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This is going to start out as just being copied directly over from my thread on BitBuilt about the project. https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/xboxpsu.3387/ The xbox has some mildly odd power requirements. It uses the same 20 pin Molex MiniFit Jr connector that an ATX PSU output, however the pinout is completely different. As it stands, the typical solution is to use a PicoPSU, a small ATX PSU, a modify it to work with the original xbox. PicoPSUs can be had for around $15, the power supplies for them can be had for around $10. It's a very inexpensive solution. Traditionally when this is done, the Power OK and Power On lines are ignored, the PSU is set to always on, and the wires are run all catywumpus to get to where they need to go. While this solution works, it's definitely a hack, and I believe we can do better. So what are the xbox's actual power requirements? While I haven't actually cut up a power supply and tried to get the xbox to full load while measuring the current draw, I have a V1.1 PSU here that handily has the power requirements right on the label. Max Output Power: 96W DC Output: +5V -- 13.2A +3.3V -- 4.8A +12V --1.2A +3VSB -- 0.045A I hope it's safe to assume that further revisions of the xbox had similar or lower power draw. Regardless, this seems like a good starting point. So, how do I plan to accomplish this? With 4x LM2678 Regulators from Texas Instruments. http://www.ti.com/product/LM2678 Why 4 regulators for 3 voltages? The LM2678 is a 5A regulator. I need 13.2A on the 5V line. Having looked at the specs for the PicoPSUs that seem to work just fine, they're rated for 8A on the 5V line. This leads me to believe that 10A should suffice, so I'll need two regulators for 5V. I'll also need a 12V regulator, as I plan to run this off of an easily obtainable laptop power supply rather than needing to source an 8A 12V supply. I will also be designing a smaller footprint alternative that runs off of 12v for when space is of the highest concern. I'll likely also break down the xbox's power requirements even further at some point to see if I can't design a PSU that allows for aggressive trimming, but that's much further down the road. -------------------------------------------- I've designed the first iteration of the 24v board, it's 60*32mm. Now that it's done, I don't like it for a variety of reasons. I'm going to try again, putting the low profile components on the backside of the board and the tall components on the topside of it. Maybe I'll be able to squish it down a bit more in the process. -------------------------------------------- There, that's a little better. 27.5*49.25 mm -------------------------------------------- Oh, hey, I worked on this a bit. I ditched the 12v regulator and changed it to 12v in. I also had to source different inductors, which are sadly larger, so the whole board got a couple of mm wider in the process. 26.5mm*57.2mm I think I'm gonna actually order this one, and see if it works. -------------------------------------------- I've since looked at the most recent revision and noticed a couple of flaws in it. I've repaired those flaws, and I'm gonna sleep on it again, look at it with fresh eyes tomorrow, and probably order it.

Finally found the time to test the Adapter PCBs i built to use an ATX Psu to power an Xbox. They are plug and play to easily switch between the original psu and an atx-psu.Might be usable for casemods or laptop builds. The adapter is built around the following basic schematic. It properly convert the Standby voltage from 5v to 3,3v and also shifts the power_ok and power_good signals to the correct levels. Also built a small version that can be used to build an extension cord style adapter to save some more space. Just let me know if you have any questions about them

Hey all, To make a long story short, I spent most of today troubleshooting issues on my mod chipped 1.4 related to BIOS flashing, dashboard loading, swapping from stock HDD to a new one, stupid friggin error code 16, etc. I was confident I had finally solved the issue(s) and was about to plug in my new HDD to a (hopefully) successful boot. I had been working with the Xbox open all day swapping between the HDDs, but this time I had to remove the plastic HDD and DVD trays so I could get to my mod chip on the other side of the board. While the Xbox was plugged in and turned off, I let the IDE/SATA adapter dangle while I plugged the molex connector into my HDD. The adapter board made contact with a component in the PSU and POP. I had forgotten to put the plastic HDD tray back in place. Attached are photos of the PSU and adapter. When pressing the power button, nothing happens. I'm hoping it's jut the PSU that is damaged and nothing on the mainboard. I will leave it unplugged overnight then remove the PSU tomorrow to check for any damage on the underside. Has anyone here had a similar experience? Should I probe the PSU first to narrow down exactly what's wrong or is it better to just buy a replacement? Assuming I'll need a new IDE/SATA adapter as well. Thanks, Patrick

