdmi for og xbox modd ... using a wii2hdmi device ordered off eBay you can also find an Alibaba and other places like this. Very inexpensive aro

Tried this mod today.  It's pretty good. It will need an end cap though.  Luckily some brilliant person made up this 3D printable one (attached).    xbox2hdmi 3D printer file.stl

I was actually looking this up. One of the chips on board is made for white and black balance. They showed some sort of comparison side by side picture. It makes the white colors whiter. Maybe this is

Posted Images

Yeah but not really. If you look at mine it's got a lot more grounding points. You might have came up with the idea and I give you credit for that good job I've only seen it done not only that but I've asked him to forms and I've asked in Facebook groups for help pretty much begging nobody came forward. By the way that's schematic by XP classics. Is wrong it's missing information. So don't go off that. it took me two days to figure out how to wire this from scratch as I had no help. Once I had great success James Reid offered to make a better diagram I had to hand draw everything and send it his way. Some of those images you posted are decent but there is one in particular XP classic that is misleading. That being said you should use the schematic I came up with yes sure it might use a few more grounding points. But that's just a guarantee you won't have any interference especially when it comes to 1.4. For example my build has five grounding points. In any event I did not see your post. And when I ask for help nobody helped me so this is my revision of this mod. If you got it to work some other way that's great but it doesn't really help nobody else out if there's no schematics to go off of and if the information is not shared I actually track this back to a member of XP classic who came up with this mod. And they're charging the equivalent of $40 us for one of these. I messaged the guy directly the first person who ever came up with this idea because I wanted to give him credit but his answer was disgusting. I showed him that XP classic image. He told me I have better images but I will not release them. That is terrible that does not help anyone in the community not only that but the same gentleman is charging $$$$ 4 links for coin-ops packs Etc. To his own people just because they do not know how to write and read in English. I will not credit that person. If you got this to work I'm very happy for you. But this does not help anybody at all without a proper schematic with the help of James Reid I was able to supply the community with it that's why I made this post I want to be able to have a good schematic available online for anyone who wants to do this mod. Anyway that being said thank you for your contributions. But if you don't have your own note still and you just have memorized keep a copy of this schematic it is Bulletproof. Thanks again Frank

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

Really nice and thanks! I also followed the other topic and I asked there why we shouldn't use the black one. They gave me the answer stick with the white one. I'm glad the black one is good to because I rather have a black case next to my xbox and apart from that I read that some of the white ones have some sort of  switch point in them where the black ones do it automatically and I think they also have a upscaler. I already have one lying here but I couldn't find any info on the upscaling part on the box. You know anything about it or is it just plain old Chinese bull-sh*t :P

Thanks again!  

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, KunfuMunky said:

I couldn't find any info on the upscaling part on the box.

I don't see anything on the specs that indicate "upscaling".  The main chip (MS9288A) simply converts VGA or YPbPr signals to HDMI with audio encoding.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
41 minutes ago, TEK Nemesis said:

I don't see anything on the specs that indicate "upscaling".  The main chip (MS9288A) simply converts VGA or YPbPr signals to HDMI with audio encoding.

it actually can clamp the output at 1080 (the "upscaling" wii2hdmi use that chip as well), but it requires a firmware change

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Kekule said:

it actually can clamp the output at 1080

Does your TV show it as 1080p when your Xbox shows 720p?  I would assume that that would be up-scaling.  Also, where is the firmware and how does we program it to the latest?  Thanks!

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, TEK Nemesis said:

Does your TV show it as 1080p when your Xbox shows 720p?  I would assume that that would be up-scaling.  Also, where is the firmware and how does we program it to the latest?  Thanks!

yes it does, but there isnt one available in the wild.  You have a to have the SDK for the chip and write it yourself... It's extermely difficult to get it from Macro Silicon.

Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, Kekule said:

yes it does, but there isnt one available in the wild.  You have a to have the SDK for the chip and write it yourself... It's extermely difficult to get it from Macro Silicon.

You can program the MS9288A or is there an EEPROM?

