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VCoupe376ci

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About VCoupe376ci

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  1. I wish they were a dime a dozen in the US. The only ones we typically get here are the ones that found their way over the border from Canada. The only translucent ones we find are the green Halo boxes and those aren't all that common anymore either.
  2. Dude, I don't even want to know how the cat managed to soak that much of the xbox to cover 60% of the metal shielding in piss, but the mental image was pretty funny. As far as what to do, this suggestion will help with the xbox as well as anything else the cat has urinated on. My last cat started peeing outside of her litter box in her old age once her bad hips made it difficult to climb in and squat. For your use, I would remove the motherboard and shielding from the case, wipe down the shielding and case with distilled vinegar diluted with water, use a scotch bright pad (rough green side of most kitchen sponges) to get the surface rust off the metal, and wipe the shielding and case down with rubbing alcohol before reassembly. Being that there is no way the cat only pissed on the xbox, here are some suggestions from someone who has been through life with a cat with bad bathroom habits. On tile or hard surfaces, a mixture of distilled vinegar and water will neutralize the ammonia smell, baking soda will help absorb it from the surface, and hydrogen peroxide is a good disinfectant to let sit for a few minutes then wipe down. This will also work on white carpet or fabric, however use on any colored carpet I would highly recommend trying the peroxide on an area that is out of sight to make sure it won't whiten the material before using it anywhere that is out in the open. I suggest that because hydrogen peroxide can remove color from fabrics the same as bleach. Speaking of it, you may also be tempted to use bleach since it is great for cleaning and disinfecting, well, just about everything that isn't a colored garment. Don't ever use bleach to clean up cat pee as cat pee is high in urea that turns into ammonia. Read below for why along with a few very important things. WARNING: NEVER MIX VINEGAR AND HYDROGEN PEROXIDE TOGETHER AS IT BECOMES A CORROSIVE ACID THAT IS DANGEROUS TO BREATHE AND WILL IRRITATE SKIN. This is in higher concentrations, but the only safe way is to use them is in succession but avoid mixing them together entirely. NEVER MIX BLEACH AND AMMONIA (CAT PEE) AS IT BECOMES CHLORINE GAS WHICH IS HIGHLY TOXIC TO BREATHE EVEN IN SMALL CONCENTRATIONS. Trust me, I fucked up and found that out the first time the cat made a mess outside the litter box. Fortunately I was lucky and hadn't poured much before realizing the mistake when there was a pungent chemical smell and my eyes and nose started burning making me clear the room until I was able to ventilate everything out. In lower concentrations it can irritate the hell out of your eyes, nose, and throat and at higher concentrations it can send you to the hospital/kill you. Seriously dangerous shit. I know we are on an xbox forum and that is way off topic, but many people don't know how dangerous it can be to mix basic shit that's under the kitchen sink or use certain cleaners on certain messes and if I was going to suggest using stuff that can make harmful compounds if mixed together it would have been irresponsible of me not to mention the dangers. Hope all that helps.....
  3. Never even seen that stuff before but it should do the trick without anything being visible. Thank you!
  4. Lol.....I know and I was really hoping for a different answer than that. All 3 boards are set in the dim position (where the white mark is covered) and the picture below is the result. The controller ports are fine but the LEDs on the front button are insanely bright. The setting in XBMC when set to "OFF" dims it to a reasonable level, but the moment I start a game it goes right back to the original brightness as you would expect since the dash is no longer in control. If there is no way to control it through software or BIOS, I'm thinking about removing the front panel and using electric tape to cover the inside so that only the ring around the button allows light through. I have a feeling that may look like crap at most or drive my OCD nuts at the least. https://imgur.com/rEz1lsw
