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Hi, have a Xbox Classic 1.4 chip FOCUS fitted with Aladdin XT Plus2 Cerbios 2.4.2 FRAG when power on Falshing Green Orange NO video output on screen. I replaced 3 capacitors of 3300uF 6.3v the ones near the power connector were swollen, and put new thermal paste, and washing mainboard. How to fix?
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I have a 1.4 here that won't output a signal. I've tried composite, component cables. I replaced the av port with a different one. Still nothing. When I pull the cable out of the xbox it acknowledges it by flashing. I have a Black Ice flashed with Cerbios. Any ideas on something else I could check?
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My HD AV Pack is no longer outputting a working optical audio signal. The receiver acts as if nothing is connected. The AV box is producing the red light but it is noticeably dimmer when compared to my TV's optical output. I tried two optical cables and two XBoxes. Inside the HD AV pack, the optical audio section is on a mini PCB and has a tantalum cap, as shown in the photo. Could this cap be going bad and causing the LED to dim?
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Xbox2HDMI - Seamless HDMI Output for the Original Xbox!
electron-shepherd posted a topic in For Sale
Hello! After months of focusing primarily on the Nintendo Wii, the Electron Shepherd team has just released a new product that we are thrilled to share: the Xbox2HDMI module! This tiny, power-packed module takes in the Component video and digital audio output from the Original Xbox and outputs an HDMI signal with embedded Dolby Digital Surround Sound (if that audio setting is enabled in your Xbox’s settings). This module utilizes a fully custom PCB with a higher quality, next generation IC compared to what is typically used on the widely available Wii2HDMI and VGA2HDMI modules that are readily available online. If you are not happy with those modules, then you will absolutely be happy with these. This module efficiently supports the 480i, 720p, and 1080i resolutions that are default to the original Xbox. These units can be bought with ease on our store located here: https://electron-shepherd.com/xbox2hdmi/ Please let use know if you have any questions about this or any other product we currently offer! - Shane from Electron Shepherd LLC https://twitter.com/ElectronShep -
I would like to dedicate one of my xboxes to 8 and 16-bit emulation. I own a Sony 2030 PVM that is 240p/480i only. My understanding is that the xbox can output a component signal over SCART which doesn't help me as the monitor doesn't support component. Can a modded xbox be configured to output RGB-S over SCART? If so, how?
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Works great. Might start making them standard. Sounds a HELL of a lot better than the analog audio!
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My v1.1 xbox has distortion in its video. It looks like 10 vertical rows of pixels all horizontally shift to the left by about 5 pixels. It's difficult to catch on camera but I've attached 2 photos. In one photo, you can see the pixel shift right in the middle of the letter D on the left hand side of the screen. In the other photo, you can see the same distortion right in between E and F on the left hand side of the screen. It doesn't look as dramatic in these photos as it really is. These vertical distortions appear all over the screen with about 5 or 6 happening at any given time. I replaced the five 1500uF capacitors in my xbox, and that did not help it. This distortion happens when I use the official HD component video adapter. It also happens when I use the Chimeric systems HDMI adapter. It seems like the distortion is not caused by external cables. I tried cleaning the video connector contacts with isopropyl alcohol. Does anyone know how I can fix this or further troubleshoot the issue?
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I just resurrected a "for parts" xbox from ebay, and after replacing cpu caps, tsop flash etc, I was able to get it working. The issue I am having though is that the only cable that will work on it is my component cable. No other cable will work. I have tried both a third party AV cable and an original one, both do the same thing. I also have a xhox to hdmi dongle which will also not display any output on this xbox. Has anyone got any idea what is going on here?
