jeffl

Can you share what Fatxplorer suggests as the partition table that it will create? I'm a bit confused about the specific situation you are encountering. Also make sure you have the latest v3 beta.

Do I have additional troubleshooting options?

I cleaned the board today. Dust is no more.

I found a spare v1.4 that I didn't realize I had (is now the time to admit that I have a problem?). The IC legs that Fringle pointed out are also bridged on that board. The spec near C6D4 that OGXbox Admin pointed out is no longer there. The suspected tombstone looks the same on the other v1.4 board. After applying new thermal paste to the CPU and GPU, the behavior is now dependent on whether the system has warmed up. 1) If cold booting, the console attempts to 3x boot before FRAGing. 2) If system has warmed up, I get flashing orange and then power off. I've attached a picture of the temperature IC at U6F1.

Seller sold as "for parts or not working". I think he just meant untested. The console booted to stock dash when I fired it up for the first time. I only let it run for 2 mins. No stress testing. Someone had been inside it though. What was done inside I do not know.

I will probably hold off on IC repair for now. I ordered CPU paste and will perform that work when it arrives.

The legs are bridged. I can't find high res pictures of a 1.4 mobo to compare to. I assume that any time IC pins are bridged that it is an anomaly but I'm very hesitant to attempt a repair. Should I proceed?

Fortunately just a solder blob that I subsequently cleaned up.

I desoldered the pin header from the LPC. Now the behavior is to attempt 3x boot prior to orange flashing, eventually powering off. Consolemods wiki indicates this is an overheating problem or a problem with the temperature sensor at U6F1. Visual inspection does not reveal anything. I will follow the wiki's advice to clean the temp IC and to replace the thermal paste on the CPU and GPU.

I appreciate all the tips. I am still really puzzled. How the poor soldering on the pin header could be causing my issue of FRAGing with no D0 grounding and no modchip is not clear to me but I will reflow nonetheless. LPC pin continuity to the "baldbouncer" test points all check out as I noted in my original post.

The previous picture was not my console. I used baldbouncer's LPC diagnostic diagram from the posting on ogxbox. Here is my console. I am aware that the soldering is terrible and that I need to improve.

Removing the chip (though leaving in the pin header) does not result in a boot to stock. Visual inspection of both sides of the mobo reveal no damage or solder blobs. Let me offer some additional info in case it is relevant. The seller of this xbox posted it as "for parts or not working". After discussing with him, he indicated that he bought the contents of a storage locker and had no interest in testing it to verify operation. I could see that the console was previously opened up although there were no signs inside of modification. No signs of a soft mod in the stock dash. While I verified operation when I first brought the console home, I don't think I verified operation after removing the clock cap. I double checked that I removed the correct cap for 1.4. I am not clear how one determines that the console is in a clock boot loop or if this would apply to me (perhaps the console was soft-modded but booted to stock dash). I'm puzzled at how I could have arrived in this situation. I'm wondering if the console had a pre-existing but intermittent issue. Can folks provide additional assistance?

I am attempting to install a modchip for the first time. I have an aladdin XT clone from Aliexpress. The xbox is 1.4. I have a wire from bottom-side D0 to the top-side D0 pad on the chip. BT on the chip is wired to ground using the quick solder connector. The HD is stock with the standard xbox dashboard. Xbox was verified functional pre-modding. The only other mod is the removal of the clock capacitor. The console performs 3x boot attempts before FRAGing and eventually powering off. I used the LPC diagnostics page to verify my soldering. All eleven pins have continuity to the points described in the "baldbouncer" diagram. The only weirdness I noticed is that baldbouncer pin 4 to test point 4 has a resistance of about 1K. The via immediately below test point 4 has a much lower resistance to pin 4. See blue arrow in attached diagram. Despite watching a lot of tutorials and reading the documentation, I can't rule out some rookie mistake. Any tips for troubleshooting this?

I am no expert on analog video signals but I can share my understanding. 240p is a hack used by early consoles to obtain a progressive signal. Rather than drawing alternating fields like 480i, consoles instructed the beam to draw every other line. This resulted in a smoother image than the flickery 480i. Ideally we'd want the Xbox to do 240p for emulation but it looks like the consensus is that even modded xboxes cannot do this.

Thanks, @prtscnand @Marty. Yes, I could do VGA out or component out with a converter. Or composite out. It looks decent on PVM 2030.