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Hello

I've wired this for an internal mod. 720p is amazing but 480p i get moving diagonal line interference.

As mentioned earlier in this thread, i was going to add a capacitor across ground and 5v. will this fix it?

Do i use ceramic or electrolytic  for this?

thanks

 

Edited by AtariSoul
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Took me 2 days to get all the wiring right. for the wii2hdmi for og xbox modd ... using a wii2hdmi device ordered off eBay you can also find an Alibaba and other places like this. Very inexpensive aro

Tried this mod today.  It's pretty good. It will need an end cap though.  Luckily some brilliant person made up this 3D printable one (attached).    xbox2hdmi 3D printer file.stl

I was actually looking this up. One of the chips on board is made for white and black balance. They showed some sort of comparison side by side picture. It makes the white colors whiter. Maybe this is

Posted Images

Elektrolyt!

Vor 17 Minuten sagte AtariSoul:

einen Kondensator über Masse und 5 V sagen. Wird verursacht das Problem verursacht?

Benutze ich gehört Keramik oder Elektrolyt?   

 

 

 

ein Versuch kann nicht schaden !!!

Elektrolyt !!! zB 100µF mindestens  10Volt, Polung !

Gruß

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18 hours ago, SS_Dave said:

A quick test with a multi meter here tells me they are the Left and Right audio signal so they must have been there unless it was digital audio only cable(unlikely).

FEDEDAA3-E59D-4C87-B036-C49EF6B24EFF.thumb.jpeg.f88c411273e1e9b7b5dae65dae823315.jpeg.ade7c992a23452457084f2b46a6d383d.jpeg

You could relocate the pins from the Digital audio out and 1 of the audio grounds to the 2 missing pins.

 

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

Thank you so much Dave for taking the time to help me! 

So in other words you are saying that I could use Digital audio out as a replacement for those two missing pins? Would it work as follows: 

I should connect Digital audio out (number 6 in this attached pic) to Wii2HDMI board point R "Front red" 

I should ALSO connect ANOTHER wire from Digital audio out to point L bottom white?

I should also connect Right and Left Audio Grounds in a normal manner from point 4 to G and from point 5 to G.  

1839766861_Final2.thumb.png.ae3bb594d1899196e5e16ab34ceabe06.png

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7 hours ago, AtariSoul said:

Hello

I've wired this for an internal mod. 720p is amazing but 480p i get moving diagonal line interference.

As mentioned earlier in this thread, i was going to add a capacitor across ground and 5v. will this fix it?

Do i use ceramic or electrolytic  for this?

thanks

 

I would suggest a electrolytic cap. 

Make sure the wii2hdmi has a good ground and where did you get the 5 volt supply from? are the wires as short as practicable?

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

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On 12/30/2020 at 8:22 PM, SS_Dave said:

I would suggest a electrolytic cap. 

Make sure the wii2hdmi has a good ground and where did you get the 5 volt supply from? are the wires as short as practicable?

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

Hello @SS_Dave Happy New Year

I tried different caps I have... 16v 100uf made a very slight improvement, then 25v 10uf same as without a cap. Last I  tried a 10v 220uf which was slightly better than the first, but its still got the moving diagonal lines. It comes and goes, sometimes its not there and then it starts getting more noticeable.

As in the diagram above, I have pin 1 on the PCB underside connected to the pin 1 on the front of the board (the yellow ones) 

Do I need a better ground? I noticed in a previous post you suggested a point on the board that's connected to the HDMI outside metal.

Do I need to find an alternative 5v supply rather than pin 1 on the XBOX AV port?

I have not removed the existing AV port, but soldering underneath it directly to the pcb

Thanks in advance

:) 

Edited by AtariSoul
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23 minutes ago, AtariSoul said:

"Ich habe den vorhandenen AV-Anschluss nicht entfernt, sondern darunter direkt auf die Platine gelötet"

long wires in the video signals catch interference signals (50hz mains hum, higher frequency signals from switched-mode power supplies, etc.) !!!

 

 

 

 

 

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On 12/31/2020 at 2:42 AM, aki__ said:

Thank you so much Dave for taking the time to help me! 

So in other words you are saying that I could use Digital audio out as a replacement for those two missing pins? Would it work as follows: 

I should connect Digital audio out (number 6 in this attached pic) to Wii2HDMI board point R "Front red" 

I should ALSO connect ANOTHER wire from Digital audio out to point L bottom white?

I should also connect Right and Left Audio Grounds in a normal manner from point 4 to G and from point 5 to G.  

 

Not the digital signal but remove the pin from the plug that is marked as the digital output and refit it in the plug to the missing analog signal.

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

 

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34 minutes ago, AtariSoul said:

Hello @SS_Dave Happy New Year

I tried different caps I have... 16v 100uf made a very slight improvement, then 25v 10uf same as without a cap. Last I  tried a 10v 220uf which was slightly better than the first, but its still got the moving diagonal lines. It comes and goes, sometimes its not there and then it starts getting more noticeable.