Hey guys, I recently turned on my OG Xbox after MANY years in storage (mostly temperature controlled storage) and I had no idea about the issues about the capacitors and so on. The DVD Drive and HDD seems to still be working fine with no issues. All of my old data was still there and I wanted to save the data to a memory card. I have learned that it is possible to save the data to a USB as well, but I think it might require a Softmod or something. The Fan still blows heat normally so it appears to be cooling the unit properly. Sadly I can't get the data from the drive at the moment. I tried to show plenty of pictures below as well. I have a few questions and concerns. Shortly after plugging in the unit I heard: -- 2 pops, but the console turned on and ran fine for a while (XB Dashboard and within a game). -- After a while my video went fuzzy\scrambled, reset and it started to FRAG during the game. (2 resets and Red\Green blinking) with no video). -- No smoke\smell or anything and I was able to open the tray to remove my disk. -- Same results after hard reset (FRAG). I did some research and learned more about the capacitor issue. I didn’t know any of this stuff before. I saw 2 busted capacitors from what I can see (those 2 pops). -- The Clock capacitor, which I eventually removed + cleaned the area (top and bottom) -- The PSU appears to have one leaking capacitor. Clock Capacitor: Battery Cap Leak - https://i.postimg.cc/jdfhZk4D/Fresh-leak.jpg Acid Corrosion - https://i.postimg.cc/BnGBycmM/Corroding-leak.jpg Battery Leak Cleaned - https://i.postimg.cc/9QtYjRSV/Cleaned.jpg Bottom of board Cleaned - https://i.postimg.cc/sfqcPR7F/Bottom-Cleaning.jpg Not knowing any better I let the clock “acid” sit there for a few days before cleaning because I was thinking about sending it in for repairs or something, but after reading more I decided to open it up and remove the Clock cap. It was pretty much corroded at this point and the leaked acid started to look horrible on my board. I cleaned it with 91% alcohol + Q-tips. For the corrosion I also scrapped some of the left over residue and kept wiping the entire area gently. The spill traveled further than I originally though. I checked the bottom of the board and saw a light cloudy color, but nothing too serious so I cleaned it up as well. Since the board was opened I decided to clean\wipe down the entire board from top and bottom. The board was in great condition, not too dirty\dusty, but since I had it opened….why not right? Power Supply Unit: PSU Cap Leak A - https://i.postimg.cc/Fs0jjkhc/PSU-Capacitor-lea-A.jpg PSU Cap Leak B - https://i.postimg.cc/447vxFMW/PSU-Capacitor-leak-B.jpg PSU Cap Leak C - https://i.postimg.cc/W1ngyRF1/PSU-Capacitor-leak-C.jpg PSU Cap Leak D - https://i.postimg.cc/8CzMQyMB/PSU-Capacitor-leak-D.jpg PSU Cap Leak E - https://i.postimg.cc/j27y3LNp/PSU-Capacitor-leak-E.jpg PSU Bottom A - https://i.postimg.cc/PfgWpQnT/PSU-Bottom-A.jpg PSU Bottom B - https://i.postimg.cc/P5h1Kfq7/PSU-Bottom-B.jpg Based on my research I have an Xbox v1.3 revision. The PSU capacitor leak looks fine on the bottom of the PSU and it appears that I have one of the “reinforced” PSUs that should not spark or cause a potential fire due the power connector\solder joint issue (constant insertion and removal of the power cable from what I’ve learned so far). Also, I did NOT wipe the PSU clean\wipe down top and bottom and honestly I didn’t want to touch it. Can someone tell me how long it takes for the PSU to drain and becomes much safer to handle? I know that PSUs (not just OG Xbox’s) can hold a charge for a very long time after being unplugged. I never touched it while cleaning the Clock capacitor leak. I let it (PSU) sit for roughly 10 days so I suppose it was safe to handle. I wasn't going to touch it, but I wanted to check the bottom of the PSU to see if there was any damage. I pretty much pulled it out and re-installed it by using the cabling and not even touching the damn thing. I have a Foxlink PSU, but I wanted to replace it with another one of the three brands. I believe they are interchangeable from what I’ve read. I noticed that the cable “color” was a bit different on the Delta, but the pinouts are the same I believe. I have the OG Xbox surge protector on the way just to be safe. Before investing into another PSU I was wondering what could be the harm in plugging in my current Foxlink with the leaking capacitor that already popped just to check and “see” if the console boots with no errors. If it boots to the Dashboard then I could turn it off and place the order for a replacement unit. Any potential issues with trying this before spending money on a PSU? Also I'd like to know an estimated amount of time that the PSU can hold a charge.