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Hello friends I have bought a couple of faulty controllers off ebay to repair. The first one I succesfully replaced the sticks with XBOX360 ones, added pots and successfully calibrated precisely to the centre the sticks using XBCD from https://www.s-config.com/xbcd-original-xbox-controllers-win10/ The second controller when testing there is no "+" on the left stick (as attached). I've replaced the sticks, but its still the same. The controller had been opened so it could be a botched upgrade. The strange thing is I have searched Google for hours and I cannot find a single post with any type of controller with this issue! The traces look OK except a couple of pads on the 3 legged pot control. When soldering a new stick I quickly checked the traces to the soldered legs and I get continuity. I will investigate this further, but normally with botched upgrades you do get a signal with the "+" usually stuck on the edge of the square. Is there anything obvious I could check first? Thanks in advance
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I've got 2 xboxes, one X3 with the inbuilt menu and one slim no-dvd xbox. I'm getting deja vu that I've had this problem before and managed to solve it. In the X3: - It powers on, I was able to get into the X3 menu by holding the white controller button, no issues. - But I wasn't able to get into my dashboard (i know it works, I used it a few months back - and I can see the game titles / menu titles on the LCD screen) - I remembered the issue was something to do with the region/video mode not matching, so I think I switched the region to PAL 480i initially directly via the X3 menu and managed to get into the dashboard. All my games etc everything is working fine, but only in 480i now. - So I go to enigmah X and switch back to NTSC thinking this would allow me to go back to 720p, no dice, now the X3 menu won't show up (again, I can see it loading correctly via the LCD screen, there's just no video out) - I tried switching to a SCART cable to try "force" PAL mode again, and I can see via OSSC's readout that i'm getting 480i but again there's no video out. What can I do here? I vaguely recall that using a composite cable somehow hardware-forced it back to default 480i and fixed this issue. The slim: - Powers on, loads up, works fine, OSSC says 720p out, can't see anything obviously wrong with it - The picture is blurry. Literally just very blurry. I've tried switching back and forth between 480/720p and it's still extremely blurry, I really can't explain why. Last time I used it the picture was crystal clear. Please help you guys!
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I'm very new to the modding scene. I'm using pretty cheap Component cables but everything looks and sounds fine in 480i. I've tried using MS dash to enable the settings but it seems to have no effect. It stays ON in MS even after reboot but there's no change. Once I enable any of the HD settings in UnleashX and reboot, I hear everything but no video outputs. I've tried each one 1 at a time and just 2 and all 3. Same result, no video output. For info, It's a v1.6 with an Aladdin XT, I Added 2Tb HDD. Unlocked. And it's NTSC. Am I missing something simple or could this be bad cables or motherboard issue? Every guide I've seen makes it look so simple. When I plug in my composite cable it will automatically reboot and I don't have the option to enable or disable HD. I can't set it to default with composite cables. The only way I can undo it is by listening the audio and going through the menu blind and changing it back with my component cable. Which isn't that difficult. I can't find this specific issue here so if it exists I'd be happy to read the thread. Thank you.
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I have a wierd issue with one of my Xbox consoles. It's a 1.6 softmod, I purchased it pre-modded and it came with 'Slayer's custom' softmod installed. Recently I've been having an issue with a couple of PAL games running too fast in NTSC mode, Crash Bandicoot: The Wrath of Cortex and Timesplitters 2. I've never has this problem with these games before, so I tried changing the video from NTSC 480p to PAL 480i but the console seems to be stuck in 480p mode, even though in video settings it's unticked. If I plug in an RGB SCART cable this does force the console to output at 480i and the games no longer run fast, but when I plug my component cable back in the console remains stuck in 480p. Does anyone know what might be causing this? I'm wondering if I should reinstall the soft mod, I have Rocky5 softmod disc burned but i'm not sure if this would mess things up as a different softmod is already installed?
