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I'm trying to FTP a GBA romset to my Xbox but over half of the files wont transfer with Filezilla, I get the error message saying the file names are too long. Would I be able to burn the rom files to a DVD disc and transfer them to the console that way, or is there another solution outside of manually shortening 1000+ file names?

Hi all! I lost my original modded XBox in a divorce. By then, I had a 360 and PS3, so I just dealt with it. Nostalgia has a hold on me and miss a lot of the games that I enjoyed so much in those early days. I have a Xenium Ice and have a very nice used Xbox to mod. Looking forward to meeting like-minded people. I'm sure I'll have questions as it's been a long time.

Hi folks, I'm after some kind of wireless pad adapter for the original Xbox. Ideally for two or more pads. Hoping for a UK seller due to the inordinate cost of shipping right now, but if you know a cheap way of shipping internationally to the UK (reasonably fast, so not including months-long SAL shipping) then I'd be happy with that too. Cheers, and happy holidays!

Hello ! I have a bought a xbox with Xbmc4gamers installed, and i have a problem with fanarts and posters. When I press Up on the Xbox games carousel to access the dash customisation menu popup. I have only 2 choices about the views ...like something is locked. Impossible to access to the options of the view options. when i clic on the eye, nothing happen. Like something is locked. Also when i go to the settings page, i have the impression that something is missing What do you think ?

Hey y’all, so I want to make a game on the original Xbox but here’s the problem, Idk what to do for programing Original Xbox code so can you help me please!

Hi i have a Xbox 1.0 with a corrupt bios and i discovered that the TSOP mod wasn’t done before i flashed it and ended up corrupting the bios. I tried the 3 wire trick and that didn’t work and can’t seem to find any bios reflash settings on the Open Xenium mod chip. So that really only leaves me with flashing a new chip and soldering it in. Is that the only option i have?

I am disappointed with the fan mods for the Original Xbox. I tried a 60mm Noctua Fan and then an 80MM Noctua, but no matter what i do. I cannot increase the speed of the fan. The fan just stays at the same speed settings even during gameplay. And was wondering if i can increase the speed of the Noctua since they are better,quieter fans capable of pushing out more air. I tried increasing the speed through the settings and through the config settings. But it still doesn’t make a difference. My Xbox has an Open Xenium modchip with Unleash X. Did i miss something? Do i need a special adapter?

I got a 1.6 Xbox off ebay today. Still works (minus the dvd drive, but I got several spare dvd drives), but the case is absolutely fucked in and out. After taking the controller ports out, I can't even put them back in - all but one of the posts for screws that hold the controller ports in are broken! I can only hold controller port 4 in with the intact post, all the other posts have big chunks broken off. Is there anything I could rig up to hold the rest of the controller ports down, or bolt it down, or should I just try to find an intact 1.6 case?

