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Hi guys. I have been working on getting my first Xbox hardmodded and restored. The Xbox is a revision 1.0, modded with a Xenium chip. My main question boils down to, how do I truly identify a bad capacitor? First, I would like the explain the mistake that lead to this point. 1.) The revision 1.0 Xbox has the 12 pin PSU header. My Xbox had just been recapped, and I was testing different components. In-between tests I removed the PSU and on the next boot, I had improperly wired it. As shown in the first attached video. 2.) Resulting from this, after fixing my mistake and plugging in the PSU properly, my Xbox acted as it does in the 2nd video attached. 3.)A quick YouTube search resulted in this video. Turns out it had the exact same issue as mine, and the exact same fix worked. 4.) After watching the video, I replaced the new 2200uF capacitors with the original ones. Sure enough that fixed it, and it has no other issues. In his video, he found that the ESR still tests the capacitors as good. In my situation, I have the same result. But, in both cases, the capacitors are in fact not suitable for use. Long story short, I know the caps are bad. They were brand new caps, and I broke them as explained. Why do they still pass the ESR tester, and is there a way to truly identify a bad capacitor? I would like to reuse my old ones if possible. Thanks! VID_20241203_204236459.mp4 VID_20241203_1916391552.mp4

Hey guys, I recently turned on my OG Xbox after MANY years in storage (mostly temperature controlled storage) and I had no idea about the issues about the capacitors and so on. The DVD Drive and HDD seems to still be working fine with no issues. All of my old data was still there and I wanted to save the data to a memory card. I have learned that it is possible to save the data to a USB as well, but I think it might require a Softmod or something. The Fan still blows heat normally so it appears to be cooling the unit properly. Sadly I can't get the data from the drive at the moment. I tried to show plenty of pictures below as well. I have a few questions and concerns. Shortly after plugging in the unit I heard: -- 2 pops, but the console turned on and ran fine for a while (XB Dashboard and within a game). -- After a while my video went fuzzy\scrambled, reset and it started to FRAG during the game. (2 resets and Red\Green blinking) with no video). -- No smoke\smell or anything and I was able to open the tray to remove my disk. -- Same results after hard reset (FRAG). I did some research and learned more about the capacitor issue. I didn’t know any of this stuff before. I saw 2 busted capacitors from what I can see (those 2 pops). -- The Clock capacitor, which I eventually removed + cleaned the area (top and bottom) -- The PSU appears to have one leaking capacitor. Clock Capacitor: Battery Cap Leak - https://i.postimg.cc/jdfhZk4D/Fresh-leak.jpg Acid Corrosion - https://i.postimg.cc/BnGBycmM/Corroding-leak.jpg Battery Leak Cleaned - https://i.postimg.cc/9QtYjRSV/Cleaned.jpg Bottom of board Cleaned - https://i.postimg.cc/sfqcPR7F/Bottom-Cleaning.jpg Not knowing any better I let the clock “acid” sit there for a few days before cleaning because I was thinking about sending it in for repairs or something, but after reading more I decided to open it up and remove the Clock cap. It was pretty much corroded at this point and the leaked acid started to look horrible on my board. I cleaned it with 91% alcohol + Q-tips. For the corrosion I also scrapped some of the left over residue and kept wiping the entire area gently. The spill traveled further than I originally though. I checked the bottom of the board and saw a light cloudy color, but nothing too serious so I cleaned it up as well. Since the board was opened I decided to clean\wipe down the entire board from top and bottom. The board was in great condition, not too dirty\dusty, but since I had it opened….why not right? Power Supply Unit: PSU Cap Leak A - https://i.postimg.cc/Fs0jjkhc/PSU-Capacitor-lea-A.jpg PSU Cap Leak B - https://i.postimg.cc/447vxFMW/PSU-Capacitor-leak-B.jpg PSU Cap Leak C - https://i.postimg.cc/W1ngyRF1/PSU-Capacitor-leak-C.jpg PSU Cap Leak D - https://i.postimg.cc/8CzMQyMB/PSU-Capacitor-leak-D.jpg PSU Cap Leak E - https://i.postimg.cc/j27y3LNp/PSU-Capacitor-leak-E.jpg PSU Bottom A - https://i.postimg.cc/PfgWpQnT/PSU-Bottom-A.jpg PSU Bottom B - https://i.postimg.cc/P5h1Kfq7/PSU-Bottom-B.jpg Based on my research I have an Xbox v1.3 revision. The PSU capacitor leak looks fine on the bottom of the PSU and it appears that I have one of the “reinforced” PSUs that should not spark or cause a potential fire due the power connector\solder joint issue (constant insertion and removal of the power cable from what I’ve learned so far). Also, I did NOT wipe the PSU clean\wipe down top and bottom and honestly I didn’t want to touch it. Can someone tell me how long it takes for the PSU to drain and becomes much safer to handle? I know that PSUs (not just OG Xbox’s) can hold a charge for a very long time after being unplugged. I never touched it while cleaning the Clock capacitor leak. I let it (PSU) sit for roughly 10 days so I suppose it was safe to handle. I wasn't going to touch it, but I wanted to check the bottom of the PSU to see if there was any damage. I pretty much pulled it out and re-installed it by using the cabling and not even touching the damn thing. I have a Foxlink PSU, but I wanted to replace it with another one of the three brands. I believe they are interchangeable from what I’ve read. I noticed that the cable “color” was a bit different on the Delta, but the pinouts are the same I believe. I have the OG Xbox surge protector on the way just to be safe. Before investing into another PSU I was wondering what could be the harm in plugging in my current Foxlink with the leaking capacitor that already popped just to check and “see” if the console boots with no errors. If it boots to the Dashboard then I could turn it off and place the order for a replacement unit. Any potential issues with trying this before spending money on a PSU? Also I'd like to know an estimated amount of time that the PSU can hold a charge.

