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I'm very new to the modding scene. I'm using pretty cheap Component cables but everything looks and sounds fine in 480i. I've tried using MS dash to enable the settings but it seems to have no effect. It stays ON in MS even after reboot but there's no change. Once I enable any of the HD settings in UnleashX and reboot, I hear everything but no video outputs. I've tried each one 1 at a time and just 2 and all 3. Same result, no video output. For info, It's a v1.6 with an Aladdin XT, I Added 2Tb HDD. Unlocked. And it's NTSC. Am I missing something simple or could this be bad cables or motherboard issue? Every guide I've seen makes it look so simple. When I plug in my composite cable it will automatically reboot and I don't have the option to enable or disable HD. I can't set it to default with composite cables. The only way I can undo it is by listening the audio and going through the menu blind and changing it back with my component cable. Which isn't that difficult. I can't find this specific issue here so if it exists I'd be happy to read the thread. Thank you.

I've TSOP modded around 6 OG Xboxes. One of the last 2 I worked on, had no composite video output, though audio works and using my component cables worked too. I mod these and and refurbish to the best of my ability and surprisingly the few I've sold have done well and the people are very happy with them. The component on L4A1 is physically damaged on mine. Here's a photo for reference of what one looks like. This is not mine. I can get an actual photo of mine if necessary... Maybe I damaged mine when removing the mobo to clean everything and solder the TSOP joints? who knows. It's damaged. It looks like the top is sheared right off and still hanging there attached off to the side. I'm guessing this is the culprit of my lack of composite. I wouldn't want to sell one with composite cables that doesn't do composite output... I think I should fix this and include the stock cables and they can decide if they want to use an HDMI adapter or not. My question is, where can I buy this component? I found a few threads here discussing it, but never where to get one. Do I need to steal it from a parts console? Secondly, if I do NOT fix this and sell it including an HDMI adapter, will that work just like my component cables are working? For reference, here are some threads discussing this component.

Hello everyone, A while back I bought a couple of Xbox's 1.0 , 1.3 & a 1.6 . Fixed the first two up and running , now the last one turns on and off 3 times, then flashes red/green without video, previous owner says it had the error 06 but for me It doesn't give a video signal at all. A visual inspection of the board for any bulged capacitors shows no obvious faults, although I am aware that sometimes with an ESR meter (which i dont have) you can tell which is good and which is bad. I'm using a component cable and the V1.6 xbox is a PAL unit and the hard drive inside is definitely not stock 160GB storage and no hard mod is installed. A quick search gives me the idea that its probably the eeprom ( dead or corrupted ) if that is the case and assuming i have no backup as i do not know what the previous owner did to it, what should i do ? if not any ideas what should i check / do to troubleshoot the problem ? . I have a Rpi , arduino and an old eeprom universal flasher ( i will check if it supports the chips ). Oh and i have an Aladdin XT PLUS2 on hand if that would help , but kindly note that I have never used them before but if someone has a guide that would be appreciated as well. Best Regards SP