Listing of materials tested: OSSC V1.6 Chimeric HDMI Konig component Full RGB AV+optical Composite original Pound (2020) Mcable gaming Mclassic Monster component x400 Monster component x200 Variety of wall chargers and HDMI cables All the combinations and configurations had tested. Tested with 4 TV and two Xbox : V 1.6 no modded, V1.0 XBMC ( when it was possible, but no one did consequential differences ) Winner! Xbox+Chimeric+Mclassic (green led (alimented wall)) +Mcable gaming (alimented wall). Explanation The monster component x400 was a little better than konig component, and the monster x200 was like composite because the three plugs are video x1 and stereo x2. Not three RGB like I had thinking. Next, I tested all settings of the OSSC expecting upgrade my video with a HDMI solution. The picture was worst than the monster. With the good material, perhaps it's possible. But the OSSC loose always a part of the signal, event it is alimented. The pound (with mini usb port) was very poor. Yes, it's very better than composite but: Green filter. Not very sharp etc. But it's wasn't a problem because I had bet all on the Chimeric. Finaly, I recived the chimeric, and horror, the monster component smashes far more once again , with is colors very realistic and the picture very compatible with the signal source. I pluged the Mcable and the Mclassic, but this changed nothing. I thinking pass all my life with monster x400. There was some additionnal issues like horizontal lines "flapping" or noise in the textures. After to have expected an issus of fabrication, I Shipped an message to Chimeric system. Before to receive a response, I had set up the stuff again, and this is it! It work fine. Mclassic was alimented in the pc port, but we need to put it in the wall. We need to find the perfect Tv setting too because the signal is different of any sources. So the best mode need to be (desatured with wider spectrum. All spectrum of light and colors). Now it is better than the monster component. And better than the chimeric only. The stuff do all that it must to do. But, after that, I upgraded the output video another time with an astuce. I bought some different wall charger more powerful and the video become consequently much higher. Now with the good wall charger. It's a masterpiece. How setting this Winning combination. Xbox dashboard- Audio : Use Stereo if you have 2 speakers (or stereo+DTS). Souround + dolby for 5 speakers. Mclassic: Mode green. Alimented by a wall charger 5v- 1.8 A. Little bit hight or less. Mcable Gaming: Alimented by a wall charger 5v -2.4 A Tv(Flat): Here my setting for exemple : Contraste 100, Brillance 63, Couleur 50, Netteté 100, image-ia EF, cats HF, reduc HF If the TV has more pixels than the video source, zoomed in will not do appear new details in the pictures, but increase the sharpenes and clarity of theirs . See picture 1-2. A higher format TV will provide more sharpeness and natural with this set up. But it's the inverse result with a cheap ultra-HD tv. Picture 3-4. The winnig TV was : 1080p Panasonic TC-L32U3. Second place : Panasonic TC-L32X5. The two other TV ultra Hd (were very bad) : LG 47LN5750-UH and SAMSUNG UN50TU7000F The V1.6 xbox, with Panasonic tv and Chimeric, added vertical shadow lines with halo 2 and halo 1 on the sky and on the pale background textures. But nothing else. It run perfectly since 2004. The V1.0 XBOX XBMC added horizontal artefacts with all the games and emulators. But don't has the precedent problem with the shadow lines. His cd drive works poorly. The second best set up was : Pound alimented wall (with the same settings and stuff) . Only switch the chimeric by the Pound. For exemple, the set up with Chimeric seem that. The monster component x400 do the best picture and sound for easy and low budget. And the colors are more natural than the Pound. Konig: AV component RGB+optical in one. Show details clear. Dont't blur. But did a video quality inferior than Monster x400. The V1.6 OSSC : With all the settings, in x1 and x2 too, and with two TV, did the signal and the colors loose their intensity. The picture was pale and bleach. And in X1, there was no global difference compared good component (except the previews problems). In x2, the game was pixelised like 2D 1987 games, without degrad. He was made for keep the squarred pixels of old console. He was not made for the Xbox or consoles 480p or more. Audio problems : Not make to transfer the best audio possible because he can not out put the audio by HDMI. To plug somewhere, it need an extra connector because the input is a jack 1/8. and that cause a losing of signal. He is not do for the Xbox or console 480p or more. Good Generique HDMI cable: Make the stone texture more natural than the mcable gaming, but was less good for the shiny-lustred surfaces and did the picture more pixelised. The mcable gaming did the surfaces that was clear or polish (like water, electricity, and metal) more realistic and upgraded. Halo2 has textures 3d-like based on the details of mapping. So, when I added extra signal boost with the wall chargers, and used the mcable gaming, it was like if new textures was appears. Chimeric: Added red filter with the TC-L32U3 TV, and perhaps very little with the samsung TV . He did thin shaded lines in the bleach textures of Halo2 with the V1.6 xbox. Pound: Added green filter impossible to remove completly. Plus has the same issu than the chimeric (horizontal shaded lines) but this lines were only with halo 2 on the panasonic TC-L32U3 and the xbox V1.6) Mclassic : Works with all. TV Cartoon too. Need wall charger of 1.8 A (approximately). The two modes don't affect the defenition. Only the resolution. Audio Souround 5.1=5 speakers . Stereo=two speakers. That mean that dolby souround on XBOX is useless if you don't have the stuff. Note that the sound was really better with a good component than with the composite. But, I noticed no audio differences between monster and this winning set up. My external stereo speakers cleared the sound compared to my internal tv speakers. If you want speakers, you need receiveur Yamaha. Speakers only don't work. If you want for gaming, select the speakers with a natural sound, and did for classic-JAZZ musics. Games need hight frequency sound ( metalic, robots, cars crash, bullet impacts, shield, bird cry, wind, radio, snap-crunch). And take speakers that have not box shape, to have realistic sound. I am using a Yamaha receiver R-s300 with two small Paradigm that have a rounded plastic shape. Finaly, the https://makemhz.com/ seems to be better than the chimeric. So I will change the chimeric for it and keep all the settings and materials in this set up. Thanks SS_Dave for help.

hey, im a bit of a newb when it comes to og xbox, but i just bought one for the first time off of ebay. it works great, but i know its a big deal to remove the clock capacitor. it looks like it may have been opened before but i dont have a torx screwdriver to open it up to check. im going to my uncle's on saturday so he can open it up and see. is it fine if i play it with the possibility the clock cap hasnt been removed? it works great in every other regard.