As in the diagram above, I have pin 1 on the PCB underside connected to the pin 1 on the front of the board (the yellow ones) 

Do I need a better ground? I noticed in a previous post you suggested a point on the board that's connected to the HDMI outside metal.

Do I need to find an alternative 5v supply rather than pin 1 on the XBOX AV port?

I have not removed the existing AV port, but soldering underneath it directly to the pcb

Thanks in advance

:) 

The 5 volt from the AV port is fine.

When you are testing it is the Xbox assembled in the case with the metal shield.

What type and size wire did you use? I twist 4 strand of CAT5 cable 3 video and 1 ground together and the same for the 2 audio and 1 of the grounds then also use a slightly bigger wire for the main ground

What type of RGB to HDMI interface are you using?  

I have done mods like that with no problems and even set some up with a auto switch to be able to have Composite output on a stock AV lead or component via HDMI.

You have tested it on a different screen as well.

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

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@SS_Dave

I like your idea of using ethernet cable wires :)

I always test with the PCB in the base of the case. 

I have read a lot of your posts on this and have tried the following with no success.

1. Tested resistance between outside of ethernet port and 5v on the board...0 ohms... good !

2. added cap across 5v and ground on board. 10uf 10v no difference, 100uf 16v slightly better, 220uf 10v a little better. The moving diagonal lines come and go now.

3. soldered the HDMI case mount underneath board to ground next to pr/pb/y

4. tried different monitor and HDMI.

--

Before I give up with the internal mod, I think I have 2 more options to try

1. replace all the 5 3300uf caps on this v1.6 XBOX (and the clock cap too while I'm at it)

2. solder shorter wires...a bit difficult when soldering to the AV port pins underneath and I will try ethernet wires (24awg) as you have suggested.

 

I can see that several others with this moving diagonal lines problem too on 480p but the picture on 720p and 1080i is rock solid and deep colours. No one seems to have posted a solution unfortunately.

Thanks for your time an patience

 

 

Edited by AtariSoul
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On 1/3/2021 at 2:42 AM, AtariSoul said:

@SS_Dave

I like your idea of using ethernet cable wires :)

I always test with the PCB in the base of the case. 

I have read a lot of your posts on this and have tried the following with no success.

1. Tested resistance between outside of ethernet port and 5v on the board...0 ohms... good !

2. added cap across 5v and ground on board. 10uf 10v no difference, 100uf 16v slightly better, 220uf 10v a little better. The moving diagonal lines come and go now.

3. soldered the HDMI case mount underneath board to ground next to pr/pb/y

4. tried different monitor and HDMI.

--

Before I give up with the internal mod, I think I have 2 more options to try

1. replace all the 5 3300uf caps on this v1.6 XBOX (and the clock cap too while I'm at it)

2. solder shorter wires...a bit difficult when soldering to the AV port pins underneath and I will try ethernet wires (24awg) as you have suggested.

 

I can see that several others with this moving diagonal lines problem too on 480p but the picture on 720p and 1080i is rock solid and deep colours. No one seems to have posted a solution unfortunately.

Thanks for your time an patience

 

 

It could also be the type of Wii2HDMI adaptor.

The RGB signal is also at the 3 black inductors on the top of the board between the Video chip and the AV connector.

1225373028_Version1.1.jpg.f9d52fc4d02f25fd55ad07038c5874b5.jpg I think I might have mixed up the RGB order in this pic put you get the idea.

 

On my HDMI conversions the wii2hdmi PCB is soldered directly to the main board in place of the AV port and I have not noticed any interference.

IMG_20200612_071530.thumb.jpg.568e0c9f5740cc163d00f43844b4f601.jpg

IMG_20200612_194220.thumb.jpg.ba4ab6c44cf6305370967cfa4ec1d176.jpg

The version I have done with both HDMI and the AV port with a auto switch from composite to component for the HDMI uses a external RGB to HDMI converter fitted internally and I have not noticed any problems with it either.

71wmaQdKeBL._AC_SL1500_.thumb.jpg.7fad948add9ac6c86d2007823fa02752.jpgIMG_20191117_203011.thumb.jpg.4f5e3f9abb3da99d95b62e538e8d1b3f.jpg

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

 

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Hello All, I hope you are well :) 

Thanks for your email @SS_Dave Yes I have seen the component box and I have a spare to try this on.... but alas my attempts to get the wii2hdmi mod working have gone from bad to worse.

I had a working v1.6 wired to the underneath of the AV port, fantastic 720p and 1080i on the dashboard, but moving diagonal lines interference that comes and goes on 480p in games.