As the title says, I'm looking for suggestions of a large capacitor kit from a UK supplier. I want a nice supply to be able to fully recap 5 or 6 consoles. I have NO IDEA what i'm buying when it comes to these things and have only bought the made up packs from Ebay etc that are for one console (I would of bought from console5 but the shipping kills that ). Mouser UK seem to have a lot of kits but like I said i have no clue which set would suit... https://www.mouser.co.uk/c/passive-components/capacitors/capacitor-kits If anyone out there can point me in the right direction or suggest another supplier/kit then I am all ears and would be massively grateful

Hello I recently received a version 1.6 xbox with a failed LPC rebuild in which the previous person has knocked off capacitor C7T3 circled in blue in pic and was wondering if anyone is able to help me know what it is so I can replace it...thanks

Redherring32 (of OpenTendo fame) has been putting in some research into bypassing the need for a clock capacitor on the 1.6 revision Xbox; unlike the prior models a 1.6 will not boot without it. By removing R7P3 and R7P6 current limiting resistors which go to the positive leg of the clock cap and then connecting 3v3 standby voltage to that same leg, you can remove it entirely and still have a functioning system.

So I replaced my capacitors as suggested on my V1 motherboard due to leaking on the clock cap. Video had no problems before but now the video gets a bit intermittent/bars on the screen and the sound starts to squeal. Help me out please. Novice here so any pros would be greatly appreciated lol note I replaced the three 16V 1500 and two 10v3300 caps.

So I have a 1.6 Xbox that I softmodded with UnleashX few years ago and it's been great. Last week I was playing it just fine, got tired and turned it off for the night. Couple days later it wouldn't boot up at all, id hit the power button and it would attempt to boot for like half second then turn off. Opened it up to see 5 capacitors bulging on the bottom right of the motherboard under the CPU/GPU area. So I ordered replacement caps and installed them and now I'm getting a FRAG with no video output. I've been trying to diagnose for few days. I've swapped out the power supply with known working 1.6 PSU, I've tried swapping back to my original HDD from before the softmod all to no help. I've checked voltages at PSU connector, my issue seems to be the inductor (L2F1) isn't getting the 1.7vdc it should be getting from researching on this site. I've checked the transistor next to the L2F1 and getting 5vdc on one side and 1.7vdc on the other. I've checked the transistor (Q7C2) and getting 3.3vdc at the collector. Any help would be appreciated as I'd hate to make it a parts xbox thanks. Edit: I mightve connected a older revision PSU (1.1-1.4v) without noticing in a attempt to rule out power supply. But have since checked two different 1.6v PSU with no effect.

Time to do some capacitor replacments and have a question about ripple current.. The way I understand it generally higher ripple current capacity is better as caps will last longer.. But on digikey ripple current has 2 measurments.. Low frequency @120hz High frequency @ 100khz I am assuming these different specs would be for different use cases like basic power delivery vs power smoothing? Is that correct? I am switching to polymer caps so esr is low. Should I be focusing more on the 100khz ripple rating?

My main gaming system is a green Halo xbox I bought maybe a year ago off ebay - it was in great condition and had never been opened before I got it. When I removed the case to clean it out I found the motherboard is a 1.4 revision with a gold clock capacitor. I remember reading online this is a high quality capacitor Microsoft switched to after they realized the cheap ones were failing. Does anyone here have any more information on this? Pics attached I took today.