Having started with a soft mod, then TSPOP and finally installing an open xenium with the help of this great community I've decided to go to the next level. I've received the RAM below in the post today and just checking if this will be okay to use for upgrading to 128mb on one of my experement xbox's? I've also read somewhere that you can install one chip at a time and test it through the the one of the BIOS's that is specially made for this. Then I can continue to add more after each successful chip install!!!

i have recently been playing xmen: legends on my hard modded xbox. this is the 1st time i have done this. i have played this game through many times and i have noticed a couple glitches that i have never seen before. this is the first time i have ever played it from the hdd on a hard modded xbox. this is also the 1st time i have ever played it through on a v1.4 xbox. most of the times in the past were on my v1.6 and once on a v1.0. both used the disc. so i'm not certain if it is that i am playing it for the 1st time from the hdd or that i'm playing from a v1.4 xbox for the 1st time. thoughts?

this happened when I just open the disc tray from the Xbox to remove the disc to provide sound for the Xbox. I did this because it was taking too long to load up again. Here's the vid: (Start at 21:00 to save time)

OG Xboxers assemble! Come on guys, how has no one discovered what this Easter egg is? It's just a combination of button presses. Additional info found on Reddit: "That thread points out a section of the Xbox kernel's source code (which contains the startup animation code) which has checks to see if certain controller buttons are being pressed and then it conditionally fires functions to alter how the startup animation looks and behaves. The code has references to changing things like the presence of fog, shadows, the "blob" throbbing effect, and camera placement. There's references to "pause" and "camera under control", which makes me think you may be able to pause the bootup animation and then move the camera around the scene using the controller. The boot animation (and bootup sound) is rendered in real time in 3D and is not a pre-rendered video, which makes this all possible in theory. The presence of this code in the stock kernel indicates that it might somehow be able to be triggered by a user on a stock Xbox, if triggered correctly. Currently, simply pressing buttons during the bootup sequence doesn't seem to have any effect. There might be some missing component to trigger all this. Keep in mind, this is all speculation. Seamus could be referencing something else entirely for all we know. I also don't know for certain that the code in reference made its way into the final shipped kernel. It could have also been only present in certain versions hypothetically. EDIT: the code that handles processing button inputs is not active in retail versions of the kernel from what I can tell. There's a special flag that is basically used to indicate whether or not the build is being used for testing. If this "final build" flag is turned on, inputs aren't processed. Seeing as how you can only do this on non-final development builds, I don't think this is the easter egg he's talking about. I'd still be curious to play around with it though. It looks like a very simple thing to enable so I'm surprised there isn't a version out there currently that has this feature enabled, especially hacked BIOSes. It looks like this is a rather trivial flag to set during compilation."

My OG Xbox started to Frag after a recap using the Console 5 kits. The PSU has been successfully recapped, mod chip and the extra ram chips work as i did that before the recap, clock cap area is fine, i removed that cap quite a while ago and cleaned the area with isopropyl alcohol. Every cap is in the right place and in the right orientation. But i did install C3B1 near the AV port, the 100uf cap the wrong away around the first time. I fixed that mistake, powered it on again but i get a Frag. What could be the problem? I reflowed the solder many times, and can’t find shorts either. Images: https://imgur.com/gallery/WIgbUQI

Hi can you bypass the DVD, I keep getting error 12. I have a DVD which is causing system to not boot. I swapped a DVD with my only working one and I was able to softmod. Can i use the faulty drive for the check.

I've been trying to repair my Xbox this week after accidentally blowing the 110V PSU on 220V . I've got to make it work with a PC 200W ATX PSU yesterday, but this morning, it started to FRAG. I noted that the 3.3V line has gone down to about 2.85V when the PSU is connected to the motherboard and the PSU turn off after a minute or so. I'm pretty sure that there is a short somewhere in the 3.3V line. I noticed that the Nvidia MCXP3 chip is getting very hot when the PSU is connected, I want to know if this is common, because if not, I suspect that the short maybe inside the chip, which will mean that it is dead