Link to post
Share on other sites

I was actually looking this up. One of the chips on board is made for white and black balance. They showed some sort of comparison side by side picture. It makes the white colors whiter. Maybe this is what people were talking about it looks a little bit brighter compared to the pound wire. It's hard for me to tell the difference. Not only that it has some sort of Chip that make sure every pixel is the way it's supposed to look... and if it senses something is off it will duplicate the image . I think it was called Auto delicing .. I think maybe this is why in this picture of a side-by-side comparison. I took a screenshot to zoom in to see if I can tell the difference if you look on the Apple on the left hand side it's missing half of the stem if you look on the right hand side it has the full stem I think this is where the Auto delicing comes in... and I will say something else when I was capturing footage between the pound wire and the Wii to HDMI for original Xbox. One wire goes to the PC where it is capturing the footage. But what it shows on PC monitor is delayed so you need another monitor to hook the capture device up to I have a small 28 in  television I use for it has HDMI hookups. When I was recording the side-by-side footage I noticed that my monitor the game monitor not the PC monitor that was getting the image and recording the image I'm talking about the one I'm looking at with no delay had a lot of green artifacting going on with the pound. Just thought I should add that in there. I don't know whether or not these specific chipsets Help on that end but I did not notice any on the Wii to HDMI.. attached is the image of the screenshot I took. There are a couple other spots that look better on the right side I just can't remember. Take a look for yourself what do you think?

Screenshot_20190522-170430_YouTube.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
6 minutes ago, Frank D'Agostino said:

I was actually looking this up. One of the chips on board is made for white and black balance. They showed some sort of comparison side by side picture. It makes the white colors whiter. Maybe this is what people were talking about it looks a little bit brighter compared to the pound wire. It's hard for me to tell the difference. Not only that it has some sort of Chip that make sure every pixel is the way it's supposed to look... and if it senses something is off it will duplicate the image . I think it was called Auto delicing .. I think maybe this is why in this picture of a side-by-side comparison. I took a screenshot to zoom in to see if I can tell the difference if you look on the Apple on the left hand side it's missing half of the stem if you look on the right hand side it has the full stem I think this is where the Auto delicing comes in... and I will say something else when I was capturing footage between the pound wire and the Wii to HDMI for original Xbox. One wire goes to the PC where it is capturing the footage. But what it shows on PC monitor is delayed so you need another monitor to hook the capture device up to I have a small 28 in  television I use for it has HDMI hookups. When I was recording the side-by-side footage I noticed that my monitor the game monitor not the PC monitor that was getting the image and recording the image I'm talking about the one I'm looking at with no delay had a lot of green artifacting going on with the pound. Just thought I should add that in there. I don't know whether or not these specific chipsets Help on that end but I did not notice any on the Wii to HDMI.. attached is the image of the screenshot I took. There are a couple other spots that look better on the right side I just can't remember. Take a look for yourself what do you think?

 

I'm fairly confidant that the 9288a is the same chip that pound uses.

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, TEK Nemesis said:

Nice!  I wonder how this chip compares to the MS9282.

the MS9282 doesnt have a build in MCU, and doesnt upscale,  but it will pass digital audio.  I prefer it over the 9288a, and am using the MS9282 in my project.

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, Kekule said:

the MS9282 doesnt have a build in MCU, and doesnt upscale,  but it will pass digital audio.  I prefer it over the 9288a, and am using the MS9282 in my project.

OK...  so for the OG Xbox, you feel that the MS9282 is better all around?  (i.e. better at lower resolutions, maybe?)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

    • By Zer0_1Sum
      Hi!
      Couple of days ago I decided to try repair my xbox which has been sitting on my shelf for at least 15 years after dying suddenly. I opened up a thread on reddit here, and chatted with KaosEngineeer over there.
       
      To sum up the current situation:
      -The xbox is unresponsive when pressing eject and power button, no sign of life. Back in the days it was repaired under warranty (substitution of the PSU) and then repaired and modded with Aladdin and Evo X.
      -Opening it up I noticed that the clock capacitor had leaked, but seemingly not caused any corrosion. I removed the cap and cleaned up with isopropyl  alcohol.
      - I tried checking the PSU and it seems to work, giving out 3.3 Volts on the standby contact (brown in my case). I tried short circuiting the standby with the PowON (white) contact by using a piece of wire metal, and I verified that the lines (orange, red and yellow) are more or less in line with the pinout (instead of being 5 Volts there are 5.27 Volts and instead of 12 Volts there are 10.73 Volts).

      - I checked both visually and with a multimeter that the 4 traces under the motherboard are uninterrupted. In particular, looking at this image:

       
      There is continuity between the cyan and violet pins on the PIC chip and the cyan and violet contact in the bottom of the image. The 4 resistances in the same image seem to work fine, with a value of about 10 kOhm each.
      -I checked that the front panel eject and power button work by verifying that, when pressed, they connect to ground the red and blue traces next to the 10kOhm signal resistances.
       
