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Hello everyone. I need information about the capacitor on the motherboard located near the ram slot. During soldering, it flew somewhere and I can't locate it. Does anyone of you have a boardview or any schematic that will help me identify this capacitor and its parameters?

After seeing lots of suggestions, usually for capacitors that aren't readily available, discontinued, or are marked "last chance to buy", I thought I'd try to put together some lists on Digikey of current/active caps for the Xbox. It might be good for people asking about caps, experiencing option paralysis, or even people who do this a lot and don't want to have to think about it. I would appreciate feedback, let me know if there's some better option or cheaper equivalent to something in one of these lists. Any dupes across revisions are the same model cap. Xbox v1.0-1.1 Capacitor Set Xbox v1.2-1.4 Capacitor Set Xbox v1.6 Capacitor Set Clock Cap (All revisions) Also, incase you're a prepper: v1.0-1.4 Capacitor Set, All Revisions Capacitor Set

Hello, I was changing out all the capacitors on the OGXbox. The Xbox is a working one. I didn't check for continuity before starting the work. After half way through, I started checking for continuity and saw that there is continuity on capacitors C7E2 and C7F1, circled in the picture. There is no continuity on the other caps, just these two. They show continuity to each other and to ground. I removed the capacitors, but the holes still show continuity, but the capacitors by themselves do not. I am a noob, so I do not know if the continuity is meant to be or not. I held the wires on there for a while to see if it will go away after filling up some caps, but nope. It also shows short to one side of all other caps as well. So, is it supposed to be or not? Please help, I do not want to ruin the board. (Ver. 1.4/1.5)

I've heard that you can replace the 5 1500 uf caps on a 1.0 and 1.1 with 3 3300 uf caps anywhere. I have been trying to fix a 3 boot fragging 1.1 with bad caps. I replaced it with the three capacitors and it still frags. When trying a modchip sometimes it fragged and sometimes it became a coma console (green light no video). Do you think this fragging is caused by the capacitors being the three 3300 uf caps? Does it still need to be the 5 1500 uf caps?

My xbox is turning on as soon as I plug it to the wall, somebody said its because of the trace corrosion, a capacitor might leaked. I checked the motherboard and found these: https://ibb.co/nfjRgNR https://ibb.co/wNM2H4d Are these corrosion due to the leaking capacitor? They are doesnt even wanna come off, I tried with toothbrush and rubbing alcohol and cotton swabs, but really hard to remove...

Curious if anyone knows the values for C4V3 for a 1.0 or 1.1 motherboard ( IIRC mine is 1.1 ). I was replacing all the electrolytics on my xbox yesterday. While trying to desolder the lead-free crap on the through holes I accidentally nudged this part off one of its pads. I guess the desoldering braid touched it or something. Its back on now but cracked and I'm worried I'll need to replace it.

Hello, i bought a used v1.0 xbox some months ago, which i've modded. but lately i've had problems with it. It manifested by some times i would turn it on and it does the 3 on/offs then christmas lights. Then all of a sudden it can work again for 5 times, next day i turn it on again, and it won't boot. Have to take out the motherboard and inspect my solderjoints, all ok, into the xbox and it might work again, if not repeat process etc. past 2 days i've used it, it's been working perfect then i noticed it just suddenly freezes and throws a high pitch sound on the speakers without me doing anything but just idling in xbmc menu somewhere. And now it won't start sucessfully at all. just christmas lights. And no occasional luck booting it up successfully either. I installed a aladdin modchip in it and have long been suspecting the solderwork there, since sometimes it boots and sometimes not. But now i'm thinking it might be the PSU that is the root of the problems. I looked at another thread and did the voltage testing on the 12v plug pin by starting the PSU and not connecting it to the motherboard. All the wires showed correct voltage except two. The blue wire (or grey as it is on the plug pin) is supposed to be 3.3v but shows 0.04v and the yellow wire which is supposed to be 12v but is showing 5.89v. I'm posting a picture of the psu and you can see 1 capacitor that is very bulged, i've marked it with red arrow. Should i swap out these caps with new ones? are they responsible for the incorrect voltage on specifically those 2 pins? Also the big caps on the motherboard is not bulged but i understand they can very well be off also, even it doesn't show to the naked eye. So basically are the problems coming from the PSU or the motherboard, Would it be enough to just swap out the 3 caps on the psu, you think? What about the big black 400V 180uF one? that can be a culprit too? Btw, when i started up the PSU with no load i can hear a sound coming from the big black 400v capacitator. it's buzzingsound with short 10milliseconds stops in between like as if electrolytic fluid is boiling and hissing in there. is that normal? With load it makes a lower clicking sound. it's prob just the hz from the powerline maybe.