Listing of materials tested: OSSC V1.6 Chimeric HDMI Konig component Full RGB AV+optical Composite original Pound (2020) Mcable gaming Mclassic Monster component x400 Monster component x200 Variety of wall chargers and HDMI cables All the combinations and configurations had tested. Tested with 4 TV and two Xbox : V 1.6 no modded, V1.0 XBMC ( when it was possible, but no one did consequential differences ) Winner! Xbox+Chimeric+Mclassic (green led (alimented wall)) +Mcable gaming (alimented wall). Explanation The monster component x400 was a little better than konig component, and the monster x200 was like composite because the three plugs are video x1 and stereo x2. Not three RGB like I had thinking. Next, I tested all settings of the OSSC expecting upgrade my video with a HDMI solution. The picture was worst than the monster. With the good material, perhaps it's possible. But the OSSC loose always a part of the signal, event it is alimented. The pound (with mini usb port) was very poor. Yes, it's very better than composite but: Green filter. Not very sharp etc. But it's wasn't a problem because I had bet all on the Chimeric. Finaly, I recived the chimeric, and horror, the monster component smashes far more once again , with is colors very realistic and the picture very compatible with the signal source. I pluged the Mcable and the Mclassic, but this changed nothing. I thinking pass all my life with monster x400. There was some additionnal issues like horizontal lines "flapping" or noise in the textures. After to have expected an issus of fabrication, I Shipped an message to Chimeric system. Before to receive a response, I had set up the stuff again, and this is it! It work fine. Mclassic was alimented in the pc port, but we need to put it in the wall. We need to find the perfect Tv setting too because the signal is different of any sources. So the best mode need to be (desatured with wider spectrum. All spectrum of light and colors). Now it is better than the monster component. And better than the chimeric only. The stuff do all that it must to do. But, after that, I upgraded the output video another time with an astuce. I bought some different wall charger more powerful and the video become consequently much higher. Now with the good wall charger. It's a masterpiece. How setting this Winning combination. Xbox dashboard- Audio : Use Stereo if you have 2 speakers (or stereo+DTS). Souround + dolby for 5 speakers. Mclassic: Mode green. Alimented by a wall charger 5v- 1.8 A. Little bit hight or less. Mcable Gaming: Alimented by a wall charger 5v -2.4 A Tv(Flat): Here my setting for exemple : Contraste 100, Brillance 63, Couleur 50, Netteté 100, image-ia EF, cats HF, reduc HF If the TV has more pixels than the video source, zoomed in will not do appear new details in the pictures, but increase the sharpenes and clarity of theirs . See picture 1-2. A higher format TV will provide more sharpeness and natural with this set up. But it's the inverse result with a cheap ultra-HD tv. Picture 3-4. The winnig TV was : 1080p Panasonic TC-L32U3. Second place : Panasonic TC-L32X5. The two other TV ultra Hd (were very bad) : LG 47LN5750-UH and SAMSUNG UN50TU7000F The V1.6 xbox, with Panasonic tv and Chimeric, added vertical shadow lines with halo 2 and halo 1 on the sky and on the pale background textures. But nothing else. It run perfectly since 2004. The V1.0 XBOX XBMC added horizontal artefacts with all the games and emulators. But don't has the precedent problem with the shadow lines. His cd drive works poorly. The second best set up was : Pound alimented wall (with the same settings and stuff) . Only switch the chimeric by the Pound. For exemple, the set up with Chimeric seem that. The monster component x400 do the best picture and sound for easy and low budget. And the colors are more natural than the Pound. Konig: AV component RGB+optical in one. Show details clear. Dont't blur. But did a video quality inferior than Monster x400. The V1.6 OSSC : With all the settings, in x1 and x2 too, and with two TV, did the signal and the colors loose their intensity. The picture was pale and bleach. And in X1, there was no global difference compared good component (except the previews problems). In x2, the game was pixelised like 2D 1987 games, without degrad. He was made for keep the squarred pixels of old console. He was not made for the Xbox or consoles 480p or more. Audio problems : Not make to transfer the best audio possible because he can not out put the audio by HDMI. To plug somewhere, it need an extra connector because the input is a jack 1/8. and that cause a losing of signal. He is not do for the Xbox or console 480p or more. Good Generique HDMI cable: Make the stone texture more natural than the mcable gaming, but was less good for the shiny-lustred surfaces and did the picture more pixelised. The mcable gaming did the surfaces that was clear or polish (like water, electricity, and metal) more realistic and upgraded. Halo2 has textures 3d-like based on the details of mapping. So, when I added extra signal boost with the wall chargers, and used the mcable gaming, it was like if new textures was appears. Chimeric: Added red filter with the TC-L32U3 TV, and perhaps very little with the samsung TV . He did thin shaded lines in the bleach textures of Halo2 with the V1.6 xbox. Pound: Added green filter impossible to remove completly. Plus has the same issu than the chimeric (horizontal shaded lines) but this lines were only with halo 2 on the panasonic TC-L32U3 and the xbox V1.6) Mclassic : Works with all. TV Cartoon too. Need wall charger of 1.8 A (approximately). The two modes don't affect the defenition. Only the resolution. Audio Souround 5.1=5 speakers . Stereo=two speakers. That mean that dolby souround on XBOX is useless if you don't have the stuff. Note that the sound was really better with a good component than with the composite. But, I noticed no audio differences between monster and this winning set up. My external stereo speakers cleared the sound compared to my internal tv speakers. If you want speakers, you need receiveur Yamaha. Speakers only don't work. If you want for gaming, select the speakers with a natural sound, and did for classic-JAZZ musics. Games need hight frequency sound ( metalic, robots, cars crash, bullet impacts, shield, bird cry, wind, radio, snap-crunch). And take speakers that have not box shape, to have realistic sound. I am using a Yamaha receiver R-s300 with two small Paradigm that have a rounded plastic shape. Finaly, the https://makemhz.com/ seems to be better than the chimeric. So I will change the chimeric for it and keep all the settings and materials in this set up. Thanks SS_Dave for help.