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Listing of materials tested: OSSC V1.6 Chimeric HDMI Konig component Full RGB AV+optical Composite original Pound (2020) Mcable gaming Mclassic Monster component x400 Monster component x200 Variety of wall chargers and HDMI cables All the combinations and configurations had tested. Tested with 4 TV and two Xbox : V 1.6 no modded, V1.0 XBMC ( when it was possible, but no one did consequential differences ) Winner! Xbox+Chimeric+Mclassic (green led (alimented wall)) +Mcable gaming (alimented wall). Explanation The monster component x400 was a little better than konig component, and the monster x200 was like composite because the three plugs are video x1 and stereo x2. Not three RGB like I had thinking. Next, I tested all settings of the OSSC expecting upgrade my video with a HDMI solution. The picture was worst than the monster. With the good material, perhaps it's possible. But the OSSC loose always a part of the signal, event it is alimented. The pound (with mini usb port) was very poor. Yes, it's very better than composite but: Green filter. Not very sharp etc. But it's wasn't a problem because I had bet all on the Chimeric. Finaly, I recived the chimeric, and horror, the monster component smashes far more once again , with is colors very realistic and the picture very compatible with the signal source. I pluged the Mcable and the Mclassic, but this changed nothing. I thinking pass all my life with monster x400. There was some additionnal issues like horizontal lines "flapping" or noise in the textures. After to have expected an issus of fabrication, I Shipped an message to Chimeric system. Before to receive a response, I had set up the stuff again, and this is it! It work fine. Mclassic was alimented in the pc port, but we need to put it in the wall. We need to find the perfect Tv setting too because the signal is different of any sources. So the best mode need to be (desatured with wider spectrum. All spectrum of light and colors). Now it is better than the monster component. And better than the chimeric only. The stuff do all that it must to do. But, after that, I upgraded the output video another time with an astuce. I bought some different wall charger more powerful and the video become consequently much higher. Now with the good wall charger. It's a masterpiece. How setting this Winning combination. Xbox dashboard- Audio : Use Stereo if you have 2 speakers (or stereo+DTS). Souround + dolby for 5 speakers. Mclassic: Mode green. Alimented by a wall charger 5v- 1.8 A. Little bit hight or less. Mcable Gaming: Alimented by a wall charger 5v -2.4 A Tv(Flat): Here my setting for exemple : Contraste 100, Brillance 63, Couleur 50, Netteté 100, image-ia EF, cats HF, reduc HF If the TV has more pixels than the video source, zoomed in will not do appear new details in the pictures, but increase the sharpenes and clarity of theirs . See picture 1-2. A higher format TV will provide more sharpeness and natural with this set up. But it's the inverse result with a cheap ultra-HD tv. Picture 3-4. The winnig TV was : 1080p Panasonic TC-L32U3. Second place : Panasonic TC-L32X5. The two other TV ultra Hd (were very bad) : LG 47LN5750-UH and SAMSUNG UN50TU7000F The V1.6 xbox, with Panasonic tv and Chimeric, added vertical shadow lines with halo 2 and halo 1 on the sky and on the pale background textures. But nothing else. It run perfectly since 2004. The V1.0 XBOX XBMC added horizontal artefacts with all the games and emulators. But don't has the precedent problem with the shadow lines. His cd drive works poorly. The second best set up was : Pound alimented wall (with the same settings and stuff) . Only switch the chimeric by the Pound. For exemple, the set up with Chimeric seem that. The monster component x400 do the best picture and sound for easy and low budget. And the colors are more natural than the Pound. Konig: AV component RGB+optical in one. Show details clear. Dont't blur. But did a video quality inferior than Monster x400. The V1.6 OSSC : With all the settings, in x1 and x2 too, and with two TV, did the signal and the colors loose their intensity. The picture was pale and bleach. And in X1, there was no global difference compared good component (except the previews problems). In x2, the game was pixelised like 2D 1987 games, without degrad. He was made for keep the squarred pixels of old console. He was not made for the Xbox or consoles 480p or more. Audio problems : Not make to transfer the best audio possible because he can not out put the audio by HDMI. To plug somewhere, it need an extra connector because the input is a jack 1/8. and that cause a losing of signal. He is not do for the Xbox or console 480p or more. Good Generique HDMI cable: Make the stone texture more natural than the mcable gaming, but was less good for the shiny-lustred surfaces and did the picture more pixelised. The mcable gaming did the surfaces that was clear or polish (like water, electricity, and metal) more realistic and upgraded. Halo2 has textures 3d-like based on the details of