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Found 20 results

  1. This is going to start out as just being copied directly over from my thread on BitBuilt about the project. https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/xboxpsu.3387/ The xbox has some mildly odd power requirements. It uses the same 20 pin Molex MiniFit Jr connector that an ATX PSU output, however the pinout is completely different. As it stands, the typical solution is to use a PicoPSU, a small ATX PSU, a modify it to work with the original xbox. PicoPSUs can be had for around $15, the power supplies for them can be had for around $10. It's a very inexpensive solution. Traditionally when this is done, the Power OK and Power On lines are ignored, the PSU is set to always on, and the wires are run all catywumpus to get to where they need to go. While this solution works, it's definitely a hack, and I believe we can do better. So what are the xbox's actual power requirements? While I haven't actually cut up a power supply and tried to get the xbox to full load while measuring the current draw, I have a V1.1 PSU here that handily has the power requirements right on the label. Max Output Power: 96W DC Output: +5V -- 13.2A +3.3V -- 4.8A +12V --1.2A +3VSB -- 0.045A I hope it's safe to assume that further revisions of the xbox had similar or lower power draw. Regardless, this seems like a good starting point. So, how do I plan to accomplish this? With 4x LM2678 Regulators from Texas Instruments. http://www.ti.com/product/LM2678 Why 4 regulators for 3 voltages? The LM2678 is a 5A regulator. I need 13.2A on the 5V line. Having looked at the specs for the PicoPSUs that seem to work just fine, they're rated for 8A on the 5V line. This leads me to believe that 10A should suffice, so I'll need two regulators for 5V. I'll also need a 12V regulator, as I plan to run this off of an easily obtainable laptop power supply rather than needing to source an 8A 12V supply. I will also be designing a smaller footprint alternative that runs off of 12v for when space is of the highest concern. I'll likely also break down the xbox's power requirements even further at some point to see if I can't design a PSU that allows for aggressive trimming, but that's much further down the road. -------------------------------------------- I've designed the first iteration of the 24v board, it's 60*32mm. Now that it's done, I don't like it for a variety of reasons. I'm going to try again, putting the low profile components on the backside of the board and the tall components on the topside of it. Maybe I'll be able to squish it down a bit more in the process. -------------------------------------------- There, that's a little better. 27.5*49.25 mm -------------------------------------------- Oh, hey, I worked on this a bit. I ditched the 12v regulator and changed it to 12v in. I also had to source different inductors, which are sadly larger, so the whole board got a couple of mm wider in the process. 26.5mm*57.2mm I think I'm gonna actually order this one, and see if it works. -------------------------------------------- I've since looked at the most recent revision and noticed a couple of flaws in it. I've repaired those flaws, and I'm gonna sleep on it again, look at it with fresh eyes tomorrow, and probably order it.
  2. Finally found the time to test the Adapter PCBs i built to use an ATX Psu to power an Xbox. They are plug and play to easily switch between the original psu and an atx-psu.Might be usable for casemods or laptop builds. The adapter is built around the following basic schematic. It properly convert the Standby voltage from 5v to 3,3v and also shifts the power_ok and power_good signals to the correct levels. Also built a small version that can be used to build an extension cord style adapter to save some more space. Just let me know if you have any questions about them
  3. Have a NTSC xbox 1.0 console but live in Italy here is the 220v current,you can mod the PSU to 110v to 220v? at the moment use a step down converter and works fine.
  4. Hey guys, i' got this 1.6 PSU that seems to be turning the 12v line OFF after some time until it stops feeding it at all. The PSU was burned and repaired by other than me. It seems to be working perfectly, as i made a jumper from the 12v capacitor and it does indeed boot and work for hours, so it must be some component that's responsible for turning off the 12v line on it that is shorted or not operating properly. The thing is, i can't see any damaged component. All the other lines do work and the power button does seem to function. I've been trying to track what component turns off the 12v line when i turn off the console, but to do that i'd need a spare 1.6 PSU which i don't have at the moment. It's a Delta PSU by the way. I've made another post on this forum about the issue but it was in the wrong section. Also i didn't had a clue about what was making the PSU turn off until i found it was the 12v line.