As you suggested, I replaced all 5 of the 3300uf 6.3 v caps with 3300uf 10v as I noticed on my v1.4 a 3300uf 10v cap was blown on my v1.4, so thought I'd save time and order a load of 10v caps.

My v1.6 worked after replacing the caps but the ***king interference was still there.

I ordered another wii2hdmi and installed it, but the colour was b&w so I rechecked and soldered the replacement and thats when the FRAG started. WTF.

I checked the gold clock cap and I think that went bad as I could not get an increasing resistance, just OL even after removing it. But I replaced it because I know v1.6 has to have it. Still got a FRAG. 

I've ordered an ESR meter to properly test the caps because I can only test the resistence on the meter I have. 

Do you think the 3300uf 10v caps have caused an issue? I thought as long as the cap voltage was higher then it would be fine with a matching 3300uf?

I will test all the 10v and original 6.3v caps when the ESR meter arrives.

This v1.6 has a xecuter v2.6 and I read the FRAG could also relate to a dodby flash, but it was all working before. I even could disable the chip on the switch and boot without a dvd to get the standard error screen. Now nothing but 3 attempts at booting and then FRAG.

I thought if I de-soldered the d0 on the LPC converter, remove the modchip from the header it would at least boot. but no.

I wish I'd just made an external wii2hdmi from a spare AV cable I have now. 

My wife says why don't you give up, but its the challenge of fixing it that prevents me from putting a hammer to it LOL!

I have 4 other XBOX's I want to TSOP as I haven't done that before, and install a Xenium.

Thanks

AtariSoul

Edited by AtariSoul
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The 10 volt capacitors in place of the 6.3 volt is 100% ok the main thing is to not change the value or go a lower voltage than what was there.

The fact it worked after you changed the caps and stopped after you fitted the 2nd wii2hdmi I would be looking for a possible solder splash on the board.

I will not be the modchip and as you have disconnected the D0 and it still fragging that confirms that the chip is OK, Also check that the Lframe trace has not been cut as that could cause a FRAG with out the mod chip.

833287352_1.6XboxLframe.jpg.c84ad20e1427d2a4961f4e5c1b5e73d9.jpg

 

Maybe post a pic of the board.

 

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

 

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18 hours ago, SS_Dave said:

The 10 volt capacitors in place of the 6.3 volt is 100% ok the main thing is to not change the value or go a lower voltage than what was there.

The fact it worked after you changed the caps and stopped after you fitted the 2nd wii2hdmi I would be looking for a possible solder splash on the board.

I will not be the modchip and as you have disconnected the D0 and it still fragging that confirms that the chip is OK, Also check that the Lframe trace has not been cut as that could cause a FRAG with out the mod chip.

833287352_1.6XboxLframe.jpg.c84ad20e1427d2a4961f4e5c1b5e73d9.jpg

 

Maybe post a pic of the board.

 

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

 

Hello @SS_Dave

I've checked both sides of the board and can't see anything that could cause the FRAG. 

Pictures attached.

Thanks for your help. Its really appreciated 

😃 😃 

20210116_010819.jpg

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Hello @SS_Dave

Well I checked where you said and I couldn't see anything wrong. I use a high magnification lens to check.

I decided to put the original caps back and the clock cap and now its dead. So I have sent the motherboard to the great mobo heaven in the sky. 

Thanks for all your help

:) 

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  • 1 month later...

I just made one of these this weekend.  I liked @SS_Dave's idea of using CAT5 wires, because they're cheap/free out of my box of random cables, and they're color coded for easier identification, but mostly because I only had some 28 AWG wire as my only other alternative.  The downside, at least for my cheap CAT5 wires, was that the insulation melts too easily.

The good news is that it works. 

The bad news is, I get really bad interference lines.  It exhibited faint lines when I pre-tested it with my Wii, but I read in a post somewhere that it behaves better when used with the XBOX.  It does not... it's much worse here.

I thought about sourcing some capacitors to try that trick, but I'm not very encouraged by @AtariSoul's experience a few posts up. 

20210222_005751.jpg

20210221_190738 (1).jpg

20210221_190704 (1).jpg

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I would try a different wii2hdmi as there is 2 different types but unfortunately they are identical from the outside so is luck of the draw.

IMG_20200612_071530.thumb.jpg.b1b01c451e53a856e07b71b2cb933460.jpg 

Or better yet get a HDMI internal kit from N64 Freak

IMG_20200612_071737.thumb.jpg.c0a55413565c36c5446c614b42ed5c45.jpg

 

IMG_20200612_194220.jpg.8dde1b0501f8d4f0158562f4faaaecfd.jpg

 

Lastly this item claims to be better than a wii2hdmi

 

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

 

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I gave up trying to get rid of the interference . It was on a 1.6. I have made a couple of component cables from XBOX360 cables and the quality is great and I can't see much difference between this wii2hdmi mod and the cable, although that's from memory, not side by side.