mapping. So, when I added extra signal boost with the wall chargers, and used the mcable gaming, it was like if new textures was appears. Chimeric: Added red filter with the TC-L32U3 TV, and perhaps very little with the samsung TV . He did thin shaded lines in the bleach textures of Halo2 with the V1.6 xbox. Pound: Added green filter impossible to remove completly. Plus has the same issu than the chimeric (horizontal shaded lines) but this lines were only with halo 2 on the panasonic TC-L32U3 and the xbox V1.6) Mclassic : Works with all. TV Cartoon too. Need wall charger of 1.8 A (approximately). The two modes don't affect the defenition. Only the resolution. Audio Souround 5.1=5 speakers . Stereo=two speakers. That mean that dolby souround on XBOX is useless if you don't have the stuff. Note that the sound was really better with a good component than with the composite. But, I noticed no audio differences between monster and this winning set up. My external stereo speakers cleared the sound compared to my internal tv speakers. If you want speakers, you need receiveur Yamaha. Speakers only don't work. If you want for gaming, select the speakers with a natural sound, and did for classic-JAZZ musics. Games need hight frequency sound ( metalic, robots, cars crash, bullet impacts, shield, bird cry, wind, radio, snap-crunch). And take speakers that have not box shape, to have realistic sound. I am using a Yamaha receiver R-s300 with two small Paradigm that have a rounded plastic shape. Finaly, the https://makemhz.com/ seems to be better than the chimeric. So I will change the chimeric for it and keep all the settings and materials in this set up. Thanks SS_Dave for help.
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hey all, Building a cocktail arcade cabinet, which requires the display to be mounted vertically instead of the typical horizontal orientation. The TV display we are using doesn't have the ability to do it within its menu. I've seen an option to do so on non Xbox arcade cabinets (and it actually flipped 180degrees for 2 player games as well) , i was wondering if anyone knew how to do it with a modded xbox, either natively within UnleashX or XBMC-emustation or XBMC4Gamers....or another way. CoinOps has limited capability to do so with certain games, but it also inverts controls when doing so. Any help or guidance you have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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Hi Guys. I recently picked up a Halo Edition Original Xbox that has not been modded. It is completely stock. It powers on and has a solid green light around the eject button, however the drive will not eject and it does not output video or audio. I have tried both component cables as well as composite cables that work with another Xbox. I have also searched the web for help but have not come up with anything. Do you guys have any ideas as to what could be wrong? Could I possibly have bad video and audio output chips? Thank you in advance for any help or suggestions you might have.
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I have the big green monster cable microsoft but i'm searching for the missing cable of the optical output. ( Do not see light trought the connection of the optical, so it is broken ?) I am searching for the official microsoft component + optical ( to compare) if you have too, but they are easy to find on ebay.
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Hey, everyone, I was hoping some of you might have an idea of what might be wrong. I'll start off with it's a tsoped xbox running unleash X and has been running strong for the past year or so since I did that mod. Recently I took it out and decided I wanted to play it again and it booted up just fine did it's normal stuff the dashboard loaded and then after playing one game went to a black screen. Since then the system will not output a signal at all. No error lights are displayed on the front of the console and I've tried booting with and without a disc. The hard drive sounds like it spins up and tries to access just fine. So I'm not quite sure what could have gone wrong for it to not output a video signal? Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
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Hi. I lost ability to use component cable in my one project xbox. It worked fine at first but now it only shows black at my screen. It only works now with composite cable. I have two component cables and they are fine, I tested them with my other xbox. Is there a possibility that some component in the motherboard is damaged or should I look problem at software side? I'm running unleashX with aladdin modchip on a 1.6 revision xbox.
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I have a 1.0 xbox that was working perfectly up until the sound output quit. I have tried different cables, different TVs but...nothing. I'm thinking hardware issue...does anybody have suggestions for where on the motherboard I should start looking? Thanks.
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48