  5. Hey guys, I'm trying to find the problem of this Delta psu, it's a us 110v psu. I turn it on, and after some time the console turns off. If I try to turn it on again, it does, but it turns off in a shorter time. It goes like this until it doesn't turn on anymore. If I unplug it and wait some time, it goes back to working until it decides to turn off again. I've checked all caps and all seems to be in working condition. This psu has been repaired before by someone else before I got my hands on it, the fuse has been replaced and the old varistor left some black fumes around it. There isn't any visible damage on the components. Any tips? I just noticed I created the thread in the wrong section. Sorry about that
  6. harrytooth

    Fried Psu

    Hey guys, I'm an American that has lived in Europe for 10+ years. When I initially came over, I brought along my original xbox console and had a lot of fun with it until I made the mistake of plugging the 110v system into a 220v outlet without a transformer... Dumb, I know but now I want to fix it. This console is a circa 2004 Halo Edition so it would be a real shame to toss it. I received a used PSU from Ebay (a Foxlink) and modified the plug in order for it to work following a great article from this forum : Thanks Xbox Admin, this article was really helpful. I unfortunately couldn't get the console to power on even though everything was hooked up. So my question is, does anyone know if the there's a possibility that I managed to damage the whole console beyond repair? Should I pull the trigger on another (and correct Delta PSU this time) to try fixing it again? If anyone has any advice I would love to hear it. Thanks!
  7. My OG xbox wont turn on. Not a single bulging or leaky cap. I was going to replace all the caps but I noticed this and I dont know what it is, how to tell if its bad or how to order a new one. It looks kinda burned on the top but it just appears to be the rubber and not the part itself. is there a way to check it with a multi meter. The part I am asking about is the one in the first picture
  8. So this is my struggle, I bought a japanese Sega Saturn model 2 more than a year ago. The power switch on it came completely destroyed. No refunds for me, because it wasn't the seller fault, etc. After 1 year of procrastinating, I tried to fix my Saturn. And believe it or not, I found the part I was looking for to fix the power switch!! I could not believe it, because I live in Chile, near the south pole, and an old tech geezer had the part I was looking for! I was so happy! I fixed it, so I thought, but I came down with the reality that now the PSU was completely dead. Aesthetically the PSU is perfect!! Nothing blown, nothing cracked, and nothing corroded. I already tried to fix it with the help of a great guy on Reddit, but to no avail. So here it is my idea, could anyone in this wonderful community spare with me a Saturn PSU? A PAL 220v PSU hopefully? I have in my possesion three 220v OG Xbox PSU's and one 110V American OG Xbox PSU. I could give any of those PSU's in return for a PAL Sega Saturn PSU, my PSU's are perfect and all working great! My best regards to everyone! You have always been great to me. Hector Hidalgo.
  9. Hi, my precious modded Xbox is a UK device and I have been working on the basis that the PSU is 220v only and will need to be replaced with a 110v supply. Can anyone confirm that this is the case - if it can handle multi voltage then that would be a great surprise. Obviously if I need to replace the PSU thats fine - would anyone have any tips / pitfalls I need to be aware of?? Cheers
  10. Hi. I have one of the modded Xbox consoles that I bought from N64Freak last year. It's a v1.0 and the power supply has failed, I've tested the console with an old PC PSU just to verify that it's the PSU and it booted. Since the PC power supply has no chance of fitting into the console, and I can't find a power supply that isn't from the USA, I'm going to buy a broken console for spares and use the PSU from that. So here's my question then, I know that a V1.6 PSU likely won't work since it has 5V on in standby and POWOK has 3.3v in standby, while all the other models only have a 3.3V line active in standby. Will a PSU from a V1.1 up to a v1.5 work if I can source one? The v1.0 seems to have these cables running to the motherboard: 12v = 1 cable 5v = 3 cables 3.3v = 1 cable STDBY = 1 cable (3.3v) GND = 4 POWOK = 1 POWON = 1 The v1.1-v1.5 seems to have: 12v = 1 cable 5v = 4 cables 3.3v = 2 cables STDBY = 1 cable (3.3v) GND = 5 cables POWOK = 1 cable POWON = 1 cable Am I right in assuming I could just route the cables from a v1.1-v1.5 into the headers they belong in on the v1.0 motherboard, and just leave out the extra unneeded 5v, 3.3v, and GND cables? My main concern is whether the newer PSU will have enough wattage to power the console, since I was thinking that the v1.0 might have used more power.
  11. http://www.ombouwwereld.nl/microsoft-xbox-1-classic/xbox-1-classic-voeding.html
  12. Hello guys, I am talking to you from the end of the world, I live in the south of Chile, very near the antartic (yes it's cold). So... here is the thing, I recently got an original Xbox, controllers came dead, DVD drive didn't work, well nothing worked really hahahahha Nevermind, I fixed all of those issues, it didn't even came with screws! I bought new screws, a new IDE cable, I also fix the DVD. SO everything is working now! And I am waiting for my original Xbox controller on the mail. But there is one thing I cannot fix, the Power supply. In here we use 220v, but the Xbox I bought is an American Xbox 1.6 version (110v). I did not buy a PAL Xbox because we are NTSC 60hz! (ironic). Thing is, I search the entire Ebay, Amazon, everything, and I could NOT find anywhere to buy a European PSU for the Xbox. So... I come to you guys, you are my last hope in this world, if anyone has or knows someone who has a PAL PSU for the original XBOX, I would thank you forever. These are the models that exist for the 1.6 PAL XBOX: Delta DPSN-96DP-1 or Samsung (Tuscany) PSCD101301B Those are the only two models in existence, if someone could sell one to me, or even better, giveaway, I would be more than happy. No matter, please help me guys, I love this console so much, because I loved the 360 also. Waiting for any feedback, Hector Hidalgo aka Nacho el Kid. I am uploading a picture of one of the PSU's I am looking for (Samsung).