I saw on reddit that they recommended a Taiyo yuden or Nichicon 1F 2.5V, but it seems these are now out of production.

Hello, Just wondering what you guys procedure is for cleaning up after leaking capacitors? I remove all the caps then clean with 99% isopropyl alcohol and a lightly scrub with a small brush... afterward a light clean with demineralized water and let dry for a few days before re capping. Is there special cleaners for this that would neutralize and clean better? Thanks

Let me share some context: The past year, I read about the clock capacitor, so I decided to open my xbox to check the clock capacitor status and I found there was some leakage, but fortunatelly it didn't corroded other components nor traces. So I removed the clock capacitor and cleaned the area with isopropyl alcohol. Then proceeded to softmod the console with Rocky5 tools and I also updated the harddrive to a 2TB SATA HDD. Then I played almost all Rally Sport Challenge 2 cups (except the last one) to test it and after that I moved the console to the living room. Another day, I started the console to continue playing and, as soon as I started it, I heard a strong crack inside the console and some burned electronic smell, so I turned it off. Then I opened the console and I found a small tube moving around, so I started looking for its original place until I found it was one of the PSU capacitors, the one rated as 25V 47uf in a delta PSU. Then I ordered a couple of new PSUs from ebay, a delta and a minebea. As soon as they arrived, I replaced mine with the Delta one and the console can be powered on, but there was a strong burned electronic smell, so I quickly turned it off. By looking at the CPU capactitors, there was some brownish color, so I changed the 5x 1500uf 6.3v by 3x 3300uf 6.3v Panasonic FM, then turned the console on again and it was FRAGed and the smell it's not longer strong, BUT I still can smell a light "funny smell", this time it smells like "new" electronic. Please help me to throubleshoot this issue, I really would like to repair this xbox as it is the one I used 20 years ago. If you need pictures of anything please let me know.

Hi I recently got back to the og after seeing the clock cap problem. I have a version 1.0 that has trace damage from the cap. It works boots fine and replaced the thermal paste on gpu & cpu with MX4. I dont think its a heating issue. When I play a game it shuts off. On the dash the temps seem to be at 45 degrees Celsius 1. I am looking to preseve this for the future, is it possible this is a capacitor replated problem ? 2. This is a list ive tried to piece together with information looking around. Will these be suitable? for version 1.0 and 1.4 versions https://au.element14.com/panasonic/eeufr0j152l/cap-1500-f-6-3v-20/dp/2760316 https://au.element14.com/rubycon/16zl1500mefc12-5x20/cap-1500-f-16v-20/dp/1144693 https://industrial.panasonic.com/sa/products/pt/aluminum-cap-lead/models/EEUFR1A681 https://au.element14.com/rubycon/25zl100mefc6-3x11/cap-100-f-25v-20/dp/1144697 https://au.element14.com/rubycon/25ml22mefc5x5/cap-22-f-25v-20/dp/8126402 https://au.element14.com/nichicon/uut1c470mcl1gs/cap-47-f-16v-radial-smd/dp/8823200 https://au.element14.com/nichicon/uwx1c100mcl1gb/cap-10-f-16v-radial-smd/dp/8823022?st=16v 10uf nichicon wx 3. Are the Tantalum Capacitor better than SMD? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32983008282.html TANTALUM CAPACITOR, 10UF, 16V TANTALUM CAPACITOR, 47UF, 16V https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=78134 xbox ultimate solid-mod Really appreciate any replies, Kaos & SS Dave really know there stuff

A while ago I removed the clock capacitor from an Xbox v.1.1. Some days ago came the new capacitor I had ordered and I got to install it. Now, since I'm a complete amateur on the soldering thing, I may have damaged the capacitor or the mb, or the soldering job I did isn't good enough, BUT, how long is the date/time expected to last with a same rating capacitor? I never actually used a new Xbox and I don't know. My first results show that I must have messed up the installation. As far as I can tell I put it in the same place where I removed the old one (there was a leftover capacitor leg in one of the holes) and I used the correct polarity (the negative of the capacitor to the white side of the board's schematic). The capacitor I used is the one in the picture below. Thank you!

Hi, three capacitors that goes to the processor are bulging badly... red things on top etc.. Which caps are best to use? Which uF and volt for them?

Hi fellow kids. Just wondering if I should recap the power supply in my og Xbox?

Hello I bought my another Xbox recently. First of all I decided to remove clock capacitor, when I opened console I saw clock capacitor but in different color (green). Is this replacement or should I removed it also? As I check there is no leak or something

I checked my motherboard and a capacitor is not straight up, it´s like bent a little. Is that a problem? It´s not pointing straight forward up, a little bent..

