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  1. Has any one really had a look for the differences between the 110 and 220 volt supplies. I have started comparing a Jap PSU (100-127 volt) to a Aus PSU (220-240 volt) and so far the two main differences is the Aus spec has a extra power filter on the AC input and the Jap version has a hidden link under the main power filter The part with the red star is on the 220 volt and on the 110 volt there is a link at the red arrow The blue arrows are the only difference I have seen so far as far as the different input voltage and the link is doing the same as a universal Xbox PSU I have that has a 110/220 switch. It is looking like you could add a link to make a 220v into a 110v or remove it to make a 110v into a 220v version. https://imgur.com/a/g5nWjqw Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.
  2. Anyone know what resistor R6 is? I tried googling it. The one in my psu is cooked a little and the color bands aren't readable, it came that way. It has not been a problem but I think I'll get a replacement while I'm buying other things just cuz.
  3. Got a dead XBOX 1.6 for cheap, it was super clean but had been previously opened so I was a little wary of what I'd find inside. Power supply fuse was missing and the attached pic is the soldering butcher job i found. I'm not familiar with 1.6 PSUs, and couldn't find any quality pics of one online to see what the layout is supposed to be, so i'm wondering if there is any saving this? Don't know what continuity (if any) is supposed to exist between the 3 points there. The bottom round hole is where the fuse is supposed to attach. Worried that the damage/solder spill shorted or created unwanted continuity but can't tell since I don't know how it was originally. The brown lines are what appears to be scratches as if someone tried to scratch away solder to keep the points separated? I dunno. If it is fixable, was wondering what could have caused the fuse to blow that necessitated the repair attempt, as in are there any usual suspects I should look/test for on the Power supply? The rest of the Power supply looks fine. The mobo had some bad caps so i went ahead and replaced the 5 usual ones there but other than that no visible defects on either the mobo or power supply. Any help or thoughts on power supply layout and downstream test/checks would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  4. Hey all! I have a 1.0 that spools up to boot for about 2 seconds and then shuts down. Does that twice and then I can get it to stay powered with a FRAG 50/50 but never has any detectable video output. Not hard modded. I pulled the five Caps by the CPU and they all checked within limits. Clock cap is removed and there is not trace rot. Power supply works normal with other 1.0 boards. Any ideas? Thanks in advance
  5. I've got a 1.6 with good traces that won't power on. If I hold the power button in I can hear the HDD spinning but nothing else happens, no video output, the led's don't light up, nothing.. Before I go about ordering the replacement transistor for the mb, I'd like to test the psu to make sure it's working, and I don't have any other 1.6's around to try it out in. I've been looking around online for 45 mins and can't find anything specific to testing the psu for correct voltage (it's a Delta if that matters, and everything looks flawless on it, no obvious problems.) If anyone can help me out with this, or has another idea of what may be the problem, I'd appreciate it immensely (and yes I have a multimeter handy :P) Cheers, Jim
  6. hey fellas. something awful happened. my sata adapter fell on my PSU and sparks flew. I don't know where to start troubleshooting. The Xbox doesn't turn on anymore. I cannot tell if the damage stopped at the PSU or went into the console. The copper ring step down transformer looks fried.
  7. If anyone has a non-working PSU they want to sell, Ill buy.
  8. From finland, with xbox original with bad psu.
  9. Anybody have a 120V PSU out of an Xbox v1.6 they wouldn’t mind parting with? The Delta variant PN is 96DP. Not sure what the other ones are. Thanks!
  10. Hi guys, first time posting here. So, I live in Brazil and the OG Xbox never got sold here. Recently bought one with a defective 110V PSU to attempt to repair and have currently reached a dead end trying to solve it. What I currently have is the following: ===PSU's PRIMARY SIDE=== - First filter cap (the really big one near) has a reading of approx. 170V. - When powering off, the voltage drains off filter cap normally. ===SECONDARY SIDE=== - No bulging caps, haven't recapped. Shorted VSTB to POW-ON to test and got the following: - 3.27V on VSTB to POW-ON, which I understand is what is needed. - 3.16V on VSTB to VS, which I think is low. - 5.3 on DNA1002D's pin 1, which I'm not sure is supposed to be that high. - 13.5V on the HV end of the optocouplers and little to nothing on the other end, which I think is wrong. - nothing on the pins for 5V nor 12V when shorting VSTB to POW-ON My best bet is the voltage is off on the secondary part of the PSU, maybe because of a faulty transistor or resistor (haven't found the fault) and POW-OK isn't triggering the feedback circuit, but I'm not entirely sure. I'm an amateur at best and know I shouldn't be attempting to repair a PSU with little knowledge, but am taking every precaution possible. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks!
  11. My in January repaired 1.4 Xbox console is dead today, it didn't turn on Both the power and eject button does nothing. It played fine a week ago. I opened it up, disconnected the PSU from the mainboard and used a multimeter to check the voltage between the grey pin and ground according to the diagram below (Delta PSU). It only jumps to 0,05-0,1v when it's connected to a power outlet. It gives no 3,3v. Does it mean the PSU is dead and not easily fixable?