Hello everyone. I need information about the capacitor on the motherboard located near the ram slot. During soldering, it flew somewhere and I can't locate it. Does anyone of you have a boardview or any schematic that will help me identify this capacitor and its parameters?

After seeing lots of suggestions, usually for capacitors that aren't readily available, discontinued, or are marked "last chance to buy", I thought I'd try to put together some lists on Digikey of current/active caps for the Xbox. It might be good for people asking about caps, experiencing option paralysis, or even people who do this a lot and don't want to have to think about it. I would appreciate feedback, let me know if there's some better option or cheaper equivalent to something in one of these lists. Any dupes across revisions are the same model cap. Xbox v1.0-1.1 Capacitor Set Xbox v1.2-1.4 Capacitor Set Xbox v1.6 Capacitor Set Clock Cap (All revisions) Also, incase you're a prepper: v1.0-1.4 Capacitor Set, All Revisions Capacitor Set

Hello, I was changing out all the capacitors on the OGXbox. The Xbox is a working one. I didn't check for continuity before starting the work. After half way through, I started checking for continuity and saw that there is continuity on capacitors C7E2 and C7F1, circled in the picture. There is no continuity on the other caps, just these two. They show continuity to each other and to ground. I removed the capacitors, but the holes still show continuity, but the capacitors by themselves do not. I am a noob, so I do not know if the continuity is meant to be or not. I held the wires on there for a while to see if it will go away after filling up some caps, but nope. It also shows short to one side of all other caps as well. So, is it supposed to be or not? Please help, I do not want to ruin the board. (Ver. 1.4/1.5)

I've heard that you can replace the 5 1500 uf caps on a 1.0 and 1.1 with 3 3300 uf caps anywhere. I have been trying to fix a 3 boot fragging 1.1 with bad caps. I replaced it with the three capacitors and it still frags. When trying a modchip sometimes it fragged and sometimes it became a coma console (green light no video). Do you think this fragging is caused by the capacitors being the three 3300 uf caps? Does it still need to be the 5 1500 uf caps?

My xbox is turning on as soon as I plug it to the wall, somebody said its because of the trace corrosion, a capacitor might leaked. I checked the motherboard and found these: https://ibb.co/nfjRgNR https://ibb.co/wNM2H4d Are these corrosion due to the leaking capacitor? They are doesnt even wanna come off, I tried with toothbrush and rubbing alcohol and cotton swabs, but really hard to remove...

Curious if anyone knows the values for C4V3 for a 1.0 or 1.1 motherboard ( IIRC mine is 1.1 ). I was replacing all the electrolytics on my xbox yesterday. While trying to desolder the lead-free crap on the through holes I accidentally nudged this part off one of its pads. I guess the desoldering braid touched it or something. Its back on now but cracked and I'm worried I'll need to replace it.

Hello, i bought a used v1.0 xbox some months ago, which i've modded. but lately i've had problems with it. It manifested by some times i would turn it on and it does the 3 on/offs then christmas lights. Then all of a sudden it can work again for 5 times, next day i turn it on again, and it won't boot. Have to take out the motherboard and inspect my solderjoints, all ok, into the xbox and it might work again, if not repeat process etc. past 2 days i've used it, it's been working perfect then i noticed it just suddenly freezes and throws a high pitch sound on the speakers without me doing anything but just idling in xbmc menu somewhere. And now it won't start sucessfully at all. just christmas lights. And no occasional luck booting it up successfully either. I installed a aladdin modchip in it and have long been suspecting the solderwork there, since sometimes it boots and sometimes not. But now i'm thinking it might be the PSU that is the root of the problems. I looked at another thread and did the voltage testing on the 12v plug pin by starting the PSU and not connecting it to the motherboard. All the wires showed correct voltage except two. The blue wire (or grey as it is on the plug pin) is supposed to be 3.3v but shows 0.04v and the yellow wire which is supposed to be 12v but is showing 5.89v. I'm posting a picture of the psu and you can see 1 capacitor that is very bulged, i've marked it with red arrow. Should i swap out these caps with new ones? are they responsible for the incorrect voltage on specifically those 2 pins? Also the big caps on the motherboard is not bulged but i understand they can very well be off also, even it doesn't show to the naked eye. So basically are the problems coming from the PSU or the motherboard, Would it be enough to just swap out the 3 caps on the psu, you think? What about the big black 400V 180uF one? that can be a culprit too? Btw, when i started up the PSU with no load i can hear a sound coming from the big black 400v capacitator. it's buzzingsound with short 10milliseconds stops in between like as if electrolytic fluid is boiling and hissing in there. is that normal? With load it makes a lower clicking sound. it's prob just the hz from the powerline maybe.