  13. Hello guys, I am from south america, I live near the end of the world! And it is my first time with an XBOX (sounds a bit gay). Thing is, I am suffering with my new original Xbox. It came with two controllers, but, both are completely dead, I opened them, and they are unfixable. No screws on the console, I bought them all, hard drive was not working, I bought a new IDE cable, now is working. The DVD drive was not opening, I fixed it with a needle. AND the only problem I have left with no solution is the power supply, it is 110v, 1.6b, made in 2005. I need a 220v! It has been quite a headache, I got myself a power down convertor, it works, but it sounds like a nuclear plant! "Not good" (Trump voice) So dear guys if you have any deals, or any seller of 220v PSU for the Xbox, be sure to let me know! My most thankful cheers to you all! Cannot wait to play Halo 2 online using Xlink kai with all of you My Sony Wega is ready hehehhhe
  14. Hey guys has anyone ever thought of making a new xbox psu like one that has more power and is about the same size but has a few extra molex connectors and such if not that would be a great project to see come out on the og xbox.
  15. I've got a 1.6 with good traces that won't power on. If I hold the power button in I can hear the HDD spinning but nothing else happens, no video output, the led's don't light up, nothing.. Before I go about ordering the replacement transistor for the mb, I'd like to test the psu to make sure it's working, and I don't have any other 1.6's around to try it out in. I've been looking around online for 45 mins and can't find anything specific to testing the psu for correct voltage (it's a Delta if that matters, and everything looks flawless on it, no obvious problems.) If anyone can help me out with this, or has another idea of what may be the problem, I'd appreciate it immensely (and yes I have a multimeter handy :P) Cheers, Jim
  16. Hi all, My trusty old XBox has stopped powering up (no lights or drive activity, nothing). I have opened it up to check for leaking caps. It is a 1.0 or 1.1 version, so I checked the clock capacitor which had indeed leaked so I removed it and cleaned the pcb but still no joy. Then I started testing the FoxLink PSU. The socket soldering looks ok and I found that at least the 1st coil has tension, but when measuring the pins on the mobo connector there is nothing (I also measured the Power OK and Power ON pins). I can’t see any visual damage on the PSU. Can I conclude that this PSU is dead or is this normal?
  17. After cable recall, Xbox's still frying The fix isn't in By Andrew Orlowski, 19 Mar 2005 (TheRegister) 14 million games console owners are still at risk of waking up to find their Xbox has become an ex-box. For when Microsoft issued a safety advisory for Xbox customers last month, it failed to address the underlying problem. After several reports of consoles catching fire, Microsoft urged 14 million console owners to send in their old power leads for a replacement. But hardware experts point out that the power cable was never at root of the problem: it simply made the existing problem worse. The meltdown, and subsequent fire risk was actually caused by wear and tear on the power supply used in early models of the Xbox. The replacement cable featured a trip, which cut down the risk of your house catching fire, but left unfortunate gamers with a fried console. The cord has an interrupter switch that acts like a conventional fuse, tripping power to the unit. Microsoft's decision to limit its liabilities, rather than address the root of the problem, has led to a particularly bizarre situation. Customers who don't need to participate in the program are being shipped an identical cable to the one they've got. Microsoft last month advised console owners to unplug the Xbox from the mains, and claimed the risk is only 1 in 10,000. Ryan, an Xbox modder in Northern California who has disassembled the console, confirms that solder on two prongs holding the Foxlink power supply in place wear out. The problem affects versions 1.0 and 1.1 of the power supply. The design flaw was fixed in subsequent power supplies. I will pop open my case when I can, I know i have a Foxlink PSU
  18. Curious about this PSU. Obviously by samsung Looks like foxlink v1.2-1.5 but wire color is slightly different according to these pics My supply pin-out below: the white smear on the red wire second from top right column is a second white wire alongside the red leading into pin X@ on black beside purple is 2 blacks crimped in pin bottom right pin is brown on mine instead of gray.... looks like its a similar supply? anyone know about this?
  19. Doesn't look too good. Thing was filled with dead crickets.

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