 

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On 2/22/2021 at 4:27 AM, SS_Dave said:

I would try a different wii2hdmi as there is 2 different types but unfortunately they are identical from the outside so is luck of the draw.

Unfortunately, I've already bought 5 of these things (2 from Amazon, and 3 from AliExpress).  All 5 showed some degree of interference when I tested using my Wii.  I don't think I can stomach buying any more of them.

 

On 2/22/2021 at 4:27 AM, SS_Dave said:

Or better yet get a HDMI internal kit from N64 Freak

That's a nice piece of hardware, but at that price point, I think I'll wait to see how the MakeMHz option works out.  It looks like there's been some progress lately (hopefully).

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On 2/22/2021 at 6:08 PM, corona2222 said:

Theres a couple of settings on my TV which reduced the faint lines for my wii2HDMI to almost nothing.

Off the top of my head i believe they are 'sharpness' and 'noise reduction' in the picture menu, yours might have something similar.

 

When I first read your comment, I thought there was no way in hell; but I figured I'd go ahead and try it.  The main menu for Halo looks great after some tweaking.  Unfortunately though, the interference comes back to a certain extent when I load up my savegame.  It is definitely much better now though, so thanks for the suggestion.  I'll try playing with the settings some more, but I'm not sure it's worth keeping this way if I can't get it any better than what I have here.

Edit:  It's really hard to see the interference in the photo, especially after I had to resize it to post.  But it's definitely still there.

20210224_034052.jpg

20210224_034305.jpg

Edited by Cliff
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      V1.6 OSSC :  With all the settings, x1 and x2 scanline too, and two TV, the signal  loose a part of the intensity. The OSSC was alimented wall but only for the LCD screen I think, no to boost the signal. (Signal is affected in the normal processus of all adaptators).  The picture was pale and bleach. Next,  in X1, there was no difference compared  good component except the precedent problem. Problem 3 : In x2, the game is pixelised like 2D 1987 games. Problem 4: About audio; There is not input hdmi, it need an adaptator for the two cables stereo before plug in,  and there is no alimentation for boost the signal affected by this new stuff, and nothing for boost the signal if we connect the audio directly to the speaker ( using an adaptator too). And it's perhaps not 5.1 dolby sourround or DTS. 
      MCLASSIC : The leds set the format of the resolution, not the quantity of pixels. Mode blue it's for an old square tv and mode green for a larger format. The mode off is like the green. I did not see the visual difference, the pixels are exactly  the same at the same place with the same flashing artefacts . But it's perhaps for another king of  tv or another king of console. After that, it need a good wall charger.  Yes, the pixel shapes are attenuated.
      MCABLE GAMING. The not exspensive and not specialised cable '' Premium hight speed /HEC HDMI '' do the stone and building more realistic than the Mcable because it don't blur a part of the texture. At the same time, the Mcable gaming do the best shiny and polished textures, electric arc, water. It reduce the pixelisation of the game . But if we like the realistic stone and dislike to see psycadelic effects when some thin lines are near each others,  it is an option. Finaly, the Mcable is better than all these kinds of cables because it have the capacity to involve the totality of the signal  and upgrade all lights ambiance, textures, metalic or shiny effects. And is hight quality give the better definition. With a computer, the Mcable show more details than the HEC HDMI, but the xbox have not enough definition for did a difference at this point.  
      TV : The winner was : Panasonic TC-L32U3.  Second place : Panasonic TC-L32X5. The very poor others are : LG 47LN5750, SAMSUNG UN50TU7000F.
       

      Finaly, the https://makemhz.com/  is perhaps better than the chimeric so I will change the chimeric for it and keep all the settings and materials in this set up.     
    • By fatmedic1337
      Started my Xbox for the firat time in ages. i heard bubblig noise and a strong small hit me. So i pulled out the power cord and opend the Xbox. Could only find some liqud that Smelled stron on the harddrive pleas help.
    • By TWesten
      Can I ask the community for some help please: I’m trying to make a back-up of my WD Blue 1TB hard drive from my Xbox and can’t seem to get the duplicated drive to boot.
      My Xbox is modded with an Xecuter X3 chip and that is working fine; I have the X3 panel on the front which is lighting up blue and booting ok with my original drive – and it is booting to the X3 bios on my duplicate one.
      I’ve duplicated my original drive using HDD Raw Copy 1.10 (through two separate USB docking stations). Obviously I received read errors throughout the process; but it has reached 100% and finished.
      However, when I plugged in the back-up drive and booted up the Xbox, I got error code 16.
      When I switched banks and booted to the X3 bios it updated some settings; but when I boot to the bios bank that should be loading my XBMC Media Centre dashboard, I get error code 13.
      Basically my question is: am I missing something/doing something wrong?
      I wonder if I still need to “tell” the bios that this is a different drive somehow?
      Any advice gratefully received thanks.

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48

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