  5. I wasn't sure where to put this, but here goes. I installed a XeniumICE massive bundle by Nemesis recently in a Halo blue console and a skeleton black (transparent gray). Everything is connected including the wires for the dim function on the controller ports. It looks absolutely awesome, but because the console is transparent the front panel LED's are brutally bright in a dimly lit or dark room. So bright that they distract from the TV while playing. This wouldn't be an issue if I was using a solid color console as the LEDs aren't directly visible, but that isn't an option. I found the demo too dim that was included in Nemesis' Xenium Essentials which dims during boot and in XeniumOS, and I found the setting in XBMC where the "Off" setting dims them, but the moment I load a game they are back to being staring into the sun bright. I know this is because once the game is loaded, XBMC is dropped until IGR is used to exit. I have searched endlessly and cannot find an answer as to how to dim the front panel LEDs all the time. Is this even possible? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated as I'm almost at the point where I'm going to remove the front panel and put electric tape in front of the LEDs, but I know that would look like hell and would drive my OCD nuts. Thanks in advance!
  6. It is confusing why this worked when a hub was used. The only difference between a hub and a switch is a hub broadcasts all packets to all ports always and a switch will only broadcast until it locates the port with the other devices on it. Once the port the mac address of the device you are trying to communicate with known, packets intended for that device will only be forwarded to that port. If you only have two hosts on a network hub, everything will be fine. If you have 8 hosts on a hub you will see plenty of latency due to collisions where packets need to resent multiple times to reach the destination host. The host does not have any idea whether it is connected to a hub, switch, router, or directly with a crossover cable. The bottom line is short of a managed switch with some type of access control list applied, the network equipment should have no bearing on anything so long as you are sure everything on layer 1 (physical - nic, port, and cabling) is good. As someone early in the thread mentioned, I would be interested to see a Wireshark packet capture of you attempting a connection with both the failing setup and the setup that finally worked.
  7. Seems like the unicorn 1.5's are popping up everywhere recently. As far as upgrading, the chip or TSOP works as in you boot to a non Microsoft dash successfully?
  8. Holy shit. Thought you were the same dude. Sorry about that! Lol.....I'm sure you do great work too, and part numbers would be awesome when you can. Trying to find anything on those websites without knowing exactly what you are looking for and how to search it out is pure agony.
  9. Thank you for posting all that info Dave. That red board in the first shot looks like exactly what I'm looking for.
  10. Even though Ryzee119 did an incredible job with the full kit with case, my OCD just kills me having all of that on the outside of the box. I snagged a Canadian crystal box back in 2005 off of eBay and ordered an X3CE and X3CP. The absolutely staggering prices those things are going for these days and how difficult they are to find has me not wanting to cut or modify any part of it as it is in pristine shape. I'm also not finding any "parts only" consoles that are at the right price point now either to source the controller ports from. I have a bunch of perf board from project kits I have from when I was learning to solder that would work perfect, just have no idea what kind of male and female plugs the controller ports use at the motherboard. I'm sure mouser or digikey has them, just having a hopeless time trying to find them there. Do you happen to have any idea what they are? Thank you much for all the help and unrelated, but thank you again for the OpenXenium kits! Your work on those kits I bought may as well have been done and sold by TeamXodus directly.
  11. So I've been putting a lot of thought into internalizing the OGX360. Using a 2.5" drive would easily make enough room for everything in the hard drive caddy. My question is regarding the necessary usb wiring. Another post that mentioned the X3CP and that got me thinking. The Xecuter CP came with a board that had a header that plugged into the motherboard controller ports and split out into the two female type A ports. Would something like this be easy to reproduce to make it a plug and play solution as opposed to cutting and soldering? The board din't seem to have any components on it and simply split the ports and converted them to female type A connectors.
  12. I've used PiPROM to read and write from two different 1.6 motherboards with no issue. ArduinoProm should yield similar results.How are you attaching the wires to the 3 pins on the LPC?
  13. If your soldering skills are lacking, I would highly recommend installing the Alladin in the 1.0 box using the surface mount method as that eliminates the need to remove the solder from the LPC. EDIT: I see you already got it installed. Disregard.
  14. Thank you for taking the time to check that out. Greatly appreciated!

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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