Hi, hope you can all help, I've done my research, searching and have the same issue as in the other thread, but creating a new thread so that his issue doesn't get complicated. I've had my NTSC box since day one purchase, softmodded when that first became available, upgraded the harddrive. All was working fine when I used the xbox last year. Plugging it in today and I get solid green light, no video, no audio, no flubber, and no eject DVD. What I've done so far. Bought another PAL XBOX from ebay (just in case I can't fix the other one) - it's a 1.6. Swapped what I thought was the faulty DVD drive to the new xbox, it works fine. Tried the red, yellow, white cable and SCART (no image) Tried the HD component box (no image) I've inspected the board, I don't think anything as leaked, here are some pictures. Pics: I don't think any cap has blown leaked. https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aoee44V6bKCWkKo9bdQ6KcH5zzHPEg https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aoee44V6bKCWkKo-Vg7utgm8-U14tQ Questions: Is the fix at this point, to try to do the coma fix as above I'm a soldering noob, so going to need to practice that first! Is there a way of getting anything off the old harddrive? I've kept eeprom etc or do I have to try the above first as can't swap the harddrive to the new xbxox. Do I need to check the underside of the motherboard? I've not done this yet. Any help, much appreciated, thank you.

Hey guys, just wondering if someone could confirm a suspicion of mine. So a while ago I dug out my old OG Xbox (V1.3 I believe) and found it wasn't working, it would switch on for a couple seconds then power off again. Did some research and found that the dreaded clock cap had leaked and one of the traces on the back was broken. So I removed the motherboard with the intention of repairing it, but then life got in the way and I didn't have the time so it sat in pieces for the best part of a year before I found the time to fix it. So I managed to remove the clock cap and clean the board, then I jumped the broken trace with a wire between the test points. (All good there, no shorts that I could find) I also changed the thermal paste on the GPU and CPU to Arctic MX4 while I was at it. So I put it all back together again, plugged it into my old SCART tv, it turns on from the power button fine, has a solid green light, you can hear the hard drive starting up too (still has the original in it right now) but there is no audio or video output to the tv. I tried a different AV cable but got the same result, and I know the tv is good cause my Sega Saturn works fine through the SCART. Also worth mentioning that the DVD drive (Samsung) won't open by it's self. I cleaned up the belt and greased the slides but same result. I tried it with the top of the DVD drive off so I could see and it looks like the laser moves about like it wants to open but the motor makes no attempt to spin up. So in short I have a V1.3 Xbox that shows a solid green light, No video, No audio and the DVD drive doesn't open. From what I've read on here so far it sounds like I may have a corrupt BIOS/coma console on my hands (though I heard V1.0 and V1.1 were more prone to that). What do you guys think?

I found this on reddit, but it did not looking it was ever resolved.Changed the 3 caps under the CPU and now sound but no picture! Any ideas? I am having the same issue where I had to replace 5 blown caps, but afterwards I am getting no video. I can hear the boot animation, but I get no video. I have reflowed many times. Not sure where exactly to start checking. Any help would be appreciated.

hey all, Building a cocktail arcade cabinet, which requires the display to be mounted vertically instead of the typical horizontal orientation. The TV display we are using doesn't have the ability to do it within its menu. I've seen an option to do so on non Xbox arcade cabinets (and it actually flipped 180degrees for 2 player games as well) , i was wondering if anyone knew how to do it with a modded xbox, either natively within UnleashX or XBMC-emustation or XBMC4Gamers....or another way. CoinOps has limited capability to do so with certain games, but it also inverts controls when doing so. Any help or guidance you have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hi, i have xbox 1.0 and i have a problem with it. When I turn on, I do not have a signal video and audio to the green LED, it blinks 3 times, then it lights constantly. When I connect the alladdin, the video is sometimes broken, the green LED lights up in the thread. (how was the work, normal work) However, it was from sound, it does not give a video and so every now and then (picture as it is white) The cable component is working. What is your problem? Any ideas please.