I saw on reddit that they recommended a Taiyo yuden or Nichicon 1F 2.5V, but it seems these are now out of production.

Hello, Just wondering what you guys procedure is for cleaning up after leaking capacitors? I remove all the caps then clean with 99% isopropyl alcohol and a lightly scrub with a small brush... afterward a light clean with demineralized water and let dry for a few days before re capping. Is there special cleaners for this that would neutralize and clean better? Thanks

Let me share some context: The past year, I read about the clock capacitor, so I decided to open my xbox to check the clock capacitor status and I found there was some leakage, but fortunatelly it didn't corroded other components nor traces. So I removed the clock capacitor and cleaned the area with isopropyl alcohol. Then proceeded to softmod the console with Rocky5 tools and I also updated the harddrive to a 2TB SATA HDD. Then I played almost all Rally Sport Challenge 2 cups (except the last one) to test it and after that I moved the console to the living room. Another day, I started the console to continue playing and, as soon as I started it, I heard a strong crack inside the console and some burned electronic smell, so I turned it off. Then I opened the console and I found a small tube moving around, so I started looking for its original place until I found it was one of the PSU capacitors, the one rated as 25V 47uf in a delta PSU. Then I ordered a couple of new PSUs from ebay, a delta and a minebea. As soon as they arrived, I replaced mine with the Delta one and the console can be powered on, but there was a strong burned electronic smell, so I quickly turned it off. By looking at the CPU capactitors, there was some brownish color, so I changed the 5x 1500uf 6.3v by 3x 3300uf 6.3v Panasonic FM, then turned the console on again and it was FRAGed and the smell it's not longer strong, BUT I still can smell a light "funny smell", this time it smells like "new" electronic. Please help me to throubleshoot this issue, I really would like to repair this xbox as it is the one I used 20 years ago. If you need pictures of anything please let me know.

Hi I recently got back to the og after seeing the clock cap problem. I have a version 1.0 that has trace damage from the cap. It works boots fine and replaced the thermal paste on gpu & cpu with MX4. I dont think its a heating issue. When I play a game it shuts off. On the dash the temps seem to be at 45 degrees Celsius 1. I am looking to preseve this for the future, is it possible this is a capacitor replated problem ? 2. This is a list ive tried to piece together with information looking around. Will these be suitable? for version 1.0 and 1.4 versions https://au.element14.com/panasonic/eeufr0j152l/cap-1500-f-6-3v-20/dp/2760316 https://au.element14.com/rubycon/16zl1500mefc12-5x20/cap-1500-f-16v-20/dp/1144693 https://industrial.panasonic.com/sa/products/pt/aluminum-cap-lead/models/EEUFR1A681 https://au.element14.com/rubycon/25zl100mefc6-3x11/cap-100-f-25v-20/dp/1144697 https://au.element14.com/rubycon/25ml22mefc5x5/cap-22-f-25v-20/dp/8126402 https://au.element14.com/nichicon/uut1c470mcl1gs/cap-47-f-16v-radial-smd/dp/8823200 https://au.element14.com/nichicon/uwx1c100mcl1gb/cap-10-f-16v-radial-smd/dp/8823022?st=16v 10uf nichicon wx 3. Are the Tantalum Capacitor better than SMD? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32983008282.html TANTALUM CAPACITOR, 10UF, 16V TANTALUM CAPACITOR, 47UF, 16V https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=78134 xbox ultimate solid-mod Really appreciate any replies, Kaos & SS Dave really know there stuff

A while ago I removed the clock capacitor from an Xbox v.1.1. Some days ago came the new capacitor I had ordered and I got to install it. Now, since I'm a complete amateur on the soldering thing, I may have damaged the capacitor or the mb, or the soldering job I did isn't good enough, BUT, how long is the date/time expected to last with a same rating capacitor? I never actually used a new Xbox and I don't know. My first results show that I must have messed up the installation. As far as I can tell I put it in the same place where I removed the old one (there was a leftover capacitor leg in one of the holes) and I used the correct polarity (the negative of the capacitor to the white side of the board's schematic). The capacitor I used is the one in the picture below. Thank you!

Hi, three capacitors that goes to the processor are bulging badly... red things on top etc.. Which caps are best to use? Which uF and volt for them?

Hi fellow kids. Just wondering if I should recap the power supply in my og Xbox?

Hello I bought my another Xbox recently. First of all I decided to remove clock capacitor, when I opened console I saw clock capacitor but in different color (green). Is this replacement or should I removed it also? As I check there is no leak or something

I checked my motherboard and a capacitor is not straight up, it´s like bent a little. Is that a problem? It´s not pointing straight forward up, a little bent..