The more I check my Xboxes the more I find. Today I popped another open, it's been working perfectly but had some caps gone, different ones to I have been finding though, they're the more solid type caps. The guy I had do my modchips two decades ago seemed to like sticking on heat sinks, maybe to make his work seem premium, unusual place to bother putting one though I think. Anyway, here are the caps that I believe are popped. I'm not even sure what that mod chip is, I was able to put Cerbios 2.42 on it with XblastOS no problems. The board looked nasty around the two caps so I've cleaned that all up with a spray can of electroncis PCB cleaner. Here's the full board, they're the only bad looking caps, the clock caps been removed at some point thankfully. This is a zoom in after the clean up, it came up pretty good I think. Now what caps can I buy to fix those two? Hopefully I can source some locally somewhere to speed up the process. I have these in my Xbox parts collection, will these do the trick? I can't read much on the others but do see they're 6.3v. Thanks in advance for the caps advice and identifying the mod chip. I just noticed it has a Foxlink PSU so I popped it out for a look and found this What is this brown stuff? Scorch marks on the bottom of the case Otherwise it looks OK

After cable recall, Xbox's still frying The fix isn't in By Andrew Orlowski, 19 Mar 2005 (TheRegister) 14 million games console owners are still at risk of waking up to find their Xbox has become an ex-box. For when Microsoft issued a safety advisory for Xbox customers last month, it failed to address the underlying problem. After several reports of consoles catching fire, Microsoft urged 14 million console owners to send in their old power leads for a replacement. But hardware experts point out that the power cable was never at root of the problem: it simply made the existing problem worse. The meltdown, and subsequent fire risk was actually caused by wear and tear on the power supply used in early models of the Xbox. The replacement cable featured a trip, which cut down the risk of your house catching fire, but left unfortunate gamers with a fried console. The cord has an interrupter switch that acts like a conventional fuse, tripping power to the unit. Microsoft's decision to limit its liabilities, rather than address the root of the problem, has led to a particularly bizarre situation. Customers who don't need to participate in the program are being shipped an identical cable to the one they've got. Microsoft last month advised console owners to unplug the Xbox from the mains, and claimed the risk is only 1 in 10,000. Ryan, an Xbox modder in Northern California who has disassembled the console, confirms that solder on two prongs holding the Foxlink power supply in place wear out. The problem affects versions 1.0 and 1.1 of the power supply. The design flaw was fixed in subsequent power supplies. I will pop open my case when I can, I know i have a Foxlink PSU

So. I am thinking of a some what weird and not that practical mod. My issue is with space obv so I am searching for a smaller or at least thinner PSU and I'd like to know if someone has ever used different kind of disc drive on a Xbox like a thinner and smaller one again . I know it would be easier to do a disc drive delete and load games on the HDD. But I like using disc s . And it's just a side project for fun . I just wanna make a slim version while keeping the choice of loading discs.

I recently found this PSU adapter inside a EU 1.4. Out of all the xboxes I've popped open, I've never seen one of these before. Anyone else?