At first I thought it was the processing into the XISO format or the XISO playback but I've recently bought an NTSC retail disc and I'm still have this issue on my NTSC console. TSOP modded , rev 1.4 Here are the only historical posts I could find about this - https://forums.operationsports.com/forums/espn-nfl-2k5-football/59228-big-problem-xbox-espn-nfl.html The 2003 Post from the first link, It makes no sense that forcing an NTSC game to PAL50 fixed his issue but moreover why am I having an issue with a NTSC game on my NTSC console? I don't have an unmodded console to test, unfortunately.

Had a weird experience with my latest mod, an xbox 1.6 chipped with an Aladdin XT. First, the dvd drive has a terrible sticking problem I have been unable to fix so far. So, I swapped out dvd drive with another one from a parts xbox, oddly the new dvd drive will play official discs but seems not to read burned discs despite the modchip??? So, unable to boot Hexen I had to swap back to the original (sticky) drive in order to set up the new hdd. When I attempted to run my tried and true copy of Hexen 2017 the disc still refused to recognize at all for some reason (btw just wtf here, this disc has always worked on every other xbox I've modded - but now no), but a copy of Hexen 2018 did in fact boot right up. I went ahead with Hexen 2018 (although I prefer to use 2017 due to having some issue previously with 2018, I can't remember now just what..) and everything seemed to go okay... until I tried to set up hd video modes. I get this error, 'msdash.xbe does not exist' or something similar. Seems that does not get installed when you use Hexen 2018??? According to some thread this file IS included on Hexen 2017 which makes sense because I never had this issue before. Anyways, after all this I just got impatient and ftp'd a copy of msdash.xbe over from another previously modded xbox 1.6 running the same modchip and... now the machine errors out with hardware error 21 every time I try to run the ms dashboard. I feel like I'm starting to lose my mind, I actually already had a couple of other issues earlier on in this mod but got past them. I saw another suggestion to just download msdash.xbe from the internet but when I googled to download it there were like four different versions or something and I really just don't want to mess around anymore. Can anyone help? Thanks in advance if so...

I messed up. Was fiddling around with configmagic trying to lock the HDD on my chipped Xbox 1.6 so I can transfer and use the HDD on my softmodded Xbox. I followed this guide here: https://www.biline.ca/xbox_uxe_hd2.htm I was able to update the EEPROM as stated and locked the HDD so it can be used on the softmodded Xbox. That worked fine. But now my chipped Xbox turns on but no picture or video whatsoever. I don't know what to do next...

Hey there everyone. I watched a video on YouTube on a Modded Xbox. During the initial startup of the Xbox, it shows an animation and a custom dashboard. Does anyone know how to add the animation before the menu shows up and how to customize the menu?? I have never seen this before except for this video. Any help would be most appreciated. Thank you. Here is a Link to the Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uw91sVm2fkI&t=1s Starts at 8:03 minutes Thanks Again!!

So I’ve got an Xbox 1.0 that was opened before me when I got it. It flashes red and green after 3 reboots and I get no video please help!! 3 reboots and no video. I’ve changed a couple caps near the clock cap hoping it would be that but no luck. I removed clock capacitor cleaned the whole board with ipa and tested it and still no luck. Bought an Aladdin off eBay hooked it up and still nothing worked. Could someone have done a bad eeprom flash? I’ve ruled out the power supply already and even with the HDD and dvd drive unplugged it still doesn’t work. As far as I can tell the tsop points are not bridged . What else can I try to fix this?

All, Is there somewhere where i can download video previews for all the og xbox games so that xbmc4gamers can play them? Thanks in advance!

Hello, I have used the official component cable for my original Xbox for years without any issues, until now. This is what happens: https://youtu.be/RihPxD0JcB0 This only seems to happen on menu's. No problems in-game so far. At first, I thought the cable was damaged, so I bought a Kaico HDMI adapter to replace it, but this is what happens when I use it: https://youtu.be/iLw4o2IqtGE I decided to grab my older Xbox from the attic for testing and both cables work perfectly on that console, so I think the cables are not the issue. I'm no expert at all, so can somebody tell me what's going on with my console? Can it be fixed?

conexant - jailbars on analog output, best component output. focus - looks good all round. xclibus - crap component, best analog output.