HELLO, Hey guys and gals. I have been a OG xbox owner since I kicked my PS2 to the side for real online gaming way back when. I never was much of a collector, just a gamer. As time has gone on I am now more of a collector and less of a gamer due to life and work always consuming the free time. Since I only ever owned a standard black console I have since started collecting for the now aging system, now I have a total of 12 OG xboxes. CIB JAP dead or alive system, a crystal clear system and a ton of the black ones to include an original Trusty mod console with an Xecuter 3 chip and the lovely front panel with screen and bank selection. I've also managed to snag a freshly built N64 Freak system direct from the source to round out the collection. What brings me here? Well all of these stock black consoles. I repair consoles and install mods for fun, started a small business to try and support my desire to tinker. I've done PC-Engine LT, Super CD-ROM, TurboGrafx, Turbo CD, Vectrex, Atari, etc rebuilds. HDMI mods for NES, Dreamcast, N64, OG Xbox, Saturn to name a few. Rebuild laseractives and many IPS screens to many handhelds, gameboys to lynx to wonder swans... At this point I've done most of the hardware stuff and I want and need to deep dive the software side to gain a better understanding. I've recapped, installed HDMI in most and added mod chips to most of the remaining black consoles and I want to upgrade the drives and make these things one stop shopping for gaming so I am here to learn. So if I can help out in any way let me know, talk collecting or share war stories I am all in. Cheers, Joe

I was looking at the typical Aladdin XT 2 Plus modchips that are still available/being produced for the Xbox a while ago, and I thought to myself that the wiring to permanently ground the BT pad seemed a little inelegant. I took a quick look at the traces on the PCB and lo and behold, they trace back to adjacent pins on the Lattice CPLD chip! Going forward should I ever need to install another XT 2 Plus, I'll forego the wire and just bridge those two pins.

Hello! After months of focusing primarily on the Nintendo Wii, the Electron Shepherd team has just released a new product that we are thrilled to share: the Xbox2HDMI module! This tiny, power-packed module takes in the Component video and digital audio output from the Original Xbox and outputs an HDMI signal with embedded Dolby Digital Surround Sound (if that audio setting is enabled in your Xbox’s settings). This module utilizes a fully custom PCB with a higher quality, next generation IC compared to what is typically used on the widely available Wii2HDMI and VGA2HDMI modules that are readily available online. If you are not happy with those modules, then you will absolutely be happy with these. This module efficiently supports the 480i, 720p, and 1080i resolutions that are default to the original Xbox. These units can be bought with ease on our store located here: https://electron-shepherd.com/xbox2hdmi/ Please let use know if you have any questions about this or any other product we currently offer! - Shane from Electron Shepherd LLC https://twitter.com/ElectronShep

Hello All, I have an original xbox rev 1.3 and already installed an Executer 2.6CE modchip. I'm ready to order an upgraded 2TB or 3TB hard drive. I have been out of the scene for a long time and sure could use recommendations... Is this Seagate Barracuda the best choice? Or recommend something else that will be easiest? https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-BarraCuda-Internal-Drive-3-5-Inch/dp/B07H2RR55Q/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=st2000dm008&qid=1626155702&sr=8-3 Is there a better IDA to SATA interface than this one? https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Drive-Optical-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00EOJNGC2/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=IDE+to+SATA&qid=1626155999&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExMDIwM1JXUlg1VFg2JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDMwMzQ5MkFHQjZHTUxTRjQ0QSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODk1Mjg4WVlMSk41WFlLTTk4JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== And this 80-pin cable ok? Any better one? https://www.amazon.com/s?k=40-Pin+80-Wire&i=electronics&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 Thank you! Robert

hello my friends i have an xbox 1.0 and i want to install modchip for what is best one for it and also mine works with 100.125 ac and i want to change it to 200.245 ac because iam living in kuwait how i can change that and can i change hetsink fan and use thermal grizzly thermal paste

Is this possible? Preliminary searches on google show me a few things but I can't be sure so rather than searching high and low I though i'd ask you lot This is something I found btw, i've not even downloaded it yet so don't know if it contains a virus ( link to site, Sites clean ) https://www.h4ck.se/how-to-overclock-your-original-xbox-in-2019/

I recently got an Xbox v 1.1 and it worked for about a week. After cleaning it up and testing a few points to make sure things like caps didn't need replacing my psu stopped giving power to all the lines except the purple 3.3v line. It randomly let's me power it on and one of two things happen: 1.) The green light powers on for a second or two and then it shuts off. 2.) It flashes orange for about 2-5 seconds before powering off. It isn't consistent and only lets me power it on randomly. Any pointers on where to start looking on the psu before I start taking things apart further? Or is it possible it could be due to a fault on the main board that you guys know a little about?

It was a long time ago that I played this game (when I was around 7) so sorry if I can't recall the details or much of the information I'm about to give. Basically there's this 3rd person shooter for the OG Xbox that is very similar to Conker: live and reloaded or Fur Fighters but it's a bit more brighter and colorful. The characters were chibi-like and the gameplay was a team deathmatch and you could play in various maps; the couple I can remember were in a bathroom and the players were very small, another one was in like a circus but for this one I'm not very sure. Thanks for helping and I'm looking forward to the responses.