  12. I have a v1.4 that doesn't seem to be getting power at all, zero response from power/eject so I've tried a bunch of stuff: - Replaced 3x 3300uF 6.3V, 3x 1500uF 6.3V, and 2x 3300uF 10V caps, all the big ones - Checked continuity on those 4 lines that usually get rotted, 3 were good, rebuilt 1 and confirmed continuity with the top of the board - Reflowed the 20 pin ATX header - Tested with 2 known good PSUs - Tested with 2 known good front panel PCBs I haven't seen this behavior (or lack of) before and had it not be bad caps, but if there's something to be tried short of an entire recap, I'm unaware of what that would be. Anyone have any ideas?
  13. This is going to start out as just being copied directly over from my thread on BitBuilt about the project. https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/xboxpsu.3387/ The xbox has some mildly odd power requirements. It uses the same 20 pin Molex MiniFit Jr connector that an ATX PSU output, however the pinout is completely different. As it stands, the typical solution is to use a PicoPSU, a small ATX PSU, a modify it to work with the original xbox. PicoPSUs can be had for around $15, the power supplies for them can be had for around $10. It's a very inexpensive solution. Traditionally when this is done, the Power OK and Power On lines are ignored, the PSU is set to always on, and the wires are run all catywumpus to get to where they need to go. While this solution works, it's definitely a hack, and I believe we can do better. So what are the xbox's actual power requirements? While I haven't actually cut up a power supply and tried to get the xbox to full load while measuring the current draw, I have a V1.1 PSU here that handily has the power requirements right on the label. Max Output Power: 96W DC Output: +5V -- 13.2A +3.3V -- 4.8A +12V --1.2A +3VSB -- 0.045A I hope it's safe to assume that further revisions of the xbox had similar or lower power draw. Regardless, this seems like a good starting point. So, how do I plan to accomplish this? With 4x LM2678 Regulators from Texas Instruments. http://www.ti.com/product/LM2678 Why 4 regulators for 3 voltages? The LM2678 is a 5A regulator. I need 13.2A on the 5V line. Having looked at the specs for the PicoPSUs that seem to work just fine, they're rated for 8A on the 5V line. This leads me to believe that 10A should suffice, so I'll need two regulators for 5V. I'll also need a 12V regulator, as I plan to run this off of an easily obtainable laptop power supply rather than needing to source an 8A 12V supply. I will also be designing a smaller footprint alternative that runs off of 12v for when space is of the highest concern. I'll likely also break down the xbox's power requirements even further at some point to see if I can't design a PSU that allows for aggressive trimming, but that's much further down the road. -------------------------------------------- I've designed the first iteration of the 24v board, it's 60*32mm. Now that it's done, I don't like it for a variety of reasons. I'm going to try again, putting the low profile components on the backside of the board and the tall components on the topside of it. Maybe I'll be able to squish it down a bit more in the process. -------------------------------------------- There, that's a little better. 27.5*49.25 mm -------------------------------------------- Oh, hey, I worked on this a bit. I ditched the 12v regulator and changed it to 12v in. I also had to source different inductors, which are sadly larger, so the whole board got a couple of mm wider in the process. 26.5mm*57.2mm I think I'm gonna actually order this one, and see if it works. -------------------------------------------- I've since looked at the most recent revision and noticed a couple of flaws in it. I've repaired those flaws, and I'm gonna sleep on it again, look at it with fresh eyes tomorrow, and probably order it.
  14. I have a Tuscany PSU that is a 1.6 version and I wanted to know can this be tested with out the xbox? The 5VSTB (reds) on the 20 pin connector is measuring 3.9V. Is this normal if not connected to xbox?
  15. I have this xbox PSU TUSCANY model but with missing components ,and i wanna repair it Can anyone help me with missing components reference. thnx.
  16. Finally found the time to test the Adapter PCBs i built to use an ATX Psu to power an Xbox. They are plug and play to easily switch between the original psu and an atx-psu.Might be usable for casemods or laptop builds. The adapter is built around the following basic schematic. It properly convert the Standby voltage from 5v to 3,3v and also shifts the power_ok and power_good signals to the correct levels. Also built a small version that can be used to build an extension cord style adapter to save some more space. Just let me know if you have any questions about them
  17. When I was looking for a extra gamepad, I came across a "duke" gamepad including a whole Xbox for 10 bucks, I couldn't resist not taking it Everything works, but inside the Xbox it looks like it has a 1.0 board. I've read things about the Foxlink PSU in 1.0 units... and this one has the Foxlink The pins on the AC connector are slightly movable and the solder is cracked, but working. After taking the picture I resoldered it. Is resoldering the only fix for it to prevent melting away some day? Second thing is the fan on the GPU heatsink which makes noise the first minute it's tuned on. The same noise PC fans make when they are worn. But with a PC fan I can remove the label to reveal the bearing and put a drop of oil in it, letting it run quietly again for a couple more years. But removing the label on this GPU fan doesn't reveal the bearing. Is this fan repairable in a different way?