So I just installed a Aladdin xt chip today and powered on, no audio or video. Light on chip is on and light on eject button starts green and goes to green/red flashing. I cleaned it with alcohol and still nothing. Anyone know what the issue could be.

Hello everyone! This is my first post, so apologies if it’s formatted incorrectly. I’m currently having a tough time trying to diagnose what could be causing my Xbox to output a wobbly video signal as seen here. I’ve tried -swapping power supplies -replacing the 5 caps near the cpu -giving the board and console a deep clean I’m thinking maybe it’s a grounding issue? Or perhaps the video encoding chip is about to die? Honestly I’m at a loss. Any help would be very much appreciated. Thank you guys.

My Xbox is not modded in any way. It has composite cables as well. My Xbox will occasionally boot up games normally but most of the time it boots up every game with only the audio. I saw a post on a forum a while ago about how to easily fix this, but I can no longer seem to find it.

Hi I’m new here, just signed up. I’m hoping I can get my Xbox fixed. the problem is my Xbox doesn’t turn on all the way when I have my component OR composite cables plugged in, it turns on, briefly shows orange, then shuts off but when I unplug the video and turn it on the Xbox seems fine? (But no video of course) I’ve looked at the model date and it’s a 1.6b. I have a picture of the clock capacitor and to me it seems fine though I’m kinda new to this sorta thing. Can my Xbox be fixed? Is there some other issue with it? (It IS softmodded with UnleashX installed) Thank you

Hi guys, I posted this on a few xbox groups and thought i'd share it here too. I basically remove the jewel, use a dremel to make a circular hole where the jewel was and then attached a round 800 x 800 pixel (3.4") lcd. The video is provided by a small media player such as the Sumvision Cyclone +2 but i am also going to set it up with a raspberry pi zero to save space. Using the small media player means having to lose the dvd rom due to space confinements. The interface between the lcd and media player is a HDMI to MIPI pcb with 50 pin flat ribbon cable, you can find them on most china electronics websites. The video is just some boot videos i found and stitched together. This media player can loop playback on start up provided the video is placed in a folder in the root of an SD card or USB stick named AUTOPLAY

Decided I would tear down my dev kit because there was a rattling noise inside of it and I wanted to see its guts. The rattling turned out to be the GPU fan, and I decided I should film its guts for everyone to see. Now if you don't have one, or don't want to open the one you've got, you can see inside, too! Pictures will come if I ever get a decent camera. If anyone has a Raptor card I can pair with it, please send me a PM. I don't actually know anything about developing games for the xbox, but I'd like to have a full kit in case I ever do start developing. I also might be willing to sell this to someone that wants to use it for its intended purpose. It's pretty worthless as a collectors item because it has no code on it, has a prominent cosmetic defect, and has been opened.

Tried it with 2 sets of component cables and had the same result. It's a 1.6 model and does this with various games, maybe 30 games total I've tried. Sometimes it doesn't do it all for 30min, then it'll flicker constantly for an entire hour. Super frustrating. https://youtu.be/wFh10gwcS6E

Out of nowhere today my 1.6b, X3, 2tb Xbox won't boot. Symptoms are: no frag, the console appears to be booting dvd drive will not eject when the button is pressed. The eject button blinks quickly and you can hear the drive spinning down but it never ejects long press of eject and power gives the pink executor logo on the panel and displays the outline of the Flashbios screen but remains blank Single press of the power button lights the Xecuter logo up red for a few seconds then blue as normal, no boot So, I originally thought the chip might have somehow died, but it absolutely cannot be. I completely disassembled the box, removed the X3 from the pinheaded, put the original IDE cable and hard drive back in, and bypassed the X3 board that interfaces with the power/eject buttons. The console appears to be booting but no audio or video (tv behaves as if it is getting no input signal). I have tried with both the OEM composite cable and the OEM component cable (breakout box) with no change. So now I'm convinced the chip is fine and something died in the console but can't find anything similar when searching. Everything on the motherboard looks fine and this console has worked fine since being modded in 2005. Any ideas?