      -Now, the stangest thing: if  I give power, the brown contact is at 3.3 volts (verified while the psu is attached to the motherboard by inserting the multimeter probe in the top space between the plastic plug and the brown wire), but for some reason the PIC pins that should have the same voltage when the console is plugged (before and after pressing the eject and power button) remain at 0 Volt no matter if I press the front panel buttons or not and no matter if I choose a different point for ground ( I tried using all the black cables and the RF cage).
      So, basically I'm stuck. Any ideas?
      Thank you for help
    • By SpecFour
      This showed up on my local Craigslist and I picked it up.  It's one of those 2TB jobbers.
      I've never had an Xbox so I've learned quite a bit in the past 10 days.  I still haven't figured out if it is a 1.0 or a 1.1.  No fan on the heatsink, but unleashedX is telling me it is 1.0.  I'm not sure it matters to figure that out.
      The question is - does this pic show evidence of TSOP?  I haven't pulled the mobo out to see of there is something similar at R7R3.  Also, my C drive has a folder called bios and it sure looks like it has bios images in it.  As far as I can tell so far, those are useless with a softmod?  Is there another way to tell the difference between a softmod and TSOP?  (Which I believe means there was a softmod that was in place before the TSOP?)
      There is no modchip.  That's about all I know for absolute certain.
      Thank you!
       


    • By gears_fan
      Hello guys,
      This post will be somewhat long because I want to include as much relevant information as possible. 
      I have a v1.1 NTSC-U Xbox console, which I purchased brand new back in 2003. I modded it with a Xecuter 2.0 Pro mod chip sometime around 2004. It worked great for 2-3 years with no issues whatsoever. Then, out of nowhere, it started to intermittently FRAG. Sometimes it would boot just fine, but other times the Xbox would flash red and green and require me to reboot it 10 times in a row before it would boot to dashboard. Also, sometimes the Xbox would boot just fine and work for 2-3 hours straight and then, for no apparent reason, lose the video output. Interestingly enough, it would lose the video output only, but not audio. 
      I tried different BIOS versions as well as different banks on the Xecuter 2.0 mod chip, but to no avail. After all that, I decided that it was too much trouble and just stopped using this FRAGging Xbox. 
      Fast forward to 2020, and I decided to connect this old v1.1 Xbox to my TV and test it out. It worked great for the first two weeks, but then started FRAGging just like 14 years ago. It behaves exactly the same way as it used to – it might boot just fine 10 times in a row, or it might FRAG 20 times in a row. I reflashed the BIOS again, but to no avail. 
      I also noticed a few more things. First, the removal of the DVD drive and/or hard drive does not seem to affect the FRAGging at all. The console can still FRAG with both drives completely disconnected. 
      Also, if the Xbox boots to dashboard with no issues, I can easily make it lose the video output by knocking on the table on which the Xbox is sitting or by touching the AV cable. If I reboot the console immediately after that, the Xbox would usually FRAG. Bad AV cable, right? Nope. I tried four different AV cables/adapters and this is happening with all of them. All said cables work perfectly with my v1.0 Xbox and no amount of knocking on the table or touching the cables can make this second Xbox lose the video output. 
      Here is the list of AV cables that I tried with the same result (i.e. intermittent FRAGging on my v1.1 Xbox and no issues on my v1.0 Xbox):
      1. OEM Microsoft Composite cable
      2. OEM Microsoft AV pack
      3. OEM Microsoft HD AV pack
      4. Third party HD AV pack
      Here are a few more things that I did:
      * Sprayed the AV connector in the Xbox with DeoxIT D5 and inspected it for damage
      * Reflowed all solder joints on the AV connector, twice
      * Inspected the traces on the motherboard near the AV connector
      Here is a list of things that I could still do (but would rather not):
      * Stop relying on the AV connector. Instead, solder the wires to it and add component video and coaxial audio jacks to the back of the Xbox console. Unfortunately, there is no guarantee that this will solve the FRAG issue. 
      This Xbox was used by an adult and was never dropped or abused.
      At this point, I am not sure what else I can do besides soldering wires to the AV port and adding audio and video output jacks to the back of the Xbox. Does anyone have any idea of what might be happening? 
      P.S. The pictures of the motherboard are attached to this post.  



Board Life Status


Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48

Best VPN


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.