  18. Dears My xbox 1.6 is working intermittently. Checking the PSU, it was identified that where it should present 5v, I find approximately 1v. In addition, there is noise in the low voltage sector. In visual analysis, there are no components with deformations. However, this behavior is intermittent and, at the moment I write to you, it is working normally. Any tips on how to fix?
  19. Hi, Long story short i brought a v1.1 Board and PSU- TSOP with x2_5035 BIOS i was told from the seller, Then brought a Stock faulty xbox (Trace rot), installed new board and PSU into the faulty xbox, Kept he stock HDD and DVD Drive from the faulty Xbox...... Anyway powers up (No Flubber) say's EXECUTER2 CONFIG LIVE LOADING..... and stays on that screen, Eject button FRAG's Is it looking for somthing from the HDD? I did try Hexen and various other Installer DVD's that work on my other consoles. Faulty DVD drive? Im a total TSOP noob and would appreciate some advice please, Theres a video i upped to my Dropbox so you can see what im talking about. Thanks all. https://www.dropbox.com/s/d4t4sh6u1k9zvp0/PXL_20221128_181143241.mp4?dl=0
  20. I'm working on a mini Xbox and I'm going to be using a picoPSU for power. I've already read up on the 5v amperage issues and I bought one that should work fine. I've wired up all the ground, 12v, 5v, and 3.3v wires, and connected the Xbox's 3VSB, PowOK, and PowOn all to 3.3v. However, when I enable the ATX power supply and press the power button on the Xbox, I get green power LEDs for a couple seconds, then they blink green and red, and the console never powers on. Need a little guidance on what I should be changing in my setup.
  21. It would appear that the power supply I have in my "project" xbox is faulty. Tested with another psu from my other xbox, and it works, so definetly the supply. Anyone got one they would be willing to part with at a reasonable cost? In Australia preferably (220v) Cheers
  22. I have a 1.0 model xbox with a faulty 3rd party PSU installed by a previous owner, I also have a 1.4 with a bad video out port that I use as a parts console. I was wondering if there is anywhere I could buy a 1.4 PSU to 1.0 PSU adapter so I can swap the 1.4 PSU in, or if there is a pinout diagram so I can do the pin swap myself. Thanks
  23. Hey guys, I've got a 1.2 that I spent the weekend revitalizing with all new fresh capacitors and upgrading the RAM to 128mb. Everything went well. I had Xblast reading all 128mb, and everything was working a treat. That is until I went to pull it apart for final disassembly to clean the case and everything up before putting all back together for the last time. I first removed the SATA/IDE adapter from the HDD, leaving the molex connector in place and holding it by the cables and moved the HDD tray out of the way. It was then, that I somehow managed to let the SATA/IDE adapter dangle enough for it to brush the PSU right along side the big 470uF 250v capacitor without realizing it. And in my excited haste, I had not yet disconnected the power cord from the Xbox... As soon as I saw the bright flash and pop that was the SATA adapter getting completely obliterated, my heart immediately sank. The adapter, of course, is thoroughly destroyed. The logic IC and one of the voltage regulators quite literally exploded. At that point, I knew I'd be extremely lucky if it was the only casualty. On the Xbox itself, it blew the T3.15A on the PSU. I had some spare 3 amp glass slow-blow fuses, so I rigged one up until I get the proper cylindrical fuse to replace it later this week. Surprisingly enough, the PSU still works fine, albeit with a slight discolored battle scar on side of the big capacitor... However the motherboard is a different story. It now 3 boot/FRAGs both with or without the X2.3b lite I've had installed for years present. Thinking I had fried it, not feeling too optimistic about fixing it, I harvested the newly installed RAM, and original RAM but subsequently reinstalled the original, after changing my mind on giving up so quickly. Anyway, I've tried all the troubleshooting methods I could with what tools I have at my disposal, which is not much. All the PSU voltages are good. I've swapped PSUs with another, just in case. One observation I made is that the MCPX X3 gets really hot very quickly, so I'm sort of thinking it's shorted and therefore also toast, and that's what's causing it to FRAG. In any case, I figured, maybe I'd share my story for your entertainment, and maybe even see if any of you had any suggestions on what else I might try to test before I go on the hunt for a replacement board and continue scavenging useful parts from this one.
  24. Greetings to all, I have an xbox classic 1.0 that they gave me. As soon as I tried to turn it on the initial boot appeared, but then I heard a noise like something sizzling coming from the power supply. I open the xbox and I noticed some screws springs on the power supply which probably caused a short circuit. Now the console does not turn on anymore. If I try to turn it on, the fan turns half a turn and turns off. In stand by I have 3.25 volts on the purple cable while the transformer on the secondary between the red and black cable gives me 0 volts. What could I check. Thank you

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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