I moved to France and I don't have a transformer of power to step down to 110v. I have a PC ATX PSU with 16amps on 3.3, 5v, and 12v. There is also a +5vsb. Can I just match the voltages from the original PSU (delta and functional) from the ATX PSU? Does 1.6b have 3.3v or 5v standby? I really don't mind if I have to power the Xbox on and off from the ATX PSU itself and I don't mind that the supply will sit outside of the box. So can I skip the power STB and OK? Are there other concerns about connecting an ATX PSU other than non matching pinouts? My ATX PSU is a DSP-220U B-3A In France I am having a hard time finding a 240v PSU without having to buy a whole console which is a bit pricy. I could get a transformer, but I don't trust the ones I see on the market that are not huge black boxes. My Xbox: 1.6b (xcaliber video encoder with hynix ram) Xecuter 3 modded with X3CP 2TB SATA HDMI via Nintendo Wii adapter

heya, i recently bought a commissioned xbox from the US, and it's a 1.0 with a dual capacitor PSU. feels a bit sketchy to just use a 220v-to-110v stepdown transformer for the Xbox, so what can be done to mod it into a 220v PSU? saw from another forum post that apparently 220v "worked just fine" on it, but i'm skeptical and don't want to immediately blow up something I spent money on

Has any one really had a look for the differences between the 110 and 220 volt supplies. I have started comparing a Jap PSU (100-127 volt) to a Aus PSU (220-240 volt) and so far the two main differences is the Aus spec has a extra power filter on the AC input and the Jap version has a hidden link under the main power filter The part with the red star is on the 220 volt and on the 110 volt there is a link at the red arrow The blue arrows are the only difference I have seen so far as far as the different input voltage and the link is doing the same as a universal Xbox PSU I have that has a 110/220 switch. It is looking like you could add a link to make a 220v into a 110v or remove it to make a 110v into a 220v version. https://imgur.com/a/g5nWjqw Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

Anyone know what resistor R6 is? I tried googling it. The one in my psu is cooked a little and the color bands aren't readable, it came that way. It has not been a problem but I think I'll get a replacement while I'm buying other things just cuz.

Got a dead XBOX 1.6 for cheap, it was super clean but had been previously opened so I was a little wary of what I'd find inside. Power supply fuse was missing and the attached pic is the soldering butcher job i found. I'm not familiar with 1.6 PSUs, and couldn't find any quality pics of one online to see what the layout is supposed to be, so i'm wondering if there is any saving this? Don't know what continuity (if any) is supposed to exist between the 3 points there. The bottom round hole is where the fuse is supposed to attach. Worried that the damage/solder spill shorted or created unwanted continuity but can't tell since I don't know how it was originally. The brown lines are what appears to be scratches as if someone tried to scratch away solder to keep the points separated? I dunno. If it is fixable, was wondering what could have caused the fuse to blow that necessitated the repair attempt, as in are there any usual suspects I should look/test for on the Power supply? The rest of the Power supply looks fine. The mobo had some bad caps so i went ahead and replaced the 5 usual ones there but other than that no visible defects on either the mobo or power supply. Any help or thoughts on power supply layout and downstream test/checks would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hey all! I have a 1.0 that spools up to boot for about 2 seconds and then shuts down. Does that twice and then I can get it to stay powered with a FRAG 50/50 but never has any detectable video output. Not hard modded. I pulled the five Caps by the CPU and they all checked within limits. Clock cap is removed and there is not trace rot. Power supply works normal with other 1.0 boards. Any ideas? Thanks in advance

I've got a 1.6 with good traces that won't power on. If I hold the power button in I can hear the HDD spinning but nothing else happens, no video output, the led's don't light up, nothing.. Before I go about ordering the replacement transistor for the mb, I'd like to test the psu to make sure it's working, and I don't have any other 1.6's around to try it out in. I've been looking around online for 45 mins and can't find anything specific to testing the psu for correct voltage (it's a Delta if that matters, and everything looks flawless on it, no obvious problems.) If anyone can help me out with this, or has another idea of what may be the problem, I'd appreciate it immensely (and yes I have a multimeter handy :P) Cheers, Jim

hey fellas. something awful happened. my sata adapter fell on my PSU and sparks flew. I don't know where to start troubleshooting. The Xbox doesn't turn on anymore. I cannot tell if the damage stopped at the PSU or went into the console. The copper ring step down transformer looks fried.