I've removed the clock capacitor and I'm considering replacing the remaining capacitors in both my 1.0 and 1.4 model Xbox consoles. I can't see any obvious bulging issues but from what I've read after having the consoles in storage for 10+ years it's a matter of when rather than if they will fail. Most capacitor kits I see for the Xbox only include a handful of capacitors rather than a complete set. Example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-Xbox-V1-2-1-5-Capacitor-Kit-3pcs-3300uF-6-3V-SANYO-WG-Super-Low-ESR/233613510241?hash=item3664734661:g:axcAAOSwHjxe3Z4~ Are there only specific capacitors that I should worry about replacing? Or should I aim to replace all capacitors on the board - even including the PSU? Or should I wait for issues to arise and just replace them when they need it. Thanks in advance for your wisdom

I have removed clockcapacitor the but I was unfortunate to find same exact specs. My understanding the clockcapacitor is 2.5v 1F is this correct? online order is not an option for me as of now...I am tring with local store, or to scrap from old motherboard a capacitor that would suffice so what would be the (range) of capacitor voltage/Farad ..... i.e would a capacitor with 6.3v /1000uF work as a replacement.

It has been some years since our beloved xBox was released and some parts have begun to decay. It is commonly advised to remove your clock capacitor and replace any leaking. 1st step, clear any leakage. It's acidic afterall and you'll need a tight grip. 2nd Gently pull at the capacitor being removed while applying heat to the solder with your iron. 3rd Once removed, prepare your replacement capacitor. The longer pin is usually positive. Align these with the holes your old capacitor was soldered into. If you are unable to push it through, apply heat to melt any solder blocking the hole. 4th once pulled through, bend each pin iutward to hold the capacitor position. You don't want it falling out or becoming loose. Apply solder at the base of each pin. 5th trim pins just above the solder. I used nail clippers as they were able to achieve a shorter trim. That and i misplaced my wire cutters. Refit your motherboard etc Power up and pray

My main gaming system is a green Halo xbox I bought maybe a year ago off ebay - it was in great condition and had never been opened before I got it. When I removed the case to clean it out I found the motherboard is a 1.4 revision with a gold clock capacitor. I remember reading online this is a high quality capacitor Microsoft switched to after they realized the cheap ones were failing. Does anyone here have any more information on this? Pics attached I took today.

I bought a used Xbox. It seems to be functioning. I removed the clock capacitor. However I found these capacitors to be slightly corroded. I cleaned it lightly with Isopropyl alcohol. (Not sure if that was a good idea). What should I do? Should I replace these capacitors. I believe this is a 1.2 revision. It was made Oct 2003. So not sure. By the way let that be known in case it hasn't happened to anyone. That other capacitors may be starting to go bad.

I'm not really an electronics guy, so bear with me here. 1.6 box, with a DuoX2 chip in it from about 15 years ago. One day a couple of months ago it was DOA, opened it up and the 5 capacitors were shot. Replaced them, with my godawful soldering skills, and it booted up and worked for about 3 minutes, loaded an emulator, then it froze, rebooted, and it powercycles twice and is flashing red/orange. Did I accidently fry something, or jump a connection where I shouldn't have, or cook something during the desoldering (PITA, me not being an electronics guy) or soldering? Is there spots i can look to diagnose a possible issue?

Hello If i have bad capacitors on a xbox pcb, can i use ok ones from another xbox pcb, or is it best to buy new ones?

Hi all, I have recently got into the modding scene and after some successful Wii mods have decided to turn my hand at the OG Xbox. I had one of these when I was a kid with a chip on it (don't know to much info as was a kid). I recently picked up 2nd hand Crystal OG Xbox's. One of them already has been softmodded and the other is a virgin, never had the lid popped. I am aware that the clock capacitor needs removing off of all motherboards rev. 1.1-.1.5 however, I have read places that you can cause the system to boot loop if not done correctly. My question is, I have a virgin, a softmod and a chip. Which of these is is safe to remove the capacitor from without getting into a bootloop? I am also finding the most up to date software and guides/information hard to find as there is information floating around from over 10years ago so hoping someone can push me in the right direction with dashboards and other ""basic info" on the latests and most supported software that would be a god send. Many thanks

I’m new to the modding scene, and I’m not an electronics wizard or software genius. I have a 1.1 and I keep seeing that I should absolutely move the clock capacitor. I have looked into why, and I guess it has a tendency to leak all over the MB? Can somebody clarify this for me? (This is the best spot I thought to post this due to motherboard alteration)