If anyone has a non-working PSU they want to sell, Ill buy.

From finland, with xbox original with bad psu.

Anybody have a 120V PSU out of an Xbox v1.6 they wouldn’t mind parting with? The Delta variant PN is 96DP. Not sure what the other ones are. Thanks!

Hi guys, first time posting here. So, I live in Brazil and the OG Xbox never got sold here. Recently bought one with a defective 110V PSU to attempt to repair and have currently reached a dead end trying to solve it. What I currently have is the following: ===PSU's PRIMARY SIDE=== - First filter cap (the really big one near) has a reading of approx. 170V. - When powering off, the voltage drains off filter cap normally. ===SECONDARY SIDE=== - No bulging caps, haven't recapped. Shorted VSTB to POW-ON to test and got the following: - 3.27V on VSTB to POW-ON, which I understand is what is needed. - 3.16V on VSTB to VS, which I think is low. - 5.3 on DNA1002D's pin 1, which I'm not sure is supposed to be that high. - 13.5V on the HV end of the optocouplers and little to nothing on the other end, which I think is wrong. - nothing on the pins for 5V nor 12V when shorting VSTB to POW-ON My best bet is the voltage is off on the secondary part of the PSU, maybe because of a faulty transistor or resistor (haven't found the fault) and POW-OK isn't triggering the feedback circuit, but I'm not entirely sure. I'm an amateur at best and know I shouldn't be attempting to repair a PSU with little knowledge, but am taking every precaution possible. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks!

My in January repaired 1.4 Xbox console is dead today, it didn't turn on Both the power and eject button does nothing. It played fine a week ago. I opened it up, disconnected the PSU from the mainboard and used a multimeter to check the voltage between the grey pin and ground according to the diagram below (Delta PSU). It only jumps to 0,05-0,1v when it's connected to a power outlet. It gives no 3,3v. Does it mean the PSU is dead and not easily fixable?

I have a v1.4 that doesn't seem to be getting power at all, zero response from power/eject so I've tried a bunch of stuff: - Replaced 3x 3300uF 6.3V, 3x 1500uF 6.3V, and 2x 3300uF 10V caps, all the big ones - Checked continuity on those 4 lines that usually get rotted, 3 were good, rebuilt 1 and confirmed continuity with the top of the board - Reflowed the 20 pin ATX header - Tested with 2 known good PSUs - Tested with 2 known good front panel PCBs I haven't seen this behavior (or lack of) before and had it not be bad caps, but if there's something to be tried short of an entire recap, I'm unaware of what that would be. Anyone have any ideas?

I have a Tuscany PSU that is a 1.6 version and I wanted to know can this be tested with out the xbox? The 5VSTB (reds) on the 20 pin connector is measuring 3.9V. Is this normal if not connected to xbox?

I have this xbox PSU TUSCANY model but with missing components ,and i wanna repair it Can anyone help me with missing components reference. thnx.

When I was looking for a extra gamepad, I came across a "duke" gamepad including a whole Xbox for 10 bucks, I couldn't resist not taking it Everything works, but inside the Xbox it looks like it has a 1.0 board. I've read things about the Foxlink PSU in 1.0 units... and this one has the Foxlink The pins on the AC connector are slightly movable and the solder is cracked, but working. After taking the picture I resoldered it. Is resoldering the only fix for it to prevent melting away some day? Second thing is the fan on the GPU heatsink which makes noise the first minute it's tuned on. The same noise PC fans make when they are worn. But with a PC fan I can remove the label to reveal the bearing and put a drop of oil in it, letting it run quietly again for a couple more years. But removing the label on this GPU fan doesn't reveal the bearing. Is this fan repairable in a different way?